Am I crazy to want to run plumbing (supply and drain) outside of my house to the shed on the corner of my property for a washer/dryer? I'd need an ejector pump once it comes into the building under the foundation.
>let it drain outside
can't, property slopes to the side so it'd go right into my neighbor's yard. I could only get away with it if I sent it under his deck, but he has a serious rat problem and supplying them with water probably wouldn't help the situation.
I have this Milwaukee portable band saw. I made a metal stand for it for it to be a bench band saw that's easily taken out. But 99% of the time, it'll be on the stand I made.
I want to bypass the trigger and put in a toggle switch somewhere on the band saw to turn it on without having to press the trigger. I've just been holding the trigger with velcro and I've also thought about making an extension cord switch, but I prefer to do it this way.
I took pictures of the trigger switch (I think it's also a potentiometer along with another wheel potentiometer on the bandsaw), but I can't read schematics.
Which wires do I splice into to run new wires for the toggle switch I want to put on the bandsaw?
I forgot to post that on the first picture, when I put my multimeter leads on the first two wires on the front, I get a continuity reading from the meter.
But when I unplugged those two terminals and tied them together with a piece of wire, only the light of the bandsaw came on. The wheels never turned.
Mig, Tig, or Stick?
Could you get away with only ever owning a Tig welder? Or are there situations where you absolutely need a mig welder?
Asking for a friend.
Post 3D print models on thingverse etc that you like, I've just got a Wombat Drafter and need some ideas.
The people with grand plans of making money and being a big entrepreneur buying these things stupid.
Its a toy that can do some cool practical stuff. It doesnt need to be anything more than that
So after doing some digging around I discovered that the active chemical behind Zerust and other VCI products is sodium nitrite.
Sodium nitrite is cheap and is commonly used in the food industry as a curing agent.
Zerust uses sodium nitrite blended into some sort of plastic. I'm not a chemist. If I had just stuck a small cloth bag full of sodium nitrite in my tool box shelves and gun safe, would it vaporize on its own and keep my tools and guns protected? Or does it need some sort of catalyst so that it releases whatever it releases into the immediate environment? Thanks in advance.
Hi im going to be finishing a desk soon and im using pic related.
Anyone have any advice, warnings, horror stories?
Also feel free to post related works.
Epoxy Resin general I guess.
I just finished forging a bunch of masonry tools, I just tested them on a large granite stone I had in my backyard and they worked really well.
Anyone got any idea on what I should do with these things? I live in the North East, so I was thinking on making some fake runestones in the hopes of getting a little hoax going.
Looking for ideas / kit / whatever....
I want to buy or build a variable flow water valve.
Input from a standard house water feed so no pump required - output a controlled amount of water depending on how I power the thing.
Solenoid would be no use for the application I have in mind - on /off, but I open / close simply isn't gonna do it.
Imagine a tap I can turn electronically to restrict water flow.
I'm thinking of buying a house, but the heating looks like pic related.
I'm not really at home in convector builds. The home-owner says its the heat sensor and that it is only loose but still works.
Is he right?
Is this easy to fix?
diy is a slow board.. don't expect quick (<1 day) answers.
Convectors are just hot water radiators, tho some can use both hot water or steam.
The thermostat is bog simple, as long as the hollow tube that feeds the sensor isn't kinked or cut it's fine. If it is kinked or cut then you have to replace the whole valve assembly.
That does look like a frigging ratsnest.
Sorry for my inconvience ":)
And thanks for the reply.
It seems the owners have just pushed the wire through the grate and be done with it...
So in short, if I chech the metal tube and the wire for damage and find none (apart from the bends and twists) it should be ok?
I am having a wood boiler installed, hopefully by the end of this week. Im not doing most of the indoor installation, but I will be laying the insulated pipe from the boiler to the furnace. im having a hard time deciding on which brand to buy. I want it to hold the heat very well, but not pay out the butt for it. anybody here can help direct me to what is economical but also wont lose more than 1 degree over the 50 or so feet the water will travel?
im leaning towards the 4 wrap covered in 4inch plastic tubing filled with spray foam
its going to be buried underground so i dont think that will work.
sorry i didnt mention the underground thing before
but yes the foam cell stuff would work indoors on the non insulated piping thru the house
Incase it in styrofoam and bury it, that's what we did when I helped the neighbors install theirs. We used the durofoam stuff with the green on one side and silver on the other it was quite a bit more flexible than the standard stuff. I think we went 8" wide and then made a sandwich with it and glued it togethere with a slot for the pipe. Stagger the joints so it stays together well. Put sand underneath to level and cover it with sand before you bury it to keep bigger rocks from punching into it.
Hi /diy/, I'm in the process of making my own keyboard drawer for personal use. I've solved most of the issues except the part which holds the entire thing to the table.
I'm looking for a solution like pic related.
Thanks in advance for any help and/or advice you can provide.
If you really want to use clamps then you can make some out of C brackets and bolts, buy some clamps, or salvage clamps from something else which has clamps.
Add rubber pads if you don't want to damage the table surface.
I appreciate the advice, but I forgot to mention that this drawer is to be used at work, and as such, drilling and/or screwing (apart from clamping, of course) into the table aren't an option.
What do I need to type into google and/or ebay in order to find C brackets such as in pic related?
Anyone cut their own hair here? $20+ and a tip and the wait time is too much for something I need twice a month or more. I have clippers and scissors already, all I want to do is a simple part, doesn't have to be a hard fade or anything. Any good guides out there? It seems like getting the back would be pretty difficult.
i cut my own hair now for ~7 years
wash first so its wet, pull it taut, cut as required. repeat.
to begin i cut it right into the wood, real short and for the first fortnight everyone tells me it looks shit and patchy and big bald spots but im a real function over form kind of guy, don't give a fuck.
received clippers as a present from family, much quicker than scissors, just clipper all over, slightly longer on the top, shorter back and sides. also its great for shaving when you only have a disposable and left it growing longer than you should have.
Sooo I found this on my grandad belongs its like a little safe, how can I get it open?
I have no idea what I'm doing so I'm looking for guidance in making some decorative knifes out of chrome vanadium spanners for practise,
So how would I go about reworking, heat treating, quenching and caring for blades I plan to use in the kitchen
quench in used motor oil once its past its critical stage, which is like 2000f or when it glows super bright and is no longer magnetic, temper at 400f for an hour or so then air cool
So winter is coming soon and I have a old house with no attic insulation. The attic is quite large and I would like to use it as storage as it is huge. I would then need to use the floor so I cannot put insulation on there. I would put spray foam up but that is expensive. I was thinking of putting up fiberglass batts on the ceiling and walls instead. Is this a bad idea? I have no roof vent and I need insulation. Also for some reason the floor is tongue and groove floorboards so I cannot rip them out. Pic kind of related to what I want to do.
Glasswool wont rot...
But you can use styrofoam too. Its dirt cheap and you can use pu foam as glue. Just get a long enough nail. Put some small pu dots on the styrofoam panel then nail it on the wood with the nail. The nail holds alk ubtil the foam hardens. Also you get a natural small air pocket for extra insulation