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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 244. page

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I'm looking for /comfy/ tier steel toed boots

I going to be standing for most of my work day so I'm fine with spending $300ish on them.

A store near me has some 3508s for $309. Should I go for it?

pic related
52 posts and 10 images submitted.
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>>1128808
Doc Martens.
>>
>>1128813

The CSA approved Docs are a lot cheaper than the red wings

How is it for comfort?
>>
>>1128815
I have had mine for 4 years and they are amazing.

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Looking for brews you may have made/experimented. Common house supplies would be cool but seriously just whatever.
What drinks have you made yourself without recipe bullshit, drink and actually enjoyed?

Post the ingredients and instructions you'd suggest. I might drink it tomorrow and rate it.
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Are you talking homebrewing or mixing drinks?
>>
The absolutely simple way for a cheap home drunk is hard cider. you can literally open a bottle of %100 apple juice, pour in some yeast leave the bottle cracked open, wait 2 weeks and drink it. you'll have roughly an %8 brew
>>
>>1131844
Homebrewing, sorry I was not very clear

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Hey guys, not really sure where else to post this so forgive me if this legitimately does not belong here, but I'm going crazy trying to find what kind of screw this is. This screw is present on a window gate in a public housing building that I want to remove but I've no idea where to even start when it comes to identifying it and my google-fu on this hasn't helped me.

Anyone have an idea?
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Yes this Crew exist in France. It s made for not jumping though the window ( suicide ) only little people like manager or chief can acces to the key of this crew.
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>>1131737

It's a security screw. They put them in so people don't remove them.

DON'T FUCK WITH IT.
>>
Opsit® TRI-WING Security Screw.

Tamper-proof.

I just googled "screw head types chart" and came up with this. Took 2 minutes. Step up your game, OP.

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>Drone with hundreds of flights
>On the workbench lubricating motors right now
>Test and flight time immediately lowered by 1min

WTF???

I thought oiling would reduce noise and friction.

They're coreless brushed motors and I used ball bearing oil from the bike.

While the motors were dirty with dust, gravel and hairs entangled around the rotor they flew perfect... now that they're clean it's worse than before.

Don't understand... maybe I used too much oil and it's causing too much viscosity drag in the tight space between the rotor and the casing.

Anyone had something similar happening in toys with electric motors?

Should I wait? Should I use it to wear off the effect? Should I do something?
10 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Anyone know how to use a catalogue?
>>1113047
>>
>>1131436Thanks for digging that up anon, but considering that no shared experience in that entire thread borders anywhere near the required level of engine inner workings detail, it would have been much better if you had just told me to go sodomized myself rather than having sent me chasing leprechauns.Thanks for the entertaining read though... pointless, but entertaining.
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>>1131461
> asking a thread full of people who routinely use the same hardware that you are having a problem with is an exercise in chasing leprechauns

I get the feeling no matter where you ask, you're going to be a stroppy cunt about the answers you get. Good luck with that faggot..

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Has anybody made his own e-liquids???
i have, think maybe we can exchange recipes
20 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Nicotine+propylene glycol+flavoring soluble in propylene glycol

Its not rocket science
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>>1130579
Everclear + Bud stems + lime juice.
Seriously, you will thank me.
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>>1130579
50:50 PG:VG, DMT.

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Hey /diy/ I have a driver that keeps crashing on me, anyone know a good solution to fix this?
31 posts and 6 images submitted.
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Update it
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shameless self bump, i just wanna play css guys
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>>1130147
no updates avail apparently

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Where do I get large pieces of wood cut if I don't have a table saw?

Trying to build an arcade machine and I've never worked with wood this big before
10 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>1130043
Jig saw would work for those intricate shapes

If you just want square cuts, they could do it for you at home depot when you buy it
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>>1130043
A circular saw and a straight edge clamped to the wood will get you good results. It's a ghetto track saw.
>>
Just use a hand saw.

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> He buys from the supermarket Jew

What are you planning to grow this year?
ill be growing tomatoes,potatoes,Swiss chard, lettuce, spring onions, radishes, salad leaves and a boat load of herbs.
20 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1130014
I buy organic so I will be fine.
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>>1130015
>buy organic

Hippy
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>>1130014
I'm growing chink shit this year, Pak choy, bekana, 'green wave' mustard greens, ho-mi-zee mild mustard greens, mibuna oriental greens, 'ogi' tatsoi, 'tai sai' white stem pak choice, komatsuna Japanese green, mispoona oriental greens, red mizuna.
Also growing a selection of potatoes, San Marzano Redora tomatoes, kobocha Japanese pumpkins, Achocha, along with lettuces, peas, cucumbers, bell peppers, chilies, shallots, onions, garlic, coriander, culinary and medicinal herbs, strawberries, raspberries and maybe some brassicas of some kind. Every year I always try something new to me.

