Diy speaker stands
Diy speaker stands 2016-12-07 05:57:28 Post No.1095390
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Diy speaker stands 2016-12-07 05:57:28 Post No.1095390
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Diy speaker stands
Diy speaker stands
2016-12-07 05:57:28
Post No. 1095390
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Diy speaker stands.
I have some large studio monitors (yamaha hs8) and stands for them seem rather expensive and most are rather low down ( like a meter average). How should i construct some that are to a reasonable height (need about 1.5m)? Or would it be better to build a desk which could accommodate them? My current desk is wide enough but doesn't have enough depth.
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If you care about the vibration of the stand affecting your audio get 4+" sewage pipe and fill it with sand or kitty litter, otherwise just slap some studs together brah
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>>1095402
I was thinking that thick foam stuff but idk how wobbly it would become
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>>1095404
Wouldn't those fat heavy monitors compress foam into uselessness over time anyway?
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So im in a pickle anons. Im trying to repair some 7.1 analog headphones my rabbit decided to slice when i wasnt looking. I stead of trying to splice the wires at the break point (since these types of wires are so difficult to work with), ive decided to outright replace the broken wires entirely with new ones at the solder points.
My problem, i cant find these wires online anywhere, and when i try to amazon/google search, it pulls up nothing but f*cking setero auxiliary cords.
Going to radioshack, they only have typical presleeved copper wire, which isnt the same thin, flexible, stranded, multicolored wire that you'd typically find in headphones.
Any anons know where to find spools of these types of wires, or what theyre specifically called, for the sake of being able to search them up?
Pic is both the damage, and example of the type of wires im looking for.
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Buy small gauge speaker wire and some shrink tubeing to fix the hack job
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>>1095379
That would work, yes, but im looking for the light flexibility these cords have. I dont want my headphones to be stiff as fuck while im moving my head around. Kind of why im looking for these specifically.
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how much is left on the jack end? Could you just solder the remaining length to the headphones and use a cable extender?
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>Have pic related
>LCP is only 0.83 inches thick
>Decide to make custom book safe for gun and 1 magazine
>Pick book around 1 inch thick with at least 1 inch around both items
>Buy 12 neodymium 1/3 inch magnets
>Glue pages together individually
>Glue magnets in holes drilled
>7 of 10 magnets set it place
>Try to test retention
>Magnets furl the pages and rip each other out of place
Is there a way to make a magnetic closure on a book that won't suck? The only way that I can imagine it working okay is to divide ghe book into 8 sections and glue one go another. I can't imagine the pages looking okay after all of the glue.
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>>1095266
Heres an alternative idea
A cheap box set, with the majority of the book removed except the spines and a bit past that, glued so it becomes one piece, with a hinge hidden inside. Will allow you to store more as well
Theres both better and worse methods than yours tho
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>>1095268
I was planning on hollowing it out with a band saw and filling the inside with foam. I couldn't get to that point because I hadn't yet set the magnets. I don't quite see what a hinge would do.
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>>1095271
I was referring to my theory, of the box set, using a hinge.
Yours is different and isnt related to that.
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Sup /diy/. Ive got one of these little faggot scooters. It runs nice but I wanna make it even cooler. I'm thinking that if I follow one of those guides for a homemade tin can jet engine I can modify that and use it is a turbocharger. Anyone done anything with homemade turbos ?
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>>1094939
Electric or die anon.
Jump ona brushless lithium 1 if u want.
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>>1094939
>tin can jet engine I can modify that and use it is a turbocharger
Lol
You need to compress the air not just move it. Just get a 5 horse and strap it to the ass end.
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>>1095010
No you tard I meant use that as the air compressor, point exhaust towards one blade, get air compression on other side.
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I live in a relatively old and cheap slav building. For years I had no problems, but now suddenly I can hear from my bedroom the neighbours next door and to an extend the ones bellow (probably because there was no one there for years before now). The problem seems to mostly be coming from one of the walls. There is an electric socket on it and I pretty sure for some reason because of that the wall might be hollow from inside even though it is made by concrete, I think.
What can I do to fix that? The cheaper the better, but I might be willing to go deeper if needed.
Rebuilding the whole wall with more concrete and some soundproofing material is going to probably be the best option. Making the wall thicker is going to force me to rearrange the furniture and sadly there is not enough space for that, but I will find a way if I have to. Just putting something on the top of the wall is probably not going to be very reliable?
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strap niggers to the wall but dont use chains or they will sing.
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>>1094862
god tier
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>>1094862
No niggers in slavland.
