I want to get into paper mache, and I want to practice by making my own Sonic Totem. Why? Because:
1.) It'll be a good starter project to "mess up" and have it look bad on purpose.
2.) Maybe because I have autism, but the adventures and exploits of Chris-chan and Sonichu are hilarious.
3.) Because of which, if I finish this and gain the attention of Chris, it might yield some hilarious reaction from him.
4.) This totem would technically have a dual purpose: I want to make it a cover for my Amazon Echo (lol botnot). So not only could I look at it, but it would actually do a thing.
So anyone have any experience with paper mache? I hear a lot about flour + salt + water, but I couldn't imagine that not leaving a powdery residue for painting later.
Glue and water sounds like the next best thing - cheap and should hold up better than all consumable ingredients.
Wallpaper paste - would probably be the sturdiest, but would be potentially toxic to work with.
You can get paper clay at hobby stores - i remember getting some at Hobby Lobby a while back for an art class I was in. The benefit to this clay is that you can mold it more easily than you can strips of paper in glue - it's a lot like a modeling clay. It dries hard and light too. The only problem is that the finished surface is kind of porous, so you may have to figure out a way to 'fill it in' so that you have a smoother surface to paint on. Spackle might work.
>So anyone have any experience with paper mache?
> I hear a lot about flour + salt + water,
It works, but imo the best is newsprint + cheap white glue + a roue. salt never made a difference for me.
Make a roue by taking boiling water and mixing it with a tiny bit of flour. Warm or colder water won't work. Then add glue to that. Soak newsprint in it quickly and apply it to a form.
A good papier mache sculpture is made on a frame; usually, you see people just blow up balloons to make domes, and then paint the domes to be globes or whatever. Some people make boards and then tape the boards together, but making a wire frame of your model will work much better in general if it's anything more complex than a ball. Don't worry about the framing material; the paper mache will drape over it. I've heard of success with just card (like those old Puzz 3d things) but stout wire is the gold standard
Also, something I found was good was adding cheap black poster paint to the mix; it makes it consistently gray. Painting over it after will look more consistent. A shot of black, professionals, etc. I did this years ago, before the meme on /diy/ and it really did make a more consistent color after painting.
Furthermore, taking high quality quilted paper towel and using that to make the outer layer works wonders too; you can do just one coat, and then paint and sand (or just rub) it smooth. Don't worry about the texture in the paper towel; it usually goes flat with all the moisture. Honestly, the only reason I wouldn't recommend using ONLY paper towels is sheer cost. They're made to absorb, and the actual structure is more the glue mix; the paper is just there as a medium for the actual structural bit that is basically dried glue and gluten.
I have an ugly daybed in the room with this desk that I would like to make into a matching piece of furniture. The desk is made of 1" thick particleboard with a dark cherry colored plastic laminate covering and a matching rubber strip around the top edge. I know these are common as fuck, but I can't find a manufacturer on it anywhere. I'd like to try to contact them and see if I can buy matching slabs or parts to make a daybed frame out of.
I bought an old drill. It has a funny plug and adaptor on the end. What is this? The end of the adaptor is a standard American 2 prong plug. It runs on standard 110-volt power but also supports 110 volts DC..
I know nothing about US sockets but at a guess I would say it is / was a DC standard. In Australia pic related has become a DC standard.
Looks like a pretty standard ungrounded 120v 20A twist lock. I'm 80% sure they sell that exact thing at Home Depot. They probably put that on because they had a 110/125VDC source and used that, but they used the adapter to get it to run a regular outlet.
Our shop does a similar thing because we use some jap equipment that runs 300v, most of our shit is 120, and a few things can use either.
What exactly is the point of this thread again?
Hey guys, /g/ said you'd be better at helping me.Anyways, I'm scrapping an EDM machine and some plastic injection molding machines and I have 50 or so 6DQ5 vacuum tubes and a couple timers. Any idea what this stuff is worth? Bear with me, these might be a little sideways.Tubes are mostly RCA with some Raytheon mixed in.