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I am in the infancy stages of building/planning to build a house (I already have the land) and I have a good base for that I think I would like, however I am not sure if the different design styles would mesh well. I am looking at a house like pic related often called "French Country style" homes, however for my interior I would like a cabinesque style interior, using no sheetrock or plaster and using only tongue and groove wood paneling. Would these two design styles mesh well? Or would they look retarded? Its a huge step in my life and perhaps I am over thinking it.

>house
9 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1129679
>>1129679
>interior
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>>1129679
there is no incompatibility issue between the two style u mentioned
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>>1129681

I like it.

Good luck oP

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>General Information
http://rsgb.org/main/
http://www.arrl.org/
http://www.rac.ca/
https://www.darc.de/home/

>What is amateur radio?
http://rsgb.org/main/get-started-in-amateur-radio/what-is-amateur-radio/
http://www.arrl.org/what-is-amateur-radio

>Band Plans
http://rsgb.org/main/operating/band-plans/
http://www.arrl.org/band-plan

>Local Clubs
https://thersgb.org/services/clubfinder/
http://www.arrl.org/find-a-club

>News:
http://www.southgatearc.org/
http://www.arrl.org/news

>Contest Calendar
http://www.hornucopia.com/contestcal/

>Propagation Forecasts
http://www.hamqsl.com/solar3.html
http://www.predtest.uk/
http://www.swpc.noaa.gov/

>Amateur Radio Shops
UK:
http://www.hamradio.co.uk/
http://www.moonraker.eu/
http://www.radioworld.co.uk/
USA:
Post suggestions pls

>Youtube Channels
https://www.youtube.com/user/RadioHamGuy
https://www.youtube.com/user/stangibilisco
https://www.youtube.com/user/jimw6lg
https://www.youtube.com/user/HamRadioNow
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJDdMdjxwFsjdzhXQFHVk2g/featured (Space Comms)

Please post criticism and suggestions, /diy/ seems to get a lot of radio related questions and seems to have quite a few hams, a general amateur radio thread might be good.
328 posts and 33 images submitted.
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>What is amateur radio?
Amateur radio is a vast hobby about radio communication, electronics, astronomy, geography, meteorology and more
>What's the point?
The point is it's fun. The fun is in both the learning and the operating. You can call your mate in Australia on skype easily, but sending a radio signal from where you are and having it come down the other side of the planet? That's impressive.
>Isn't it an old man hobby?
It's true the average radio operator is older, but there are younger people in the hobby, and many of the old bastards know more about science and technology than people in their 20s.
>How do I get into it?
First of all you need a license. You have to share the radio spectrum with various companies and services, from the military, and maritime to space research and taxis. The licensing will depend on your country. Normally there are about 3 or 4 tiers of licenses, the higher the license the more power you're allowed and the more you can do.
>How do I get one?
Find your local amateur radio club and contact them, they'll be happy to help.
>I've got one, now what?
There are many things to do in amateur radio. The most popular being VHF/UHF for local communication, both simplex and via repeaters, but the 'main' thing in amateur radio is DXing, making long distance communications.
>Is it an expensive hobby?
It can be. Luckily you can buy everything second hand. Speak to people at your local club, they can get you started.
>I have another question
Ask in the thread

Trying to get a regular amateur radio thread going, is this okay for a beginner? Should this go in a pastebin or should I just post it as the 2nd post in each thread? Any suggestions?
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Pic related is my first HF rig, really like it, performs well. Few niggles like having to dive into menus to access things like RF power, and also felt like the shift knob should have been a notch knob too.

It was hooked up to a dipole in my garden however due to a storm a while ago the antenna snapped (tree obviously moved more than I thought it would) and I'm due to replace it. Going to get a fibreglass pole and have it tied to that.

The antenna is a bought half size G5RV which claimed to be resonant on 10 metres, however due to a longer feeder it's now no longer a G5RV and just a dipole, but I can get the SWR right down on 20 metres with the internal ATU.

I'm about to order a proper ATU and a tigertronics signalink so I can do some digital modes. SSTV should be fun.
>>
>>1109677
Those are nice units, I've owned 2 FT-450d's. Xmit audio is fantastic. The first one I owned the knob quit working and had to replace the encoder. Second one I blew the finals somehow and have yet to fix it. AT the moment I'm running a Kenwood TS-480SAT but I want to get my Yaesu operational again.

Scored a ton on 10m DX on them! Of course these days 10m is a dummy load.

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I got a small granite surface plate so I could lap things as flat as I can with sandpaper, but now that I have it, one question comes to mind.

What adhesive should I use to fix sandpapers and such to the top such that it:
A. Leaves no residue when the sandpaper is removed, and
B. Can be spread on between the plate and sandpaper thinly and evenly so as not to overtly affect the flatness of the surface

I'm not a machinist or a measurements geek but still, nothing really comes to mind.
37 posts and 5 images submitted.
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You could probably get away with a layer of water and press down on it. Should stick decently well.
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>>1128728
This is what I do. Works best with fine sandpaper
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>>1128718
>using a surface plate to hold sandpaper down for "flatness"
Holy fuck no, you will destroy that poor plate. If all you need is something reasonably flat then use glass as a backing.

