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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 167. page

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File: sticky.jpg (629KB, 1224x1632px) Image search: [Google]
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Any wood experts that can identify what kind of wood this shillelagh shaped stick i found in a dried riverbed in northern Oklahoma about 6 years ago is made of?

Also would it make a good shillelagh?
9 posts and 4 images submitted.
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>>1165085
Knowing Oklahoma its probably nigger elm. Got way too many of those fucks around here.
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>>1165085
shillelagh's have knots
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hey, that's my grandma's femur not your harry potter stick

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>pic unrelated
What I have in mind is a Tiger I tank from the ww2 era. Some backround history of this machine, well it began development in 1937, and prototypes were finished in 1942. Early models were deployed in various fronts of the war in that same year.
Now lets get to business. This tank weighed 57 tons of pure German Krupp steel. Obviously I wont have access to this, so what steel am I looking to use? I dont know much about steel anyways, so what might I need to fabricate the correct plates and links? What do I need to actually put them together? Not a basic welding kit I'd assume...
>How much am I looking to spend, what exactly would I need when it comes to attempting to create such heavy machinery.
The front plate on this was 11 cm thick historically, and I believe that is the thickest plate on the tank. Also, right now I'm mainly concerned about the chassis and armor, general shape - etc. I'll worry about tracks, transmission and an engine with that kind of power later.
14 posts and 3 images submitted.
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I'm quite sure you have neither the skill, connections or money to make this project happen.
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>>1164878
Likely extremely true. Then again, topic suggests feasible, not if I myself should do it but I totally get you.
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>>1164873

You will never do this.

But you'd probably be using a mix of regular mild and AR-series steel.

Bear in mind that, even if it was entirely mild steel, you're still looking at nearly $30,000 just for the metal. AR steel will be more expensive. And this doesn't account for all the additional manufacturing costs for all the parts that aren't simple plates.

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Any machinist's out there?
25 posts and 4 images submitted.
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Looking for some input about depth of cut and the such
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>>1164608
You're probably going to have to be more specific
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Do you want an actual machinist or a cnc button pusher?

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How far can you go with Eastern Red Cedar lumber (the extremely soft stuff) in regards to utilitarian purposed builds?

I've recently received a free pallet of the stuff and love how aromatic it is, but hate how soft it is. The silver-lining is that, due to its softness, it'll make good practice for getting into hand-sawn dovetails.

Some things I'd like to make:
-Small Parts Cabinet for electronic comps
- Bookshelf
- Guitar case

All dovetail joints will be glued due to lack of trust in my ability and the wood. It's VERY soft.
19 posts and 7 images submitted.
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Bumping with pics of tool cabinet ideas and other projects I'm entertaining the thought of.
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This is something I'd like to go with. Also, if anyone has any tips, ideas or suggestions as to an interesting build design to aid in electronic component parts organization - please share!

I particularly have a lot of potentiometers and switches I've always had trouble organizing due to size and volume.

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>90+1927
>not having a shipping container pool
Sad
29 posts and 6 images submitted.
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guys, get out, get out now, it's a trap.
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>>1164142
Seems like it'd be awkward to see people's lower halves swimming. Also no side for short people. Not regulation.
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>>1164150
..make your own?
Yo do remember where you are, right?

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I have a 96-04 S10. It's in good shape, but I live where the roads get salted in the winter. So the truck is starting to rust. I do not want my truck to look like picRelated.jpg so this summer I want to clean it up.
I want to start with the rear bumper.
I looks like it is just bolted to the frame. So that should be pretty easy to remove. I will probably wire brush the areas around the rust.
Does anyone have recommendations for paint/primer etc?
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1164114
Chevy truck forums exist and S-10 info is plentiful.

Why are you not on a brand and model specific forum? Why are you asking on the worst place on the internet when so many Chevrolet resources exist?

/diy/ is not /spoonfeed/ You can research rustproofing options yourself. There are many.
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>>1164114
Pressure-wash the underside first so you can see exactly what you're dealing with.
Then wirebrush any rust spots and wash again.
Spot treat the rusted areas with an Epoxy based rust convertor.
This also acts as a primer, but I'd still suggest you paint over it with either an undercoat or some regular red oxide primer.
Then paint a topcoat over it because primers are porous.


For additional protection, I suggest you apply some type of underseal on the top coat.
Its about $10 for a quart so not that expensive. 2 cans should be enough.
You'll need an air compressor and a schutz gun.

>>1164973
Rust isn't vehicle specific, nigger tits.
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Cracked heads, engine valve rattle, oil leaks, every time.

Plasti dip like all the boy racers are doing, or if you don't care about it being ugly you can use rhino liner. I wouldn't use standard automotive paint and lacquer on chromed parts. Any rust you find has to be completely removed, otherwise it'll just rust again under the paint. Some body guys actually cut pieces out of the panels, weld new pieces behind, and fill the gap with a filler like bondo to smooth it out.

