Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 153. page

Fein and Festool make great tools. We use them in our machine factory and they last for ages if you maintain them properly.

>>1171177
do not fall for brand loyalty meme, different tools are completely different with different brands some are good some are not good, pick the tool, not the name

>>1171182
Sure for a commercial environment they can be a good option. But for the average Joe their prices border on ridiculous.

>>1171194
True. I'd also encourage OP to not entirely dismiss Harbor Freight tools. Some of their stuff may actually be better than Ryobi at that price point. Also buy tools as you need them, not a Big Box store shopping spree. Maybe tell us what work you want to do and we could recommend specific brands.

prolly easy done senpai

just replacce where the output is thats going to an LED with one of them USB car charger circuits

>>1170803
this would actually be a pretty cool project OP.

>>1170806
I'm dumb and don't quite understand what you mean

>>1170266
That is a lot of power. What is your budget? You are probably going to have to drop several hundred dollars at least. I know they used to make table saws with flex drive shafts but those were only rated at about 1 HP.

>>1170269
Idk my budget is what ever is cheapest..

this website I found awhile back ago.
http://mud-skipper.com/index.php/twisters.html
the curve is a little more then what is on this, but the only way I can think they made this, is there is a flex shaft inside..

File: 7884-3797107[1].jpg (5KB, 300x225px) Image search: [Google]

5KB, 300x225px

>>1170266
>>1170269
Oh, hey, another thing that was common in power tools back in the day was the jackshaft. Why can't you use one of those? Maybe with a couple of universal joints on the ends in case the two ends don't line up perfectly.

>>1170228
That one looks pretty good, build that.

>>1170228
Cardboat.

Why tho

>>1170228
google is your friend

>>1169992
1. decide bed size
2. decide normal or loft or murphy

metal is not squeaky as long as everything is properly braced and tightened and copper greased

wood is arguably a better material

>>1170002
I wanted to use wood but was told that itll take up more space, which material wise makes sense. I haven't got that much experience with wood so Im not sure how thick the legs would be to support the weight of two adults. What would you say is good?
Any material suggestions? Dont want to spend too much but dont want to go cheap mdf, especially since Im going to be working with it.

Im probably going to go with a loft. I need the extra storage space for all my ongoing projects.

Size wise, I guess Ill go with a "single double" bed. Should give me a meter to work with.

Ive done some wood working, so not a complete novice, but I havent yet gotten a hang of best materials/joints. Will just using wood screws be good enough or should I start practicing my joinery skills?

>>1170043
For bed building you don't use mdf. Any timber posts should do, pine is entry level tier and is probably what you should use. Plywood is also good for beams and surfacing. For size go for 75 mm rectangle or above.

To make a loft just add bracing to the structure to rigidify it, i.e. diagonal pieces.

Joints, mortise and tenon joints are enough if you want to do some woodworking, but screws are enough.

>>1168624
pro tier: disassemble and soak in citric acid and wire brush everything and put it back

pleb tier: spray wd-40 all over it

It's time to replace that chain. They're like $10 and you need a $2 and five minutes. The other rust is cosmetic, but a chain that rusty is going to slow you down and come off the gears all the time.

>>1168627
Enlightened tier:

disassemble, empty 30 cans of wd40 into a tub to get about 15 litres and soak for 2 weeks.

Reassemble and pour remaining wd40 into the hollow sections of the bike frame for lubrication.

File: charger circuit.png (32KB, 1251x835px) Image search: [Google]

32KB, 1251x835px

>>1168305
Pic related is the circuit I had in mind to connect the chargers to the cells. Basically, when 5VDC is applied to the relay coils, the relays flip and the batteries are each connected to a single charger circuit. When +5VDC is removed, the relays go back to their normally closed position which brings them all back to a series configuration. I’m planning on using one of the good 2A USB chargers to provide 5 volts, but after the current used to activate the coils, I’m down to less than 500mA for each charging circuit. This isn’t ideal, but it is enough for this project. I looked up the datasheet for the IC used in the charging circuits, and there is a program resistor on each board that I can change to tailor the output charging current to around 500mA. I understand that charging an 18650 a little slower tends to be better for the cell anyway.

Sorry for rambling. I guess what I’m looking for here is advice on the whole setup. Does it seem reasonable to use relays to switch the batteries in and out of the charging configuration? Is there an easy way to balance the voltage between cells? Should I even worry about balancing the voltage between cells, or is it not going to make much of a difference anyway? Since the batteries are in series, I can’t really fuse each one of them. Is there a need to fuse the series output, or do cells blow up in series configurations like this anyway? Should I use a thermistor and circuit interrupter instead of a fuse? I’m building a couple of these for a demo of another project, so they will be handled by laypeople who don’t know shit, and I just want to make sure that these aren’t going to blow up in their hands, no matter how they treat them. Expected life of one of these circuits is going to be about 1 year. Thanks guys!

