Alright so here's the deal: I have a piece of furniture here that's been painted with Rustoleum paints. It has varying levels of smoothness all over it, some places very smooth, other places sort of rough. I'm fairly certain it's due either to the interaction of the paint and the material or just the material itself, since I know the guy that made the stuff sanded the wood very smooth before painting. But I don't really know.
I don't really know much of anything about painting or finishing furniture or that sort of thing, so my question is this: Is there a good clear coat I could apply to this thing that wouldn't fade or change the colors and would dry nice and smooth? I was looking into both Rustoleum's clear coats and the various bar top glazes and such but the odd shape of the thing (it has a few angles that would be nearly impossible to get flat) would probably make the resin angle difficult.
Putting in some base cabinets. Studs are 24" OC. That means not enough studs for each cabinet. How crucial is this? They aren't hanging so is a cleat or a horizontal piece of plywood really necessary? Will screwing them togethr be enough for cabinets without stud attachment?
Basically some cabinets won't have studs to attach to but their neighbors, which they will be screwed to, will. Will this be sufficient?
Inb4 OP is kill
Base cabinets? You'll be fine.
Make sure they're level when you install them.
When I yanked the late-70s originals out of my place, the builder went apeshit with nails to secure the cabinets to the wall. The one between fridge and range was loose/wobbly since I moved in. Couple of screws secured it so it didn't wobble as much.
But since it wasn't into a stud, the nails pretty much just pulled right out of the wall.
Really need to get my new ones ordered...
I recently picked up an all steel workbench like picture related, but heavier (same length but 2 sets of drawers and a full shelf underneath). Same manufacturer though. Because of limited space, I need the ability to move it around. So, I put some casters on it. The problem is they raise the height of the table too much. What are some ways that I can attach wheels to this monster without making it more than an inch or two taller?
I was thinking of some kind of Z shaped bracket that I could attach to the feet that would allow me to mount the casters behind the feed instead of under them. I have no idea how to search for something like this though. The legs of the bench are 6 inches wide and have two mounting holes in them. Any ideas?
Alright /diy/, I started with a small project which turned into a pain in the ass. Just bought a condo 3rd floor and the bathroom floor tiles were breathing. So I decided why not remove those few tiles and glue them back down. Start removing the tiles and pretty much all the tiles lift up. The grout was holding them together and the motar seemed to let go. Fine removed all the tiles and damaged hardi backer. Found my plywood underneath is uneven and made up of 6 pieces with mold on them. Fine, went on to remove that now I found my joist has been hacked at heavily and that it sags in that area. I don't want to remove the tub to sister properly unless I can sister from one side. Basically no idea how the fuck to approach this fully.
Has 6 points of damage in 7ft, that's the main one 5" by 7" wide out of a 2x10. Dam thing runs the length of the condo. They left the old drum trap in it but d/ced. And the end of the joist going into the brick wall was cut by 2.5" inches from the top by 8 in length.
From the floor below I would try a hydraulic jack and I-beam to straighten out that floor joist. Floor joist which can be "blocked" with reinforcing boards perpendicular and lengthwise to hold the correct geometry. So add a ceiling patch to your project.
So I am making soap but i realize i don't have a scale to do measurements. I do however know I have 2 cups of pork fat, so how much lye/water do I need?
the trolls on this board are very impressive.
IF YOU HAVE TWO CUPS OF PORK FAT AND DON'T KNOW HOW MUCH LYE
so wait. you're not trolling?
Pic related is from inside an Aiwa bookshelf stereo. Need to remove board so I can repair tape player assembly. I would think this was a slip-together connection... but I tried prying it apart in both directions, assuming it was a circuit-board-into-socket connection (like a cartridge) and it would not budge... any harder and I'd have broken the circuit boards.
How does one disassemble this type of connection? What am I missing?
Hi everybody, I've placed cups with hot coffee in them directly on my table and now those parts have gotten faded and I need some help on how to make them look like new again.
This side of my desk broke as I was leaning on it.
If I tried to drill a new screw in, it'd split the wood. I was thinking perhaps some wood glue? However I'm not sure if it'll hold up.
