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Rusty Truck

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I have a 96-04 S10. It's in good shape, but I live where the roads get salted in the winter. So the truck is starting to rust. I do not want my truck to look like picRelated.jpg so this summer I want to clean it up.
I want to start with the rear bumper.
I looks like it is just bolted to the frame. So that should be pretty easy to remove. I will probably wire brush the areas around the rust.
Does anyone have recommendations for paint/primer etc?
>>
>>1164114
Chevy truck forums exist and S-10 info is plentiful.

Why are you not on a brand and model specific forum? Why are you asking on the worst place on the internet when so many Chevrolet resources exist?

/diy/ is not /spoonfeed/ You can research rustproofing options yourself. There are many.
>>
>>1164114
Pressure-wash the underside first so you can see exactly what you're dealing with.
Then wirebrush any rust spots and wash again.
Spot treat the rusted areas with an Epoxy based rust convertor.
This also acts as a primer, but I'd still suggest you paint over it with either an undercoat or some regular red oxide primer.
Then paint a topcoat over it because primers are porous.


For additional protection, I suggest you apply some type of underseal on the top coat.
Its about $10 for a quart so not that expensive. 2 cans should be enough.
You'll need an air compressor and a schutz gun.

>>1164973
Rust isn't vehicle specific, nigger tits.
>>
Cracked heads, engine valve rattle, oil leaks, every time.

Plasti dip like all the boy racers are doing, or if you don't care about it being ugly you can use rhino liner. I wouldn't use standard automotive paint and lacquer on chromed parts. Any rust you find has to be completely removed, otherwise it'll just rust again under the paint. Some body guys actually cut pieces out of the panels, weld new pieces behind, and fill the gap with a filler like bondo to smooth it out.

Get the idea that you'll just be able to touch up painted areas out of your head. You can do it, functionally, to slow rust but it'll look like shit unless you do the whole panel.

Undercoat is a pain in the ass, all rust, dirt, oil, grease, etc have to be completely removed for it to adhere properly. The oil leaks part isn't a joke, chebby is notorious for having rear main seal and valve cover leaks across most of their engines. It actually helps prevent rust in those areas, but it'll need to be spotless. Which more than likely means you won't be driving the truck during this process.

I actually really enjoy painting cars, but I have a full set up for painting and wood finishing already.

I would add up all the costs for this project, then compare it to just buying a different truck. If you're in the US check texas, arizona, generally around deserts, seriously. Bought an 84 suburban from texas with no rust, just had to redo the clear coat cause sand fucks it up.

>>1164973
You're the cancer as well, don't forget that.
>>
>>1165004

You don't really need any fancy equipment to paint.
Equipment helps get a nicer finish with no dust or insects landing in the paint but even a single stage roller or brush job using enamel can look nice.

And with good reducer, you can even use a $30 electric HVLP
>>
>>1164985
>Epoxy based rust convertor
>primers are porous

Epoxy coatings arent porous unlike most other primers, although top coating even epoxy is recommended

sage for autism
>>
>>1165029
Your autism is broken. Read again.

I said regular oil based primers are porous, so should topcoat them to prevent moisture getting in.

The epoxy rust converters don't thechnically need a primer or a topcoat, but they are not very strong by themselves and scratch easy.
Putting a top coat on epoxy will lead to adhesion problems.
But putting primer or undercoat between the epoxy and topcoat really helps.
Thread posts: 7
Thread images: 1


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