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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 412. page

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I want to cast pic related out of aluminium or bronze. Originally I was going to cut it from foam using a hot wire cutter but I realised that will leave 4 edges. The tolerances need to be close to this model I made. It's 17cm long. What methods of casting should I use? I know about styrofoam and lost wax, how should I accurately transfer this 3d model into wax or styrofoam?

It's not a dildo I promise.
34 posts and 6 images submitted.
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Bro, that's a dildo
>>
Machine your dildo on a lathe faggot.
And if you don't have one, can't get access to one or God forbid don't know how to use one, than you don't deserve to be a man and just go buy one at a sex shop like a faggot you are.
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>>1045187
I don't have access to a lathe.

>>1045185
It's not a dildo, I already promised you.

It's a fucking lever. I like the art deco era ones so much better than today's wimpy DRC-made shit. I'm in the process of prototyping my own 400-volt switches and current shunts.

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For some reason some of the buttons on a tv remote have stopped working. Took it apart and cleaned it, no dice.

Other buttons still work just fine, it's the larger ones in the middle that don't want to work. Tested the working buttons by touching metal, and they functioned as expected....touched the non-working ones, and nothing.

TV manual buttons still work.
23 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1045039
maybe the chip that picks the signal from the buttons is fucked
>>
Confirm no emissions are occurring from the ir led in front.
1: view the led with a camera on a phone or something. Dslr cameras usually have ir filters.
2: probe + and - with multimeter
Using either of these methods, tap the buttons that arent working. If no blink, then:
Try some new batteries. Some ir signals require more powa than others.
If youre a lazyfag like me and dont want to buy new batteries, take a bunch of old batteries, confirm theyve all got atleast 1.4v, and put them in parallel for double the available amperage. If the combined voltage of the two batteries running thr remote still doesnt hit 3v, but some new damn batteries.
If batteries arent your proble, buy contact cleaner of some kind. Officedepot has it for sure. Theyre like 10$ for a 16 oz can.
If still nothing, strip the pcb coating carefully on the non working button button with some 400 grit sandpaper or something medium fine. After you start seeing the reflective metal under the coating, test the remote again with the touch of your finger.
Still nothing? Try licking your finger for improved continuity.
Still nothing? Well shit, try putting your dick in it or something.

I dont fucking know, im a dropout.
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>>1045043
idk, possibly

>>1045045
changed batteries, nothing

there is no signal being sent and there is no apparent reason why it wouldn't

I don't want to have to use a universal one, but otherwise I can change it by hand

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I ripped the magnetron out of a shitty microwave, wat do?
67 posts and 6 images submitted.
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>>1045010
get a job and stop wasting time on 4chan
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>>1045010
Shock yourself and burn your skin from radiation. Oh and don't forget the capacitor so you can stop your heart.
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Build a microwave oven

Fun things to do with fan motor
32 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1044891
shove it up your ass
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>>1044894
this
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>>1044894
Make sure it's still running.
Aim for the prostate

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Just moved to San Francisco, would rather dump $1500/mo into my student loans instead of rent.

Anyone here live in a van/box truck? How much of a hassle is it?
54 posts and 4 images submitted.
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>>1044485

move back where you were. Not sure where people get the idea that california is the dream place to live like its portrayed on TV and movies. its expensive polluted and overcrowded. fuck california. fuck san fran, its full of faggots
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>>1044487
I'm in the tech industry and ride motorcycles every day. I'd try Austin TX or Arizona but I'm not going back to snowy NY.
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>>1044488

well if you are in the tech industry you should me making 6 figures and can easily afford that 1,500 a month rent. stop being such a spoiled brat

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Would it be a good idea to use a car seat as a chair? I'm thinking of buying pic related for 25 euro and putting something under it so it can be used as a comfy chair for my desk. I don't want it to have wheels so it should be easier right?
20 posts and 12 images submitted.
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>>1044285
car seats need to be anchored. as soon as you lean back it wall fall over backwards
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I attached a van captains chair to a moving cart. Been working great for years.
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>>1044288
>car seats need to be anchored.
Bolt it to a base with sufficient width to prevent this.

This would be cool with power seats and a heavy duty 12 V supply. Pic related would be even cooler.

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So what's /diy/'s thoughts on underground houses?
140 posts and 23 images submitted.
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>>1044168
I atleast understand why Shipping containers are desirable. But what possible benefit could you gain from having your house underground.
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>>1044171
Oh fuck off.
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Well insulated, but drainage and dampness are problems.

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sup diy
I have a fence that is about a half mile long through the woods

I want dirt under it the entire length what poison do I use to kill everything now and forever
37 posts and 4 images submitted.
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Salt, lots of it. you may just want to learn to love nature and be its bitch though.
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>>1043974
salt only last a year or two I want it dead forever


motor oil only gets me about a year too
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>>1043952
Nothing.

