Hey /diy/ i went out and bought a nitro powered rc plane second hand but practically new. Ive got nearly no experience in the technology behind todays world of rc, problem is I do not know what transmitter to buy to bind it with. the reciever is a spektrum and ive been told any transmitter eith dsm should be okay but I cant seem to find one thats not in the hundreds also thats mode 2. I wouldnt mind paying alot for a transmitter so long as it will definitly bind with it, i just want confirmation first. Probably not the place to post this but I thought id give it a shot.
>>1050081
>starting on nitro
hoo boy
Okay for parts and a transmistter go to hobbyking. You can buy one with a new receiver if you have to, it will be less than $100.
But before any of that shit, go get simulator and practice flying and crashing
An electric foame is a much better starter plane because it's easy to fix when you crash it.
>>1050089
Yeah sorry i shouldve said ive got a bit of experience flying foam planes just saw this for a really good price and been a trainer i thought it was perfect. Didnt think of getting a new reciever also, I'd feel alot better going through hobbyking, thanks for the help
Getting myself a P4AC 4.1 and a GeForce 1060.
But I don't want it to just lay open on the desk so I'm pondering on a way to find a fitting case or create one.
The size should be around 150*150 *40-50 mm (W*H*D), made out of aluminium.
With that I can fit the gpu, a psu and strong enough fans.
Any suggestions?
>>1049999
Why not just use a mini-itx case?
>>1050199
Because they aren't small and barebone enough (sense I have to heavily modify it)
>>1049999
>Any suggestions?
If you want to work in Al sheet, get a propane torch and some Al brazing rods.
Practice a bit, like solider work on wires it's as much finesse as it is formula.
There's no way to join Al plates into a box that's as aesthetically pleasing and also strong. It also can be cheaper than using a bunch of mechanical fasteners.
You could also bend the Al, but, you'll need to continually annul the metal as you bend it, which for Al is a rather thorny process.
Casting is also an option. If you go for this, green sand casting is e-z (and cheep) to get into.
But, backyard Al casting is difficult due to H2 solubility issues-- into it....
Brass and Cu casting, while demanding higher heats is more easy to get a GOOD finish piece for your bother.
Acrylic and glass are also options to consider, unless it need be Aluminum for some reason presently unclear to me.
Howdy degenerates. The previous owner of my house laid pavers (poorly) and filled in the gaps with mortar. It's now cracking and flaking off, generally looking like shit.
What should I use to fill in the gaps when I break away the crumbling mortar? I want it to last for at least 3 years b/c I'm renting here until then.
Pic obviously related.
>>1049871
>renting
Why the fuck are you doing free work for your landlord?
Polymeric sand is the latest craze.
>>1049875
Yeah, good question. He told me he'd pay for materials if I want to fix it. I've got a good amount of free time on my hands and would like to learn some new skills. Also, if I have to be here for the next 3 years, would rather it look nice.
>>1049871
pebbles or gravel
Sup DIY,
having a litter problem and was hoping someone with some experience could give me a hand.
The other day my wife noticed water spots above the sink in my downstairs bathroom. Peeling back the drywall I found pic related, which is the drain pipe for my upstairs shower. I've run the shower on both hot and cold for a while and haven't see any leaks or things like that.
This leads me to believe that it may be condensation. I don't know how to take care of this as there is no room for insulating the pipes with that foam stuff. If anyone has an idea, please let me know.
Tl;Dr upstairs shower drain sweating into downstairs ceiling, what do?
maybe leave a gap in the wall so that it can ventilate
>>1049782
I don't follow. Are you saying that when I put the new ceiling up to cut around the pipe, or literally leave a gap between the ceiling and the wall?
Both of those sound like they'd look gross but I'm probably misunderstanding you.
>>1049777
Bring a section of the wall 5 cm forward?
I live in the American Southeast, where red clay soils make up most of the soil in the area. Wikipedia says the red color comes from a natural abundance of iron oxide within the soil. Could I realistically find concentrations of iron ore around here? Has anyone here ever into prospecting?
i doubt you will find any significant amount, but on primitive technology he took similar looking clay and was able to smelt and forge a little iron
>>1049754
Thanks. I'll definitely take a closer look at that.
Look for this stuff https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bog_iron
Got water damage in my laptop, bought a new motherboard, because I switched it on to soon. Now I disassembled the laptop and found corrosion and a burn mark on the video card(see pic). What should I do? Clean it with isoprop? Are nylon brushes ESD save or should I use horsehair?
I'd give 85% it's fucked up beyond repair
>>1049735
The video card is toast. Sorry bud. Look at the chip (CH) just north of the burn. It's discolored. Most likely from the chip annealing due to heat from a failure.
