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I am making a fume hood / exhaust for airbrushing lacquer based

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I am making a fume hood / exhaust for airbrushing lacquer based paints indoors.

I have drafted this design. It is my understanding that placing the exhaust in the rear would be 'ideal,' however if given enough CFM from the fan, it won't matter. Placing the exhaust in the back also weakens the idea that the whole thing can be disassembled into itself for convenient storage.

Does anyone have any constructive criticism for this design? Thank you in advance.

Some ideas I have considered: placing the exhaust on the side to allow large square shaped thin LED lighting at the top since lighting is so important. The air filter will be a fiberglass filter due to the airflow being so high. I have also considered installing a permanent rotating plate in the bottom of the box to allow certain models or pieces to simply be spun to have ease of use, though most of my parts will be on alligator clips. Not included in this diagram, I believe I will install 2 switches, one for lights and one for the fan which is shown and will likely be modded into the unit itself for ease of use.
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>>1130682
I don't use a filter. I just have the dryer tube attached to the hood in the rear and the other end connected to an old microwave fan that is set into the window using cardboard. Lighting needs to run the other direction, fyi.
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>>1130682

>>1130733

ignore him, use a filter, if you dont lacquer/paint will build up on the blades and effect air movement, and offer a spark/flash hazard

also if you are using a standard fan from whatever ensure it is stable, as a steel on steel could cause sparks

have enough airflow to prevent fumes from accumulating to dangerous levels (depends on what your spraying and its VOCs) basically ensure you cant smell fumes after about 1 - 1 1/2 minutes after spraying, minor smell is fine as it would be coming from your work piece

the lights are fine as they are in the drawing, no point in having one laterally on the rear in a semi closed box, how will you see that side? you may need to add 2 more lights on the side to eliminate shadows. alternatively, have each light on a separate switch to CREATE shadows for the sanding phase, reducing the need for post-finishing.

if you can find lighting that supports bulbs that can put out UV light, UV light will warm your work piece slightly more than conventional light, speeding curing, doesnt need to be a special media, basically you need your work piece to absorb UV light (steel, wood etc, clear plastic does not), im prepared for a shitstorm over this, i argue with this with my coworkers (were painters painting farm equipment), there are UV cureable medias, but that is totally different.
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>>1130759
>Spark hazard
Probably not a concern at airbrush volumes (unless OP plans on dousing the back of his booth with lacquer for funsies). I would use a filter with a looser weave over something like a HEPA, though; pro paint pockets are pretty porous.
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Fan on top is poor design. Below the container would be ideal and on the bottom rear is typical. Keep on mind, if you mount it on top it will require greater pressure to pull the paint up, so you'll need a more powerful fan if you make it that way.
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>>1130682
My suggestion - use a blower, not a bathroom fan. A leafblower costs the same as a good bathroom fan and will give you 4-6x the air flow.
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Cont - obv you can just buy a blower and wire it. I just went with leafblower BC I see them for $10 at rummage sales a lot.
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>>1131259
>>1131260

Aren't those MAD fucking loud???
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>>1131259
If you're going to go with a leafblower and become deaf you might as well just get a bilge blower. Marginally quieter, rated for fairly high pressures, high airflow, sealed (sometimes) motors, and of course CHEAP. Seriously, 30-40 bucks will get you a decent one new. If you're just doing short sessions a few times every few days then it'll probably last you a few years.
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>>1130682
When I made a spraybooth years ago now, I had the filter at the back of the stall and the draw-through coming from above it.
Reason being, that's basically where the paint particulate and fumes are pointed at and it leaves more room for overhead lighting, which is very important for picking up any imperfections.

Nothing really bad about your design, but its something to consider when making the cabinet
Thread posts: 10
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