Here's one of the timers. This one's an Eagle Signal.
I've made a thread on /out/ but I'm sure you guys are rather knowledgeable regarding this stuff too
hurricane irma will be bearing down on Florida within days, and I live right in the splash zone on both the Euro and US models.
so let's discuss hurricane preparedness for everyone's benefit here in the southeast
a few off the top of my head, I've heard of filling your bathtub with water. Of course you clean the tub first, but how long does the water keep?
What if your drain isn't 100% water-tight? How do I keep it from all draining out?
are the little propane stoves worth it?
Wad a plastic shopping bag up and stick it in the drain. Water pressure will seal it against the pipe.
Water doesn't go bad unless you contaminate it.
Propane stoves will do everything you need, as long as you have enough fuel and use it sparingly.
I live in Orlando. Is there any way to get a decent generator or battery in time? I think all the stores are out and amazon won't make it in time
I need to run a few lights and stuff but for at least a few hours
Also should I board up my windows?
Which would be the cheapest, aesthetic way to add a mesh of touch sensors to an already made sculpture and locate the touched areas.
A) not aesthetic
B) not cheap
What you want is a capacitive sensor on a film.
Also, the capacitive touch sensors I mentioned are only touch-sensitive ``buttons''.
If you want to map a finger press on the entire sculpture to a 3D mesh, you're shit out of luck.
Should have thought of this before you built the damn thing.
At least then you could install a network of stress sensors (seriously expensive) on an inner skeleton.
So I'm not so into electrical stuff, and I need some help. I have a closet with no lighting in it, so I put remote controlled RGB LEDs along the inside. Recently my pet got in there and I tore one of the strips off the wall, and chewed it apart. Since I already have the remote and adapter, I can just buy the LED strip and attach it as long as they're the same type. It should work right?
I collect woods whenever a near tree of valuable wood is cut down near my place i try to get some of that sweed wood,
has anyone else experiences with drying wood yourself? maybe some advice to prevent damage to the wood.
i use the wood for knife hilts so it is quite important espacialy to not have tears through the wood.
pic loosely related
I am looking to learn to solder electronics. In the past I have tried learning from youtube videos and tutorials but the instructions weren't the best as they didn't go into details from prep to finished product. Long term I want to be able to learn how to solder fine points on a motherboard and such but I would need something to learn. Any good detailed tutorials or courses I can get for free to start me off?
soldering is easy.
solder melts at high temperature, everything needs to be hot.
soldering iron is hot.
apply soldering iron to area to be soldered
apply solder to area to be soldered, try not to touch the iron with the solder.
if component is hot enough the solder will melt and flow to make the joint.
feed in solder as required, remove solder, remove iron.
get some stripboard/protoboard, like pcb but straight tracks on the back, usually orange, some jellybean parts like resistors, capacitors, costs around 0.01$ for 100 of them, an iron and some flux core solder and practice practice practice practice practice!!!!!
if you aren't retarded you will pick up the principle in about 4-6 minutes. then you can go and buy a kit to build that does something useless like an egg timer or cylon eye light.
I'm not aware of a single resource which I could point you towards. However, from what you list your end goal aims as, I'd suggest browsing YouTube for a few tutorials/examples of reworking PCBs as a guide. EEVBlog has a multi part tutorial, other good channels are John Gammel and for watching someone doing real world applications, watch Louis Rossmann.
The advice from >>1238681 is okay for the very basics of soldering, but won't do for much else. As a starting point, get yourself a good quality, variable temp iron which supports a variety of tips. Buy some leaded solder and flux. If you do not have flux your job will be much harder, especially when soldering big integrated circuits. Do not get flux for pipes, you need proper electronics flux which comes as a gel, or in a pen.
Watch the above vids and taht should be more than enough to get you started on soldering - some of those channels get on my nerves a bit with their style, but if you can get through them it will be worth your time.
>try not to touch the iron with the solder.
so the soldering iron never actually touches solder? My crap-assed iron cannot heat the part if it does not have some liquid solder on it to help heat transfer. I really need to get a proper iron...