Now some systems can run without a dedicated video card. Mainly those with i3-5-7, if you assemble without the card it may work. However assembling with the card is a 99% chance of breaking the new Motherboard.
If there is a burn mark on any contact NEVER PLUG IT IN!
>>1049735
post a proper picture, if you cant even take a picture then you dont deserve any help
Found a water cooker (solis 585) with many temperature and time regulating options. Its not turning on (no led or LCD). I was sondering what would be the most likely part that is ging to break. Any ideas?
Pics related
Maybe this 24V thing, dunno how to test it got a multimeter though
>>1049662
>why
why in fuck does a watercooker need an LCD?
>>1049668
cuz current year
I have been gifted a 1996 Yamaha Waveventure 1100 from a family member. It has been sitting, uncovered, for 10 years in a field. It was winterized before it sat, I am told. Upon a visual inspection, nothing seemed off, although I have not bothered to turn the engine over yet.
Family member says it SHOULD run if I put a new battery in it. I want it to run, and I hope it does, but what process should I take to insure success and reliability for the future to come?
I do have experience with 2-stroke engines, but not much and nothing over 50cc scooter engines.
Pic Related
If you can, find a manual of the internals. Then change the battery and see if it runs. If it doesn't, take it apart and clean everything and fix loose wires, etc. If it still doesn't run, try and troubleshoot the individual components.
I have no experience with waverunners, but this is my go-to solution for fixing anything I don't have experience with.
>>1049581
Drain the tank obviously.
If it was winterized it should have been.
Throw some fresh premix in it, jumper cables and see if it starts. If you want to be anal pull the coil wires and crank it for for awhile. 5 second bursts, one minute.
>>1049581
If that is pic related a re grease on the trailer wheel bearings is in order after sitting there for a decade.
>>1049615
>pull the coil wires
I'd just pull the plugs out and ground the spark plug leads so they are not running into an open circuit. Probably good to get some fresh fuel and oil through the thing as the old 2 stroke oil leftovers will have gone thick. Drop a little fuel oil mix down the plug holes and let it sit for 5 before cranking.
hey /diy/, I think i know what i want to do with my life
I wanna be that old guy who can fix anything and build anything in his shop in his garage. Mostly carpentry and woodworking stuff I'm interested. I also wanna go to Antarctica as a carpenter. It's legit, watch Antarctica: A Year on Ice and the Encounters at the End of the World. There's carpentry jobs there.
anyway, I'm young as shit and only decided this recently. Hopefully I can get into this carpentry class I'm trying to take. Any advice to learn more and further a career along those line? I've mostly been watching youtube videos and stuff while I wait on word from the class
pic unrelated, just a dope ass desk
Practice, practice, practice. Find small projects to do to familiarize yourself with tools and materials. Make a box, make a simple stool. Classes are great- I hope you get into that one, too.
>>1049435
Thanks. I really like this board, didnt know there was anything good left on 4chan
>>1049429
The problem is that you need years of experience and training in different fields.
I can run a CNC router, rebuild an engine without a manual, build an a frame house on my own- but that took decades of bouncing from one job to another (whenever I got bored or mastered what I did there).
I have a Crimson Trace LG-431 laser. I'd like to install a small forward facing white-light LED in addition to the laser. It seems that this is possible using the same pressure switch, battery and driver used for the laser/photodiode.
Right now, it seems plausible that I could install the LED in series or parallel with the laser diode, if the operating voltages are similar enough to get reliable operation.
However, I have poor intuition about such matters, and I understand that even minor and transiently exceeding the voltage and current limitations of diodes can damage them (to the point where a multi-meter could fry the device).
I've got the housing opened (pic related), and I'm ready to begin interrogating the circuit to figure out how much voltage I have to work with reaching the laser diode, and whether swapping out different cells will alter the voltage reaching the diode (starting by lowering available voltage from the battery compartment).
Does anyone with a better understanding of these topics have a better idea?
More technical specifications to follow.
Crimson Trace LG-431:
Battery:
Manufacturer Recommended:
1x 1/3N Lithium (3V, 11.6x10.8mm)
Or 2x 357 (SR44) Silver Oxide Battery (3V total, 11.6x5.4mm)
Possible alternatives to alter available voltage:
SR54: 11.6x3.1, 1.55V (4.65V Max)
SR55: 11.6x2.1, 1.55V (7.75V Max)
365/366,S16,608: 11.6x1.65, 1.55v (9.3V Max)
The sky is the limit for available voltage, but the device components have voltage and current limits.
