Dryer Appliance Repair Help

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Here's the photo of the heating element case. Notice how in the middle it has a white appearance as opposed to the silver finish elsewhere on it.

>>1043507
>but in the middle where the heating coils rest, the case is a burnt white

wow looks like the zinc is burning off the galvanized steel

This is the right board, OP, but it's probably gonna take awhile for someone with dryer chops to come along to help you. It's a slow board. I've found that almost always someone comes-along who can help, but it might take days. If that's the case with you, bump once a day or so (slow board) and hope for the best. If you're lucky someone will come-along sooner than later!

I don't know clit about these things so I can't help, but best of luck!

>>1043510
I'm just a home owner who fixes my own problems, so take my advice with salt.

I would just try to replace the heating element. Unplug (duh) and remove the cover to see if your grounding theory is correct.
Price check the part by calling Sears appliance, and if the part is more than half the price of a new dryer, you might want to think about just replacing it.

I had similar problems once, and replacing the element worked, and was relatively simple. PLEASE know that I'm just sharing my experience, and your problem might be different.
I'd talk to (research) a repairman/electrician about the multi meter readings. It could possibly be normal.
Good luck anon.

>>1043519
I too was shocked at the discoloration of the case

>>1043521
Thanks anon, I understand it may take time and I am OK with that. I plan on bumping this thread in hopes someone with experience can help.

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>>1043523
Hi anon. here's a photo of the heating element. I do not see and splits or cracks in the coils, so I am not sure how the element is grounding to the case, if at all. However, if you look at the middle, it kinds has that burnt white look too (I know it's hard to see from the photo).


Repairclinic.com has this part for 19.99, so I think I'll go ahead and get it. Also, I've been researching and talking to several repairmen all day (trying to pick their brains for info) and have learned a lot so far.

>>1043507

Make sure the fan is actually blowing as much as it should be.

>check the exhaust while it's running.

The fan 'could' have a stripped hub or other problem and not be moving the air properly.

>>1043538
Hey, I can't check that now (it's 10:30 pm here) but I'll do it tomorrow morning and report back with results. I'll plug it back in and run it with the back off (read: no exhaust tube).


Dumb question, but how strong should the airflow be coming out of the exhaust on the back of the machine? Can you give me an analogy

>>1043507
I would look at the thermostats, it appears that the operating temperature one located on exhaust is welded closed and the over temp one located on heating element case is opening at high temp limit.

>>1043565
The snap disk thermostats are normally closed and open at a preset temperature.

I've been buying $50 dryers off craigslist for 15 years now. I've had 4. Go scrap that dryer and get a working one for $50 and enjoy for 3 or 4 years.

>>1043543
It's pretty strong, like a box fan on high and routed into a tube.

I had a similar problem, the dryer wouldn't go but I could see a glow coming from grate in the back of the tumbler wall. The element was grounding to the vent, so I replaced it along with the thermostat next to it, and the thermal fuse.

>>1043507

Protip

Over time a film builds on lint trap. Scrup thet bitch in the sink.

Test to see if it holds water before tho.

If it does, thats a big contributing factor.

Comlanies wont tell u cause then your chit breaks and u gotta buy another. And the expensive ones get a repair man sent out to make up bullshit and change the lint trap with a new one.


Gl

>>1043565
>>1043565

Hey Dave, checking the thermostats is something I planned to do. I assume I'll need to use my multimeter to check for continuity, yes?


>>1043575
That is an option I have considered, but again this dryer is from 1990 and this is the first time it has given me trouble. I haven't become fed up enough with it yet for to go that route. Also, I do not know how justified this is, but I am a fan of the older machines (read: no computerized parts) for their simplicity. Now how simple this repair will be is questionable, but it's providing me a good learning experience.
>>1043576
Alright, thanks for the analogy, I'll check it soon.


>>1043615
Hey, I usually scrub my lint trap every season (4 times a year) so I'm not totally convinced that is the issue, but I will double check it. Thanks.

Possible issues with this, and it can be multiple problems cpontributing

thermostat that controls heating temp has failed, keeping them from maintaining safe temp. possible also the high limit safety has failed which would disconnect the elements when they get too hot. so if both fail your elements will keep heating. only thing keeping them from busrsting into flames is the airflow. if your fan fails... expect a fire.

you should check the thermosttat and high limit safety devices, it IS possible the element itself has broken down and is overheating, and that overheat could have burned out the high limit safety and caused it to stay on...

like I said it could be one issue, or several contributing to the problem.

also as other have stated check airflow, and clean the filter screen thoroughly. eliminate the basic possibilities then start checking the other areas

Hey guys, OP here. So today I tested my lint cleaner and it is not clogged; I also ran the machine without the exhaust tubing on it and there was moderate air coming out of it. I'd say it was similar to having a fan setting of medium going. I also took the heating coil, thermostat, high limit thermostat, thermal cut off, and thermal fuse to a local guy to do multimeter tests. He said the parts were good, but in the case of an overheating problem, to replace the thermostats. So I'll go ahead and order those replacement parts. I'll post back here once they arrive and I test the machine again with the new parts.

