Woodworking General

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>>1161781
Here's another pic to give a general idea of what I'm looking to do

Looking to do something similar so bumping for OP. Any other tools besides hammer and chisel?

>>1161813
woodcutting knives exist but they're pretty slow and take a lot of effort

Anyone have any charts or resources on the physical strengths of different woods? I'm looking to build some things that require the actual physics of the wood to be structurally sound more than pretty.

>>1161781
>>1161783

The doors look like they're just weird shaped panels at the tops of the arches. Frame and panels are possibly just a facade over square glass seated normally in the door as you would a large plywood panel. If you want custom shaped glass it will be money unless you can find a prefab supplier.

Moldings can be cut down roughly with a special plane blade and then carved if you want to try that. Otherwise gouges work better than chisels for carving, and you could use a chip carving knife for roughing out. But you should be able to use a normal chisel if you're not able to get other things. Bear in mind it will be hard to get nice curves though.

>>1161997

This table here is really handy:
http://www.woodworkweb.com/woodwork-topics/wood/146-wood-strengths.html

I'm a bowyer and have calculated out a bunch of figures specific for that based on this data, so a lot of it should be applicable for any strength application as well.

Off the top of my head, beech and ash are really great for both strength and stability and are usually less expensive compared to other things. Hard maple/sugar maple is FANTASTIC but it's a bear to work, really pretty, strong, and doesn't show dents or surface damage easily. White oak is strong and is naturally waterproof, which is nice for outdoor things. Hickory is really strong but more prone to warping and bad in humidity, plus it dulls the hell out of blades.

>>1161997
I was planning to make it with thick crossbars and fit each pane individually in case one breaks or some shit. I was going to try to steam bend the top section to get that nice curve but I'm not entirely certain it's possible. Have you ever done anything like that or do I have to carve it?

>>1162020
So would you use/recommend red cherry for project something like this? I want to carve a floral patter and maybe some lettering into the space between the curve on the top frame and the rest of the shelves but I'm not certain it's possible unless you're a god-tier woodworker. Does red cherry work for that or would something like white maple be better?

How do you find local lumber? google maps just brings up cabinet makers nearby and 2 bulk contractors. Using woodfinder it says the closest lumber yard is 120m away

>>1162041

Cherry is a good wood for carving, it's medium hardness and has an even grain. I haven't done any "artistic" carving on it, just general shaping and such (quite easy), but there's a ton of people like it for detailed carving if you search for images. Soft maple isn't bad either but more splintery. Maple is awesome for woodburning, if you'd considered doing any details that way.

>>1162050
I'm going for a carve interior since I have too much time on my hands and I'm not a huge fan of how woodburning looks

bumping for interest

>>1162048
Please assist. Only lumber i can find is home despot and low-es

>>1162569

Look for businesses that sell machinery like saws and such, often they'll carry some wood as well. For hardwood, go to craigslist, search for "lumber" "boards" "timber" etc. Usually you'll find somebody at least semi-local on there selling lumber. It's often rough sawn lumber that will need some prep work, but you can usually find some good deals that way.

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>>1161997

>>1162633
>American cherry is the weakest wood on the chart
I guess Red oak might be a better choice. Will a weaker wood be more likely to crack while I'm working it?

>>1161997
wood is strong in general houses are built out of soft radiata pine.

im sorry to be the one to tell you this but hardwoods and beauty go together. a hardwood isnt a description of its strength, but of the grain structure. softwood has open grains, hardwood has closed grains. the difference is more to do with if it grows flowers or pinecones. hardwoods dont expand, go floppy or rot with a bit of weathering like untreated pine will.

>>1162798
no but a shitty piece of lumber will.
timber cracking isnt really a problem. unless it hasnt been dried properly. that's pine anyway judging by the shitty stain job. maybe some laminate panelling, im not sure with that resolution.

remember you build the frame first, you build wood from the inside out, not from the outside in. common mistake. its like how people try to make the surface of a table a structural element instead of building a solid frame first.

