Hi, i need some advice on how to put some music devices on my desk.
Pic related show my idea. What do you think about the position of the monitors?
So I discovered the world of SLV's ((slow moving vehicles)) out of a place of desperation, I could never afford a big car or insurance for one and I see allot of people using none plated golf carts all the time in my city of New orleans and had a chat with one of the operators and they said it was alright and I see them frequently enough to believe cops dont fuck with them about it. So I went off and bought a solar powered tuk tuk Pretty neat huh?
she is being imported from china and even had a nineteen mile an hour limiter put on it so it could be shipped here with no odometer which i plan to install one myself... it uses a thousand watt motor which is considered a toy by most states and the company classifies it as a tricycle as it has three wheels. It is also powered by the sun along with the ability to charge from an outlet. one set of batteries is 5 cells The capacity right now is 45 Ah with the proclaimed range of a hundred mile range or more. and there is another compartment for another 5 cells So Im wandering would it be ok to link up 5 lithium cells to the existing cells to extend my range also they say the solar panel will let it go farther. Thanks for reading im super excited as it should be coming to the freight yard tomorrow. and here she is
First step, get a 'cycle analyst' or similar watt meter. It's not always easy to tell when the motor is under more/less load by feel - especially in that large contraption. Work out what your 'watt per mile'. These guys also are usually just using an ebike motor controller. Find the ~10" long extruded aluminum housing, take it apart, count the number of mosfets, and try to connect it to your pc via a usb->serial adapter and 'lyen's programmer and the upgraded settings based on the number of mosfets you found on your controller earlier. '1000w' from your vendor is pretty meaningless (and verfiable via the above mentioned cycle analyst) so there often is 3000w+ headroom on these motor/controller combos.
The only real issue with adding lithium is it throwing off your battery voltage warning points ... deep over-discharge is bad.
Looks rad - it's probably a shitbox though. If you're using this for a business I'd suggest learning to weld and getting a spare motor laced into the wheel. Also be careful overtorquing the studs on the ebike motor. All the chinese stuff is made of cheese grade steel or threaded odd.
Additionally, post up pics of the braking situation when it arrives. If you end up being able to flash your controller with new settings, one of those will be a 'regen' amount. Cranking this up can eliminate most of physical load on the brake calipers and really improve stopping. If it's using bike stuff, you can get a decent pair of hydro disc brakes for $60 used on ebay.
Also I'd plaster the body in some 3M reflective tape and extra LED brake/amber lights. if you ever drive this thing at night. It's just not something drivers will be on the lookout for.
Anyway, good luck anon. I have a lithium powered UTV I use for urban transport when I can't get by with my ebike. It's a pretty neat way to live.
What is the best screwdriver set on the market?
Between endless slasher films to millions of rednecks buying ARs to prevent blacks from stealing their refrigerators, it's pretty obvious that America is obsessed with the idea of keeping our homes safe from intruders. Why then do we put so much emphasis on installing and using locks on doors, yet give no fucks about the fact that we have windows made of 1mm thick glass two feet over?
I understand that bars on windows is seen as a sign of poverty, and would definitely not be approved by any HOA, but why don't we use either sliding-style metal bars or mall-style metal curtains that can be disengaged during the day?
These could be deployed at night or during extended periods of home absence, completely eliminating any concerns of break-in, need for home security systems and need to buy a gun for self-protection. And, as I mentioned earlier, they could be disengaged during the day, making them less of an eyesore. Home break-ins would be nearly impossible, unless someone picked your main door lock, which is rapidly becoming impossible with the introduction of systems like the Bowley lock.
Am I missing something here?
Aesthetics, also they are heavy to operate, they are like mini garage doors and is a bitch to setup if you want them powered, also will be expensive for so many different windows around the house. Many reasons why it isn't a thing.
Okay, but what about something similar to pocket doors? Manually operated steel grates that slide over a window? Obviously this would involve additional labor, but not mechanically complex or likely that hard to build into a new home.