I want to finish the hardwood handle of this knife, but as this is my first time using anything other than wax, I've no idea where to start.
Looking around google has revealed that mineral oil or paraffin might be best, but it could be better mixed with beeswax; some sites make pure tung oil sound like a very alluring finish to use but the fact that it takes a long time to apply and isn't very durable makes me a little nervous; then there's a myriad of other oils, including polyurethane-based coatings, linseed oil, shellac, and some of them are food-grade whilst some of them aren't and the difference isn't always apparent since some of the non-food grade finishes evaporate when they cure leaving them food-grade...
I'm really confused. Could I get some suggestions on what to use as a finish? The rough idea I had in mind was applying paraffin oil and topping it with some dark restoring wax I've got lying around.
Some water resistance is a must. While I don't plan on letting my knife sit in water, it will be used in the kitchen, so contact with liquid is inevitable. Apart from that, I wanted it to bring out some colour, as the handle has been sanded to what feels like 800-1200 grit and is quite dull.
Depends how naturally oily the wood is, if its got a lot of oil then you can just use wax over the top and it'll probably be completely fine.
A really good and comparatively messy technique is to use clear drying, high viscosity CA glue, cover the wood, sand it off and repeat a few times and it'll basically plasticise the timber making it next to indestructible, water resistant and still keep its natural appearance. (Just mask off the metal areas)
It will also sand and buff up really shiny
I tend to use spray oil-based polyurethane myself on kitchen knives as its insanely tough, it will make it a couple of shades darker though. If you want to keep it lighter try a water based polyurethane
>thing only half works
>open up thing
>degraded wire insulation degraded causing short circuit
>cut off half an inch of wire, strip, and re-insert
>thing doesn't work at all now
What the fuck?
The high impedance connection was the only thing saving some poor damaged component hanging on for dear life to receive a full current pounding that pushed it over the edge into fucked-ups-ville?
Or alternatively it could be literally anything. Any anons have a crystal ball handy?
Hey, all. Was thinking of making an arcade controller. Is all I need are these buttons/joystick and the little controller board they sell with it? Wire it up and plug it in instead of the crappy little hand held controllers?
Basically. It looks to be one of the shittiest kits I have ever seen but yeah, it should work. For the price, you won't have lost much money if the buttons turn out to be mushy and the joystick terrible. If it does work out for you, hey, bonus. If not, you can always build with better components when you make Mark II. Learning on a cheap kit is never a bad idea.
It should be ok. The controller will be but short if you don't top mount it on the panel, and the buttons, although definitely not original sanwa buttons, will work ok. I would advise making sure you have the right tools before you start... The last buttons I got were 30mm buttons, and a torn apart garage and 3 hardware stores later, I decided to just order the hole saw on the net, because I was not about to spend $25 on some overpriced shit brand.
Hello /DIY/ hopefully someone can help me out. Recently started playing D&D with friends and am really getting into it. Been thinking about adding some props/armor to my role playing and have a few items left over from past halloweens that I'd love to use but I really want to weather them to get a nice authentic battlehardened look. Anyone have any weathering experience that could recommend some paints/techniques? Thanks! (Pic somewhat related I have a helmet similar that I'd like to weather just not as shitty)
>I really want to weather them to get a nice authentic battlehardened look
To be needlessly nitpicky, people generally keep the gear they rely on to stay alive at least reasonably well maintained.
I understand nords/Vikings aren't a race/class in D&D but I don't see the harm in using that instead of going out and wasting money on something historically accurate to dwarfs lol for all we know wherever dwarfs exist, they wear horned helmets aswell
My Sharp TV has this display problem (this is it playing a pure white video.) At first I thought it was an LED back light failure, so I took it apart and all of the LEDs were working with the same voltage through them too. I don't know what else could be the problem. Any ideas?
I want to build my dog a new doghouse, but my dog likes to jump into action on top the dog house roof. So, I am wondering if I should strengthen with hurricane straps.