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Is anyone familiar enough with stone to tell if this is granite, marble, or soapstone? I don't think it's soapstone because it doesn't take scratches from a finger nail, it does sand pretty easily though, which I'm not sure if granite would do. It was in ugly shape when I got it initially, it had some deep rings (indented in the stone) from where a candle stick was probably left on it for years - I was able to sand those out fairly easily with some 80 grit paper though. Currently it's at a 220 grit sand (did 80, 120, 150, 220) so I'm wondering next steps. If it's granite do I have to sand it up to 2000 grit to get it to darken up, or can I leave it rough and rub some mineral oil on it? All help is appreciated. Pic related is after rubbing it with a wet cloth
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Here it is dry at 220 grit
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>>1094609
it looks like marble to me, usually marble will be softer than granite thus causing it to scratch abd sand easier. when we polish stone we will go up to 3000 with pads but if all you have is sandpaper 2000 will be good. its also a good idea to clean it with acetone inbetween pads to clean it well
does anyone have any experience testing for heavy metals in their work?
i'm currently in the process of repainting an older boat trailer. the frame is steel and the paint is well on its way to flaking off the frame. normally for this job, i would just get a wire wheel, put it on a grinder, and start stripping. i always find myself worried, though, that i'm working with a lead based paint. i've already ordered the stick in the pic.
even if i'm not, are there products out there that allow me to collect paint dust as i'm stripping it from a surface?
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> biyng a lead paint tester
why do poeple buy this serious
Just us the lick and sweet metod
I've been doing ti for the last 10 year and i never had to spend adime on this shit like this
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>>1094578
i'd always heard lead tastes sweet
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I'd go with a 3M mouth cover, and use excentic grinder, with the dust bag attached.
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>buy chink PSU for LED lighting(looks like pic related) for extremely cheap
>take it home, wire it up
>it works
>but there's no continuity between the earth pin and the chassis
Should I ground it myself with a piece of wire, or is it okay?
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Ground it urself op
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it's a low-voltage circuit. you gain nothing by grounding it, coz ground is supposed to be a protective shield, in case the live side touches something. if you have no live, you need no ground.
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>>1094418
There is a live though. It's 110/220 VAC to 12 VDC
Anonymous
computer build - need help! 2016-12-04 10:39:53 Post No.1094053
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computer build - need help! 2016-12-04 10:39:53 Post No.1094053
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computer build - need help!
Anonymous
2016-12-04 10:39:53
Post No. 1094053
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hey guys,
this is my first time building a computer and i want to be sure that i have all of the parts right.
here's the link to all of the parts:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hHFjZ8
i'm pretty sure all of these parts are compatible with eachother, but i half-assed the dimensions. does anyone have any online tools that they use to put builds like this together? and do you think this build is doable?
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Those are all compatible, you shouldn't have any issues. I would definitely add an SSD.
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are all compatible, though I don't think 650 W is needed, 550 W will do it unless you plan to add another graphic card, which would be possible with that mainboard
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>>1094062
Power supplies are most efficient when you draw about half of their max rated load. Nothing wrong with over specing one.
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I have a little question for my term project. They've asked of us to make a kind of analog air conditioner. We have to design a temperature adjustment unit which uses duty cycles of a square wave. %0 duty cycle is -50C, %50 is 0C, and %100 is 50C etc. Question is, how can I convert this duty cycle percentage to a proper dc voltage which I can compare with a sensor's voltage output? We can only use op-amps, resistors, transistors, diodes, capacitors, inductors, and a dc power supply. All help is appreciated.
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>analog air conditioner
What. Why? This is certainly an exercise in analog controls but the reasoning is a little baffling, anyone could do this with a microcontroller in a day.
It'd be nice if you gave us a proper diagram of what you THINK it should look like, at least at the block diagram level. I'd start with that.
As best I can tell right now, you need to design something that will read in an analog voltage from a sensor, and convert this into a PWM output of some duty cycle? Sounds like it will be a number of comparators that output to a square wave generating circuit
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>>1093931
why use a microcontroller when you only need a sawtooth wave and a comparator?
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>>1093938
Because analog components are more sensitive to temperature change and aging for one. And even as simple as this circuit is the PID tuning of a microcontroller control system rather than an analog PID would be much simpler. Take a little less knowledge and time to setup a microcontroller than an analog control circuit with feedback
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Sup /diy/
Got some european wasps (yellowjackets for you stateside fags) lurking under this slab. Have only just noticed them so I doubt the colony is that big yet.
