How would you airproof something like that on the picture. It can look ugly inside, doesn't matter.
Should I go batshit crazy with silicone?
Line the interior with solid panels and seal with your choice of sealant.
Remember if you are going to try fuck around with the pressure in/out side of the box, the seal goes on the high pressure side so they blow into a crack instead of away from a crack.
>"Rustic" POS box
>glue overspill, left in place on purpose
Answer OP, use an epoxy resin. Line the inside with muslin if needed to fill gaps, it'll turn into basically micarta when the resin cures.
Hi,anon, can you give me an idea, how can I do to increase my visits in my online store of fb?
Hey diy so I need to glue together piece of plastics and metal belt pulley to hold at least 1.3N-m (cca 14kg-cm).I already tried mamut glue and some chines 502 glue but nothing work. What should I try next?
pinch sections of the shaft so it's a little bigger than the bore of the cog. or build/melt up the shaft with some of the same plastic. use a vise or clamp to press fit them together.
how would i make a thing that plugs into my phone and plays music real fucking loud?
so far i've tried stripping some headphones and using bigger speakers but it wasnt louder
i'll probably need some electronic doodads and a power source, which i can buy, just tell me what i need and how to set it up
they were fucked and i decided to experiment a bit
i dont want to buy the whole thing because i want to learn aswell, also i'm guessing they arent loud enough to liquify your insides
Talked myself into a blacksmithing apprenticeship but I don't know how to do anything. Anything I can do so I don't get found out?
it is just a hypotetical question, but how can I make an obviously stolen looking bike to look less stolen?
Made a post about being interested in some sort of jewelry making method and someone pointed be towards silversmithing, been doing a lot of research and I'm really interested. In a nutshell, for certain projects I want to be able to carve a design into a block of some sort of molding/carving material, and then poor the molten silver in the cast. But I don't know what kind of cast I should be looking into, what kind of material would be best.
Sort of like pic related but with a lot more delicacy.
Anyone have any ideas?
You could use any metal of a higher melting temperature than your working temp. Wood is also a cheap way to do it, but not of good quality. But my recommendation would be to use Gypsum Cement
can't use would or metal because i need to be able to delicately carve my design into the material and then poor molten hot silver into the mold. Both wood and metal would be too difficult to carve small, detailed designs (most of which will be on rings).
Brands, wheels, what you use them for, etc.
I got this hitachi, https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hitachi-4-1-2-in-6-2-Amp-Sliding-Switch-Corded-Angle-Grinder/1000014116, from lowes I'm going to use it on concrete, stucco, and chasing cracks in my garage floor.
Getting a collection of diamond turbo blades, cup wheels, and tuck point blades.
angle grinders are the worst tool
cutoff disks can explode and kill you
wire wheels shoot needles at you
sparks burn holes in your pants
it's just a disaster every time
just use a hacksaw and a file
yeah mate ill just hacksaw my way through a bit of 12mm plate real quick and charge the customer for my time because "i don't like how loud it is :("
Ok so I'm basically fucked in Florida right now, too late to leave my house but I'm not super prepared. Flooding isn't a problem where I live but I'm worried about wind damage. We have impact resistant windows but I'm still looking to reinforce them some more. Plywood sheets are totally unavailable at this point. My idea is to put rolls of wire mesh (or something else better at dampening force) in my windows, cover it with plastic sheeting, then nail some 2x4s over it. Do you think this would work or do you have any other ideas for securing windows?
Because I wanted to leave earlier, then it was trending away, and now it's coming straight at me. My house can stand a cat 2 or 3 but now I just want to be sure. Hindsight is always 20/20 you fuck. so do you have some legitimate knowledge or do you just spit milk out your ass
The current car battery in my baja bug just sits on the floorpan with a piece of wood under it and tied down using a long bolt and metal strap.
What material other than wood can I use as a shock absorber underneath the battery? Other than soft woods.
Rubber pads. Go check out a home store and look for thick rubber mats or garage floor mats. They are made to get wet and get oily. Plus you can cut probably two pads or more out of them.
Old thread reached bump limit & fell off the end of the board. We had some good discussion, so let's keep it going!
Still got nasty jitters on my 6" cruising build, even with a new set of motors with soft mounts (FC was always soft mounted). Next step in the process of elimination is to swap out the FC with one I know flies smooth in another build.
