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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 17. page

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Hi /diy/
I was moving out of a place with a roof deck made of composite wood (rental). The movers didnt lift a table enough and now there is a midlevel indentation/scratch left in the middle of the deck. Like i had done with some other more cosmetic I used a hard bristle brush and an extra fine sanding sponge to even out the grains again and limit the the appearance of the scratch. I had done this before and while there was some discoloration (the deck is faded this patch is not) from where i feathered it all even out overtime. This issue is- i dont really have any time right now to let the color even out natrually and its been cloudly all day with no rain (which is the worst weather for this).

does anyone know a good way to speed up the process of getting everything back to even? im debating taking a little potting soil and kicking it into the area.

any tips would really help.

7 posts and 1 images submitted.
i would honestly leave it alone op, anything you do is just going to make it worse.
even composite decking outside will weather and wear, its not reasonable to expect it to stay fucking spotless for its whole life.
quite often it's obvious to you because you know its there too, i doubt anyone else will notice much less suspect anything outside of normal wear
>quite often it's obvious to you because you know its there

this is probably accurate. sadly my mother passed on her neuroticism to me and it will keep me up at night for the next 4 months.

i was debating just getting a good outdoor push broom and doing the whole deck.
also thanks and i will most likely leave it alone.

I'm trying to figure out if it would be feasible to build a hidden camera out of the following stuff:
>old tv/ac remote to use as shell
>camera sensor in place of the IR diode
>raspberry pi zero with wifi adapter
>old phone battery + makeshift transformer (cheaper for me) / usb power bank (more bulky and expensive)

I would like to hide it in a random pile of stuff on a bookshelf, and I can't afford to have it plugged to a wall charger. This would be an ideal usage scenario:
>want to take a peek
>send Wake-On-Lan trigger via wifi and connect to the camera via vnc or whatever else
>turn off the pi when I don't need it anymore
>retrieve the remote-cam when the battery runs dry
>charge the battery and place the remote somewhere else

I did some research but I can't figure out if the raspberry pi zero is able to wake from a turned-off/stand-by state via wifi.

Also, can Anon give me random ideas/suggestions?
20 posts and 3 images submitted.

Easily doable if you don't want the remote to work, still possible with a working remote. I'm surprised this doesn't exist off the shelf.

What happens when someone picks up the remote to try to use it though?
it does already exist, but where I live the only way to get it is to have it shipped from China. It would take literally months and it's not exactly cheap. Furthermore, it wouldn't be accessible via wi-fi.

I'm planning to put it in a messy place, where it should add to the heaps of stuff already there. I don't really think that someone would try to use it, and even if they were to do it, they would simply think that the remote is not working and they would put it back where it was. Probably by the wrong end for me to look, but at least it wouldn't be a dead giveaway.

I also thought about simply laying the raspberry + camera somewhere in the mess without any shell at all, since most people don't know how a camera sensor looks like, it would only seem a bunch of cables and electronic stuff. Still, it would be something that could catch the eye more easily than, say, a tv remote.

At the moment my main worries are about the setup's battery life, and the ability to turn the device on through the wifi network.

>so expensive

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anybody have any experience with biodigesters, if so, do you have any experience with using sunflower seed shells in them? sunflower seed shells have chemicals in them that stop plants from growing. that shouldn't affect the bacteria in the digester, but it could affect the usability of the leftover liquid as fertilizer. just wondering.
8 posts and 2 images submitted.
didn't post enough, i guess i'm asking if the plant effecting chemicals would be broken down by the bacteria, or unaffected.
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>sunflower seed shells have chemicals in them that stop plants from growing
How did the sunflower grow?
i walked right into that one


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Is it possible to homebrew some custom modeled food grade plastic bottles? My wife and her dad are amateur apiarists, and this is the first year they've gotten enough honey to properly sell. Right now they're just using the same boring bear bottles every other honeymaker uses, and I think it'd be pretty kickass to have bottles shaped like bees or something.

I looked into basic injection molding and it seems like on a small scale it's doable, but my concern is making sure it's safe for the honey and won't get them into legal hot water. I also looked into contracting established custom plastic companies, but they refuse to take any orders under 150k (we will have maybe two hundred bottles tops).

