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Estimation

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Alright /diy/ residential estimator here gunna drop some cheats here for you.

Various time saving methods and hacks will be posted here, feel free to ask me any questions.

Don't ask me about code though that's too different all over the world, I have a fair amount of product knowledge and practical as well.

First off is calculating slope length of Gable Ends. Included is a list of factors and their given pitch.

Simply take the slope factor and multiply by half your truss span. You can then take that number multiplied by your ridge length for total area of one side of the roof.
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You'll probably want to know total gable end area after this as well.

For that I have a table. Simply find your pitch and total span, and the number where they intersect is your gable end area.

If it's an odd pitch simply multiply your truss height by half of your span.
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>>1171140
>>1171143
I'll be lurking this thread OP.
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Now that's all easy enough but lots of people struggle when it comes to a hip roof as opposed to gable end roof.

One again I am here to make your life easy.

If you want to find the length of a hip/ridge take half your roof size multiplied by the appropriate factor.

Easy as pie.
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Not much to explain here just fractions in decimals.

>>1171145
Hopefully I give you something useful.
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Stair stringers/risers. Pretty simple stuff.

Where I'm from every step has to be exactly the same for code so we take this pretty seriously. Not sure about other countries.
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Really good one for on centre calculations here.

16/oc calculation is literally just multiply by 0.75

We get that number by some funny sounding math, but I'll explain.

Basically we have 0.75 of 16 inches in every foot, so if you want a 16/oc spacing for 10 feet it's

10 x 0.75 and you round up then add one for the end.

Which works out to 9 boards.

I'll use a different spacing to clarify.

So we got the 0.75 by putting 12/16 that means if we want a 4 inch spacing on spindles for a handrail we can do the same thing.

12/4 = 3 so your on centre factor for 4 inches is 3.

On the same 10 foot section that works out to;

10 x 3 Rd up + 1 for the end.

Or 31 spindles.

This works for framing walls, strapping a ceiling, calculation lags for your sill plate. Anything that's on centre spacing.
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Going a little more in depth in framing, there are other things to take into account.

You need extra studs for corners, intersecting walls, doors and various other things to take into account as well.
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I can go into more specifics if anyone would like, if not next post is determining quantity of various fasteners and adhesives.
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Fasteners it is.

So any form of sheeting be it roof sheeting, floor, or exterior siding it's 1 pound of fasteners per 3 sheets or 1.6 screws per Sq.Ft. excluding any large load bearing situations this is more than enough force.

Drywall is generally 1-5/8" screws in most scenarios.

Assuming one layer of 1/2" drywall then you will need;

32 screws for an 8' sheet
40 for a 10'
And 48 for a 12'

Or 4 screws per lineal foot/1 screw per square foot.

Adhesives are a little harder because everyone squeezes differently. Some guys get 2 sheets from a tube of PL and some get 5.

The math I do for a PL Premium type adhesive is one tube per 135 Sq.Ft.

Most large tubes of Acoustical Sealant will give you 500 Sq.Ft of bead. You will need 1 Roll of tuck tape for every ~8-10 tubes depending on the contractor.

Screws for metal siding are one per Sq.Ft.

A 17L (4.5gallon) box of drywall mud will cover 425 Sq.Ft at two coats.

You need 5 screws for every Sq.Ft of decking assuming a 3" treated wood screw.

When framing you need 20framing nails(Paslode/Bostitch etc.) per lin.Ft. if wall or 1/4lb of hand nails.
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>>1171170
Forgot joint tape for Drywall.

One 500' roll for every 40 sheets.
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Concrete in a sonotube formula.
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That's most of my time saving cheats, I'm open to questions now if you like.

Here is a picture of how I actually do my job. Mostly computerized now so I figure I don't have to hoard all my cheats anymore.
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>>1171174
What program is that?
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Holy shit op, thanks.
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Am fresh structural eng. Give detailing tips to help your job
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>>1171322
Prebuilt ML

>>1171352
No worries.

>>1171357
I work at a lumber yard. Customers give us plans of houses they want built and I tell them what they need to build it and how much it costs.

I don't have a degree or anything it's a pretty simple job if you know what you are doing. What do you want to know?
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>>1171378
whats a 1000 sqft bare bones ranch style house cost?
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>>1171378
You don't calculate things like screws/nails/lagbolts/hurricane straps?
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>>1171411
You need to be an engineer to do that, otherwise you just follow code.
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>>1171485
I meant the pricing you derp.
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>>1171389
Depends on a lot of things. Roof pitch, do you want an attic, are you framing it or going prebuilt trusses, is it slab on grade, 2x4 or 2x6 walls, what do you want on the exterior, on the interior.

Assuming you make pretty average decisions I could sell you everything minus the slab below it for ~60,000.

>>1171411
No, I do. But that's just a piece count you don't really need cheats for hangers or storm ties. Ether you just count how many you need or it's an on centre calculation which I've shown how to do above. Fasteners like screws and nails I've already made a post for.
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>>1171581
>Depends on a lot of things.

i'm talkin' bare bones 4/12 pitch 25x40 wooden box, vinyl siding, concrete floors.
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>>1171676
Depending on by-laws, code, property costs, and utilities set up, could be as low as $25,000.

Where do you live?
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>>1171677
western oregon. i'm thinking about getting a house built, but i know general contractors are shady as fuck. i'm looking mostly at properties that have already had houses on them, so the utilities are already in place.
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>>1171681
>>1171681
If you do open concept like a New York studio apartment or whatever, with concrete floors then the materials would probably top out at $25,000 plus furniture afterwards. Add another few grand for plumbing/electrical/hvac and you'll be living in the house for under $75,000.

If you want I can put together a quick package for you with Canadian pricing. And you can then take the materials list to your local supplier and have them plug their prices in.

You'all have to get someone else to estimate your Slab though you probably don't do it like we do in Canada.

I recommend just having the contractors do what a licence is required for by law where you live.

Stuff like insulating and drywalling can be done by just about anyone to save a few bucks. Framing the house/putting the trusses on and plumbing/electrical are the things I would pay for myself.
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>>1171688
Note this is assuming price levels similar to Northern Ontario.

Could be $100,000 in all reality but I've put together packages here for houses that were less than $50,000 for the materials.
Thread posts: 27
Thread images: 10


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