Get the idea that you'll just be able to touch up painted areas out of your head. You can do it, functionally, to slow rust but it'll look like shit unless you do the whole panel.

Undercoat is a pain in the ass, all rust, dirt, oil, grease, etc have to be completely removed for it to adhere properly. The oil leaks part isn't a joke, chebby is notorious for having rear main seal and valve cover leaks across most of their engines. It actually helps prevent rust in those areas, but it'll need to be spotless. Which more than likely means you won't be driving the truck during this process.

I actually really enjoy painting cars, but I have a full set up for painting and wood finishing already.

I would add up all the costs for this project, then compare it to just buying a different truck. If you're in the US check texas, arizona, generally around deserts, seriously. Bought an 84 suburban from texas with no rust, just had to redo the clear coat cause sand fucks it up.

>>1164973
You're the cancer as well, don't forget that.

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I have a Crate GX80 Amp that turns on and produces the usual hum, but there is no guitar sound when played into either of the inputs, and the channel select switch does not appear to do anything. It also makes a very loud crackling sound when touched in a certain way (difficult to reliably reproduce) or when turned on sometimes.

I opened it up and saw that there was some discoloration on part of the board near a wobbly resistor (its labelled "Colber 250 Ohm 5% CW10A)
(Im pretty sure its a resistor. One of the long blocky ones.) All of the other parts are firmly in place, but this one rattles around when touched. I want to know if I can fix this myself or if I should just sell the thing for parts.
10 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Another pic
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>>1164085
Really depends on your skill level. I'm okay at assembling electronics but poor at fixing these sorts of things unless obvious like burned out component.

I would check power supply first, then replace anything obviously blown. EBay is a good source. If I could get it running, would either sell or remove electronics and either run as raw speaker box with external amp, or right in an off the shelf amp circuit, using stock power supply. The PS case and speaker are most valuable parts... look on ebay you can find raw amp circuits from China cheap.
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Cracking and audio amps usually means bad or improper grounding. Yes the white things are power resistors, thats a 250ohm 10W resistor. You can probably unscrew the board and check the solder connections on the other side to see if heat has degraded the joints. Probably your best bet is to reflow all your through hole pieces, then start checking for failed components.

So, I've found a bunch of these IC holder things. There is a 95% chance that the pins are just gold plated, but they might be pure gold.

Is there any good way I can check for myself? I don't have any nitric or sulfuric acid. Ive tried dragging one along some glass and it doesn't scratch, so its hardness is consistent with gold...

And if they are gold, what should I do with them??
25 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>they might be pure gold
No, just no. If the base metal is yellow, you can expect it to be brass.
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>>1164006
there are zero application for solid gold machined ic extension pins
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>>1164006
Gold is too soft to make pins out of but it could be gold plated. You would have to remove it chemically and probably wouldn't be profitable.

>>1164014
Kys

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Has anyone here built something like this? I recently got thinking that I would like to build something like pic related in my backyard. It looks like a fun and relatively simple project, plus once it gets finished I would get constant hours of entertainment sitting on the deck smoking up and watching the fish. I have a few concerns though. Will this attract rats, weasels and other vermin to my property? Also, is something like this realistic in Canada with our long and cold winters? This is just something that popped into my head, I haven't done much homework yet and I'd like to see if any of you guys are knowledgeable about this sort of thing.
21 posts and 4 images submitted.
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>>1163990
That pond looks surprisingly deep.
It's hard to keep the water that clear. If it freezes during winter most fish are in trouble. I believe the weather is quite the same over there as it's over here in Finland. Shallow ponds freeze all the way to the bottom here....
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Built one for my parents, in BC.
About 30" Deep, 7' Round. Basic pump and filter.
Koi are surprisingly tough and can survive the cold.
For winter, buy a good floating heater to keep air circulating. Mom bought a shitty one. Died and so did the fish. Now they live in a tank inside for the winter.

Build where large birds cannot easily land, or put trees around it. No problem with vermin, but have no weasels around. Frogs will eat smaller fish though.
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>>1164024
>Koi are surprisingly tough and can survive the cold.
Thems cold-blooded animuls, doubt they GAF - assuming, the pond aint totally frozen. Think it needs to be about 3 feet deep minimum for Koi anyway, how much deeper so it don't totally freeze?- depend on your local climate, I s'pose.

