Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 156. page

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>>1169334
Some other pictures. I took the controller apart so it's easier to clean.

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>>1169335

>>1169334
>What's a good way to get rid of these so it's all smooth and shiny again?

playing it would wear out the scratches

those scratches shouldn't bother anyone

>>1169115

In IT we call this layer 1 layer 2 layer 3 etc.

There is actually a pretty detailed general troubleshooting guide for absolutely anything using logic, I'll stop back and see if I can find it.

While hardware is considered layer1/2, power should always be the first thing you check.

>>1169122
Yeap it should be the first one, but almost all cases it works and cause device had some shock damage, obvious fail points include cheap china components and the bulb.

What bugs me is why the heck voltage turned upside down in those two batteries after it fell, cause i know it worked before that. I had never heard of seen such thing happen before.

>Be responsible for buying military aircraft nose cones
> Have 5 ready for attaching to first aircraft off the line
> Try all 5 nose cones, none of them fit
> "Fettle" one of 5 nosecones to fit and complain to me they are the wrong shape
> Send two back to the factory for testing
>2nd aircraft, try 2 nosecones, neither fit
>File nosecone to fit complain to me
Nosecones are very precise equipment to allow Radar signatures through - should not be filed or fettled.
>Supplier returns 2 saying no issues and continues deliveries
> Next 4 aircraft have issues, production manager on phone screaming at me
> Be me, phonecall for 5th time, ask if they have checked the aircraft
>Dont be fucking stupid.wav
>Front fuselage assembly building...we have delivered the first 6 aircraft with out of tolerance hinge brackets for the nose radome

>>1168849
>no windows

i'm guessing this is in an attic or something. i would install a skylight.

>>1168849
>suprise
How are you gonna muffle the noises of your activities?

>17 year old girl

Make the whole floor a giant mattress and leave a few boxes of condoms.

>>1168257
just make a literal box out of plywood, you need some plywood, some glue and some nails, and a hammer, and a saw

>no diy experience

actually, fuck that, just take a fucking plastic box from somewhere, tape a towel inside, tape the target paper on the opening, done

>ricochet

then just dont fucking aim outside the paper

>>1168257
Cardboard box.
Dowel.
Towel.

Open the box so you have a hole to shoot into, install the dowel at the top and drape a towel on it.
If you left enough lip around the hole you cut you can mount a target around it firmly.
Congrats, you made something that can withstand even plastic practice rounds fired from an actual gun.

>>1168271
I've seen larger setups that use newspaper hanging on dowels (a lot of them) that stop handgun rounds.

>>1166948
The screw holes are not for making an undersized shaft fit. They are for securing the shaft inside the block so it does not spin. The way I have seen it done is they either drill a hole or mill a flat spot on the shaft for the screw to press against.

What you need to do is either get a larger diameter shaft or put an adapter bushing on your existing shaft.

>>1166950
Correct, I know if i were to just tighten those screws it would cause issues. I just cant find where i can get the adapter, and I dont have access to a machine to make them.

>>1166948
get some 1/16" shim stock and wrap it around the shaft

>>1165362
I just looked the brand up, and apparently, there is a demand for these canteens in Japan for some reason.

I'd probably use some dish soap and an old toothbrush or sponge to clean the outside, Let it soak in some soapy water for a bit. Then, see if you can remove the cap and the latch mechanism. Use some cider vinegar to get any rust off,. Let rusty parts soak for roughly an hour, and then remove the rest with either sand paper or a wire brush. Do not soak it overnight, because sometimes it makes it worse. You could probably replace the rubber with a new silicone o-ring.

I'm not sure how you'd properly clean out the inside or how you'd get that dent out.. Maybe a brush and some disinfectant?

>>1165362
That's where my old piss bottle went.

>>1165362
Soap and water.

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>>1161781
Here's another pic to give a general idea of what I'm looking to do

Looking to do something similar so bumping for OP. Any other tools besides hammer and chisel?

>>1161813
woodcutting knives exist but they're pretty slow and take a lot of effort

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The back side of the board with the battery.

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The front of the board.