>>1162020
Interesting chart. Hickory performed better than i thought on their tests.

I'm just at a point now with wood hobby that i'm confident enough to start using nicer wood for projects without worrying too much about the possibility of screwups ruining expensive material.

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Could I make pic related by hand or does it need a lathe

>>1162020
Hmm.

What would you use as a bench top? This chart is making me rethink.


I didn't want something too hard so it wouldn't crack with abuse, but too soft will need resurfaced seemingly weekly.

>>1162984
You can make anything by hand, just getting the same level of quality will take for fucking ever.

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I'm looking to get a bench plane for flattening shit, looking for recommendations or any bullet points for buying. I don't really see myself buying a collection of them for use variety anytime soon, so I assume I want some sort of jack plane as apparently those are the most versatile.

Beyond that I got no idea.

>>1162996
I guess I should also add that I want to keep cost low. I've seen stuff on amazon for 50-60 bucks, no idea what level of quality those are but that seems like my wheelhouse of pricepoints.

>>1163000
I don't know how good the chinesium shit on Amazon is.

But here are the the best planes you could buy.
https://www.lie-nielsen.com/nodes/4063/handplanes

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Making French Provincial stuff... a top I'm working on. Red oak, ~60" x 30"

>>1163182

Looking good...

>>1163184
Finishing is proving far more difficult than actually building it. I've had to sand it down and start over twice. Third time was a charm. This is why you don't try new products on a major project...

Has anyone had experience with indoor woodworking? Moving into an apartment soon

>>1163182
What did you use to make that curved surface?

>>1162984
Lathe only

>>1163190
can't say I've had alot, but I also lack a shop space. what I can say is that most woodworking can be done indoors, with hand tools, and make next to no mess. hand planes are definitely better indoors because there is next to no dust created, and using japanese pull saws creates much less debris than your average push saw. sanding will always create dust, but most of that can supposedly be replaced with scrapers. Obviously you'll be working alot slower but I think you'll have a better understanding and controll on your craft that you can bring with you, when you move back to power tools.

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>tfw no time nor money nor enough skill to build this kind of place

why live

>>1163334
Made a template, traced it, cut it with a jig saw, then did a shit ton of sanding to get it smoothly curved. Followed that up with a 1/4" round over router bit. Then another shit ton of sanding... followed by more sanding.

>>1162569
http://www.woodfinder.com/

>>1163388
If you when for a simpler ceiling and made it smaller you might be able to do something like this in your lifetime. My plan is to make this after I retire so I have shitloads of time.

>>1163393
How long did that take you
>Also post pics of finished product

>>1163411
Took about 20 minutes to lay it out, maybe 10 minutes to cut it with a jig saw. Then about 2 hours of sanding and shaping, removing all of the roughness in the curves from the shitty jigsaw blade. I also pulled out the straight bit on the router and used the smooth shank sort of like a guide bearing, and used it sort of like a flush trim bit to make the cut perfectly vertical or square, since the jigsaw blade bends a little as you cut curves. Once I got it square to the top and sanded out smooth, I ran the 1/4" round over around the whole top, then did another 2 hours or so of final sanding on the fresh router cuts and on the top to prep it for finish. But since I fucked up on the finishing the first 2 times, I had to resand the whole thing down to bare wood twice. In all, I probably have about 5 hours into it, not including the glue up of the top and the planing everything flat, which was minimal.

Working on the last few coats of finish now. I'll post pics when I'm done. The stain had a few minor spots where it blotched a bit, but good enough that I'll live with it. It's going to be a bit of a rustic looking piece, so it won't really take away from the overall look. Could have been better, but whatever.

>>1163423
Sounds pretty awesome. How much did the whole project cost?

