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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 154. page

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Alright /diy/ residential estimator here gunna drop some cheats here for you.

Various time saving methods and hacks will be posted here, feel free to ask me any questions.

Don't ask me about code though that's too different all over the world, I have a fair amount of product knowledge and practical as well.

First off is calculating slope length of Gable Ends. Included is a list of factors and their given pitch.

Simply take the slope factor and multiply by half your truss span. You can then take that number multiplied by your ridge length for total area of one side of the roof.
27 posts and 10 images submitted.
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You'll probably want to know total gable end area after this as well.

For that I have a table. Simply find your pitch and total span, and the number where they intersect is your gable end area.

If it's an odd pitch simply multiply your truss height by half of your span.
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>>1171140
>>1171143
I'll be lurking this thread OP.
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Now that's all easy enough but lots of people struggle when it comes to a hip roof as opposed to gable end roof.

One again I am here to make your life easy.

If you want to find the length of a hip/ridge take half your roof size multiplied by the appropriate factor.

Easy as pie.

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Earlier today I was flushing my radiator and as I was attempting to remove to top hose, the plastic elbow/neck cracked clean off.
It, broke right at the middle of the bend.

Any ideas on how to repair it?

At first I thought about fiberglassing it back in place, but I know it will eventually break again due to the heat/cool cycle.

Now I'm thinking of running a piece of long hose through the broken piece, and down into the radiator.
Maybe even adding some rigidity by wrapping the cracked area with denim lightly brushed with epoxy resin.
Brushed denim remains flexible so it may be more tolerant to heat expansion.

Suggestions?

Btw if anyone cares, I've found that flushing out coolant, then filling the system back up with water and 1/2 a liter of vinegar, then running it for a normal day really helps clean out the system.
9 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1171122
The best thing you can really do, if you're willing to go to lengths like that to try to fix it, is to just go to the junkyard and pull a replacement.
Also check rockauto for prices beforehand. One time I pulled a radiator for a truck, looked it up online a few weeks later and it was $15 cheaper online. This was in CA though so junkyards can be a total ripoff.

I'm all for DIY and fixing things rather than replacing them; I have irrigation plumbing fittings on my truck water hoses and one hose that had a hole has been taped up with electrical tape for years, but crappy radiator plastic just isn't worth the time and frustration.
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If you're dead set on keeping it for either time/money reasons then you could get a hot knife attachment on a soldering iron and some zip ties. Go ahead and plastic weld that shit. Hot knife in place and feed zip ties into it to fill (in case you were wondering what I meant.)

Obviously this is a temporary fix (depending on your skill, it can be permanent) and the temperature changes might fuck with it so before driving go ahead and run the car up to temperature for thirty(30) minutes and check for leaks periodically. Let it cool back down to ambient. Fire it back up and check for leaks again. Spending 3 hours checking before driving might save you a seized engine from over heating.
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>>1171129
>go to the junkyard and pull a replacement.
this.

radiators hold pressure and the plastic will always break again.

these are usually fiberglass reinforced plastics and are very difficult/impossible to weld

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Had a flood two years ago in my raised ranch due to my town's drainage system, with water rising as high as 8 inches downstairs. Since then, have had drain tile installed, rigorously maintained my outdoor drains, and the town installed a new drainage system on my street.
Just had another flood yesterday evening. Granted, it wasn't nearly as bad (not all rooms had standing water, the ones that did only had about an inch or less). Currently have three air movers and three dehumidifiers going on full blast (one of each piece is an industrial strength rental from Home Depot).
I'm sitting here waiting another two hours before I can call my insurance company. The last time this happened, the adjuster tried his best to not cover us, until as luck would have it I received a call from the town prosecutor just as he was about to leave. Hearing that, the adjuster suddenly had a change of heart, and agreed to pay us out.
I'm dreading making this call, because I know they're going to try to pull the same shit again. I've got a lawyer I can contact in a worst-case scenario, but I don't want to get dicked around again. What do I do when this guy (probably the same guy as last time, same company) tries to deny me compensation again?
tl:dr- Tips on getting an insurance company to pay for coverage.
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1170950
Threaten to sue step 1.

Send letter by lawyer 2

Actually sue for more cause they cucks.

Profit
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>>1170950
i guess document everything ie take pictures videos if you have to or write a log about what happened etc is without saying

also threaten to sue, then talk to lawyer, then sue
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>>1170950
Google your location's state insurance commission and ask them the same questions. Then write out in big block letters there title, the persons name, and the telephone number that you speak to, leave that lay out on the table where you will sit to speak with them.

