Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 431. page

>>1039643
>I also like the Milwaukee 60" work station
>I know like 90% of you are going to say I should buy Snap-on

Oh boy, this thread is going to go real well.

Buy the Harbor Freight box, its pretty good for the price. Garage Journal and SlickDeals both love it, FWIW.
And realize you are getting fucked no matter who you buy the box from, the markups are insane.

>>1039643
No one here will tell you to buy a snap on toolbox/chest. Shits literally the price of a car.

I have a Milwaukee 46" chest that has been great for the 2 years I've had it.

>>1039649
I've pretty well lubed my anus for preparation to any box purchase. I appreciate the Harbor freight support though.

Don't do it op you're going to eletcriboop yourself!

>>1039597
Already done, no spark. I haven't turned it on in months though.

>>1039600
lmao still shocked myself when I forgot to unplug it.

>>1039553
That's one tight ass car hold.

Just extend it from the side of the house?, no need for a seperate building - is easier, bigger, better cheaper. Not seeing problem desu

>>1039553
What do you plan on doing in it?
Could make a small shed fine, but it may not be worth it depending on what else you have and what you want to use it for

>>1039519
I dont even know who he is
Some sort of youtube star?

Who gives a shit

>>1039521
amen brotha

scotty kilmer is to /o/ as this asshole is to /diy/

>>1039495
Metal. You should weld metal.

>>1039498
good idea. thanks

>>1039498

I prefer wood myself

Relais in the picture is the one I use in my setup. this gets a puls from a 24V pushbutton. using the arduino to generate this 24V puls is not so hard with a secondary relais board. but i stll need to be able to use my pushbuttons in the traditional way so there needs to be some kind of feedback once I push a button.

>>1039434
>>1039435
Had to read your post like 5 times to understand, but I think i got it:
To control the pulse relays, wire the arduino-controlled secondary relays in parallel to your pushbuttons (so they will be switching the same 24V to the pulse relay).
To "sense" the relay state, I'd recommend attaching an auxiliary contact to the pulse relay (Hager EPN051 in your case), switching the Arduino's +5Vcc to one digital input (with something like a 10kOhm pull-down resistor to GND). So when the pulse relay changes state, your Din also changes state and is sensed directly. Or you could use your Arduino's pinMode() as INPUT_PULLUP to reverse this logic with no extra discrete parts (switching to ground with the auxiliary contact).
Beware though, you're mixing mains with a low-voltage appliance, which is all fun and games until someone touches the live phase.

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>>1039434
>>1039435
Seems like English isn't your first language so I drew a picture. I think the simple solution is to replace your standard light switch with a two-pole (DPST) light switch. This allows your Arduino to see when the light is on manually, and the paralleled contacts allow the Arduino to control it with the switch off.

>>>/v/56104651

>>>/g/56104651

>>1039354
>>1039353
>samefagging
>shitting up /diy/

Good job

>>1039247
>Should be super simple?

There should be a pad line/array tool in pretty much any routing software you use. If line only, just make a line and copy/paste.

If array, just...use that, then.

I use DipTrace (mostly because that's what I started with and now it's what I'm used to), but only a particular version is free.

Given that you don't actually need any kind of parts library, though, pretty sure you could bang it out in KiCAD in less than 5 minutes.

>>1039247
You know, if you have an image of exactly what you want, you can probably just laser print that on transparencies (expect to have to adjust the scale a couple times because printers wanna be a bitch) and /diy/ yourself a batch.

A few hundred bucks and a few days, and then you'll know how to make your own PCBs.

>>1039253
...although, come to think of it, drilling all those holes at home would be a real bitch.

Sorry, that wasn't the best suggestion.

As a backup server? No that's retarded. Get a cloud backup solution from one of the many provider and an external HDD.

By the heatsink it seems to be some 1998-2000 processor which could be okay for some retro shit, all of the stuff in there should still have dos drivers, and maybe even ISA cards.

Using it for any modern/productive task is literally a waste of time/energy.

>>1039215
Cloud backup is botnet and external HDD is too expensive. Could I perhaps salvage the components/fix up the computer and sell it for some money?

