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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 2. page

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So I decided to make myself a height-adjustable desk.. I found the humanscale float desk(pic) and really liked the design but I don't have the money to buy one or the skill to make one, so I kept searching and found this wooden counterweight desk. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X4-yOB3qFKI

so are there other desks like these that don't use electricity?
1 posts and 1 images submitted.
No replies in the DB for this post!

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Sheet rock repair help? Never done it before but I need to repair some holes in the wall. I have a couple big ones and a couple smaller ones. How does this look? I'm sure I need to put another coat on it after it drys.
3 posts and 2 images submitted.
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this thread again.

skim and some other stuff.

and a shot of something or other.
you know there is this thing called YouTube...
There are video's on there that give instruction on how to fix drywall
They even show you how to do it.

Joerg is live.

Any questions about slingshots?
3 posts and 1 images submitted.
i outgrew slingshots when i learned about pussy. wish Joerg would do the same.
he's married you fucking nigger

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Is there any reason for not just using 125° capacitors with a higher voltage, instead of buying different ones at 85°/105° and 16-100V? Apart from size and price?

I want to replace a bunch of old dry caps and they are labelled 47µ/16V/85°. Instead of buying caps with exactly those specs, I think about buying 47µ/125°/100V instead.

From what I understand, using caps specified for higher temperature increases the lifetime, and the voltage does not have any effect, except I could replace a larger range of 47µ with just one type, like 16V-100V.
18 posts and 4 images submitted.
Grossly over voltage rating them is not ideal. ESR may be very different too.
It really depends on what you are feeding them. If the voltage you are feeding them is over 16V then you are out of spec for the board you are working with. If you are feeding a 100V cap only 16V then there's no problems so long as the 47µ matches. I'm constantly using larger voltage and temp caps for tons of things. In some applications, you want to replace it with the exact specs, but that's really only for analog communications like HAM radio or micro-computers. Even then its only in certain places within those that it matters.
a 100V cap is gonna be 5 times bigger, so it probably wont fit on the board, and the pin spacing is gonna be different. so, it's fine if you do it, it's just not practical.

Alright guys I'm not sure if this is the right place for this but I need some help and I can't find it by doing a google search. I just came home for the night a my front door plunger just came out. I have no idea how to fix it. Please help if you can. Pic related it's all the parts I have.
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
If it came apart like that then something is broken. Get a new one. If you have a ReStore in your area they sell them cheap.
it's about 12:00 at night I was hoping that I could do something tonight.
Its fucking fucked lad, probably niggers fucked it up. So just buy a new one if you survive a savage butt raping by niggers tonight.

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How hard would it be to configure an accelerometer and a gyroscope to X device, then have the information gathered relay to an app.

Anyone have experience with this kinda shit? I know how to build the app, I don't know shit about the electronics though.
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
Pretty easy with arduino, not sure about the gyroscope but I'm sure getting an accelerometer would be easy enough. You could get a bluetooth module, too, and libraries for interfacing with them will be easy to get hold of.
Its not going to keep your roommate out of the fridge, anon.

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I want to make a fork strap for a pulley - like the 4" u-shaped item in pic.

Anyone know which thickness would be best for strength/bendable?
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
build a universal bender. Since it's bar stock you don't really need any dies. an probably go up to 1/8th inch if you heat it up and aren't a manlet
>build a universal bender
I wish. I use a vice and hollow breaker bars.
Which thickness do you think is in pic, and where do you buy your bar stock?
gonna be touch to make it look pretty, but you can do anything with a breaker bar and a hammer.

I don't know how big that thing is, so it's impossible to tell.

Search for a metal/steel distributor in your area. Call them and ask if they have a scrap pile they sell from. Place near me charges 60 cents a pound of off cuts and scrap. buy a few test pieces and figure out what works.

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Because I'm a real fucking dummy, I was trying to superglue something to a small electric motor. I wasn't wearing safety glasses while doing so, or while testing it. I noticed later that my phone's screen, which I had on the desk a fair ways away from the project, was misted with droplets of superglue.

My eyes aren't in pain, and they aren't stuck shut or open, or in one position (as described in some results of a google search). Should I start flushing my eyes anyways? Or will my body naturally take care of whatever small drops got in my eye.
25 posts and 5 images submitted.
You should probably wash your eyes out with diluted acetone, just to be on the safe side
Fucking don't.

Superglue is not poisonous, even when used internally, acetone is.

Flush with water. If the superglue is irritating the eye, you need to see a doctor. If not, don't worry about it.
If there's no discomfort or anything out of the ordinary, any trace ammount in your eyes will be taken care of naturally. (just like when it's used to seal cuts and incisions)

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I want to turn a baseball bat out of a piece of huckleberry. It's harder and lighter than hickory but the shit never grows straight for longer than a hammer handle's worth.

I was thinking about finding one growing in the open and putting a steam pipe around it but then how would I get the pipe off?
3 posts and 1 images submitted.
Damn dude, thats a cool idea. Purpleheart, unhhhhhhhh
Angle grinder, cut off wheel, care, patience, a very steady hand.

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I recently bought my first milling machine and of course some relatively cheap (not ultra cheap) ER32 collet set. When i use a 20mm end mill with it the runout is about 0.01mm. While milling it bangs like crazy and measuring the run out again it shows 0.05-0.06mm. Run out of the taper and collet chuck is below my measuring capabilities.

