I'm going to be making some earrings that are made from plastic packets, and in order to fill these out I need to have some sort of hardening epoxy in them or something. My idea is that I will fill the packets, allow the epoxy to harden And then get in there with the drill press and thread my wire through. Does anybody have an epoxy that they would recommend for this task? Given that this is inside of an opaque packet the color of the epoxy is irrelevant.
For that matter, is it an epoxy that I'm looking for?
>>1038257
>Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
Read the sticky.
>>1038283
Will do. My bad. Thanks.
I was wondering if anyone knew of any websites that provides information and/or instructions on either reverse engineering an OBD-II bluetooth dongle, or provides digital blueprints for designing one at home.
I have found some information and seen than people have made DIY OBD-II dongles using various platforms, as well as people suggesting the use of Chink Shit.
Pic related
>>1038233
So wait, why aren't you just using chink shit? It costs literally 8 dollars and works fine.
>>1038234
I think he likely wants to access a single feature of OBDII.
OBDII functions as an address specific information system. If you isolate the code category like you would an address on a network, you can use the output as a simple readout for one particular dataset. IE, if you only want to know the coolant temperature, you isolate the address output of that single piece of information and you can then feed that to a digital output to replace a gauge.
I'm assuming this is why he wants to break down the design.
>>1038239
OP here; this is what I am after. Pins 1, 3, 8, 9, 11, 12, and 13 are Make/Model specific and I would like to be able to perform custom processes.
Trying to fix the AC in my sis's car. Put a gauge on the low side and see 0 psi. Hook up a can of 134a, put an ounce in and hear it hiss out somewhere to the rear. I'd like to hook my compressor to the lowside fill and push 50 psi in it to help locate the leak. How bad of idea would that be? There is probably air in the system already, but not the amount I'd be introducing.
>>1038147
>I'd like to hook my compressor to the lowside fill and push 50 psi in it to help locate the leak
That's how you do it. Buy some refrigeration dye and a black light. Make sure you have a dryer on your air line. Compressed nitrogen is the way to go if you're serious about this stuff.
Make sure you clean the lines and look at everything before you start pushing the dye through or you might never find it.
Rent/buy/borrow a vacuum pump when you go to recharge it. If you live in an area with pawn shops, they frequently have gauge sets and vacuum pumps.
Amazon items:
dye: B002AII980
light and glasses: B003JOB594
Source: I was an engineer at a company that built industrial refrigeration equipment.
>>1038147
rear of the pump?
its most likely the O rings on the end of the rubber hoses.
>>1038182
Rear of car. It's a Trailblazer and has AC lines out the ass. There is a set going way back along the passenger side frame. Probably to a rear evap. Looks like there might be another set going mid way back. It's stupid complex.
>>1038181
I was thinking about converting a little piston compressor to a vacuum pump but it'd never get close enough to a vacuum imo. I'll probably fix the leak, test the system, then take it to a shop to have it evac'd and charged. Can't see them charging much for that.
This is a picture of what happened to my new desk after being under the heat of my laptop for days. I guess it's covered in paper that will warp under a lot of heat which is what my laptop gives off.
Is there anything I can do to fix this? And how can I prevent it from happening? Is there something I can put under the laptop? Right now I've put a clipboard underneath it and that hopefully won't catch fire or anything.
>>1037970
You bought a shitty desk with cheap veneer on it.
Cant be surprised its ripping off.
>>1037970
Is your laptop an Acer or something? I remember a girl in university begging me to save her files after her Acer literally caught fire and burned a hole under the heatsink. Salvaged her HDD.
Regarding your desk... not much you can do in its present state. If you really, really like the desk, you could cut out / scrape off any parts of the desk that stick proud of the surface, fill that section in with drywall compound, sand it, and put a thin new top or veneer over it. Or do the same but with Bondo and put a really good paint overtop of it.