>>1163406
I see you didn't read
>Using woodfinder it says the closest lumber yard is 120m away

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>>1163423
Well, here it is with 3 coats. Going to do 2 more, the final one will be satin. Just building with the gloss. Tough to see much detail with a shitty phone camera and bad shop lighting.

>>1163425
The wood for the top was about $90. It's actually going on an existing french provincial dresser that we refinished. The top was cut to match the front profile, and the back side that is cut straight will overhang about 14" and be supported by black iron hardware that matches the drawer pulls. It'll be a kitchen island. We refinish and repurpose antique furniture and flip it at a local high end flea market/store. Rich people in the area will pay ridiculous prices for some stuff... The whole project, we have about $300 into it, for the dresser, the top, 2 chairs and all of the finishes. We can flip it for about $1200.

>>1163436
>wood working done exactly right

What kind of router would you use to make something like >>1162984

>>1163436
>>1163438
Also orbital sander or hand sander?

>>1163438
Any decent router with a 1/2" collet, since some of those profiles are probably too much for a smaller 1/4" router. Mainly the one around the top. DeWalt makes some good routers.

>>1163440
Both. Orbital to do the bulk of the work, then to finish it off, I go back over it with my final grit of paper with a sanding block and sand it with the grain to remove any swirls or weird spots that the orbital left behind.

>>1163442
>>1163443
Thanks anon

>>1162834
>wood is strong in general houses are built out of soft radiata pine.

Maybe in Commiefornia. Here houses are build out of douglas fir.

>>1162984

Only the center post needs a lathe for that.

>>1163473
Yeah that's what I was thinking. I was going to cut the legs with a band saw and then sand them into shape and cut the top with a jigsaw then use a router around the edges.

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What kind of a shop would I need to make a shelf like in the OP pic?

>>1163656
>need
People have been making much nicer-looking shelves with hand tools for centuries. If you had the time and skill you could do it with a few garage sale tools. Question is what do you already have

>>1163680
Exactly. All better tools/power tools do is speed up the work. With enough patience and some skill, you can make anything with cheap hand tools. It's only about how hard you want to work, and how much time you want to devote to it.

so I have a couple questions, and this seems like the place.

1- I was watching a video on yosegi veneers and I'm wondering if it's a viable technique for non geometric forms. I'm mostly talking about organic forms like floral images and shapes. I know I'd have to get the peices to match up tight but I haven't seen anyone use that technique for anything but these later geometry.

2- I would like to do some complex inlays in the future and wanted to use the above method. since I can't find wood in certain colors (mostly blue), I was considering filling those sections with resin. I'm curious if it will interfere with sawing the thin veneers from the finished peices. mostly just rolling the idea around for now, but feel free to point out how stupid it might be.

I know most inlays are one offs, directly worked into a surface, but I like the idea of repeatable inlay veneers.

>>1163656
more like, how mutch time and money you want to invest

>>1163781
>1- I was watching a video on yosegi veneers and I'm wondering if it's a viable technique for non geometric forms. I'm mostly talking about organic forms like floral images and shapes. I know I'd have to get the peices to match up tight but I haven't seen anyone use that technique for anything but these later geometry.

You could make geometric flowers...

In all seriousness I don't see why not but it'll take lots of time

>2- I would like to do some complex inlays in the future and wanted to use the above method. since I can't find wood in certain colors (mostly blue), I was considering filling those sections with resin. I'm curious if it will interfere with sawing the thin veneers from the finished peices. mostly just rolling the idea around for now, but feel free to point out how stupid it might be.

It's a good thing you don't have a social life because this is going to take a fucking eon. That being said using resin should work but standard warning about using it do apply

>>1164048
> It's a good thing you don't have a social life because this is going to take a fucking eon.

that's why I want to try this method. spend a bunch of time on a peice that will produce more than one copy of the inlay by taking veneers of it. would potentially save time in the long run.

>>1164202
The guy you saw there was an absolute master, there's no way you're going to get it right the first few times you try, especially snice you'll be using resins witj different characteristics than wood.

