Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 13. page

File: 5b5ec4cd-1f10-49d1-b193-7397092d66b5_1000.jpg (114KB, 1000x1000px) Image search: [Google]

114KB, 1000x1000px

Alright so here's the deal: I have a piece of furniture here that's been painted with Rustoleum paints. It has varying levels of smoothness all over it, some places very smooth, other places sort of rough. I'm fairly certain it's due either to the interaction of the paint and the material or just the material itself, since I know the guy that made the stuff sanded the wood very smooth before painting. But I don't really know.

I don't really know much of anything about painting or finishing furniture or that sort of thing, so my question is this: Is there a good clear coat I could apply to this thing that wouldn't fade or change the colors and would dry nice and smooth? I was looking into both Rustoleum's clear coats and the various bar top glazes and such but the odd shape of the thing (it has a few angles that would be nearly impossible to get flat) would probably make the resin angle difficult.

File: IMG_0285.jpg (162KB, 500x499px) Image search: [Google]

162KB, 500x499px

Putting in some base cabinets. Studs are 24" OC. That means not enough studs for each cabinet. How crucial is this? They aren't hanging so is a cleat or a horizontal piece of plywood really necessary? Will screwing them togethr be enough for cabinets without stud attachment?

Basically some cabinets won't have studs to attach to but their neighbors, which they will be screwed to, will. Will this be sufficient?

Inb4 OP is kill

File: pressweld_worknech_3__51910.1425855989.1280.1280[1].jpg (699KB, 1280x855px) Image search: [Google]

699KB, 1280x855px

I recently picked up an all steel workbench like picture related, but heavier (same length but 2 sets of drawers and a full shelf underneath). Same manufacturer though. Because of limited space, I need the ability to move it around. So, I put some casters on it. The problem is they raise the height of the table too much. What are some ways that I can attach wheels to this monster without making it more than an inch or two taller?

I was thinking of some kind of Z shaped bracket that I could attach to the feet that would allow me to mount the casters behind the feed instead of under them. I have no idea how to search for something like this though. The legs of the bench are 6 inches wide and have two mounting holes in them. Any ideas?

File: IMG_20170902_144124033-picsay.jpg (154KB, 944x685px) Image search: [Google]

154KB, 944x685px

Alright /diy/, I started with a small project which turned into a pain in the ass. Just bought a condo 3rd floor and the bathroom floor tiles were breathing. So I decided why not remove those few tiles and glue them back down. Start removing the tiles and pretty much all the tiles lift up. The grout was holding them together and the motar seemed to let go. Fine removed all the tiles and damaged hardi backer. Found my plywood underneath is uneven and made up of 6 pieces with mold on them. Fine, went on to remove that now I found my joist has been hacked at heavily and that it sags in that area. I don't want to remove the tub to sister properly unless I can sister from one side. Basically no idea how the fuck to approach this fully.

File: Soap-making-courses-Ruth-Romano.jpg (779KB, 1000x667px) Image search: [Google]

779KB, 1000x667px

Hey /diy/
So I am making soap but i realize i don't have a scale to do measurements. I do however know I have 2 cups of pork fat, so how much lye/water do I need?

File: boards.jpg (701KB, 1632x1224px) Image search: [Google]

701KB, 1632x1224px

Pic related is from inside an Aiwa bookshelf stereo. Need to remove board so I can repair tape player assembly. I would think this was a slip-together connection... but I tried prying it apart in both directions, assuming it was a circuit-board-into-socket connection (like a cartridge) and it would not budge... any harder and I'd have broken the circuit boards.

How does one disassemble this type of connection? What am I missing?

File: rps20170902_125943.jpg (72KB, 624x624px) Image search: [Google]

72KB, 624x624px

Hi everybody, I've placed cups with hot coffee in them directly on my table and now those parts have gotten faded and I need some help on how to make them look like new again.

File: IMG_20170902_102807081.jpg (3MB, 2340x4160px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 2340x4160px

Hey /diy/,

This side of my desk broke as I was leaning on it.

If I tried to drill a new screw in, it'd split the wood. I was thinking perhaps some wood glue? However I'm not sure if it'll hold up.

Can you help a nibba out? I need some advice

File: Untitled.jpg (617KB, 2533x1372px) Image search: [Google]

617KB, 2533x1372px

So I'm copying Alec Steele's forge but I want to thermally isolate the rests at either end as I know I'll be burning myself on them daily if I don't.

Does anyone know of a tough thermal insulation, ideally a mat, that I could place between the rest and the forge? Pic related, this is where I would want it.

File: 20170826_005901.jpg (3MB, 4032x3024px) Image search: [Google]

3MB, 4032x3024px

I bought an old cabinet with sliding doors that have these white plastic guides that keep the door aligned with a grove along which those guides slide. Unfortunately, two out of the three guides are broken and I'm not sure what the correct name for them is and where I could purchase replacements. Pic is one of the unbroken guides. I'll post another pic in the following post.

File: gearbox.jpg (66KB, 716x613px) Image search: [Google]

66KB, 716x613px

Gearing down a motor
I have this pretty powerful 12V DC motor (rated for ~6000 RPM with a moderate load). I want to gear it down. What's the best way to do this DIY style (barring going out and buying a specialized gearbox?) I already have a gearbox for a small DC motor, but I'd need to modify it to make it work.

Alternatively, I read somewhere that you can make pretty good belt drives using shrinkwrap tubing? I have plenty of shrinkwrap and am willing to cut some wheels out of MDF.

File: monitorStand.png (139KB, 935x1000px) Image search: [Google]

139KB, 935x1000px

My desk space is very limited so I am building a monitor stand that will allow me to place the keyboard under the monitor and still use it comfortably. However I'm also thinking of making some sort of heater to put inside of it, as whenever the weather is cold my hands always go numb, and any gloves thick enough to keep my hands warm would impede my ability to use my keyboard or mouse. Any ideas how I would accomplish this?
I'm putting some LEDs on the underside pointing down to illuminate the keyboard, so I'm going to get a big sheet of felt to put under the keyboard to reduce glare from the desk as it's fairly shiny. I was thinking of perhaps using excess felt to insulate the inside and stick one of those zippo hand warmers inside. However I think the opening on the front would be too wide and would let any warm air out. I don't want to put a curtain or anything over it either, I don't have good sensitivity in my fingers at the best of times so I can't touch type. I need the keyboard to be visible.

File: hentai.jpg (147KB, 1300x1061px) Image search: [Google]

147KB, 1300x1061px

That was posted some time ago. What are the options? Where do I go; Do I need a date, a keyword, a board, etc, .

File: ffff.jpg (16KB, 321x157px) Image search: [Google]

16KB, 321x157px

painting https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IIR7Lb2pr1I

File: paintscratch.jpg (135KB, 1258x892px) Image search: [Google]

135KB, 1258x892px

Is it possible to repair paint scratches on plastic devices? This 3DS has some scratched paint on one side and I'm interested if it fixable, would an acrylic paint marker of a similar color to the trick?