>>1039216
Different anon, but unless you are expecting to get about 10$ max for it, it's not worth the effort. Probably cheaper to take to a junkyard to try and sell for scrap.

what about a couple wraps of that clear window cling that they use for sealing windows in winter?

it' won't survive strong hits or anything... but it'd be waterproof and if damaged I think a 10$ box is enough for a dozen windows or so... so even doubled up you could rewrap it if needed...

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heh i tried to do this cheap a year or so ago

i made individual cells into single panels with plexiglass & pva film using a vacuum pump & heat gun, they turned out alright but were too much work

i said fuck it and picked up a few 250W panels off craigslist for $100/ea

>>1039175
>manufacturer reject cells
How to acquire? Do want.

Regarding your query, silicone. A bead inside the frame, more glass on the back.

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>>1039169
It's this little shitter

One option is getting better Op-amps. The NE5532 is cheap and will make music but something with a higher slew rate will generally make music sound a bit better. The OPA637 is the oft-recommended top-shelf op-amp but you could halve the price and get a AD843 with comparable performance.

>>1039179
So I can just swap out the NE5532's with OPA637, do will I have to use a different connector?

>>1039129
those little faggot plugs are normally 12-24v input

>>1039129
Your phone takes 5v, like 1a
It would fuck it up

Newer / larger smart phones and tablets use 5v at 2.1A. Smaller phones and dumb phones usually use around 5v at 1A.

I'd get a battery pack that can accept higher charging voltage / amperage that has USB outputs.
Probably safer than DIY'n it if you don't have much experience. One could build a cheap circuit to step the charger output down to safe levels, but if done wrong that cheap circuit could brick a much more expensive phone / device.

Arduino, because some one has probably done it with arduino even if they really shouldn't have. What exactly are you trying to do?

>>1039044
Of course they have. But I bet they're all going to be shield stacking disasters written in that arduino code abomination.

Not that arduino itself is bad. Would probably use one of the small model knockoffs with a wireless module and a custom driver/power board, but that's already a 3 layer block.
Alternatively, an ESP8266 with just the custom board.
But I'd much prefer finding a solution that already comes with an API.

Many things to do. Think smart house but with splicing into circuits instead of relying on overpriced commercial solutions or only being able to turn something on/off.
Most basic example would be replacing an offending color power indicator with a controllable RGB one.

>>1039061
>Of course they have. But I bet they're all going to be shield stacking disasters written in that arduino code abomination.
There are lots of companies that make touch screen panels with integrated microcontrollers, and they have drag&drop programming IDEs for making screen interfaces, but they cost hundreds / thousands of dollars.
One example of many-
http://www.aispro.com/products/industrial-touch-panel-computers

On the internet, 7" 'arduino' touch screens are about $50, arduino megas are $7, Arduino Due clones are $12.
The screen needs an interface shield that costs a few more bucks.
If you are hesitant to buy from mysterious Chinese sellers, then Sainsmart sells a 7" screen+Mega+screen shield for $65.

Pic related: a 7" screen on a clone Mega board. I don't remember if this one is Sainsmart or generic parts. Ive used both, they both work.
Mounting isn't convenient but the screen itself works quite well. The screen shield eats up a lot of the IO pins tho.

If you want a (smaller) screen that won't use lots of pins, the Adafruit screens in serial mode only need like 6 pins + the touch interface. Last I looked Adafruit had 3.2" or 3.5" maybe, they didn't build any 7" screens.... The China screens all seem to be wired in parallel.

Since you're in a condo I suspect there's some politicking to be done. Make sure you can actually do what you want to do before you go all in on materials. My HOA wouldn't allow a patio extension on my unit if I wanted one.

>>1039003

Thanks.

Our HOA is pretty laid back about people putting in gardens and such. We have a full time property manager. I have already spoken to him about it. It looks like I will have the green light to do it.

A few other residents have done similar patio extension projects, successfully.

>>1038992
I'll tell you what you're doing wrong. You're not posting any goddamn pictures so we can see what the fuck you are working with. You're description was fucking terrible. Goddammit I swear, every fucking thread...

Yes.

Yes there is a list of compatible hdds online somewhere

yes make sure it is a PATA drive though and not SATA which are current.

PATA= Parallel ATA is has the 40pin IDE ribbon cable to attach, largest size avaiulable for a PS2 would be 320gb (not sure if the multi platter 500gb would work)