Can you help a nibba out? I need some advice
>Tale panel off
>See if it has dowells
>Use woodglue on dowells
>Screw metal braket where its broke
Probably wouldnt even bother, would be more worth your time going to the dump and finding a proper wooden desk to fix up.
So I'm copying Alec Steele's forge but I want to thermally isolate the rests at either end as I know I'll be burning myself on them daily if I don't.
Does anyone know of a tough thermal insulation, ideally a mat, that I could place between the rest and the forge? Pic related, this is where I would want it.
I bought an old cabinet with sliding doors that have these white plastic guides that keep the door aligned with a grove along which those guides slide. Unfortunately, two out of the three guides are broken and I'm not sure what the correct name for them is and where I could purchase replacements. Pic is one of the unbroken guides. I'll post another pic in the following post.
Here is one of the broken ones. I'd greatly appreciate any help in locating replacements.
Gearing down a motor
I have this pretty powerful 12V DC motor (rated for ~6000 RPM with a moderate load). I want to gear it down. What's the best way to do this DIY style (barring going out and buying a specialized gearbox?) I already have a gearbox for a small DC motor, but I'd need to modify it to make it work.
Alternatively, I read somewhere that you can make pretty good belt drives using shrinkwrap tubing? I have plenty of shrinkwrap and am willing to cut some wheels out of MDF.
shrinkwrap like heatshrink?
i don't know what you mean.
but you cab buyfag belts for shop tools / vacuum cleaners etc for big things. elastic bands will do for smaller but they perish. lego sell elastic bands that don't perish, they are real glossy but i don't know what why or how they are made or what is different and they are extortionate of course. if you have an old tyre or bicycle inner tube thats maybe punctured or aquire one could work if you cut to length.
yeah you can rig up a jig pretty simple to cut circles on just about any machine, don't need to be perfect.
either cut a deep slot groove for thick or section belts, flat belts you go the opposite way, cut the pulley with the largest radius in the centre and taper down towards the edges. might seem counter intuitive but it pulls the belt back on when it wanders, look it up if you don't believe me.
My desk space is very limited so I am building a monitor stand that will allow me to place the keyboard under the monitor and still use it comfortably. However I'm also thinking of making some sort of heater to put inside of it, as whenever the weather is cold my hands always go numb, and any gloves thick enough to keep my hands warm would impede my ability to use my keyboard or mouse. Any ideas how I would accomplish this?
I'm putting some LEDs on the underside pointing down to illuminate the keyboard, so I'm going to get a big sheet of felt to put under the keyboard to reduce glare from the desk as it's fairly shiny. I was thinking of perhaps using excess felt to insulate the inside and stick one of those zippo hand warmers inside. However I think the opening on the front would be too wide and would let any warm air out. I don't want to put a curtain or anything over it either, I don't have good sensitivity in my fingers at the best of times so I can't touch type. I need the keyboard to be visible.
Why don't you just heat your house you fucking dingus. If you hands get cold wear mittens of keep a bottle of hot water by your desk to grope.
That was posted some time ago. What are the options? Where do I go; Do I need a date, a keyword, a board, etc, .
and then google it, because /diy/ archive only goes back a short ways. some other archive goes back much further.
4chan has been around for a long time, but moot managed to fuck it so much that it pretty much will always be fucked.
Checking the archive on the site, but for most boards that only goes back a week
Check actual archive sites like achrived.moe or archive.4plebs.org
google 4chan archives and you'll find some
also protip, if you're looking for a specific thread type in the words you're looking for like "4chan /info/" for /info/ threads, then go to googles search tools and set it to verbatim to find those exact phrases
try various combos when searching like "4chan archive /info/" or "4chan /info/ dump" or "4chan infographics" or some shit
just keep trying and you'll find SOMETHING which will guide you further
Is it possible to repair paint scratches on plastic devices? This 3DS has some scratched paint on one side and I'm interested if it fixable, would an acrylic paint marker of a similar color to the trick?
Literally just look at how Nintendo painted your model and then do the same thing.
T. Painted my laptop after I dropped it down the stairs into my empty fish tank and had to paint the scratches from the glass out.