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>>1163432
That's how it ended up

>>1164511
I know better than to think I'll get it right the first time. Just wondering if others had tried something similar. I still expect a trial and error period.

>>1162798
the chart shows the Janka hardness, basically how dense the wood is, not necessarily how strong it is (but approximate). Don't pay much mind to the super hard exotic woods near the bottom, if you look at the species, most domestic woods are 800-1500 and all of those are very strong compared to your average construction lumber or particle board junk.

>>1162991

Southern yellow pine is the often recommended for work surfaces since it's really strong and affordable, or maple if you're feeling ritzy, it's stable and doesn't show wear quickly.

>>1165340
That turned out really well. What was the end cost?

>>1165688
Got the dresser for $40, top was about $80 worth of oak. Plus finish... maybe $140.

>>1163000
Buy used until you know what you want out of them. Generally the thicker the plane iron (the bit that cuts) the smoother the cut will be. 50 bucks is a decent used plane on ebay. Stay away from rusty shit. I learned the hard way starting in hand tools buying rusty planes... There's just no fixing them easy. I still have one rusty pile of shit that has yet to be restored. But literally nothing on it but the body casting is decent.. Don't get those. Get best condition you can afford.

How to get away with murdering niece

>>1165970
Don't

>>1165950
That's fucking awesome, I wish I was this good at woodworking.

>>1163781
>>1164048
>>1164511
>>1165348
I would suggest instead of doing it the way he does, use a bandsaw to cut the inlays.
Also, it's a case of machining, so you can do any shape you can figure out how to cut the pieces for, and figure out a mosaic-ish design for. also, I would suggest making it much bigger/longer than he does, the way they make chessboards. you combine the planks at several feet long, then you cut slices on a bandsaw.
I was just looking at tips on how to tune mine, and one guy said that he setup his guides and fence just right with the gullets riding on the center of the tire (too far back for most people's taste because it can damage the crown) and he can cut a 1/32nd veneer with basically not setup.
>>1162996
>>1165969
The HF smoothing plane is surprisingly decent. I heard that Windsor Design bought a factory that made fairly decent planes. The Jack Plane is shit though. Also, sheet of cheap glass (like 90% of non tempered glass is float glass, cast on a pool of molten metal so it's perfectly flat) and wet/dry sandpaper and water and a sharpie. draw on the bottom of the plane and use water to stick sandpaper to the glass and use that to flatten the bottom so it's dead smooth and flat. If it's a bad curve, you can actually bend planes back (part of why it's bad to drop them).
when you are done, buff with paste wax. Doing this will help keep you from planing in subtle curves on everything, and will reduce the friction from a rusty rough sole so it slides smooth. Then you just need to sharpen the plane, grind the chipbreaker so it's flush to the blade and right up at the edge, and enjoy.

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I'm thinking of making a chess table like pic related. I want to cut 2" square pieces of ebony and birch then glue them onto a piece of plywood then covering the surface with glass. For the trim on the side I was going to buy some home depot trim with a stain on it. Would that look like complete and absolute shit?

>>1165340
How much is that worth to buy? I imagine over $1000. In UK I can see that going for £2000. But I don't know much.

Really nice. Looks like something I can't afford.

>>1167013
Does home depot trim come in nice woods? Some local timber merchants will sell trim is nicer woods, the rails that go on walls and stuff. Have a look around your area.

>>1167043
I don't mean literally from home depot, just that kind of trim

>>1167013
If you glue the pieces to a plywood base it will almost certainly warp. Take 4 lengths of dark wood (ebony if you can get it will be fine) and 4 of light coloured wood (birch may be a little soft, I would recommend sycamore or maple) and glue them together dark/light/dark/light/dark/light/dark/light forming a striped board. Then cut 2" strips off of the board, reverse alternates and glue the strips back together to give the squares. I back the boards with oak veneer, essentially building up to about a quarter an inch of thickness one layer at a time, which combats the inclination of the backing to warp the board.