There is no chemical that isn't going to wash away. Use roundup to kill it all and salt the earth. Make a pass once every other year with a spreader to re-salt.

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Hey /diy/ I'm sure this isn't the right board, but I need help. I have a 1990 Whirlpool electric Dryer (Model# LE6150WSX0) and I'm having problems with it overheating.


Problem: The top, back, and sides, as well as my clothes, are extremely hot. It happened two days ago where I set my timer to 60 minutes, and I checked it at the 40 minute mark to find that the machine had stopped. I then hit the start button again, only for it to immediately beep at me and turn off. For reference I do not overload my machine and always clean the lint trap before each use.


So far I took off the back, cleaned the machine exhaust, the exhaust pipe, and outside exhaust vent (for reference they were not gunked up; in fact they had a light film on them). I then used my multimeter to test the thermal fuse and heating element, but I am confused by the results. The thermal fuse started at 1 for a couple of seconds, then jumped to the 10s, followed by 100s, then back to 1. This would happen every couple of seconds. Yes I did set my multimeter to 200 ohms of resistance (lowest setting). For the heating element, it took a few seconds for the numbers to calm down and it was hovering at 11.3/11.4. Any other parts I should test?


Also, I noticed the heating element case has a silver finish, but in the middle where the heating coils rest, the case is a burnt white (The photo will be in the next post). I'm thinking somehow the coils are grounding to the case, causing the whole machine to become red hot.


Any and all advice is appreciated. If you need photos or more info I'll gladly provide.


Thanks so much guys.
30 posts and 4 images submitted.
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Here's the photo of the heating element case. Notice how in the middle it has a white appearance as opposed to the silver finish elsewhere on it.
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>>1043507
>but in the middle where the heating coils rest, the case is a burnt white

wow looks like the zinc is burning off the galvanized steel
>>
This is the right board, OP, but it's probably gonna take awhile for someone with dryer chops to come along to help you. It's a slow board. I've found that almost always someone comes-along who can help, but it might take days. If that's the case with you, bump once a day or so (slow board) and hope for the best. If you're lucky someone will come-along sooner than later!

I don't know clit about these things so I can't help, but best of luck!

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I have space under my bathtub that is kinda big. I was wondering if I could fill it with expanding foam to insulate it better. I have heard to do this it is imperative that you fill the tub full of water before doing this as it sets it better. The foam can also if you are not careful, lift the tub off the ground and crack it. Would it be a bad idea all together to do it? I live in northern USA so it gets pretty cold here in the winter.
13 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1042928
Air is a great insulator which is what makes expanding foam a good insulator, it's full of air bubbles.
If you can plug any draughty gaps it should be about the same.
If you want the same effect without the worry throw in some bubble wrap or packing peanuts I guess if you like mess
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>>1042932
As he said stop the drafts

I think stuffing insulation around the tub would work great and it wouldn't be as permanent as using foam. If your tub cracked or need to be resurfaced i feel the foam would be a serious pain in the future.
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>>1042928
Building code states that bathtubs are to be anchored with either foam or acoustical mud.

I use foam, because it comes in a can and isn't a sloppy mess like the acoustical mud.
Typically takes 3 cans, get the kind that says "Window and Door"

Fill tub with cold water, inject foam where the bottom of the tub is closest to the floor

Sides of the tub get packed with mineral wool insulation

Enjoy a bath that doesn't get cold or transmit sound like a drum.

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Come watch me rebuild this piece of crap bench. It was left behind by the previous owners of my house and I finally got around to it. This was the only picture I could find anywhere of what it initially looked like but you get the idea.
114 posts and 84 images submitted.
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>>1042316
I pressure washed the bench to see what I'm working with. The wood is in awful shape and will need to be replaced. The planks are pretty thin so I'll make thicker pieces when it's time. The cast iron is all rusted and there's some mismatched hardware.
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>>1042320
Side angle. Pretty rough stuff but it's fixable.
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>>1042323
Some missing hardware here and there

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I made another aku aku mask, this time with feathers.
319 posts and 115 images submitted.
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>>1032363
Also made this tray
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>>1032363
if you did that from scratch that is amazing work
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>>1032384
I did, thank you!
Im currently making 12 at the same time, while taking pictures to show /diy/ how i make them since there seems to be a lot of interest in how to make these.

Will post the how to in this thread once its done

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Found this blender somebody threw away. I was checking continuity on a bunch of components since it does not turn on. Found the fuse is broken. Does it mean the appliance is broken somewhere elsetoo? Also, what kind of fuse should I replace it with? I live in Europe so 220v mains.

Pic related, black thing in the bottom right is the broken fuse
10 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1048970
Not necessarily. Replace the fuse and try.

Google "digikey" and order a fuse with the same name/markings from them. Get a cheapo $10 soldering iron if you need it.
>>
>220V
No.
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>>1048973
No manufacturar is specified, it just says T1.6AL250V
What does it mean?
>>1048987
Autism

Hello /diy/. What exactly goes on under the hood of computer software designed to simulate electrical machinery? I'm guessing it has something to do with calculating the magnetic field and moment at millions of infinitesimal volumes, then somehow deriving a force field, and then finally perhaps the torque on some central shaft?