Harvesting season is over at the moment, so I want to use this opportunity to possibly implement the new bottles next year.
21 posts and 2 images submitted.
I personally don't buy honey in plastic, especially from small beekeepers, defeats the purpose desu.
Just sell it in regular jars but with a very noice design.
cartoon bee hive shaped bottles DEFINITELY already exist and can be bought for cheaper than injection moulding machinery
Sell them in glass jars or something

i think i might have a severe learning disability.
what trade do you recommend?
64 posts and 7 images submitted.
>severe learning disabilitiy

You, my friend, would fit in perfectly as an electrician. They are all brain dead apes.
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thanks pal
you could also be a carpenter but you have to get your brains knocked out first.

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Made a cup holder, its functional, unfortunately it's ugly as shit since I couldn't get the hot glue to flatten out.

I made the shape with aluminium foil wrapped around a glass, but glue stuck to the foil and I needed to heat it with a lighter to peel it off.

I tried smoothing it put using a glass filled with boiling water, but it wasn't hot enough.

Any ideas for how to pretty it up?
68 posts and 16 images submitted.
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Looks like eclipse glasses are pretty much sold out everywhere, and pinhole cameras are retarded.

Nasa says you need shade 14 or higher welder's lenses to look at the sun.

I have a few shade 8 welder's lenses lying around, so I dug around online to see if two layers of shade 8 lenses would equal one shade 16 lens.

Turns out if you double up lenses, you need to subtract 1 from the summation of the two shades you used. So two layers of shade 8 lenses would be 8 + 8 - 1 = Shade 15. Should be good to look at the sun with, I'll be trying it out tomorrow AM when the sun is up.

Anyway that's where I am at anons? Question though, can these lenses be cut like any normal piece of glass? I'd like to cut up some nice square or round lenses and 3D print some cool frames.

Also post your /diy/ eclipse gear
48 posts and 4 images submitted.
>making eclipse glasses out of welders lenses

Thats actually a pretty good idea, anon. And to answer your question, I'm fairly certain that welder's lenses are just tinted glass. They should cut like normal glass. Post results.
I don't find it uncomfortable to look at the sun with a shade 10 welding helmet.

I think NASA's recommendation of shade 14 is just them being very far on the safe side of things.
Take flat mirror
Take piece of cardboard/paper and cut a circle out.
Place cutout over mirror.
Reflect sun on side of building.
(you can use a round mirror)

Congratulations, you just made a pinhole camera.

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Years ago I had a battery charger designed specifically to recharge standard non-rechargeable standard alkaline batteries. It apparently worked by "pulse charging" them and you would get ~10 charge cycles before they died completely. Never once did they leak.

I'm wondering what the science behind this was because I can't find any modern chargers designed for non-rechargeable batteries.

Could I just put normal batteries into a NiCad charger and put it on a timer switch to turn on and off every few minutes so that they don't overheat?
7 posts and 2 images submitted.
You can still get the odd universal charger out there for about $30 or so, will charge an alkaline but at a small risk of rupture and shitting itself over everything. Generally you want to keep an eye on the temperature, hot to the touch is very bad but they will get warm
Have got one. It works but they do tend to leak if left long after charge plus the capacity goes down fast.
bend a paper clip into a C and connect the pos and neg

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I built a small 200 watt DC generator using a string trimmer engine, a DC motor from an electric wheel chair, and some parts off of ebay.

It has electric start, charges the battery that starts it, and can output 12 to 24 volts at 8 amps, using a DC buck converter.
6 posts and 2 images submitted.
That's pretty neat, well done. Only problem I can think of is that it's probably pretty loud.
It is a bit on the loud side, also I forgot to mention the black box on the front can also be used with a solar panel instead of the generator.
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the basic schematic.

Is there a better gun bluing method than this? I want to blue mine but this stuff is expensive at $30 a set and there isn't a lot of the solution.
20 posts and 2 images submitted.
don't you just need the middle bottle? it's like $9 on ebay.
i don't even own a gun and i picked up a bottle at a garage sale for $2. i'm gonna try it on some random steel machined stuff
There's hot bluing, which involves bluing salts and tanks and a considerable investment: not for the normal non-gunsmith type. There's also charcoal bluing, much cheaper, but it still involves a lot of heat (500-700°F?), so it's not applicable to everything. If your part is soldered or heat treated it's a no go.
Brownells bluing paste is better. Rubbing seems to work better than just letting it set, by the way. Just use mek or acetone to degrease with and your good.

