Anyone try the Openbuilds minimill? Looking for something that can cut plastic (ABS, HDPE, POM) with accuracy under 0.1mm
Saw on a forum that the minimill supposedly has decent accuracy. Anyone here try it or other <$1000 desktop mills?
3d printers and laser cutters arent built with lateral forces in mind, they simply wont be stiff enough to chew through material without flexing and walking making your cut inaccurate.
The axis movements in all of these small machines are pretty accurate nowadays, cheap little controller boards with proper steppers.
It looks stiff enough to cut through some plastic if you have a stout enough spindle
I've been looking into this from the perspective of being as cheap as possible to play around with. This guy has some interesting cnc machines he's built from basic materials. Probably not what OP is looking for, but interesting for /diy/ tinkering.
Anyone here ever made their own plate armor? Seems straightforward enough if you don't mind the hours and hours of hammering flat sheet metal into something wearable.
Got fucked up pouring gas into a carb. Anyone else have pics of /diy/ related injuries?
>oh boy gonna turn my garage into a laundry room
>it's actually not a garage but a converted carport
>also an unlicensed structure
>failed inspection because the garage door (which we rarely open and itself sits on the ground) is technically too heavy for the structure
>asbestos roof tiles
>likely lead paint used as the exterior's base coat
on the bright side the cracked slab isn't a major problem since it's just a driveway and not a foundation
City requires a new inspection for new sewer drains. Have to pass before I move appliances in.
yes, which is going to be a fun experience because I can't even move a storage trailer in because I have a bunch of nonfunctional (as in not starting or rolling) vehicles in front of the garage doorway.
So I have a window A/C unit, but my windows open side-to-side, not top-down. For the last few Summers I've just had a piece of plywood cut to cover the hole, but next Summer I'm planning to get a new A/C (which is actually in the mail, on it's way here), and want a more permanent solution for the gap.
I'm thinking of making something with a thin strip of insulation in the middle, two pieces of plywood on either side, and then a nice wood trim along the edges. The inside "wall" would be painted to match the walls and trim, respectively. I'm also thinking of putting a handle on the inside (to make inserting and removing it each season easier), and screwing it into the window.
Has anybody come across a similar situation, where an A/C doesn't fit the orientation of the window? What was your solution?
Have a similar problem, but I've just got a 'portable' AC unit.
The hose thing does not fucking fit or stay in the window what so ever.
Really the solution is always the same:
Build a bracket that fits in the window, and holds the thing in there.
Insulate well around edges with foam tape or such.
Use foam board sandwiched between plywood (with something weather resistant on the outside) to fill large gaps as in OP's pic.
Poured concrete into an atlas stone mold and it came out terribly. I had a hard time with the top half of the pour because the mold has a small opening that I underestimated.
>Can I use anything to fill the pits and valleys while keeping the stones strength?
>What can I do to improve future casts?
>Any other tips on improving the overall strength of the concrete
Alright /diy/, new homeowner here. Guy who sold me this place took a bunch of his fancy chandeliers with him and I'm trying to replace them with normal ceiling fixtures. I get up there to attach the mounting bracket for a ceiling fan and see this shit.
It's like every room was designed to have a giant chandelier hanging in it - all there is is the electrical wires and a threaded pipe that I'm assuming can hold a tremendous amount of weight.
Any idea what this mounting style is called or if there are ways to adapt them to normal fixtures? The place came with a bunch of nice covers for all the unused hookups so I'm assuming it's not totally uncommon, but Google is failing me.
Just get any light fixture with a flush back (nearly all of them) and mount it over the hole to hide it. While you are at it make sure all of the metal is earthed with a wire terminated to it.
Assuming that means drilling into the ceiling around the hole. I'm sure that would be sufficient for most lights, but I'm a little worried about doing that with the ceiling fan. It's going over our bed and I'd hate to have it fall on us while we're sleeping.
I think it would be nice if we could utilize the existing mounting hardware since it seems so sturdy.
Yeah you are going to need more than plaster for the fan but the fixing already there will work. The end of that center pipe will be threaded and the mounting for fans is threaded so it's just a case of finding / making a thread adapter if they don't match.
