I bought an old drill. It has a funny plug and adaptor on the

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I know nothing about US sockets but at a guess I would say it is / was a DC standard. In Australia pic related has become a DC standard.

>>1238983
Looks like a pretty standard ungrounded 120v 20A twist lock. I'm 80% sure they sell that exact thing at Home Depot. They probably put that on because they had a 110/125VDC source and used that, but they used the adapter to get it to run a regular outlet.

Our shop does a similar thing because we use some jap equipment that runs 300v, most of our shit is 120, and a few things can use either.

What exactly is the point of this thread again?

>>1238983
buy a new cord and install it. not worth finding a receptacle just for that.

can't tell from the motor plate, but verify it's a 110-120 motor,

Here's a link to a reference chart for different plugs.
http://www.nooutage.com/nema_configurations.htm

>>1238983
more pics of the drill

>>1239097
This.. need drill pr0n
>>1238983
15A Locking Plug, 2 prong, 2 wire. up to 125VAC. Rather obsolete.

The drill is either double insulated (no connection between neutral and case) or grounded with the neutral. So it's rilly important to get the wires straight.

>>1238983
Get a new cord and get one that has a ground and use the ground wire to attach to the drill case. You'll need to probably tap a screw hole or use a self threading screw. Those old drills with the all metal cases are widowmakers otherwise. They are usually grounded to the neutral, but don't count on it. I've picked up and tried to use many of them and could feel a slight tingling because they were not grounded.

>>1239004
It reads "110".

>>1239185
>Get a new cord and get one that has a ground and use the ground wire to attach to the drill case.

And the first time anon finds a reversed outlet there is going to be fireworks in the drill.
Not a good idea.
If you want to be safer use a GFCI cord or outlet with the drill.

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OP here. It runs but I haven't cleaned it up yet. Needs a new cord, new bearings, and new gearbox grease. Outside of the grime and a piece of the D-handle that is broken off, it is all there.

>>1239002
>>1239019
Thank you. I buy a lot of old stuff like this but I had never seen that style of plug before.

>>1239004
I plan to. The cord is shot. There is almost as much electrical tape on it as original insulation.

>>1239097
It is 17 inches from the rear handle to the tip of the chuck. I haven't weighed it but it takes two hands to hold level. It is made by the Independent Pneumatic Tool Company, which means it is pre-1954. They changed their name to Thor that year.

>>1239185
>>1239159
They are not grounded to the neutral. They didn't use polarized outlets back then so you could plug it in either way. If they grounded it to the neutral you had a 50/50 shot at killing yourself when you plugged it in. Once grounds become a thing just about every drill out there started using them. This one had one also, it's got three wires in the original part of the cord, but some shithead tradesman cut the original plug off and put this weird one on there.

>>1239159
I got you covered.

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>>1240150
On the other side, there is a tag listing all of their service centers.

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>>1240150
This is its little brother. It is newer but smaller capacity.

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>>1240154
The data plate.

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>>1240150
I'm holding off on this one. All it needs is a new cord but I might end up refurbing the original instead because it is only that one spot with the problem and it has a square end that attaches to the drill.

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>>1240159
VintageMachinery.org says it's OEM is the Portable Power Tool Corp.

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>>1240150
Millers Falls Dyno-Mite. Not a terrible impressive drill. Kind of dumpy looking. It has help up well, though. Outside of getting that paint off it needs no work. The bearings are still good and so is the cord.

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>>1240163
The last one, for now, unless someone requests more.