Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 425. page

>>1041144
i'm not going to draw it for you because i don't understand the end vs field thing but basically if you imagine the joists run vertically on 2 ft centers this means center to center they are 2 feet apart, basically there is a joist every two feet. the point of nails is to hold the board to the joists so the nails have to go into the joists.

therefore the joists are in columns 2ft apart then the nails are in columns 2ft apart. the only variable left is the vertical (height) between each nail but like i said i don't get the end/filed/double nail bullshit.

>>1041144
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=9FmA7oTKyBMC&pg=PA44&lpg=PA44&dq=nail+end+in+field+double+nail&source=bl&ots=hrnnUtbJ51&sig=LoYfB4C6AQTsv75vuoACDTsqqn8&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiS8u66u87OAhXpCsAKHc9rBPIQ6AEINDAH#v=onepage&q=nail%20end%20in%20field%20double%20nail&f=false
here is a picture that shows the 2ft horizontal space vs the 7inch vertical spacing in fig. 5-21 and the double nail n the field at 12" centers vs single nail at the edges of the board in fig. 5-22

"I would not use any nails, I would use drywall screws."

>>1041015
>what am I looking at if I try to demo it myself
A lot of unnecessary collateral damage.

Study before fucking shit up, and don't go apeshit destroying everything at once. I mean exhaustively study and assume nothing.

Ya gotta learn demo somewhere. Go slow and don't go nuts with sledgehammers. Know what's behind walls etc.

Have a plan to reduce repeated handling of debris since that's work. Tarps protect floors if you've any which need protecting.

If far out in country you can burn wooden debris and bury solids if you've plenty of acreage. Otherwise, know where yer county landfill is and its operating hours.

Get the plaster/ sheetrock compound tested for asbestos before buying, often added in this era:(

>>1040986
some kind of sealant maybe

File: KEK.jpg (9KB, 233x205px) Image search: [Google]

9KB, 233x205px

>>1040986
i wonder why they didnt ask questions

>>1040986
u can always try to peal it off, maybe you'll have 2 controllers working.

File: image.jpg (134KB, 795x474px) Image search: [Google]

134KB, 795x474px

>>1040973

Table Saw sled.

>>1040978
Interdasting.
I've done finger joints with a table router,
I'm sure the table saw would go much quicker.
But what's up with your pic?
No jig, just free-hand?

>>1040980
>Table Saw sled.
I do have a chop-saw for cross-cuts, so the sled is a low priority, but yeah, it's on the list.
I also should make a thinner push-stick, and a zero-clearence plate.

File: image.jpg (239KB, 3341x1056px) Image search: [Google]

239KB, 3341x1056px

>the correct tool for the job
/thread

>>1040970
'aint workin' senpai

>>1040968
You can try to use it pre-emptively against greasy stuff, but opening a plug made of shit and paper? No.

>>1040904
It is not a choice but a product of the preferred way of sharpening, if you sharpen by hand using stones or whatever, which is the method of producing the sharpest edge the quickest, the natural motions of the hand produces a naturally convex bevel as a by product, not really by choice.

Convex bevel all the way.
Not only is it faster and easier to sharpen that way, but I also found it makes it easier to gouge out huge chunks of wood with it when you need to.

Concave bevel

File: image.jpg (323KB, 1242x1242px) Image search: [Google]

323KB, 1242x1242px

>>1040812
Don't forget the ginger beer

File: image.jpg (243KB, 1242x1242px) Image search: [Google]

243KB, 1242x1242px

>>1040813
Get about 5 decent sized mint leaves and break them into pieces. I usually split them into thirds. It's gotta be big enough that you won't swallow it when drinking, but small enough to extract a lot of mint.

File: image.jpg (247KB, 1242x1242px) Image search: [Google]

247KB, 1242x1242px

>>1040815
Cut your lemon and add two decent sized slices. Squeeze out all of the juice then drop them in. These are a little small but it's what I had leftover in the fridge from last time so eh

>>1040789
Use the printer to fix something that is broken. For example, make a new part to replace a broken plastic part. Or make spares of a plastic part which may break, or has in the past.

Print a part to fix a problem - a set of clips or 'holder' for cables at your computer.