Some fans also use a hook, in that case you could just drill a hole in the pipe for the hook to grab.
Is there a better way to have made this?
I think I did pretty good, seeing as how it's lasted 2 years.
>Is there a better way to have made this?
Yes. That's third world shit tier at it's finest. Literally balancing heavy weight over your neck with rusty steel pipe which isn't suitable structural at all. Please proceed and remove yourself from this planet before you reproduce.
Today i was down at the local market saw a hatchet i liked and bought it $15 (aud), is snail brand hatchet (literally) pic related. Anyway the handle on it is a bit worse for wear and am looking to make a new one and am looking for suggestions on good quality woods to use, am looking to use a darker coloured wood if possible.
Is there anything to worry about when using a DC motor to drive a load directly, without any sort of gearbox? I'm making a POV display type contraption. The motor runs at 12V and draws ~3A, which is well under the motor's maximum current draw. Although I notice the wires are getting warm (especially the thin ones).
Will this damage the motor? I haven't noticed the casing get warm, yet. Since the current draw is well within what it's rated for, it shouldn't be dangerous, no?
>The motor runs at 12V and draws ~3A, which is well under the motor's maximum current draw
It appears that you have confused "maximum" with "nominal"
Your motor will burn out. Kill yourself now.
Maybe I quoted the datasheet wrong. It says the "maximum efficiency" current is 4.5A, and I'm drawing ~3.
I've recently come into 4x 12V 26Ah batteries and would like to set up a home UPS system. It would be running my internet, wifi, and a arduino Mega and tablet I have set up for home automation. All in all maybe 500W.
Batteries are HZS 12-26. http://www.batteryclerk.com/store/p/67367-Haze-HZS12-26-HZS-12-26-Flag-12V-26Ah-UPS-Battery.html
I have a 1000W 12V inverter I'll use to go to 120V, but I'd like some advice on the right charger from anons who know.
Will that thing supply enough power? At 3.5 A thats only putting out 42W, I thought it would need to be rated higher to match the load on it or won't it just be draining the battery's?
Hello /diy/ I'm not sure if this is the place to ask, but anyway.
The company I work for is starting a new machinign project, and we will be manufacturing medical prothesis pieces like these titanium implants.
We are currently buying the "swiss" (watchmaker) CNC 5 axis mill and the 3D scanner for QC.
Now we are looking for a 3D printer for prototyping. Any recommendations?
We need to make them as precise as possible and I'm not very up to date on industrial grade 3D printers.
Thanks in advance
>have a very specific question involving and investment of potentially hundreds of thousands of dollars
>ignore specific forums and resources
>ask some autists on a general DIY taiwanese 'man-dickgirl love' dating forum
Looking for a DC-DC converter board preferably from EBay.
Input: approx 24V
Output: 40V - 60V approx 3A
Must be current limited adjustable and short circuit proof. RELIABLE !
Prefer isolated but not really necessary.
Nobody here can make a recommendation better than eBay itself. You search what you're looking for and look for reputable or reliable sellers, and double check to make sure you know what you're getting. Try "variable boost converter" with combinations of your specs in there. You're not going to find something specifically "short circuit proof" or specifically "RELIABLE", but if you know your shit you'll easily be able to fix anything that goes wrong on it. You can coat the whole thing in epoxy (or hot glue if you're a sick bastard) to waterproof it, but it's really not worth doing unless you plan on taking it swimming, a good enclosure will stop anything from getting in there and shorting it. And in the end you get what you pay for anyway.
All of a sudden I have tons of time on my hands and nothing much to do besides play music and watch tv.
I want to get creative and make synthesisers, oscillators, guitar pedals, filters, pretty much anything music related from scratch.
I even heard that some people have diagrams for Roland hardware.
What's a good entry point for someone that's been soldering modchips and fixing electronics for years and what are some good resources?
I'm looking for the most lightweight impact wrench I can find. This means no cordless ones.
My options are either corded electric ones or air ones. Which one offers more weight savings?
It's not the full-on industrial top-of-the-line model, but it will do everything you need it to do.