Ideas for small project

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The back side of the board with the battery.

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The front of the board.

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And theres the rest of the shell with the button pads.

>>1170649
That's the battery? Looks like a piece of cake. I don't suppose you have a multimeter lying around? If so, check the battery voltage. A good battery will have a voltage anywhere between 4.2V and 3.2V, maybe 3V if your charging controller swings that way. Seeing how the battery hasn't exploded, my guess is that it's just discharged to the point where the primitive voltage-controlled charging circuitry can't charge it back up again. If the battery is less than 3.2V then this is most likely what has happened, but if it is in the range for a healthy battery I'd start looking for scorch marks on the PCB/chips, or even the charge circuitry on the lipo battery itself.

Google "recharge a dead lipo" and you'll find plenty of ways to get your battery back, but in a nutshell what you'll want to do is charge your battery up to ~3.2V at a constant and low current (probably equal to some constant multiplied by the capacity of your battery). After the battery is up to this voltage you can put it in a regular battery charger or probably just charge it through the USB.

Good luck!

>>1170648
>I could try finding another battery or changing the entire board, all ideas are welcome.
Almost definitely just do this. It's not like you can use the board for anything without power anyway.

Peel the battery off. It'll almost definitely say what its voltage and max safe amperage are (the actual mAh doesn't really matter, it's just the 'capacity' of the battery) and if you can get another battery, just jam that shit in on it.

If you're lucky, it'll be 5v and you can throw a USB line on that bitch and just use it as a wired wireless controller, like XBox 360s do.

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>>1170667
Damn, that helps a lot.
(Pic related its the controller's manual and i guess thats the voltage (?))
As you said i think it died because of being discharged and the circuitry cant charge it up again.
Anyway i dont have a balance charger rn so i dont think i can charge it at a certain voltage.
Guess i will buy another battery with the same voltage and capacity on Ebay and then wire it to the board, not a bad solution desu.

>>1170684
That's the voltage and current of the USB input, not the lipo (lithium polymer) cell. If you do decide to replace the battery (no more than $10 from dubious sellers across the pacific) then just be sure it can handle being charged at 2.5W, or 0.9A. This is somewhat of an overestimation, so if you can't find one with this rating then you can go a few times lower. All individual lipo cells have the same voltage so you can probably trust my numbers above.

Theoretically you might be able to charge the cell with a voltage source (like a 9V battery or USB cord) and a high-value current-limiting resistor (>100Ω by my estimations), but I'd advise asking >>>/diy/ohm/ for that one. There are some simple 1-2 transistor constant-current power supplies you could attempt to make if you're the kind if person who has that sort of stuff lying about.

>>1170648
Do what we do for car batteries that are abused. Take a battery that's supposed to have the same voltage, ability to handle, and if you can same chemistry, then short them in series.

So battery 1 negative to battery 2 positive, battery 2 negative to battery 1 positive. I've revived over 2 dozen 12volt lead acid batteries like this. Albeit a car battery can take much more abuse. Monitor the batteries closely, they'll overheat, and when they do disconnect them. They will explode.

Or you can go the pussy route and buy a new battery for like $10 and solder it in.

>>1170684
It's more than likely a 3.7V lipo. You can buy them in any shape or capacity, so when you buy one, make sure that it's the same shape so that it'll fit inside the controller. Reputable sellers of all things lipo will tell you their dimensions and sometimes their weight.

But yeah, see what you can about reviving the old battery first.

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>>1170790
>short a lipo