File: Tools.jpg (176KB, 1024x1024px) Image search: [Google]
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I know I'll start a shitstorm here and I don't really care about the first two parts, but I'll take the risk ...

harbor freight - shit tier
craftsman - middle tier
wera - god tier

I have wrenches and spanners and various other tools from the first two
is it worth the money in getting the third one?
does anyone have experience with wera?
let's take the Wera Joker 11 piece metric set - $200
the same thing at HF is like $15-20 while craftsman (or husky or whatever) is MAYBE $50

my birthday is coming soon and I have a tool fetish but I'm not sure it's worth it for a Sunday mechanic (like me)
even if I plan to leave them to my son in 20 years ...
56 posts and 8 images submitted.
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>>1163968
>buying tools you don't need

fuck off /diy/ and go to a nice restaurant with your son
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>>1163968
>craftsman - middle tier
No better than harbor shit. They're probably both stamped out in the same chink factory
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>>1163968
ok, I'll try, but I usually wash my hands after I jack off
don't you?

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What is a good brand lawn mower that is....

-Fast (i have a big yard now)
-Can pull a trailer
-Can use mulcher attachments?
I'm giving my Husqvarna to my brother because I just bought a bigger house with a much bigger yard (9 acres).


Budget is under 12k USD

>today was my last time using my Husqvarna
10 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Compact tractor. A new one is far more then your nigger tier budget but you should be able to find an old piece of shit to fix up
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>>1163967
Goats or sheep, though sheep are less than willing to pull carts
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>>1163967
how big? if its over 3 acres i'd suggest getting a compact tractor like >>1163971 said. ~25 HP.

Log fence?
How stupid is this idea?
How would you go about "building" this?
I have unlimited access to logs and chainsaws...
44 posts and 4 images submitted.
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>>1163929
>how stupid
if it works it aint stupid

>building
stack them like bricks and use epoxy as the mortar

>unlimited logs and chainsaws
and permit to fall them?
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>>1163939
>If it works it ain't stupid

Goodwill disagrees.

I'm actually thinking about building a similar one on a small scale with the shitload of mesquite I have. Going to use mortar to hold them in place.
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>>1163939

If he lives out in the middle of no where, any permit enforcing authority wouldn't show up nearly in time to actually prove the wood was taken.

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hey /diy/, what's the best way to secure truck nutz onto the back of my truck?
25 posts and 5 images submitted.
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Put it between the back of your tailgate and the palm of your hand, then use a nail gun on the back of your hand to stick the testicals to your truck.
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>>1163896
Fuzzy handcuffs, or zip ties, if you're kinky.
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>>1163896
I want some of those for my bike seat

How to build an atomic shelter.
[Pic related]

Hello /DIY/,
In my garden I have a concrete cistern that I would like to build into a bunker, do you know how I could do it?
17 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1163582
just make it into an oubliette. if you forget about your captive they'll drown in the next rain - problem solved.
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>>1163599
Thanks !
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>>1163582
It won't be big enough. You need to be down there for 3-7 days which means you need a bed food water and waste storage for at least 10 days

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I'm training at the moment, as I don't particularly want to be a cowboy who can just drill locks and call it a day, but it would be nice to know how enjoyable and satisfying the trade is. As far as helping people stay secure and safe, the idea already feels pretty fulfilling. But is it a business that is going to make me want to end it all within several years due to bordom. I find lockpicking itself quite fun, but don't imagine it's needed all that much, as usually if you have to get someone into a place it's because they lost the keys, and it's faster and cheaper to just replace the lock.

Also, how dangerous is it? I can imagine getting calls from people 'locked out' of places that aren't theirs. That's a concern.

(As this is trasplanted from /biz, and someone raised the point, is it really so complicated and difficult to get into the trade in the US? I thought it was hard to find someone to teach you in the UK, turns out it's just pricey, but lisences and long training periods sound like they might heavily and perhaps purposfully restrict the market.)
10 posts and 1 images submitted.
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...anyone? I mean, I know it's a cutthroat business, but this is just friendly chatter on an image board. Surely there are a few of us with an interest in locksmithing on here?
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>>1163477
My cousin was a locksmith. He quit and became a blackjack dealer in vegas.

Rekeying most locks is easy.
Making copies of keys is easy.
Most lock picking is done with a pick gun.
I've been told that many locksmiths much prefer to drill out a lock because they can then sell the person a new lock on the spot.

Most locksmiths require you to show proof of residence before they let you in to a house. Besides a burglar isn't going to call a locksmith, he's going to donkey kick the door.

A few locksmiths work with safes. I know nothing about that aspect though as I've never known anyone who works with them.
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>>1163477
Locksmith here, 8 years in the trade, and i still love it

granted there are some days that are boring.. changing the locks on a house for example, its just pull locks of door, take to van, rekey, refit, check operation, and invoice.

but there are other things that are very rewarding, electronic access control is definitely one of those things... there's a fair bit involved, but when you flip the switch at the end and everything just works, its a good feeling...

and one other thing.. i'll never get tired of going to someone who's been broken into and had keys stolen, changing all the locks for them on a sunday night at 10pm when they thought they wouldn't get anyone and being told 'thank you, my wife will sleep tonight' Maybe i'm just old fashioned, but thats what really does it for me about the job.. knowing i've been there in the worst 15 minutes of someones life, and made a difference

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