Should i just dispose it? Am i not torquing it enough?
23 posts and 3 images submitted.
use and endmill holder with a set screw.
According to my inch conversions, your runout is pretty small still. I mean, a little more than 2 thou runout is fairly reasonable. What kind of collet closer is it? You should be able to stick a finger indicator into it and spin the spindle by hand to see the runout. The other question is, of course, what does the part look like? Does it taper excessively when side milling a wall? If everything checks out, then why worry?

You'll likely have similar runout with a weldon or whistle flute setup like this. The advantage though is more rigidity, but you need a different holder for every diameter shank.

Anyway, OP, even fancy shrink fit holders still have runout. I mean, the collets may very well be bad. But like I said, if the results are acceptable, I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it.
.01mm is about the best you're going to get period without spending thousands on specialized tooling anyway.

>bangs like crazy

Answer all of these questions. They are all required to give you good answers.

>material you're cutting
>how and by how much you're holding it
>how are you cutting, conventional milling, climb milling, plunging, circular interpolation?
>feed rate
>coolant y/n
>depth of cut
>step over (how much of the tool diameter is working inside the material)
>what your machine actually is
>how long is the tool total from spindle
>how long is the tool from the collet

I need some help, i have this cable clip that was on the cable. But i had to repair the cable. In order to do that I had to remove the clip. Now I want the clip back on, but I'm unable to because it's really tight. Also there is a sort of spring mechanism in the clip.

Should i try something with extreme heat or cold? And how do i safely heat up rubber?
10 posts and 3 images submitted.
The clip
The Cable
taper with a sharp knife. then coat with a nice lube (silicone, etc, i'd avoid lithium, too sticky). push on with enough through to add the new connector.

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I want to rig up a desktop drawing board. I'm planning on using a big steel plate for the board itself (for purposes of magnetism) but I need a means to stably prop it up at the right angle.

Something like pic related would be perfect, but I'm fine with a nonadjustable solution too. Just something to prop up an 18x24" plate at a 20~ degree angle.

Any suggestions?
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
Just attach a big steel plate to a wooden block.
Can you drill steel? Can you weld?

They make a paint that you can stick magnets to, like for kid's rooms and such. I used it once and the fumes were pretty strong, but you could paint a sheet of plywood outside.

It's not going to be like steel, so as an alternative for stronger magnetic attraction I'd do what the other guy said, get some thin sheet metal and glue or screw it to a sheet of plywood.

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I'm in the process of building out a CNC router for my home shop and I had a question for the experts here about rail materials.

I'm thinking of having my machine with a cutting area of about 54" x 42" in order to accommodate larger pieces. That being said, I want to ensure that my rails don't deflect as the gantry moves alongside the sled, especially in the center. Would stainless steel rails be more resistant to deflection than something along the lines of titanium? Would aluminum be fine?

Any advice would be great appreciated!

Pic is intended outcome.
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
Linear guide rails are usually made of steel, so there you go
>Would stainless steel rails be more resistant to deflection than something along the lines of titanium?

I don't even think you can _get_ rails that are made of anything but some variant of chromium steel (effectively a type of stainless) without special ordering and paying out the ass. I've seen a few 3D printers that have carbon fiber tubes, but I can't imagine those are cheap, and they're not much more than a foot long, anyway.

There's no reason to use anything other than steel. You need them hardened to resist wear, and the stiffness of the rails themselves is almost irrelevant; they should be fully supported, and affixed to the structure of the machine itself every few inches.

Unless, of course, you're thinking of using unsupported rails. That, however, is flat-out not going to work for the kind of work volume you're looking at. You HAVE to use fully-supported rails for axes that long. The weight of the bearings themselves will throw them out a few thou without any load on them at all.
>CNC router

what are you routing that is that large, cabinet doors?

Like the other guy said, you need to support the rail the entire distance, which you could do with wood if your work does not require great precision.

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Hello, some of the finish on my glass table came off and my dad is trying to take it all off now, so it will look good. It's sort of a vynal laminate that came off. The trouble is Dad is having a hard time scraping it off with soap and a spatula. Can anyone advise on how this process can be made easier (pic related)?
2 posts and 1 images submitted.
Methylene Chloride based paint stripper

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>mom asks me to change a light bulb
>lamp housing in front of house has 2 lamps inside
>one controlled with a switch and one controlled with a sensor
>decide to remove one and connect the other one to the switch and the sensor in parallel
>notice the sensor lamp does not turn on, no problem, I'll fix it
>cables are a goddam mess (thanks dad)
>4 cables go to the sensor, it actually needs 3
>cables are spliced multiple times, with different color segments
>bring a spare cable to test continuity to identify which cable is what
>dogs chew my cable when I wasn't looking
>reconnect the lamp, sensor doesn't work
>the sensor detects presence (small led turns on), but does not activate the lamp
>eventually realize that the relay inside is always on (transistor got fucked)
>SMD transtor
>its not only soldered to the board but also glued because fuck you
>remove it and replace it with a insertion transistor nigger soldered in place
>then I realize I soldered it backwards, thankfully nothing got damaged
>it works!

TLDR: it took me 6 hours to change a light bulb
5 posts and 3 images submitted.
This is /diy/ in a shipping container nutshell.
>>it works!

so /diy/ is a blog now?
As a matter of fact, yes it is. I'd rather hear mediocre war stories than medium-effort trolls.

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