As the ground is too uneven to position a mower in such a way that the exit is totally covered, I was thinking of just dumping a few shovels worth of dirt over the exit and packing it in so its harder to dig through, and filling that crack between the lifted slabs with space invader so they can't get out there either. I've got full body coveralls and I can chuck some layers underneath so i'm not too worried about getting stung in the process. This is a rental, so fire is not an option.
Any good?
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>>1093782
if those are yellow jackets like that are in the states, your going to get stung even with coveralls.
what most people don't know is vinegar (acetic acid) breaks down wasp venom. just soak a rag or paper towel and cover the sting sites for 20 minutes, but you have to apply it as quick as you can. ammonia works for honey bee venom, they are not interchangeable. it works, you'll end up with something that resembles a mosquito bite, and hardly any pain.
i'm not doubting you, but i never seen yellow jackets nest close to the ground, just mud wasps. but since they are close to the ground why not just drown the bastards with bleach.
also you could smear any toothpaste with fluoride and cover the entrance. it will kill them
wasps= vinegar
bees=ammonia
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>>1093784
>. but since they are close to the ground why not just drown the bastards with bleach.
>also you could smear any toothpaste with fluoride and cover the entrance. it will kill them
these
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you need a full blown hazmat suit, like the thick ass level A kind... and several gallons of boiling water to pour over the slab
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Hi DIY! Guy from /k/ here.
To preface, I know the rules, and this isn't a weapon, it is a toy, used purely for fun and reenactment.
I'm involved in Russian airsoft reenactment with some good buddies of mine and wanted something unique. I've designed an airsoft RPG-7 to be used with foam rockets that can either simply be foam or to detonate with a sort of timed pyrotechnic to emit smoke or to fling BB's all over and tag players out.
Recently an admin of a facebook page I follow created pic related- a working AN-94 with a reciprocating barrel. I was wondering if anyone here has ever done the same thing, anything similar, or knew anyone that has.
Thanks for viewing, I'm glad for any help or feedback. Just ask about the design if you're curious, I used to have several pages of design notes, but lost them in binders for this semester. I did memorize all the details however.
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Please tell me about the design
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>>1093530
Blog post?
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>>1093575
A tube, with a wooden shielding segment in the rear to imitate the real one, a strengthened tubing segment for cosmetic reasons around the handguards. Uses 40mm CO2 grenades, press-fitted to a hard-cored re-usable rocket that has a plastic fitting in the shape of the 40mm grenade's head on the back. Uses a normal trigger/striker mechanism. Current ones only use this, but the 40mm grenade just flings BB's everywhere. This one would fire rockets. Originally I thought of several other ideas on how to make the machine cock and lock, but the current system- where a trigger mechanism is in the handguard, and a hammer is behind it, would work well enough to pull a segment of tensioned steel with a hammer on it, or with use of a small leaf spring. It's mostly a retrofit of existing launchers, yet it also isn't, as the rocket system is the largest change with everything. I currently don't have enough money to create the project, and was asking about feasibility.
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>/diy/'s EDC
What do you fags carry with you daily?
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>>1092957
You carry two fucking knives?
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> calls us fags and then expects us to contribute to his thread
> posts a picture with two fucking knives for no fucking reason but doesn't carry a wallet
> poses all his shitty stuff together for a Pinterest tier photo
You don't belong here
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>>1092958
Random pic from the interwebz
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I need to cheaply partition my apartment to reduce heat loss.
I nee to separate the living room from the rest of the apartment.
I was looking into buying heavy drapes, or curtains, and just hanging them there.
My ceiling height is a little over 9ft.
Whats the best product to buy on the cheap, and hang it so to partition the place. It doesn't need to slide, so a few ceiling hooks will do.
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See how cheep you can get a insulated tarp. They are used in concrete work to keep heat in so the Crete can set
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>>1092720
I dont want to actually hang a tarp.
Curtains like pic related are cheap, and come in 72x108, two of them should do it.
I need suggestion on good material that keeps heat in.
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>>1092728
I found this here
https://www.amazon.com/Gorgeous-Home-THERMAL-BLACKOUT-GROMMETS/dp/B01AR65H5E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480646719&sr=8-3&keywords=108%22%2Bdrapes&th=1
its 9ft long, I would prefer to find 10 feet.
Goddamn curtain rod that long is $50. I'll just make my own from PVC, or an aluminum tube for less.
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Have you ever found something in your workshop you can't explain or more simply have you ever found what I did (Pic related)
I'm still confused what to make of this.
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>>1092348
Congrats, you found Plank.
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>>1092350
Another pic