But I really am clueless. Suppose that my only initial variables are the permeability of my materials, the geometry of the rotor and stator, and the current and voltage I wish to apply to the windings. How do I go from that to actually knowing the torque the motor can deliver? And what about the windings? Do these complex items actually get modeled according to their true geometry, or is there usually some kind of simplification like in pic related?

Thanks to anyone who answers. I just need some idea of the learning gap between knowing a bit about electrodynamic theory and actually designing my own motors.
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1048882
Time to go to university and do a PhD my friend.
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>>1048882
>something to do with calculating the magnetic field and moment at millions of infinitesimal volumes
what you do is generate a 'mesh' which is loads of polygons. for each polygon you then calculate the fields. there are algorithms for this you can look up but i can't remember the names its been a few years. then you look at whatever output you want say in your case the torque but thats quite specific and complicated to work out, usually the target is the current or voltage in some place.
then you make the mesh smaller and you start again. then you compare the results, if they are very different you make the mesh smaller and start again. and over and over and over and over until the difference between runs isn't that much, your 'delta' is small enough, and you can then say ok my mesh is pretty much small enough it won't get any better, i am pretty sure thats how the fields will behave.
I'm pretty sure you can get an old copy of maxwell (before it was ansys maxwell?) field simulator (in 2d though not 3d) for free because the licensing was a joke if you want to play around.
but i would say don't bother, the software will cost an arm and a leg and its probably all subscription based now anyway and its super shit and buggy and picky about how you define your surfaces and shit, you can draw things in 3d and get totally different results based on the order you draw them even though the final model is exactly the same. the longest simulation i ran took 2 months to run on 8 i7 cores and used over 256gb ram, it had to swap out into hdd space. the model was only about 20cm3.
you can get a good enough idea just by running the basic current/force equations and simplifying everything down.
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>>1048882
>electrodynamic theory and actually designing my own motors.

first of all, it's generally referred to as electromagnetics.

secondly, why do you want to design a motor?

finally, it is very expensive to make one custom motor. You will have to pay for tooling to make the laminations for the stator, and you will have to machine the stator and rotor to precise diameters to have a decent motor, and you will probably need custom shaped magnets for the rotor.

and as for that simulation crap. you have weeks if not months of studying motor design before you should even think about a 3-d magnetic simulation. Learn how to place windings and how to energize them. If you are just going to make a crude motor you are wasting your time in several ways. If you are going to make a sophisticated motor, you need to learn many concepts before you have anything to simulate.

I designed motors for about a decade, for satellites, the shuttle, and the space station. Once you have experience, you will have people from all over trying to hire you, because very few people in the world actually design motors from scratch. The flip side of this is that rarely will anyone want to teach you these skills.

To put this in perspective, you can make your own transistors at home far easier than you can make any decent motor.

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What kind of jobs could one get with a 2 year mechanical engineering tech technician degree? Should I shoot for more? Attend the 3 year coop? Go to university after?
I'd like to make 80k+ (Canadian) and to do that, will I basically need a unique idea? Invent something?
How likely is it that I could land a firearms related job (if I moved to the USA)?
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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We have some of those at my company. They do assembly work. I don't mean the kind of assembly done by Chinese slave labor. When there's a new product being put together for the first time you need a skilled competent person to do it and write reports. R&D engineers are pretty bad at writing instructions and sometimes problems aren't noticed at the CAD stage.

I think some of the technicians who have been with the company for 20+ years are making $80k. That's not a realistic expectation for a technician right out of school unless you want to move to Fort Mac (and own a time machine). Most Canadians with 4 year engineering degrees don't even make that until they've worked for a successful company for a few years.
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>>1048862
>mechanical engineer technician
they add the word engineer to everything these days. here in australia they call it a certificate 2 in engineering which is a 6 month course in which you learn to use a drill and hand saw properly which from there you can start an apprenticeship in any of the mechanical trades like welding or locksmithing or fabrication. bear in mind you will have a qualification that doesnt actually qualify you to do anything. you'd be better off learning to restore an old car desu, practical results assembling an engine, panel beating ect.


CAD or a foreman basically. its enough to be able to convey information between the retards and engineers but not even close to a 4-year internationally recognized degree.
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>>1048870
>>1048932
So should I look in to going to university instead if my monetary goals are already so high?
I've been working as a contractor's apprentice for a few years so anything to do with handtools I know very well.
And I'm younger so 'muh generation' technology grasp is very good, I don't want to waste a few years of my life learning about programs like CAD that I could have picked up after a bit of YouTube research and a torrent.

www.niagaracollege.ca/technology-studies/programs/mechanical-engineering-technician/courses/
These would be my courses under the program in question

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