>>1167050
ebony is really fucking expensive, could I use another wood for making the plywood layer and then only have the uppermost level of the wood be ebony or would it warp

>>1167250
And since I'm fucking around with exotic materials how would I go about putting gold leaf on this thing?

>>1167050
For a project like this do you have to put the saw blade thickness into the measurements. Or maybe I measure after each cut?

This is some really low tolerance work OP is trying.

I might try this with some stained spruce (cheapest wood in UK). Practice cutting straight lines with a pull saw and tennon saw. Chessboard is a nice practice project.

>>1167549
I mean yeah but with ebony the material can be material can be paper thin if you're just using it as a veneer.

>>1167040
I'm asking $775 for it, 2 linen covered bar stools included. Maybe could get more for it, but I like to turn a profit quickly, rather than wait for weeks or months for the right person to see it and want it.

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>>1165340
Moved onto my next little project. An 8' long Ash dining table. Apparently grey wood is in these days, so grey it is. The base is a pretty simple oak design, in black. 6 chairs to match.

A little more cleaning, then the top coat and assembling top to base, and finishing the chairs. Not sure how much to ask for it. Thinking $850 for the set.

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>>1168514

The base before dye and stain. Like a lot of my pieces, it's designed to be built quickly. No mortise and tenon joinery if I can help it. Should still be PLENTY sturdy and hold up well for decades. Exposed bolts look seems to sell, so I'm not changing my ways just yet.

>>1168514
If I were you I'd either sell it piecemeal or take orders of whatever so you don't have to worry about waiting for someone to buy your shit

>>1168518
Well, I sell through putting my stuff in this high end flea market/antiques mall. I do plan to start working on commission soon, taking orders and having things on order with deposit before starting. Waiting is killing me right now. One month I sell a lot, next month it's fucking dead.

>>1168522
that's going to happen, you could probably figure out when those busy months are pretty easily. Do you keep sales data? If you do you could use it to model when the busy season is and then try to model your work around that if this is your fulltime job.

>>1167043
yeah, a fair number of woodshops do custom molding as their bread and butter. You can even DIY a surprising number of profiles with a few bits, a router screwed to the bottom of a piece of plywood and a board to clamp to it to use as a table.

>>1166474
>Also, sheet of cheap glass (like 90% of non tempered glass is float glass, cast on a pool of molten metal so it's perfectly flat) and wet/dry sandpaper and water and a sharpie. draw on the bottom of the plane and use water to stick sandpaper to the glass and use that to flatten the bottom so it's dead smooth and flat. If it's a bad curve, you can actually bend planes back (part of why it's bad to drop them).

>Glass

No, glass is not flat. If you put a straightedge on plate glass it will rock or have gaps you can find with a feeler gauge. Use a melamine-coated sheet of particle/fiberboard. Unless it's damaged, those are always perfectly flat.

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So I'm a machinist by trade and I'm looking to get into woodworking. I don't have the room for power tools bigger than a palm sander so I'm looking at only hand tools. My question is for things like the various planes I'd need, is there any reason I can't buy a cheap ass new Stanley and polish and flatten the bottom and sides to an acceptable level myself or is there more to it than that? I can also make new blades for almost nothing if needed. And when I say flatten and polish I mean I can put a mirror shine on them with a flatness of a couple tenths. My only worry is if there's any kind of precise parallelism or perpendicularity between the faces or the faces and the blade I need to consider.

>>1169530

Nah. The difference between a modern new Stanley and a triple or quadruple the price high end plane is almost entirely in the quality of the machining straight from the factory and sometimes the quality of the metal for the blade. Actual basic design of the thing is the same.

The reason the new Stanleys and similar inexpensive planes have a bad reputation is that they take some work to get in to acceptable functional condition before you can put them to use.