Alternatvely, if you have decent legs under the desk, you could buy a new cheap top from IKEA. They have thick, cardboard-core masonite (think hollow American-style door) tops that have a reasonably durable surface for the price.
open up laptop, clean / vaccuum dust and crap out, renew heatsink paste if capable - laptop should run cooler.
get ventilated laptop stands/coolers from AMZ etc - be about $15-$20, with or without fan, or put laptop on a more solid piece of wood between laptop/table, chopping board, etc. Be careful you are not blocking vents, put something underneath back of laptop (strip wood/metal/plastic, whatever) to raise rear slightly and allow airflow underneath.
Your table is, in all probability, a POS - I doubt its worth attemping repair, a better quality table be less likely to go on fire, but if your laptop is running too hot? - fix, before it dies (goto 1st paragraph)
I need a tool blog that reviews power tools both old and new like 14.4v makita drills and shit
In return I will post wacky ductwork craft and shit made by the bored techs at Gensco
I work HVAC
>>1037933
>I need a tool blog that reviews power tools both old and new like 14.4v makita drills and shit
I just Google old shit if curious but I don't bother with reviews. If it's used I get it so cheap I don't care. If you get some old shit, post a thread and someone with it can chime in.
Do want to see HVAC funstuff though!
holy fuck i just realized what a sick pic that is
>>1037933
Toolguyd.com
So I have had this for a pretty long time, never figured out what I should make with it.
any thoughts?
>>1037733
Welcome to the most cancerous thread. Sage.
>>1037735
how is it cancerous, i'm legit asking a question gtfo of here
>>1037737
Let me demonstrate: insert it in your ass.
So I made a cutting board as a gift last xmas, but the jackass let a watermelon rot on their counter next to it. It soaked up a ton of water and warped a bunch. The bow in the middle has 3/8" of deflection...
>pic related is the board when I gave it at xmas
>>1037666
In case you were wondering, the dark spots at the near side in the picture are from my boards getting sniped in the planer. Lesson learned, in the future I will make sure the board length has a an inch or two extra at the end...
Anyways, I first began trying to get rid of the warping. I first tried ironing it w/ a wet rag; no dice. Next, I tried leaving it in the sun for a couple HOT days wrapped in a wet towel. This had some improvement, but it was still warped by over .25". Finally, I said fuck it, and popped it in the oven above a foil tray with water, and steamed it. This got the warp down to just over .125", but, as expected it cracked the board in several spots.
>no pic, I didnt bother taking any at this time.
I proceeded to planing it, but because of all the warping I fixed earlier, I ended up only having to take about 3/16" total, between the two sides.
Next I went ahead and filled in the cracks and new exposed grain with homemade filler. I used mahogany because I have a ton of dust from another project. It was sanded down with 60 grit for now.
I went ahead and added new chamfers on the router, .25" on the top, and .125" on bottom. I had some chip out during this process, so I went ahead and added new filler.
>pics related.
>>1037669
I sanded it back down with 60, 250, then 400, and finally a wet sanding at 1500. I then soaked in my mineral oil for the finish. It has so far taken in almost 20 fl oz, and I think I will be able to soak in at least half of another bottle.
I'll preface this by saying I'm a retard and this could have been prevented. But it is what it is.
This is what my hardwood floor looks like after I picked up the rug my dog has been peeing on. We rent, so if this can't be helped, we're looking at a $3000 charge to replace the floors when we move out two years from now. I can easily put aside that much money over the next 2 years but I'd rather not have to. That's a couple of cruise ship tickets right there. I've tried reading up on how to fix this but the guides either don't give enough info or assume I own the place and I'm ready to redo the whole floor.
-What should spray on the floor?
-Do I need to sand it bare first?
-If so, after only be sanding that particular spot, how can I make sure to refinish it in a way that matches the rest of the flooring?
-Other ideas?
-Am I fucked?
I think you're fucked mate
Minwax makes stain wipes. You can get them at any hardware store. Though I'm not sure how they'd work on parquet floors. Might be worth a shot though.
$3000 to replace that tiny section of floor is a rip off.
How would i go about making one of these?
It appears to be a simple resin but thats as much as i know.
>>1037011
2 different resins with a tiny bit of stirring. Then sanding and polishing.