A stand for your phone, with or without charging cable integrated.

Do you have any hobbies that you could print parts for - WarHammer figures, custom mount for a camera on your bike/helmet,

Interlocking parts, just for the learning experience - chains, swivel joints, wheels, gears etc.

A Spirograph clone.

Puzzle pieces - Pentominoes etc.

A holder for phone charging cable that attaches to the powerpoint, used to neaten up cables.

Do you have brothers or sisters, friends etc that have hobbies you could print for?

>>1040789

Print parts so you can make your own

Or go snoop around for designs and things to print. Thingverse & things like that could be a start.

derailier hangers for mountain bikes...

or don't! Thats my thing.

Yes, fiberglass body filler will be strong enough

This is a high stress area.
Literally part of the integrity of the window frame portion of your door.
Also adds in strength to passenger compartment during rollover.

For a proper repair, door needs to be stripped of surrounding components and welded.

>>1040861
It'll crack within a month

Ugly

Do you have any pictures of that milf's spread asshole?

Try to look less autistic when you bang that balloon you fucking NEET

>>1040742
Shorting the thermal fuse should leave the transformer as good as new, you probably fucked up and shorted live and neutral somehow, maybe it shorted through the body or maybe you shorted something that wasn't the thermal fuse, who knows. There shouldn't be any problem when shorting the fuse with lead solder, although the resistance is higher than copper is still negligible for such a short connetion.

>>1040742
>>1040745
Or the original fuse blew for a reason (because there is a short somewhere else) and OP created the equivalent of another fuse made out of solder, which promptly blew for the same reason the first one did.

>>1040748
>fuse blew for a reason

Realistically, aside from OP fucking up, this is the only reason a solder jumper would fail like this. Replacing a fuse with solder is a fairly common ghetto-rig solution in PCB repair, and works fine as long as the fuse itself was faulty.

File: shopping[1].jpg (12KB, 450x450px) Image search: [Google]

12KB, 450x450px

pic related can be found at wallmart and other crappy stores... keep your electronics charged... if you overload the circuit and pop the breaker you probably won't be able to get to whatever panel it's in to reset it...

>>1040734

Thanks was looking at one of these, but my laptop charger needs the extra prong and none of those things are available in my area. (walmart, lowes, home depot, nothing has them believe it or not)

>>1040735
you can rip the ground prong out of the laptop cord.. or use an adapter... and you need to look at like a true value.. or smaller hardware store out in the sticks... or a surplus junk store..

>>1040705
a shitload of CPU fans and long extension cord might work. But probably not.

>>1040705
i'm doing one. buy the fans on the internet however , computer ones are not meant to fly. It cost me 2$ and i'm barely flying at the moment

The scabbard is too far gone.

The blade would clean up with some evap-o-rust and 000 steel wool.

The guard is also very far gone. But give it the same treatment as the blade. It will be a pitted mess when you're done.

The pommel looks to be somewhere between the blade and guard rust-wise.

When you're done, coat it in a light oil like 3-in-1. You'll need to reapply oil occasionally.

I don't knoe what the handle is made out of. Bakelite? It's probably bakelite. I'm not sure what it does and doesn't react with. Clean it with soapy water and a tooth brush.

>>1040563
Additional thoughts:

Resist the urge to use anything more abrasive than a wire brush on this.

Using some fine steel wool and just oiling it is the best way to handle this project. It will never be perfect, embrace it for what it is.

>>1040563
I've been trying to figure out what the handle is made of with no luck. This thing is late 1890s, early 1900s so there's not many things the handle could be made of. I'm willing to give up on the scabbard since it's deformed on top of being rusty, however I'd like to save the handle. It doesn't seem like the rust went too deep on the handle. It's not flaking or anything. I'll follow your advice and see where that takes me. Thank you.

>>1040540
I've thought about this quite a bit before, to get the propulsion needed it would need large tubing, a really good heat source, and the flappy thing thats heated would need to be very efficient

let me guess, Ponyo ?

>>1040561
About to say the same thing.


The only thing that I see with this is that your heart source would have to be massive to heat the metal piece after all that cold water goes into it. It works on smaller toys because it needs to heat up such a small amount, but bigger... I don't know.