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>>1044047

every time i've seen a dryer cook itself it's been the front drum seal failing, causing hot air and lint to recirculate through the motor and element instead of going through the trap and out the vent.

Hey guys, OP here again with another update.


I went ahead and checked for lint build up on the blower fan, in the lint housing, and on that little exit grate for the hot air to escape (between the inside of the drum and the start of the lint housing). There was quite the build up, but now I have another problem - I can't get the lint housing out of the machine. Look at my photos and you will see there is a panel where the power cord comes out of that is preventing me from completely taking it out. As far as you guys know, is there a way I can? I've only been able to barely clean the bottom of the lint housing and the fan because it is in my way. I've tried taking it out from the top and bottom, but with no luck. Can it even come out? Also, do you see that little foam/sponge strip that is between the lint housing and the grate to the inside of the drum? Does that look like it needs to be replaced? Or can I just keep plucking the lint off of it?


Once I am able to clean those parts I will go ahead and run the machine again to see if I have improved air flow.


Imgur album link: http://imgur.com/a/eRlX9

There Are two phillips Screws under the lint filter itself after you pull it out holding the housing in.. it should be removed from the back kinda tough but trust me it comes out that way.

Plenty of homeowner appliance experience unfortunately no electric gas dryer experience however I've had of help from
http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/-x6c653631353077737830/Le6150wsx0-Parts

last issue with the Maytag Neptune POS was the washer drain failed, ordered the part Friday at 6pm and was at my door Saturday 11am (standard shipping rates)

>>1043507

Are you sure you have the right Model Number. Whirlpool's website can't find it.

If you have the right Model number, you can usually find a schematic on the web as well as a repair manual.

Also I have a similar model (but gas) and it has the schematic pasted inside of the lower access panel.

From your description, my vote would be the thermostat.

>>1044215
Check this op. Had this issue with an old 90s dryer, it cooked the motor and a set of thermal overloads before I figured out what I was looking for. Its a cheap replacement as well.

If you have a compressor, give it a blow out with that. An RCD (GFCI) socket, portable or otherwise, will eliminate ground faults as a cause

Hey guys, OP here again.

>>1045915
I removed all the screws that held the housing in place, but I'll go back and re-check in case I missed. Not calling you a liar, but this thing REALLY doesn't want to come out. I did buy vent cleaning bushes and was able to free up more of the stuck lint, so it's cleaner now. I looked into it some more and apparently I need to remove the drum to remove the housing.


>>1046007
Yes I am 100% positive I have the right model number. Again, according to the sticker on the machine it is LE6150WSX0. For reference, I was able to find out the machine was made in 1990. I did find a repair manual, but people are charging for it :/


>>1046021
Alright, I'll go back and double check it.


>>1046038
I didn't blow air thru it; instead I bought scrub brushes and I was able to release more of the lint. I don't have that socket readily available - a relative does tho. He won't be able to help till this weekend though :/


>>1046006
Yeah the parts came in, but I gotta be honest, I don't know the proper orientation of how they are to be fitted (I didn't write down which way the letters are to face, i.e. left or right) so now I'm afraid to plug them in because if they are wrong I think they'd get destroyed.


So in the mean time I've been using another dryer (in our house we have 2 washers and 2 dryers). I also think I caused more damage - There is a squeaking noise coming from the machine when I run it. I think I damaged the felt-like belt that is on the back of the drum that goes around it (The black thing in this photo http://imgur.com/a/slY6Z) by trying to pull the housing up through the top. Or I messed up a bearing somewhere on the blower fan. I don't know though - If it doesn't cause catastrophic damage to the machine I can live with it.


For now I think I'll tinker with the machine at another time; probably during the weekend. I've got some family cars to work on.


Thanks again everybody.

>>1043507

Did you see this? Or is it you too?

https://www.reddit.com/r/appliancerepair/comments/4zdfgc/whirpool_electric_dryer_model_le6150xsw0_repair/

What about Dyson?

Guess I'll post this here rather than make a new thread: I have a Maytag Model #: MED5570TQ0. Any setting other than "Air Fluff" makes the motherfucker run stupid hot. I've already found the cycling thermostat that I might need, but I'd just like to know what else to check first (and maybe a schematic so I know what I'm looking at.)

Gotta work for the week, but I'm trying to find time to dig into it.

>>1050096
>what else to check first
Read this thread - it's full of things to check.

>and maybe a schematic
There may be a schematic glued to the inside of a panel (look near the timer)