>>1037011
>crack a piece of wood
>put some tape around it to create a mold
>mix up some epoxy resin
>poke in some pigment
>pour into mold
>let it dry
>bore out desired ring size using drill press
>cut rough shape of ring using scroll saw or grind it down against an abrasive wheel
>finish by rubbing it against sand paper on a flat surface, increasing grits until desired finish is achieved
just guessing
Any advice for a makeshift low pressure pressure tank?
I'm doing a run of teak cock rings, I use two hole cutters and a router to get a decent donut shape, that takes me 10 minutes, but sanding it smooth takes me an hour and a half. I use a flappy sanding bit on the drill press for the center, but it's no good for the other surfaces.
I've tried strapping tape round a large bit until the ring fits snuggly and I can fit that into the drill press and sand, but it's risky as if it's too tight suddenly spinning it can make it crack.
Is there a tried and tested method for finishing a shape like this? or maybe you've got a method I could rig?
>work-safe board
>>1037014
I'm making a run of bracelets
>wooden cock rings
Aren't cock rings supposed to be adjustable? Or at least have some amount of give, e.g. silicone?
Hey /diy/ !
I'm plan on building a catapult/slingshot contraption.
It's to be used in a movie to shoot debris in a horizontal direction to enhance an exploding effect.
I'm planning on shooting sand, wood chips, pieces of styrofoam, flour.
My plan so far:
I plan on using a small trampoline and make a wooden frame so it stands upright.
Attach a bucket (or a similar container) to the middle of the trampoline netting.
Make a handle on the back end of the container.
Fill the bucket, pull back as far as I can. Fire.
Does this sound ok to you guys? Anything i might look out for when building or shooting a thing like this? It's not going to directly fire in the direction of people. But i'm still concerned for safety. I've never build anything like this before.
Things i might add:
- some sort of trigger device (i thought of using big tensioning straps which truckers use for a quick release, haven't thought of something better yet, but there must be a better way)
- reinforcement of the trampoline cloth to maybe prevent tearing
Thanks in advance for any help, I'd really appreciate it.
>>1036933
The tension straps I was talking about.
I'm affraid I might hurt myself if I use these as a release, they could slap all over the place.
>>1036939
Ratchet straps are pretty hard to release mate.
>>1036958
ratchet strap it back, then clip on a quick release, remove straps.
I don't think a trampoline will fling shit far enough to make for a very realistic explosion, or even a very hollywood explosion.
Why not make an air gun? Surely it'd be easier. Compressed air, switch, tube and whatever you're shooting.
Never spray painted something before.
Do I need to bother sanding a brand new plastic item that has no scratches? Or if I do (I guess so the paint can adhere right?), Do I need primer? What grit rating do I use? The plastic is glossy/shiny/smooth as fuck already btw.
>>1036559
What kind of plastic?
ABS,PP,PE(T),Celcon etc
>>1036567
Doesn't actually say any more other than Polycarbonate
>>1036559
If the plastic is super smooth - depending on your paint you need to "key" the surface first by sanding with a high grit paper.
If you have paint designed for that surface you can skip this step.
Long story short my family cut the cable. But we need access to local channels and I hate the indoor antennas. And most outdoor ones are cheaply made or expensive. I read about the stripped coax cable trick and wanted to give this a try. But, will adding to this make the signal stronger? Just wrapping it around some hangers and or any metal? Or would sticking with a transformer be the best bet? My current materials are a f-ton of wire fence from building a privacy wood fence and an equal f-ton of coaxial cable.
I know very little about this subject but have been reading a lot. I would just like a broader understanding.
What frequencies does your TV band cover? If you can't answer that give us your location.
>>1036246
I'm going to say vhf and uhf
>>1036254
More specific.
What kind of driver piece do I use to take one of these screws out?
>>1036093
Square one.
Are you even trying?
>>1036093
does you son have any drivers?
rob a son
Anyone here know how I can get rid of this white spots on my monitor?
>>1035973
They look like dead pixels. I don't think there's a fix for that.
Backlight bleeding. Could cover up with some spray paint, or nail polish for smaller spots...
Just get a new one
Dead pixels can be massaged out usually. I have done it in the past.