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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 4. page

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Am I crazy to want to run plumbing (supply and drain) outside of my house to the shed on the corner of my property for a washer/dryer? I'd need an ejector pump once it comes into the building under the foundation.
32 posts and 3 images submitted.
Drain, yes. Just let it drain outside. fuck it. If you're in an area that it get's super cold don't forget to use pipe tape.

>let it drain outside

can't, property slopes to the side so it'd go right into my neighbor's yard. I could only get away with it if I sent it under his deck, but he has a serious rat problem and supplying them with water probably wouldn't help the situation.
Win win:
Pvc to under his porch with a collection bowl at the end.

About 10 feet back is a poison mixing valve that poisons water. 2 problems permanently solved.

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I have this Milwaukee portable band saw. I made a metal stand for it for it to be a bench band saw that's easily taken out. But 99% of the time, it'll be on the stand I made.

I want to bypass the trigger and put in a toggle switch somewhere on the band saw to turn it on without having to press the trigger. I've just been holding the trigger with velcro and I've also thought about making an extension cord switch, but I prefer to do it this way.

I took pictures of the trigger switch (I think it's also a potentiometer along with another wheel potentiometer on the bandsaw), but I can't read schematics.

Which wires do I splice into to run new wires for the toggle switch I want to put on the bandsaw?
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
I suggest not doing this. I'd put a switch controlling an outlet. But that's just me.
I forgot to post that on the first picture, when I put my multimeter leads on the first two wires on the front, I get a continuity reading from the meter.

But when I unplugged those two terminals and tied them together with a piece of wire, only the light of the bandsaw came on. The wheels never turned.
Uhm what about using a zip-tie to hold the switch in place and cut the power with a switch?

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Mig, Tig, or Stick?
99 posts and 12 images submitted.
Could you get away with only ever owning a Tig welder? Or are there situations where you absolutely need a mig welder?
Asking for a friend.
All I know is stick is the worst

>tfw no alu welding

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Post 3D print models on thingverse etc that you like, I've just got a Wombat Drafter and need some ideas.

5 posts and 1 images submitted.
Make your own models, for projects and things around the house. Trinkets and statues get old real quick
Also there is a general
Why'd you buy it if you don't have ideas?
The people with grand plans of making money and being a big entrepreneur buying these things stupid.

Its a toy that can do some cool practical stuff. It doesnt need to be anything more than that

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So after doing some digging around I discovered that the active chemical behind Zerust and other VCI products is sodium nitrite.

Sodium nitrite is cheap and is commonly used in the food industry as a curing agent.

Zerust uses sodium nitrite blended into some sort of plastic. I'm not a chemist. If I had just stuck a small cloth bag full of sodium nitrite in my tool box shelves and gun safe, would it vaporize on its own and keep my tools and guns protected? Or does it need some sort of catalyst so that it releases whatever it releases into the immediate environment? Thanks in advance.
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
Just a guess but I'm thinking by embedding the sodium nitrite into the plastic it allows for a slow and controlled release.
>too much at once may not be a good thing
its probably cheaper and more convenient to just buy the vci sheets
>Zerust uses sodium nitrite blended into some sort of plastic.
Plus other shit. Plain sodium nitrite isn't going to protect your stuff from corrosion.

Quite likely true.

Hi im going to be finishing a desk soon and im using pic related.

Anyone have any advice, warnings, horror stories?

Also feel free to post related works.

Epoxy Resin general I guess.
1 posts and 1 images submitted.
No replies in the DB for this post!

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I just finished forging a bunch of masonry tools, I just tested them on a large granite stone I had in my backyard and they worked really well.

Anyone got any idea on what I should do with these things? I live in the North East, so I was thinking on making some fake runestones in the hopes of getting a little hoax going.
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
Definatley go for the hoax runestoned. Do some research first so its not obvious
You'll have to research a way to make the stone look old. Freshly cut stone looks a certain way and takes years to weather properly.
I planned on just leaving it and letting someone find them.

Looking for ideas / kit / whatever....

I want to buy or build a variable flow water valve.

Input from a standard house water feed so no pump required - output a controlled amount of water depending on how I power the thing.

Solenoid would be no use for the application I have in mind - on /off, but I open / close simply isn't gonna do it.

Imagine a tap I can turn electronically to restrict water flow.


(pic unrelated)
5 posts and 2 images submitted.
On / off, open /close * fucking phone auto correct
Proportional Flow Valves
Radio controlled high torque servo motor hooked to a ball valve.

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I'm thinking of buying a house, but the heating looks like pic related.

I'm not really at home in convector builds. The home-owner says its the heat sensor and that it is only loose but still works.

Is he right?
Is this easy to fix?

please halp
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
Anyone? ':D
diy is a slow board.. don't expect quick (<1 day) answers.

Convectors are just hot water radiators, tho some can use both hot water or steam.
The thermostat is bog simple, as long as the hollow tube that feeds the sensor isn't kinked or cut it's fine. If it is kinked or cut then you have to replace the whole valve assembly.

That does look like a frigging ratsnest.
Sorry for my inconvience ":)

And thanks for the reply.
It seems the owners have just pushed the wire through the grate and be done with it...

So in short, if I chech the metal tube and the wire for damage and find none (apart from the bends and twists) it should be ok?

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I am having a wood boiler installed, hopefully by the end of this week. Im not doing most of the indoor installation, but I will be laying the insulated pipe from the boiler to the furnace. im having a hard time deciding on which brand to buy. I want it to hold the heat very well, but not pay out the butt for it. anybody here can help direct me to what is economical but also wont lose more than 1 degree over the 50 or so feet the water will travel?
im leaning towards the 4 wrap covered in 4inch plastic tubing filled with spray foam
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
just normal high temp pex with closed cell foam insulation. the thicker stuff
its going to be buried underground so i dont think that will work.
sorry i didnt mention the underground thing before
but yes the foam cell stuff would work indoors on the non insulated piping thru the house
Incase it in styrofoam and bury it, that's what we did when I helped the neighbors install theirs. We used the durofoam stuff with the green on one side and silver on the other it was quite a bit more flexible than the standard stuff. I think we went 8" wide and then made a sandwich with it and glued it togethere with a slot for the pipe. Stagger the joints so it stays together well. Put sand underneath to level and cover it with sand before you bury it to keep bigger rocks from punching into it.

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