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And theres the rest of the shell with the button pads.

sit in the corner
get a baseball bat
wait
and smack them out of the fucking air

use superman as bait.

>>1170074
The bats chose you, embrace them

I work at Walmart as a vendor, I see grill contractors all the time and they build them pretty fast. The grills are pretty basic but there are quite a few moving parts Good luck OP

>>1169117
8 dollars to drive to one place and build a fucking grill?

Jesus what a shitty job. I make 15 in the hour it takes you to get there and build it. Just pray your locations are always close by. Think about it, if you have to drive for more than 45 minutes, takes 30 minutes to build it, 45 minutes home, you just made 4 dollars an hour.

If you drive 2 hours, takes 30 mins, then 2 hrs home, you just made Chinese children wages.

Don't get KEKED, find a better job.

>>1169273
>If you drive 2 hours
where do you live that the nearest home depot is 2 hours away?

>>1168981
Sonotubes.

Cut in half lengthways, fit around pillar, glue back together. Paint, wallpaper, etc. You may want to fill them with something so they are more solid.

I'd start looking for Cylindrical post wraps in the size you need. Might be a custom order type of thing.

The sonos/concrete forming tubes might be the cheapest solution here.

>>1168981
>I've been wanting to transform into a nice place to dance
Son I am disappoint

>i want to do X but have absolutely no fucking clue about it!

>>1168647
>i'm on a shitty cartoon spam board with 0 fucking input!

Seriously anon. Blowjob a shotgun.

>>1168638
It's basically 1:1 high frequency transformer with separate windings.
So in theory make two coils on top of each other, Source one switched at sufficiently high frequency by commonly aviable driver. Receiver end fitted with rectifier and filtering caps, maybe regulator.
It will also produce massive EM noise, so fun guaranteed.

>>1170708
a motor with no pulley
one benchtop arbor with 2 wheels & replaceable belts
benchtop arbor buffing wheel
benchtop arbor with abrasive wheel and cutting disc and water spray

>>1170709
This part I've seen before. Cutting wheel is for cutting, other is for shaping stones. Uses water obviously. We wound stick flat rocks to stick with wax on end to hold during shaping.

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side view of the shifter

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here you can the the brake lever with the shifter axle protruding through the shifter mount.

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and here are are all the relevant parts.
2 is the axle
3 is a shifter mount but I will need to either build a new one or somehow attach a cable stop to the existing one.

It might be better to leave it in whatever condition it is in now, from a historical artefact point of view, but if you are keen on extending its life, then...
Find a paint colour that closely matches the existing.
Strip off current paint with paint stripper and then a wire wheel to remove rust.
Apply primer, let it dry, and then apply 3-4 coats of finish.
If you really want a tough finish, you could then spray that with one of the 2K in a can clearcoat paints, such as http://www.eastwood.com/paints/2k-aero-spray-paints.html
If you are near a powder coating place, you could also try that, or look for 2-component marine paints if you have any boating stores around you.

>>1170355
Mineral spirits and a plastic wire sanding sponge should work. I stripped my motorcycle exhaust headers of old paint and corrosion. Bonus: You won't get all light headed.

>>1170355
>google suggests meme oil
Figures.

Looks like it would need a full paint strip and recoat, new leather, and new or fully disassembled and polished hinges and catches, assuming they haven't been oiled. If you're not willing to transform the work into something that no longer has your honourable great uncle's scratches and coffee stains, I suspect you'll just want to give it a little oil and use it to store things inside. But if you do decide to restore it completely, it should make a particularly nice, sturdy toolbox.

The 50% route, to strip the rust, maybe replace the handle, but leave the scratched paint bare or clear-coated, and go right the way through the latch and hinge mechanisms with a wire brush, is the most appealing route and will probably get you the best of both worlds. I might even leave the surface rust and just clean off the bits on and inside the latches and hinges such that it's perfectly functional.

I'd personally look at removing the rust with a chemical method as opposed to abrasion. Leave it in the solution for 5x the time and you won't have a single spot of red oxide left. I'm no expert on rust removing formulae, but look for one that won't harm the paint if you want to keep it.