>>1169533
So if I just do the cleanup on the faces and give the blade a nice sharpening it'll perform more than well enough for a beginner woodworker?

>>1169534

Definitely.

Another way to go is to check craigslist and ebay for used ones. You can get old planes for pretty cheap that just need the rust removed.

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>>1161781
Here's I don't know what I'm doing the post. Basically my desk now is kind of trash and my "workbench/toolbench" is a dresser. It be too expensive to buy something like this so I'd figure I can get the wood cut for me at the hardware store and put the rest together myself. Not sure what the best way to make sure the structure of it is solid or any common pitfalls I'll need to watch for. I move every 1 to 3 years so I want to construct it in a way so that I can break it down pretty easily every few years or so. Thoughts?

>>1169771
>"workbench/toolbench" is a dresser.
I meant nightstand* Also one thing I'm considering is salvaging the desk I have right now. It's one of the sturdier Ikea models, but I inherited it missing parts so it's not exactly put together. I'm just not sure if it's worth it to try and reuse that particleboard it's made of.

www.survivorlibrary.com/?page_id=1409
www.survivorlibrary.com/?page_id=2169

Magazines about carpentry and woodworking in general. You are welcome.

>>1169530
>>1169533
>>1169534
Woodworking and metalworking are both horribly expensive hobbies/trades to get into and so usually a woodworker won't have the time, tools or ability to set up such a tool as accurate as a good machinist could. Old tools usually don't take more to fix up than rust removal, grinding and polishing (which a woodworker has anyway for tool maintenance.)

If you have the time and dosh to do both then godspeed you magnificent bastard, I hope you make some nice shit. Most of the rest of us have to either pay out the nose or have blacksmith or machinist friends to trade with.


>>1169771
>>1169775
There's plenty of workbench tutorial videos on youtube. A woodworking workbench is very different from a standard garage bench because for the most part it's got replaceable and modular components.

You have no legs on your bench to attach vises to, and only one side to so corner work is out of the question. You have no tool well for tools you need to keep at hand but out of the way (bench dogs, individual chisels, etc) or close shelving to store smaller workpieces and larger tools. It's against the wall so you'll have an awkward as fuck time trying to manipulate long pieces.

Did you even look at a woodworker's workbench? You're honestly better off just buying one (even a cheapo one) to start out because it's a monumental project to do with very little experience since it uses expensive heavy lumber and needs to not be wobbly at all. If you really have no money then getting some MDF and sawhorses will open your options up immensely since you can actually attach things like vises and drill holes in it for other purposes. Just make sure to give the MDF a waterproof coating like those premade bench tops you can buy for tool carts.

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Can anyone here explain to me how to have a box that would close in itself and retract? I'm sure this exist but i would love some help finding different designs or an explanation on how to make something like this. Pic kinda related.

>>1170127
You're absolutely right, shame on me. I didn't do my due diligence and research enough ahead of time. Largely I'm here trying to get a vague idea of what I should be looking for.

Didn't mean to give the wrong impressions; this particular bench setup is for electronics projects, not woodworking itself (I've never lived in a space large enough to really feel like I could pursue woodworking past some whittling. That said, might be able to use a family garage for the odd project like this). I've worked in an electronics lab before with some nice professional work spaces but those are insanely priced compared to something I'd like to use at whatever apartment I end up in. At least until I finally settle down. Figured /woodworking/ would be the place to ask.

Looking up some stuff right now for some styles and designs of benches. Probably also going to check out the local hardware stores tomorrow to see what they have in stock for materials, and will go from there.

>>1169530
>I don't have the room for power tools bigger than a palm sander

thats a shame because a DIY CNC router can do pretty much anything.

>>1170148
the easiest one that comes to mind would be a pneumatic spring mounted in a channel along the bottom.
another one would be a leadscrew attached to a motor mounted on one side, and a nut attatched to the other. downside is that you would need to open it with the motor as well.