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Hello /diy/

Have any of you made a power rack for a homegym?

I'm worried that the materials will be costly.
37 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>1128492
PVC pipe reinforced with concrete, not that expensive.
>>
if you make it yourself it will cost you from 80€ to 120€ if you or some one you know has a ''welder,standing drill,lathe and some coloring spray''
The real problem is to get weights they cost alot : /
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>>1128549
He could make it out of wood. With solid joinery and decent wood, it would be just fine.

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I want to make a table out of a piece of laminated pine - 2100mm (82") long x 900mm (35") wide x 30mm (1") deep.

Panel weighs 29kgs (64 lbs). (Pic related)

Using these IKEA adjustable legs. http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/20266678/#/70264304

Would one leg in each corner be enough to support that length without bowing or do I need to add a leg in the middle as well?
14 posts and 5 images submitted.
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Pic is leg.
Only info I could find on the weight load for these legs is if they are used with an Ikea table top max load is 50kgs (110 lbs) all together.

I want to use the table in an art studio for general use/projects painting, drawing, stretching canvases so it won't have anything too heavy on it permanently but I would like to be able to apply pressure and not worry about the table collapsing.

Any thoughts on whether this seems feasible would be appreciated. I don't have the tools to do anything more complicated
>>
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>>1131272
1 inch? No. Get some timber and build a box frame under the table top. Set it back from the edges a few inches on each side and place the legs in the corners of the frame. Like picture related, bit don't have the legs touching the table top because they won't be part of the frame.
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>>1131294
>1 inch? No.
Do you say that because of the weight? or because it's going to sag in the middle?

I don't have the tools to build a frame etc. I'm just trying to do this in the most basic way possible. Thanks for the reply.

Just bought a house. When I went to change the air filter, this was in its place. I've never seen a filter like it.
Is it a reusable filter?
13 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1131266
something you might find in a window AC or dehumidifier, haven't come across one for a furnace before
>>
I'm just a simple country chicken but that may be a washable filter screen, not necessarily a filter. I have one similar on our window a/c unit but for a furnace you should have something thicker or with more filtration.

You can measure it and go to the hardware store, see if there's anything comparable.
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>>1131270
>>1131271

Right? Obviously the guy who lived here before me used it as his filter.
It fits well. Better than a normal filter. I'll hit the hardware store and see if they carry anything thinker.
Thanks for the response!

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I am making a fume hood / exhaust for airbrushing lacquer based paints indoors.

I have drafted this design. It is my understanding that placing the exhaust in the rear would be 'ideal,' however if given enough CFM from the fan, it won't matter. Placing the exhaust in the back also weakens the idea that the whole thing can be disassembled into itself for convenient storage.

Does anyone have any constructive criticism for this design? Thank you in advance.

Some ideas I have considered: placing the exhaust on the side to allow large square shaped thin LED lighting at the top since lighting is so important. The air filter will be a fiberglass filter due to the airflow being so high. I have also considered installing a permanent rotating plate in the bottom of the box to allow certain models or pieces to simply be spun to have ease of use, though most of my parts will be on alligator clips. Not included in this diagram, I believe I will install 2 switches, one for lights and one for the fan which is shown and will likely be modded into the unit itself for ease of use.
10 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1130682
I don't use a filter. I just have the dryer tube attached to the hood in the rear and the other end connected to an old microwave fan that is set into the window using cardboard. Lighting needs to run the other direction, fyi.
>>
>>1130682

>>1130733

ignore him, use a filter, if you dont lacquer/paint will build up on the blades and effect air movement, and offer a spark/flash hazard

also if you are using a standard fan from whatever ensure it is stable, as a steel on steel could cause sparks

have enough airflow to prevent fumes from accumulating to dangerous levels (depends on what your spraying and its VOCs) basically ensure you cant smell fumes after about 1 - 1 1/2 minutes after spraying, minor smell is fine as it would be coming from your work piece

the lights are fine as they are in the drawing, no point in having one laterally on the rear in a semi closed box, how will you see that side? you may need to add 2 more lights on the side to eliminate shadows. alternatively, have each light on a separate switch to CREATE shadows for the sanding phase, reducing the need for post-finishing.

if you can find lighting that supports bulbs that can put out UV light, UV light will warm your work piece slightly more than conventional light, speeding curing, doesnt need to be a special media, basically you need your work piece to absorb UV light (steel, wood etc, clear plastic does not), im prepared for a shitstorm over this, i argue with this with my coworkers (were painters painting farm equipment), there are UV cureable medias, but that is totally different.
>>
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>>1130759
>Spark hazard
Probably not a concern at airbrush volumes (unless OP plans on dousing the back of his booth with lacquer for funsies). I would use a filter with a looser weave over something like a HEPA, though; pro paint pockets are pretty porous.

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