Hypothetically, let's say you don't trust banks and you are looking for a safe way to stash some of your hard earned money at home, what the best way to do it?

Some hypothetical requesits
>fire and water proof
>difficult to steal
77 posts and 2 images submitted.
Ever heard of this thing called a safe?
this >>1235427
also never store all your waluables in one place... one fire and you are fucked
>Hypothetically, let's say you don't trust banks and you are looking for a safe way to stash some of your hard earned money at home, what the best way to do it?
Nonsense, if banks fail your moneys lose any value, no difference if you keep your money in a bank account or under a pillow in your home.

If you don't trust the economical stability of your country you should buy goods that maintain they value over time and are possibly easy to move and store (i.e. gold and diamonds).

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Saw a bunch of great vids on YouTube on turning your 3D printed models to cold cast models.
On the videos, they look and 'feel' great – they're magnetic and have that metal-ish feel to them, legit rust if you want them to, etc.
I just can't get a sense of their hardness/strength. If I were to hit the solid models in the vid with a hammer, would they immediately shatter to a billion pieces? Or get a dent? Can't find any stress tests. I want to cold cast a small-ish box from a metal powder and a binding agent, but I'm after maximum strength and durability. Wat do?

Related: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VBVU3FNt-s
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
They will be marginally more fragile than the binder you use--say, epoxy resin. The tiny metal particles will likely act as weaknesses in the cast, but not by a particularly noticeable degree.

If you hit epoxy resin casts with a hammer they will likely crack into a few pieces. More or less depending what variety you are working with.

If you want maximum durability, cast your metals the traditional way; melting them down before the pour. Any binder you use to cold cast is going to be greatly weaker than a solid piece made from the same metals.
Thanks for the info.
I'm just a poorfag who needs something small done so I can't justify buying all the bells and whistles needed for traditional casting.
outsource it.

make your mould, cast in wax, send out to an investment casting foundry to cast in steel, brass, bronze, silver or the likes.

shouldnt cost too much even for a one-off.

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I'm looking to rebuild my engine because my intake gasket blew, and it's an old motor. I've found a kit on Northern Auto, but I'd like some higher end parts. Should I just go with the full package, or piece my own together with higher-end plugs, injectors, ect?
10 posts and 1 images submitted.
Just do the intake gasket, don't tear down the motor unless you have to, or have a second car because you could very well screw yourself. Not trying to be a dick but it seems like you do not have the most experience so I would just do the intake gasket and hope that solves your problem
Intake is upper, just do the gasket and gtfo.
How long has the intake gasket been faulty? Is the engine consuming a lot of oil? Are you looking at rebuilding the whole motor?

It's most likely going to be easier to find a healthy motor to swap in than rebuild the whole thing. The 5.7 is cheap and abundant. It's also kind of a pile of shit... Plugs and injectors won't do a goddamn thing in terms of improving the power.

If you go the replacement route, go through the top end of the new motor before you put it in. Injectors, fuel system, gaskets up there are all shit. That's why people prophylactically replace the whole spider assembly when anything goes wrong. I've never seen one that wasn't chock full of soot and oil.

Ok so I have this thing connected to my pc, it's a serial device which is always turned on, but I can send it a signal to turn of temporarily, when this signal ends it will turn back on, so what I do is to send it many signals so it can be always off. The problem is that it turns back on between signals for a short period (maybe half a second). So I need it to be always off. I've been thinking about using a capacitor but I'm not totally sure about that.
16 posts and 1 images submitted.
Sorry I forgot to mention, if there's no signal, A is positive and B is negative, but when I send a signal, A turns negative and B turns positive, so I think a capacitor will just blow off
>Sorry I forgot to mention,

you need to post some more that start with that.
Like what?

Actual Silver Dagger

Does it make sense to forge a soft metal like silver? Would sterling silver used for smaller silverware be hard enough for the dagger to be "functional"?
17 posts and 2 images submitted.
For fighting often no, but as long as it was part of the blade ot can kill lychen
No. It will barely be sharp enough for a letter opener. Soft metals cannot hold a good edge. Anything softer than bronze isn't going to make a good dagger.

Could you kill someone with it? Sure, but you can do that with a sharpened toothbrush.
I would made a dull dagger made for stabbing only. Just wondering if it would bend or even break whilst stabbing a pork meat target.

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