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Have any of you ever made a chainsaw motor powered bike? I was thinking about it, just to travel short distances over to friends' houses and stuff like that. What's the best design and what advantages do different ones have? I'll just wait until a good enough chainsaw shows up on craigslist. Also at what point does it become a motorcycle?
9 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1170841
Lurk more.

>>1166222
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>>1170841
>at what point does it become a motorcycle?
This seems like something you'll end up trying to argue in court if you used a motor + cycle like that on public roads regularly.
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>>1170841
>Also at what point does it become a motorcycle?
there are probably rules for this depending on the country you live in. because you didn't fucking say then we can't read you fucking mind you dumb idiot retard.
typically rules will have something to do with the size/power/speed but also there is usually something to do with exceptions for power ASSISTED bicycles which means it only goves you a boost while you are actively pedalling, if you stop pedalling the engine stops too.

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Hey /diy/
I want to make a front panel for an electronics project.
I have minimal tools. some shitty jeweler's files, and a dremel.
What material(s) are best to use? Steel is basically out of the question as is thick or particularly hard alloys of aluminum. What about plastics?
Where would I go about getting such materials? Just ebay or? What about cutting it to dimensions?
Most importantly, how do i go about cutting out shapes like squares and rectancles up to an 3" on a side, or particularly large (lets say an inch) diameter holes?
What do i do as far as applying text and labelling? How do I go about doing it?
If worse comes to worst, are there any services that will machine it for me that wont' charge a kidney?
Also, machining related shit in general.
25 posts and 7 images submitted.
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>>1170442

use a drill to make a hole for a 'nibbler' to bite out the rest of a unusual shaped hole

use small files to shape/smooth the hole
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>>1170442
I usually prefer to use 1.5-2mm aluminum plates, I use a jeweler's saw to cut holes for displays or other shapes and drills for buttons and switches.
For labeling I usually etch the plate with the toner transfer method and diluted HCl

I get the plates from aliexpress
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>>1170542
damn that sounds interesting. tell me more anon. how reliable is that toner thing anyway/ and don't you have to add colour to the text?

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Are there any Maker / Electronics vlogs that have a similar style to Casey Neistat? Ones that are actually interesting and tell a story?

All the ones I've seen are just tutorials or some bloke rambling in front a camera for 40 mins.
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>>>/fa/ggot detected
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Being a cam-whore without jerking off is a incredibly saturated market. Try masturbating in front of a camera if you want to do something lucrative.
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>>1170309
That's exactly what Jew nose does

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So I came across like 30 of these motors. Does anyone have any ideas for what I should do with them?
36 posts and 8 images submitted.
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>>1170303
I should add that they are too small to make a generator with, which is what I tried.

I also forgot to include the specs.

Type 130 Mini DC Motors for 1.5 to 6V
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>>1170303
Vibrators, you could profit on that
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>>1170303
Vibrators.

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Just noticed our upstairs bathroom AC Vent is leaking (not the one with the fan connected, just the one that leads through the metal vent grill/flapper and into the ducts.

First I'm I've noticed it.

Is this something I should try fixing myself, or should I just call an AC specialist/some sort of specialist?

What do you think is most likely the problem?

Pic semi related, but not the vent in question.
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Uh... Leaking what? And to where?
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>>1170249
If your ductwork is poorly insulated it's possible that it can condensate water and "leak" while in cooling. You could go in the attic and check if is even insulated.
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>>1170249
Like >>1171222 said, it could be an insulation issue or the ducts could be improperly sized and the airflow is off. either one of those options is a decently simple fix, just requires some labor. Wrapping ductwork does suck balls though, you'll be itchy by the end.

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Do you have any tools that you would consider to be "quality" ?

Show them off here!
43 posts and 15 images submitted.
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>>1170094
Have s-k screwdrivers and like 5k of fucking craftsman i mean stanley shit now
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/diy/ is about projects, not products.
If your pride is in your tools, you're doing it wrong
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>>1170496
>/diy/ doesn't like my brand of choice so I'm gonna whine about it

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Sup, /diy/. So im restoring an old industrial sewing machine and ive run into a problem.

The thread take-up lever (yellow) has the head snapped off on the outside of the machine, rendering it useless until i can replace/refab it. To get to the broken lever I have to disassemble more or less the entire front head of the machine. It was pretty easy going, until I got to pic related. The screw circled in red is a weird concave flathead (kind of like the ones on car key fobs), that I have been unable to unscrew. Literally every other screw in the machine so far is a normal flathead, is there any reason this one is different? And how can I remove it? Its real tight and im worried about stripping it if i keep trying with a regular screwdriver.