Is either one of these more reliable than the other? I currently have the ball float type on the left and it's doing that hammering/honking thing when it's refilling. I've done all the usual things to try and fix it so its time for a replacement but I want something to last, any plumb anons advise me?
Hey DIY, how are you guys doing? I'm running into budget issues with my tools for work. I'm looking for wrenches, reasonably priced but better than HF quality. But I need sizes from 1-3/16 to 2 inches and 24mm to 40mm.
Also, I'm a mechanic for a prominent rental company while you suggest things for me, I might be able to help you find the right tool for your job.
What is your fucking budget dumbass. Kind of important information to provide. There is a big difference between saying you can spend $50 and you can spend $400.
How much can you spend per wrench or how much is the total you can spend? You need about 50 wrenches, right? Do you need them right now or can you do some digging first? Awaiting your response.
Yeah I fucked up.
Probably around 200 for each set metric and SAE. I don't think I need every step in metric usually 32 34 36 40 are what I end up borrowing.
I'd also like to get a set of crows feet the same way.
Time wise, I have access to my coworker's boxes and unless their using it, its not an issue but I'm tired of asking.
As much as I would love to have a snap on set, I don't use them enough to justify having them in snap on wrench over 1-3/16 or 24-25mm. I'd still like American steel but I'm willing to flex a little for like Gear Wrench or some other quality imported tool.
Application is mostly for use on hydraulic lines and fittings. Occasionally on pullies I can't get a socket on. Seldom high torque applications.
And because I'm so rural Snappy is the only place I can reliably get warranty.
I have looked at blackhawk as that's what one of my coworkers has, but the black oxide finish on those tools is already rusting and he's only had them for less than a year and I'm in the high plains which is pretty arid.
pic semi-related one of the bigger pieces i work on.
>but better than HF quality.
stop with that bullshit. maybe their electrical tools suck, but their best quality sockets, both regular and impact are excellent and cost way less than elsewhere. also their open end, box end, and combination wrenches are fine if you buy their best.
I can't speak for their ratchets because I already had plenty.
buy a good Harbor Freight socket and try to break it. Post the pic here if you succeed without doing anything crazy like smashing it with a sledge hammer.
my sink sprayer broke and im not sure how to fix it. im able to put it back on but the head comes off after a couple of time that i use the sink, i guess an important piece fell off under the sink. now, when i turn on the sink, the water just comes through the hose. is there any way i can turn off the water to the sprayer hose
you see that clip thats in the pic
that holds the bottom piece from falling off
if you lose that you're fucked
buy a new one and in the meantime turn the valves under the sink to the off position
So my brother's rabbit bit off the connector to usb fan. He tried to fix it but apparently it just shuts off the laptop when he connects it. This is what he brought me, any Ideas what to do?
Possibly. It looks like he pulled them out and shoved them back in the connector, but he did it backwards.
The red wire should go to the post that's in the + side on the back. It looks like its backwards in your pic.
I would probably take the connector off and remove it from the board. Then just solder the wires directly to the board.
I think I would also tape the whole thing to the usb plug because there's not a useful amount of wire left and it's just going to break something dangling.
In b4 someone jokes about eating your brothers pet. Because hurr hurr rabbits
If I want to do some plastic welding and not get cancer, what hardware is advisable? I read on one site that a 3m 7500 mask with 60926 p100 filters would do the job, but also recommended the 3m 6000 full face cover to also protect eyes from fumes. Most of what I work with is ABS and I don't expect to do it very often. Is a full face cover worth the 4x cost increase on amazon?
Pic not related
I want to build something that beeps loudly when there is a powercut. The simplest design possible. I'm thinking some kind of capacitor connected to a siren that activates when the power drops. How would I go about making it?
12v battery charger, 12v battery, 12 volt siren, 12v relay. Wire relay so that when the power is on from the charger, it is energized, and the siren is off. Soon as power cuts off, relay fails closed and completes circuit from battery to siren. Done.