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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 9. page

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Poured concrete into an atlas stone mold and it came out terribly. I had a hard time with the top half of the pour because the mold has a small opening that I underestimated.

>Can I use anything to fill the pits and valleys while keeping the stones strength?

>What can I do to improve future casts?

>Any other tips on improving the overall strength of the concrete
21 posts and 4 images submitted.
Concrete is full of rocks and therefore will not yield a perfectly spherically smooth shape. You can try adding self leveling compound or filter the rocks out and just use the powder
Tap the mold for awhile aft you pour it, this should work out any air pockets near the surface which is what caused the voids
Next time try mortar mix. It's just sand and cement minus the large stone aggrigate. Will settle better.
Also as >>1240013 says, you have to vibrate or tap the mold to get air bubbles out.

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Alright /diy/, new homeowner here. Guy who sold me this place took a bunch of his fancy chandeliers with him and I'm trying to replace them with normal ceiling fixtures. I get up there to attach the mounting bracket for a ceiling fan and see this shit.

It's like every room was designed to have a giant chandelier hanging in it - all there is is the electrical wires and a threaded pipe that I'm assuming can hold a tremendous amount of weight.

Any idea what this mounting style is called or if there are ways to adapt them to normal fixtures? The place came with a bunch of nice covers for all the unused hookups so I'm assuming it's not totally uncommon, but Google is failing me.
56 posts and 20 images submitted.
Just get any light fixture with a flush back (nearly all of them) and mount it over the hole to hide it. While you are at it make sure all of the metal is earthed with a wire terminated to it.
t. electrician.
Assuming that means drilling into the ceiling around the hole. I'm sure that would be sufficient for most lights, but I'm a little worried about doing that with the ceiling fan. It's going over our bed and I'd hate to have it fall on us while we're sleeping.

I think it would be nice if we could utilize the existing mounting hardware since it seems so sturdy.
Yeah you are going to need more than plaster for the fan but the fixing already there will work. The end of that center pipe will be threaded and the mounting for fans is threaded so it's just a case of finding / making a thread adapter if they don't match.
Some fans also use a hook, in that case you could just drill a hole in the pipe for the hook to grab.

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Is there a better way to have made this?
I think I did pretty good, seeing as how it's lasted 2 years.
31 posts and 5 images submitted.
splurging on an olympic bar and cross supports so that you don't crush your throat or crack your sternum/ribs.
>Is there a better way to have made this?

Yes. That's third world shit tier at it's finest. Literally balancing heavy weight over your neck with rusty steel pipe which isn't suitable structural at all. Please proceed and remove yourself from this planet before you reproduce.
Take this over to /fit/. They'll sperg out all over it.

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Today i was down at the local market saw a hatchet i liked and bought it $15 (aud), is snail brand hatchet (literally) pic related. Anyway the handle on it is a bit worse for wear and am looking to make a new one and am looking for suggestions on good quality woods to use, am looking to use a darker coloured wood if possible.
12 posts and 6 images submitted.
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Hickory, now fuck off

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Is there anything to worry about when using a DC motor to drive a load directly, without any sort of gearbox? I'm making a POV display type contraption. The motor runs at 12V and draws ~3A, which is well under the motor's maximum current draw. Although I notice the wires are getting warm (especially the thin ones).

Will this damage the motor? I haven't noticed the casing get warm, yet. Since the current draw is well within what it's rated for, it shouldn't be dangerous, no?
11 posts and 2 images submitted.
>The motor runs at 12V and draws ~3A, which is well under the motor's maximum current draw

It appears that you have confused "maximum" with "nominal"

Your motor will burn out. Kill yourself now.
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Maybe I quoted the datasheet wrong. It says the "maximum efficiency" current is 4.5A, and I'm drawing ~3.
Link to the motor you are using.

kys still recommended as a solution.

I've recently come into 4x 12V 26Ah batteries and would like to set up a home UPS system. It would be running my internet, wifi, and a arduino Mega and tablet I have set up for home automation. All in all maybe 500W.

Batteries are HZS 12-26. http://www.batteryclerk.com/store/p/67367-Haze-HZS12-26-HZS-12-26-Flag-12V-26Ah-UPS-Battery.html

I have a 1000W 12V inverter I'll use to go to 120V, but I'd like some advice on the right charger from anons who know.
31 posts and 3 images submitted.
Check this out:
Will that thing supply enough power? At 3.5 A thats only putting out 42W, I thought it would need to be rated higher to match the load on it or won't it just be draining the battery's?
That one would be for maintaining the battery state and occasional recharge use, say after a random infrequent power failure.

How are you using the system ?

Hello /diy/ I'm not sure if this is the place to ask, but anyway.

The company I work for is starting a new machinign project, and we will be manufacturing medical prothesis pieces like these titanium implants.
>pic related

We are currently buying the "swiss" (watchmaker) CNC 5 axis mill and the 3D scanner for QC.

Now we are looking for a 3D printer for prototyping. Any recommendations?

We need to make them as precise as possible and I'm not very up to date on industrial grade 3D printers.

Thanks in advance
12 posts and 1 images submitted.
Sorry, the implants in
>pic related
Are not titanium, but SS 304
We will be working with both materials... but that's not the problem at hand anyway.
>have a very specific question involving and investment of potentially hundreds of thousands of dollars
>ignore specific forums and resources
>ask some autists on a general DIY taiwanese 'man-dickgirl love' dating forum
I just want a starting point man, and since I'm regularly shitposting on 4chan I don't see why not.

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Looking for a DC-DC converter board preferably from EBay.
Input: approx 24V
Output: 40V - 60V approx 3A

Must be current limited adjustable and short circuit proof. RELIABLE !

Prefer isolated but not really necessary.

< $30

Recommendations ?
18 posts and 1 images submitted.
Nobody here can make a recommendation better than eBay itself. You search what you're looking for and look for reputable or reliable sellers, and double check to make sure you know what you're getting. Try "variable boost converter" with combinations of your specs in there. You're not going to find something specifically "short circuit proof" or specifically "RELIABLE", but if you know your shit you'll easily be able to fix anything that goes wrong on it. You can coat the whole thing in epoxy (or hot glue if you're a sick bastard) to waterproof it, but it's really not worth doing unless you plan on taking it swimming, a good enclosure will stop anything from getting in there and shorting it. And in the end you get what you pay for anyway.
>buy for me
no fuck you nigger. get cancer and delete your thread.
If you have not used any specific board or module with experience to share, go find some other thread to troll.

All of a sudden I have tons of time on my hands and nothing much to do besides play music and watch tv.
I want to get creative and make synthesisers, oscillators, guitar pedals, filters, pretty much anything music related from scratch.
I even heard that some people have diagrams for Roland hardware.

What's a good entry point for someone that's been soldering modchips and fixing electronics for years and what are some good resources?
24 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Get a fucking job you dirty hippie
Just because you're proud of your 1m cubicle and water-cooler social life doesn't mean we all should.
I quit my job to look after my sick father.
Dirty hippie excuses, i have my own business like a real man and not like some dirty hippie faggot

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I'm looking for the most lightweight impact wrench I can find. This means no cordless ones.

My options are either corded electric ones or air ones. Which one offers more weight savings?
43 posts and 7 images submitted.

It's not the full-on industrial top-of-the-line model, but it will do everything you need it to do.
Don't bother with corded electric one. Maybe get one of those as a backup for shit you can't get the air hose to, but otherwise not up to snuff.
Air is as light as it gets assuming you have a compressor that can keep up.

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