Super frustrating that this build flies poorly when it's full of brand new/modern/decent components, while my 5" beater with older/cheaper components/protocols & which has seen a ton of abuse flies perfectly with next to no tweaking :/
What are the rest of you working on? Any other frustrating stories of stuff that should've just worked but didn't?
Finished this build and the way it flies is like night and day compared to the POS GB190 kit and X220S that I started off with.
Happy with its performance.
>frustrating stories of stuff that should've just worked but didn't?
Lawny. Such a wast of time and money. The transmitter and reciever were super twitchy. Impossible to mow in a straight line or even see wtf it is doing on the other side of the yard. Super dangerous. Buddy dinged my fender on my truck pretty good dicking around poping wheelies. Next step was a 5.wtf ever ghz camera so i can mow from my living room tv. Was gonna make it autonomous but the tech is slowly reaching for consumer priced robomowers. And i am broke atm.
He'll probably just become a battle bot over winter or be 4x4 and hide a lithium pack and a resivor for booze so i can sneek drinks into concerts. Don't know.
I shitpost it here sonetimes but i found a couple more pics so
Hey /diy/, I fucked up real bad
I keep a 5 cu ft. mini fridge in my trailer to hold my food, and because I'm a retard, I accidentally left a decent amount of leftover fish, fruits, and vegetables in the fridge while I spent 3 months at my buddy's farm.
When I returned, a bad, rotten smell was emanating from the closed fridge, and all the items had molded. There were also hundreds of fruit flies, covering every surface of the fridge's interior.
I quickly threw out all the items and I'm now trying to figure out how I can make this thing safe to use again. I'm pretty sure its salvagable but I think it's going to require a very heavy cleaning.
What do you guys think I should do about it? I was thinking about taking it out back and heavily bleaching out the inside and then spraying it out with the hose for a long time, but I am worried that doing that will damage the electrical and mechanical parts of the fridge.
Sounds good, just when washing the inside, be sure to take out the hose/similar stuff for water droplets (that normally just leads to tray above compressor) to away flooding the screw terminal.
My 1980s microwave died today. The light and timer circuit work but the magnetron and fan won't activate with the door closed.
Looking inside, the caps look fine, I don't see any obvious signs of short, the main 15A fuse is not broken. But I'm worried as frig farting around in there with high voltage circuits and caps I can't readily identify. I took pic related of the board behind the control panel, but this doesn't look like shorting, just discoloration from age or oil splatter or something. It's too large a spot to be from one or two burned components.
So maybe it's just the door switch or something. Maybe it's that top mosfet in pic related. What else should I look for? How long until the HV cap(s) have completely discharged?
Find the leads running from the board to the transformer. Put a clamp on amp meter there and see what you get when it's running.. if nothing then it's something in the 120 side like a fuse, door switch, relay on the board... or potentially the low voltage coil in the transformer is toast which you can check for by tediously checking continuity through all or in the case of the relay look for voltage coming from it when it's running... if you get amp draw then it's a problem in the high voltage side.. capacitor, diode, transformer, or magnetron... magnetron should have very low resistance between the two contacts and no circuit path to ground from either terminal... capacitor check for farads, the diode check with a 9 v battery to see if it's working.. transformer is continuity. Most microwaves these days leach capacitor to ground but if your paranoid bridge the contacts on the capacitor with a well insulated screwdriver or pliers after unplugging the unit.. take pictures of wires before disconnecting them.. more stuff in a microwave to stop it from running than lets it run... good luck
Toshiba 37av50u tv, won't power on. Nothing looks fried. None of the caps appear to be bulging or leaking. Solder joints all look good. Wire connections all look good. Getting continuity across the power supply fuse after removing it from the board (continuity before removing it too). What's next??
I just recently had my tv die from a power surge in a thunderstorm. My dumb ass had plugged everything else into a surge protector... Anyway, I found that my board had no continuity across like, 4 or 5 diodes. I guess I could have replaced them, but fuck, I just ordered a new board for $40 including shipping and called it a day. I recommend you do the same. My board was also a cheap POS that didn't even have a fuse. Cheap Walmart Black Friday shit.
i was trying to fix my grandparents garbage disposal and the happened. any ideas for getting the other half out?
dremel a slot into it and use a screwdriver or epoxy another screw onto it and use a screwdriver after it's cured. precision counts, don't derp the threads on the female part of wherever that came from
>first use a penetrating fluid like pb blaster, wd40 or atf+acetone
>drill a hole in the center of the screw
>Insert extracror and extract that nigger