My main issue is that there is basically zero fucking info on this machine on the internet. Its a Chandler Chandsew #100R, and besides a lady selling one online I cant find any evidence they ever existed. No manuals, the Chandler website doesnt list it as an old model, nothing.

V frustrating.
(Sorry for rotated image, phone won't post right orientation)
24 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1169347
>kind of like the ones on car key fobs
the kind you can use a coin on ( like a quarter? )
>>
You can sometimes find bits for those fasteners on Ebay.

Measure the width of the slot precisely using a feeler gauge then hunt a match. You can grind thicker bits down.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fastener-socket-bit-for-panels-dzus-hi-torque-coin-slot-type-aircraft-tool-/232210718427

While not a Dzus fastener, the fastener slot is similar. You can also grind a small piece of tool steel to fit and turn it with visegrips. Search Ebay using "Dzus tool" for a variety of photos.

It's worth making a tool that fits well, so do not hurry and take your time.
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>>1169347
Is it being held in by set screws?
Can't tell from that angle but it looks like there are a couple of set screws further back.

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Anyone here built a railgun? Tips and stories appreciated, it doesn't have to be anything mega powerful or large
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>>1168807
https://youtu.be/NJRDclzi5Vg
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what the fuck
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>>1168895
Electric fields and magnetic fields are inseparable.
The current flowing through the projectile creates a magnetic field.
This is electromagnetics 101.
Ever made an electromagnet? Disturbed a compass with a winding? Used an electric motor?
All exploit the exact same principle; electric current causes magnetic fields which attract or repel other magnetic (or electromagnetic) fields.

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Any idea on what techniques were used to restore rust this bad on a very old axe head?

I'm very surprised the engraved details were recovered.
18 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1168454
Fastest, cheapest way: Wire wheel on a benchtop grinder. It's kind of a pain in the ass and you can damage the piece if you aren't careful.

Safest, easiest way: Evaporust. Costs quite a bit though. HF carries it. Get a 20% off coupon for someone and buy it.

Fairly easy, fairly cheap, most awesome way: electrolysis. Moderately difficult to setup but works great and won't damage the piece. Watch out for off-gassing and don't smoke around it.

Other things also work. Molasses, citric acid, etc. They can eat into the metal if you aren't careful and have varying levels of effectiveness.
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Electrolytic rust removal most likely.
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theres no way thats the same axe head

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Hey guys! I just started working at home depot and I was wondering: what do you think of the company? do you have any advice for a new employee? please share your projects and stories!
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If you are not collecting carts, try to learn as much as you can from senior employees who are actually knowledgeable and customers when you interact with them. You will learn how to upsell and make decent recommendations when customers swallow their pride and ask you for help. If a customers asks you a question don't just send them to Kristy because she sells doors, instead lead the customers to the expert and learn with them. After awhile you can answer most questions and customer and your superiors (if they aren't complete asses) will appreciate the level of service you provide.

TL;DR: product knowledge and expanding your knowledge will further your customer service skills and make you a valuable member.

I'm in customer service and I usually just lurk in /diy/ so not too much help on the actual diy side.
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>>1168053
If I try and buy spraypaint don't fucking tell me you'll go get Jose real quick and come back 20 minutes later.
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>>1168053
Really?
Is this the new approach?

Creating a thread and waiting 30 minutes to phonepost?

We still hate you and your shitty threads. Get a real job

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I know there are 3D printers who can make circuit boards, but apparently they can only make the conductive roads... you still have to put components in it (diodes, resistors, transistors, etc...).
Is there anything that can make *complete* electronic devices? i.e.: things that are theoretically ready to function right after printing?
14 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1167633
nope

>inb4 factories
not diy, get out
>>
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1849283018/makerarm-the-first-robotic-arm-that-makes-anything

is the only thing I would have in mind outside of professional machinery
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>>1167659
One ring to rule them all!

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what, would be the do,s and dont,s when creating one?

hope some smarts can share some experiences
43 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>1167280
Dont buy cheap ass parts that dont hold pressure.
Do a good valve trigger.p
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>>1167287
thanks man, also.

does 90 degrees angle have trouble under pressure? what im going for is something like this
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>>1167294
Use a piston valve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1VCZEXi384

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