How hard would it be to configure an accelerometer and a gyroscope to X device, then have the information gathered relay to an app.
Anyone have experience with this kinda shit? I know how to build the app, I don't know shit about the electronics though.
Pretty easy with arduino, not sure about the gyroscope but I'm sure getting an accelerometer would be easy enough. You could get a bluetooth module, too, and libraries for interfacing with them will be easy to get hold of.
I want to make a fork strap for a pulley - like the 4" u-shaped item in pic.
Anyone know which thickness would be best for strength/bendable?
gonna be touch to make it look pretty, but you can do anything with a breaker bar and a hammer.
I don't know how big that thing is, so it's impossible to tell.
Search for a metal/steel distributor in your area. Call them and ask if they have a scrap pile they sell from. Place near me charges 60 cents a pound of off cuts and scrap. buy a few test pieces and figure out what works.
Because I'm a real fucking dummy, I was trying to superglue something to a small electric motor. I wasn't wearing safety glasses while doing so, or while testing it. I noticed later that my phone's screen, which I had on the desk a fair ways away from the project, was misted with droplets of superglue.
My eyes aren't in pain, and they aren't stuck shut or open, or in one position (as described in some results of a google search). Should I start flushing my eyes anyways? Or will my body naturally take care of whatever small drops got in my eye.
Superglue is not poisonous, even when used internally, acetone is.
Flush with water. If the superglue is irritating the eye, you need to see a doctor. If not, don't worry about it.
I want to turn a baseball bat out of a piece of huckleberry. It's harder and lighter than hickory but the shit never grows straight for longer than a hammer handle's worth.
I was thinking about finding one growing in the open and putting a steam pipe around it but then how would I get the pipe off?
I recently bought my first milling machine and of course some relatively cheap (not ultra cheap) ER32 collet set. When i use a 20mm end mill with it the runout is about 0.01mm. While milling it bangs like crazy and measuring the run out again it shows 0.05-0.06mm. Run out of the taper and collet chuck is below my measuring capabilities.
Should i just dispose it? Am i not torquing it enough?
According to my inch conversions, your runout is pretty small still. I mean, a little more than 2 thou runout is fairly reasonable. What kind of collet closer is it? You should be able to stick a finger indicator into it and spin the spindle by hand to see the runout. The other question is, of course, what does the part look like? Does it taper excessively when side milling a wall? If everything checks out, then why worry?
You'll likely have similar runout with a weldon or whistle flute setup like this. The advantage though is more rigidity, but you need a different holder for every diameter shank.
Anyway, OP, even fancy shrink fit holders still have runout. I mean, the collets may very well be bad. But like I said, if the results are acceptable, I wouldn't loose too much sleep over it.
.01mm is about the best you're going to get period without spending thousands on specialized tooling anyway.
>bangs like crazy
Answer all of these questions. They are all required to give you good answers.
>material you're cutting
>how and by how much you're holding it
>how are you cutting, conventional milling, climb milling, plunging, circular interpolation?
>depth of cut
>step over (how much of the tool diameter is working inside the material)
>what your machine actually is
>how long is the tool total from spindle
>how long is the tool from the collet
I need some help, i have this cable clip that was on the cable. But i had to repair the cable. In order to do that I had to remove the clip. Now I want the clip back on, but I'm unable to because it's really tight. Also there is a sort of spring mechanism in the clip.
Should i try something with extreme heat or cold? And how do i safely heat up rubber?
I want to rig up a desktop drawing board. I'm planning on using a big steel plate for the board itself (for purposes of magnetism) but I need a means to stably prop it up at the right angle.
Something like pic related would be perfect, but I'm fine with a nonadjustable solution too. Just something to prop up an 18x24" plate at a 20~ degree angle.
They make a paint that you can stick magnets to, like for kid's rooms and such. I used it once and the fumes were pretty strong, but you could paint a sheet of plywood outside.
It's not going to be like steel, so as an alternative for stronger magnetic attraction I'd do what the other guy said, get some thin sheet metal and glue or screw it to a sheet of plywood.
I'm in the process of building out a CNC router for my home shop and I had a question for the experts here about rail materials.
I'm thinking of having my machine with a cutting area of about 54" x 42" in order to accommodate larger pieces. That being said, I want to ensure that my rails don't deflect as the gantry moves alongside the sled, especially in the center. Would stainless steel rails be more resistant to deflection than something along the lines of titanium? Would aluminum be fine?
Any advice would be great appreciated!
Pic is intended outcome.
>Would stainless steel rails be more resistant to deflection than something along the lines of titanium?
I don't even think you can _get_ rails that are made of anything but some variant of chromium steel (effectively a type of stainless) without special ordering and paying out the ass. I've seen a few 3D printers that have carbon fiber tubes, but I can't imagine those are cheap, and they're not much more than a foot long, anyway.
There's no reason to use anything other than steel. You need them hardened to resist wear, and the stiffness of the rails themselves is almost irrelevant; they should be fully supported, and affixed to the structure of the machine itself every few inches.
Unless, of course, you're thinking of using unsupported rails. That, however, is flat-out not going to work for the kind of work volume you're looking at. You HAVE to use fully-supported rails for axes that long. The weight of the bearings themselves will throw them out a few thou without any load on them at all.
what are you routing that is that large, cabinet doors?
Like the other guy said, you need to support the rail the entire distance, which you could do with wood if your work does not require great precision.
Hello, some of the finish on my glass table came off and my dad is trying to take it all off now, so it will look good. It's sort of a vynal laminate that came off. The trouble is Dad is having a hard time scraping it off with soap and a spatula. Can anyone advise on how this process can be made easier (pic related)?
>mom asks me to change a light bulb
>lamp housing in front of house has 2 lamps inside
>one controlled with a switch and one controlled with a sensor
>decide to remove one and connect the other one to the switch and the sensor in parallel
>notice the sensor lamp does not turn on, no problem, I'll fix it
>cables are a goddam mess (thanks dad)
>4 cables go to the sensor, it actually needs 3
>cables are spliced multiple times, with different color segments
>bring a spare cable to test continuity to identify which cable is what
>dogs chew my cable when I wasn't looking
>reconnect the lamp, sensor doesn't work
>the sensor detects presence (small led turns on), but does not activate the lamp
>eventually realize that the relay inside is always on (transistor got fucked)
>its not only soldered to the board but also glued because fuck you
>remove it and replace it with a insertion transistor nigger soldered in place
>then I realize I soldered it backwards, thankfully nothing got damaged
TLDR: it took me 6 hours to change a light bulb
so /diy/ is a blog now?