File: sku_330150_1[1].jpg (63KB, 700x700px) Image search: [Google]

63KB, 700x700px

buy pic related
wire your batteries in series in your project
bring out a tap at each +/- junction and at the + and - of the pack.
connect wires to a plug that matches the white connector on the end of pic related
connect the + and - of the pack to the red and black jacks on the end of pic related
this will allow you to balance charge the four cells while they remain series connected

The iMax B6 is a great charger for many other types of batteries too.

>>1168410
Thanks. The price is definitely right, but I worry about sending one of these with each of the demos and then writing *very simplified* instructions on how to charge the batteries. Again, these are going to primarily buisness men who probably have trouble charging their own cell phones. I could probably replicate the logic in one of these chargers and put it on an arduino nano buried in there with the batteries, but I was hoping to not have to include a microcontroller.

What are the risks if I don't have a battery management system on these batteries? Are they actually going to blow up? They will have to dump a significant amount of current at one time (on the order of a couple of amps) but will only be on for 20 seconds at a time and will have a rest period in between on cycles. I'm not too worried about when they are plugged in and charging because they will only be charging with 500mA, and the charger will stop when the battery is full. I guess I'm really just worried about some idiot holding down a button for 5 minutes and a battery heats up enough to explode. If I can make a totally passive circuit with a few thermistors that will disable the pushbuttons when the batteries are too hot, that should be enough.

How do they do it with e cigarettes?

>>1167881
you don't have a hacksaw or pair of heavy snips? those things are flimsy as hell.

>>1167881
its a mag lock - but, as >>1167883 noted, Fort fucking Knox be elsewhere. Borrow a pair of pliers, stick a screwdriver in and twist, or use your teeth.

Use a pair of lineman plyers to cut through the shackle, its no stronger than a thick piece of wire.

>>1167028

cool.

>>1167029
Who makes the best Grinding wheels / wire wheels No opinion?

sweet dude.

>>1165266
/g/ would probably be a better place for this, no?

File: ir seq1.jpg (201KB, 1632x1224px) Image search: [Google]

201KB, 1632x1224px

>>1165683
agreed

I'd like to see some uC projects. It was /diy/ that inspired me to get one in the first place.

The only kind of thread we ever get is "whadda I do wit de Ardy" and "give me idea for Raspy proj pls" though.

File: 20170503_180531.jpg (635KB, 2048x1350px) Image search: [Google]

635KB, 2048x1350px

If it helps, "BAOHING CSA SPT-2 LL112007-1 VW-1 105C 2X18AWG" is printed on the cable jacket. Not entirely sure what all of that means myself though.

>>1171820
>the only thing wrong with it is the power supply's broken off.

Elaborate, I dont understand especially since you are alluding to fixing it with what looks like a perfectly fine connector on the end of a cable

>>1171820
Just solder it.

>>1171818

All LEDs can be pulsed, at least up until the point that parasitics keep them powered even during the off periods. That doesn't usually happen until well above your 40kHz requirement. For reference, the dirt-cheap IR LEDs in remote controls are modulated at 38kHz to help provide immunity to ambient IR noise.

I'm not entirely clear, however...are you looking for an LED with an integrated driver (possibly with addressing) that will work for what you're trying to do, or do you just want them bare? If the former, good luck with that. If the latter, just grab any LED with the right power specs.

>>1171850
I'm trying to blink an LED with a specific pattern. I want to upload code into an Arduino that will tell when to turn the LED on or off. For the LEDs that I posted in the image, I needed a driver for that since I could not just use a function generator to turn on or off the current since it is far too low.

In this project, I wanted to know if there was a multicolor LED where i could also address each color of the LED such that they all blink with unique patterns that go up to the 40kHz frequency.

I don't think I can just do this with a function generator right?

>>1171861
>driver
that's just a mosfet used to switch the LED from its supply to ground.

>i could also address each color of the LED such that they all blink with unique patterns that go up to the 40kHz frequency.

are you talking about each one blinking at a different frequency ranging from 10-40khz or up to 40Khz for the whole array?

>>1171486
everyday without smoke, give yourself $5

Get a couple of bags of peanuts, have a nibble when you start getting cranky
As much as they're reviled, I also used a vape to get over the worst of it

Started vaping and havent smoked a cig for a year now - now i have a new problem though. It was quite easy to go over to vaping, eventually cigarette smoke smelled disgusting to me when someone was smoking next to me. I used to smoke for 4 years and one pack per 3 days...

>>1171479
Yeah, that is not going to go horribly wrong. Use the right tool for the job. Return the thing and get one that attaches to the desk or at the very least, has a wider base.

File: Z1t8JtpcpEx_.jpg (47KB, 450x357px) Image search: [Google]

47KB, 450x357px

>>1171479
how about something like this holding the mount down to the table?

maybe not in yellow though

>>1171484
This, or use Elmer's glue to glue the base down.

>>1171456
That would one hell of a nigger rig for that many fans.

yeah just put current limiting resistors in front of them and you'll be fine. those mofos are resilient as fuck

>>1171465
Holy shit no.

Just wire them up in pairs(series) and connect all the pairs into a parralel connection - should be skookum enough (9.5v per fan)