Laser:
Output: ~5mW
Wavelength: ~650nM
Operating Voltage: Unknown, need to check.
Constant Voltage Driver: Unknown, need to check.
Switch:
Pressure Operated, connected to Laser housing via PCB ribbon. Not amenable to modification outside of housing.
Patents:
http://www.crimsontrace.com/company/patents
https://www.google.com/patents/US8256154
LEDs usually are fed from a current source since they operate roughly at constant voltage over a wide range of currents. The color of the LED is proportional to the voltage drop; higher energy photons (blue, and "white" [which are actually just blue LEDs with a phosphor that absorbs blue and phosphoresces yellow] LEDs) means higher voltage drop than low energy (red LEDs). So if you just stick one in parallel, unless it's exactly the same type of LED as the laser (which it won't be) only one of them will light up, the one with the lower voltage drop, as all the current will be shunted through it. Even if you figure out some way to balance it, since the laser diode is very likely fed a constant current, using the same circuit for both diodes means the original current will now be shared between both, so neither will operate correctly. Laser diodes in particular will now "lase" unless they have a minimum amount of current passing through. Best thing to do would be to add some circuitry to power the white LED, which only activates when the laser turns on.
>>1049349
Thanks for the reply. The board does have a potentiometer, which I think may allow me to increase the amount of current available after adding the LED, if that won't fry something else.
But that does still leave the problem of the mismatched voltage drops. It seems that laser diodes often have a voltage drop of ~1.5-2V. The only LEDs that operate with a similar voltage drop are non-high intensity red (~1.7V) and maybe high-efficiency, low-current, high intensity red (~1.9V).
On the upside the operating currents for both the laser and LEDs are both ~15-20mA.
It seems like the project could still work, albeit with a lower-intensity red LED. I just need to decide how to proceed with testing and adjusting the device to avoid frying it.
The safest bet might seem to be to very carefully slice/strip s section of the positive and negative and install a red LED and see if I can get simultaneous operation without any adjustments.
So I broke a lot in my cars engine a couple months ago. Long story short, the camshafts have a lot of wear, my pistons are chipped, and valves are broken. I have 2 camshafts, and 6 pistons, and was looking to make something cool. I was thinking a lamp with the pistons as feet, and the cams as the shaft. Any ideas?
How are you planning on running the wires?
>>1049328
That's the part I just cant work out. The shafts aren't hollow, so possibly just wrapping it around or something.
>>1049334
>That's the part I just cant work out.
You have two camshafts - one hot and one neutral.
I found this today. There are three options:
1. Salvage the metalwork and trash the rest.
2. Redo the inside, clean it up and use it.
3. Use it in one of my photoshoots (risk ruining it)
4. Sell it.
What would you do? More pics incoming.
It has some really cool details.
I can't figure out how old it is or if would be worth anything. Is there still a market for trunks? I've seen them go from $80-$300.
>>1049227
Im looking for an old steamer like this one. Are you in the US south east?
>Tfw your wife puts the end-grain cotton board in the dishwasher
Somehow it's still okay
Cutting board.
Ejgushodjgbtksb
>>1049073
>not beating your wife
>>1049093
I don't recommend DIYing that, because if you fuck up, your insurance will tell you to piss off. Hire a professional so you don't have to worry.
I am trying to do some crafts with epoxy, but I'm not finding any help for my specific project; it's got some unique criteria. I also don't know the difference between epoxy's.
I need an epoxy that can cast in thick globs relatively quickly, so my assuming is that I can add more catalyst than needed.
lets assume that I don't care about cracking, can this be done with any epoxy or is there a certain kind I should use?
It doesn't need to be crystal clear
>>1049010
Need more info.
More catalyst will cause faster curing, but also more heat. You can easily melt plastic that you're using fr a mold.
castolite
>>1049021
It's okay if there's extra heat, the cast isn't for aesthetics but it does need to be clear.
I'll try to make a metal mold if plastic will melt, that's good to know.
but can it cure in a sealed container, maybe with only a few holes in it or is exposure important?
Hey
I need help building a pyrography tool from a pc power supply. basically i need to control the 5v 20A output. Is this possible?
I don't have experience with making a pyro-pen, but you want to look at the specifications and make sure pic related is satisfied
also, unless you already have a PSU, you'd be better off buying a lab power supply, because PC power supplies require you to 'turn on' the power supply using a jumper on the ATX pins
Yep already have the psu (it was free) and it has a maximum of 30A output on the +5v line so 20A should be fine, the main problem im having is how to control the voltage so i can make it output 0-5V but have that controller handle the 20 amps
>>1048804
All you really need is a dual pole switch to switch the ac live and ground the PSU's on pin.