Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 2. page

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>>1242173

this thread again.

skim and some other stuff.

and a shot of something or other.

>>1242173
you know there is this thing called YouTube...
There are video's on there that give instruction on how to fix drywall
They even show you how to do it.

i outgrew slingshots when i learned about pussy. wish Joerg would do the same.

>>1242132
he's married you fucking nigger

Grossly over voltage rating them is not ideal. ESR may be very different too.

>>1241974
It really depends on what you are feeding them. If the voltage you are feeding them is over 16V then you are out of spec for the board you are working with. If you are feeding a 100V cap only 16V then there's no problems so long as the 47µ matches. I'm constantly using larger voltage and temp caps for tons of things. In some applications, you want to replace it with the exact specs, but that's really only for analog communications like HAM radio or micro-computers. Even then its only in certain places within those that it matters.

a 100V cap is gonna be 5 times bigger, so it probably wont fit on the board, and the pin spacing is gonna be different. so, it's fine if you do it, it's just not practical.

>>1241910
If it came apart like that then something is broken. Get a new one. If you have a ReStore in your area they sell them cheap.

>>1241911
it's about 12:00 at night I was hoping that I could do something tonight.

>>1241914
Its fucking fucked lad, probably niggers fucked it up. So just buy a new one if you survive a savage butt raping by niggers tonight.

Pretty easy with arduino, not sure about the gyroscope but I'm sure getting an accelerometer would be easy enough. You could get a bluetooth module, too, and libraries for interfacing with them will be easy to get hold of.

>>1241904
http://www.robotshop.com/blog/en/arduino-5-minute-tutorials-lesson-7-accelerometers-gyros-imus-3634

Its not going to keep your roommate out of the fridge, anon.

build a universal bender. Since it's bar stock you don't really need any dies. an probably go up to 1/8th inch if you heat it up and aren't a manlet

>>1241846
>build a universal bender
I wish. I use a vice and hollow breaker bars.
Which thickness do you think is in pic, and where do you buy your bar stock?

>>1241851
gonna be touch to make it look pretty, but you can do anything with a breaker bar and a hammer.

I don't know how big that thing is, so it's impossible to tell.

Search for a metal/steel distributor in your area. Call them and ask if they have a scrap pile they sell from. Place near me charges 60 cents a pound of off cuts and scrap. buy a few test pieces and figure out what works.

You should probably wash your eyes out with diluted acetone, just to be on the safe side

>>1241558
Fucking don't.

Superglue is not poisonous, even when used internally, acetone is.

Flush with water. If the superglue is irritating the eye, you need to see a doctor. If not, don't worry about it.

>>1241550
If there's no discomfort or anything out of the ordinary, any trace ammount in your eyes will be taken care of naturally. (just like when it's used to seal cuts and incisions)

>>1241274
Damn dude, thats a cool idea. Purpleheart, unhhhhhhhh

>>1241274
Angle grinder, cut off wheel, care, patience, a very steady hand.

>>1240957
use and endmill holder with a set screw.

>>1240957
According to my inch conversions, your runout is pretty small still. I mean, a little more than 2 thou runout is fairly reasonable. What kind of collet closer is it? You should be able to stick a finger indicator into it and spin the spindle by hand to see the runout. The other question is, of course, what does the part look like? Does it taper excessively when side milling a wall? If everything checks out, then why worry?

>>1240965
You'll likely have similar runout with a weldon or whistle flute setup like this. The advantage though is more rigidity, but you need a different holder for every diameter shank.

Anyway, OP, even fancy shrink fit holders still have runout. I mean, the collets may very well be bad. But like I said, if the results are acceptable, I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it.

>>1240957
.01mm is about the best you're going to get period without spending thousands on specialized tooling anyway.

>bangs like crazy

Answer all of these questions. They are all required to give you good answers.

>material you're cutting
>how and by how much you're holding it
>how are you cutting, conventional milling, climb milling, plunging, circular interpolation?
>feed rate
>rpm
>coolant y/n
>depth of cut
>step over (how much of the tool diameter is working inside the material)
>what your machine actually is
>how long is the tool total from spindle
>how long is the tool from the collet

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The clip

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The Cable

taper with a sharp knife. then coat with a nice lube (silicone, etc, i'd avoid lithium, too sticky). push on with enough through to add the new connector.

Just attach a big steel plate to a wooden block.

>>1240755
Can you drill steel? Can you weld?

>>1240755

They make a paint that you can stick magnets to, like for kid's rooms and such. I used it once and the fumes were pretty strong, but you could paint a sheet of plywood outside.

It's not going to be like steel, so as an alternative for stronger magnetic attraction I'd do what the other guy said, get some thin sheet metal and glue or screw it to a sheet of plywood.

>>1240632
Linear guide rails are usually made of steel, so there you go

>>1240632
>Would stainless steel rails be more resistant to deflection than something along the lines of titanium?

I don't even think you can _get_ rails that are made of anything but some variant of chromium steel (effectively a type of stainless) without special ordering and paying out the ass. I've seen a few 3D printers that have carbon fiber tubes, but I can't imagine those are cheap, and they're not much more than a foot long, anyway.

There's no reason to use anything other than steel. You need them hardened to resist wear, and the stiffness of the rails themselves is almost irrelevant; they should be fully supported, and affixed to the structure of the machine itself every few inches.

Unless, of course, you're thinking of using unsupported rails. That, however, is flat-out not going to work for the kind of work volume you're looking at. You HAVE to use fully-supported rails for axes that long. The weight of the bearings themselves will throw them out a few thou without any load on them at all.

>>1240632
>CNC router

what are you routing that is that large, cabinet doors?

Like the other guy said, you need to support the rail the entire distance, which you could do with wood if your work does not require great precision.

Methylene Chloride based paint stripper

This is /diy/ in a shipping container nutshell.

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>>1240464
>>it works!

so /diy/ is a blog now?

>>1240536
As a matter of fact, yes it is. I'd rather hear mediocre war stories than medium-effort trolls.