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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 318. page

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Hi,
I would like to cover my apartment's windows with blinds. Pic related. Not to exact scale, but numbers are legit.
My question is, how would you go about installing the bars that the blinds will hang from?
The wall is very wide. Can't mount it inside the windows because there's not enough "depth". The only way I think it will work is by dividing the whole thing into three medium sized blind structures and attaching them to the ceiling somehow. Any suggestions how to approach this and what materials to get?
7 posts and 4 images submitted.
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what the fuck kind of apartment is this, windows with door in the fucking middle with no blinds

you need to move out, that shit of a place is obviously not for living in
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>>1093936
What length is A B, and C? Naturally, I am referring to the space between the moving parts.
Why can't you use normal blinds with the cheapest bog standard IKEA pole and mounting brackets?
>>
>>1093936
Do you want blinds or curtains?

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Good morning /diy/

I want to build an internet-connected display to track graphs and data from the internet. What sort of display would you recommend?

Personally, I don't want to use a traditional computer monitor because I'm afraid of the burn-in from being left on all the time.

On the other hand, LED displays aren't detailed enough to show graphs. So I was thinking of using an OLED display, which is detailed enough for my liking, but unfortunately not large enough. I'd prefer something about the size of a piece of paper.

Any thoughts?
10 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1093874
I can't imagine that an LCD would give you trouble with its relatively minor deficiency in detail. You'd get worse on a crt.
>>
>>1093874
>burn-in from
>thinking of using an OLED
LEDs have a burn-in because of their limited lifetime. Try LCD.
>>
LCD burn-in can be mitigated by flashing a checkered pattern across the screen. Maybe program your thing to use a checkered pattern as a screensaver? Or just flash it at odd hours when nobody is expected to see it?

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I got two big heatsinks for an old bitcoin miner, what is something I can use them for? I can't use them in an actual PC because I'm missing mobo mounts
27 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>1093262
...what do you own that requires heat removal?
>>
You should use it as a heatsink

Or you can sell it for scrap

Or you can shove it and this thread up your ass
>>
>>1093296
>Or you can shove it and this thread up your ass
how does one shove a thread up OPs ass?

does he print it out?
should he 3d print it and shove it rectally?

Hey guys, so /out/ sent me here because seems like you guys enjoy tiny container house projects. I have a few photos saved that I think you guys will enjoy.
18 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>/out/thread/903810
The thread in question.
>>
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The 1 foundry thread to eat the others. There is no need for 5 shitty repetitive foundry threads a week. AluminumFags get in here.

Everyone wanting to melt aluminum get the fuck in here. I'm done seeing the same bullshit questions so this thread will serve as the 27 foundry general threads and hopefully contain the bullshit. I am not master race caster by any means. But I am a Dickfarmer. I have spent a lot of money and time casting old beer cans and shit. Feel free to ama or correct any of this if you see an error.

The last video will save you a lot of time, money, and heartache.

Building the foundry: https://youtu.be/hHD10DjxM1g

Using the foundry: https://youtu.be/lSoWxG30rb0

Beginner sand casting: https://youtu.be/gIIDNLqAXmM

Does and dont's: https://youtu.be/l2FuvKTyRMQ

NOTE: I am in no way affiliated with or shilling for the King of Random (Grant Thomoson.) But this is how I learned. His videos are well put together and informative. Not to mention easy to follow and cheap wich is right up our ally.

After you have watched these 4 vids you are welcomed to what I am sure will be a shit show below. I will edit and correct as I see fit.

Random casting and forging video for fun.

https://youtu.be/lSoWxG30rb0
https://youtu.be/tH-PaNugz9w
https://youtu.be/VTzKIs19eZE
https://youtu.be/JIlZsuRc9jQ


As stated I am by no means a pro. But it seems like there are 4 of these threads a week full of people with no idea where to start. I have some experience. I can save you a lot of time and headache as I have been through it.

In short. Yes you can use sand and plaster. Yes it is brittle as fuck. No it won't last forever. But it is cheap. And a good beginner medium as refractory cement of good quality can run upwards of $70 a 55lb bag.

Cans are cheap or free. They are shit metal.

If you have a 4" diameter crucible then crushing them works well. If you have a 3" don't bother as you will fight even slightly dented cans.

1/2
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DO NOT USE NORMAL CONCRETE. Just don't. It can and will essentially explode. Refractory "cement" is a special blend of things and there are several dozen proven formulas on google.

Sand / green sand casting. YouTube and Google are your friends. 2 main types are water and oil bonded sand. I have used both. I find sand and bentonite with a little water to work almost as good if not just as well as petrobond. But mixing by hand is tedious and moisture content is a headache roller coaster where I live. Petrobond can be made at home or bought on amazon for sub $2 lb prices. I highly recommend this if you are doing small infrequent pours.

Crucible: any steel pipe will work but degrade and "flake" over time. It will eventually fail and it will contaminate your metal. I have never had much of a problem but I have also melted a 4 inch pipe collar and pipe using waste oil. So be careful. For ease of operation I just made up 4-4" diameter crucibles and use them for different metals and replacements when the others fail.

The propane tank "sectional" foundries seem to be the master race step up when you outgrow your flower pot foundry. (I started with a 5 gallon bucket and a hair dryer.)

Although my foundry in pic related is quite large it has many downfalls. The crucibles are large and heavy. They are narrow. And being that high on a trailer makes them difficult to remove safely. With the propane tanks you can remove the lid and the middle section if you need so that you can lift the crucible with tongs.

I have a clay graphite crucible that I am told is the best if you take proper care of it. I am still unsure how to do this and have not used it or even forged tools for it.

That's about all I have. Blog post aside anon's input is always welcome. Feel free to add cool vids or pics or info for future foundry general.

2/2
>>
There is a old copper foundry in canada that I visited once. It basically looks like a gaint brick oven on the inside. With a channel along the floor that leads to a spout that they kept plugged until ready to pour. On the other side was the firing section. Where they stacked coal and lit it. And there was a brick tunnel above the coal that fed the hot air into the copper to melt it. I've built a smaller scale one of these out of a stack of redbrick and got the inside hot enough with forced induction that I got a 1/2" round stock steel rod to go critical.. And this was without motar or anything just dicken around.
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>>1092922
Is cool indead. They likely used fire brick. I've done the math and you can buy the refractory and make your own custom sized for about 2/3 the cost. Still debating on my final design. I will probably kill my 2 propane tanks and gut my foundry of that shitty plaster. Weld it on the end of my forge for length. Have the foundry separate for rough casting brass handles and such

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Doing a stick and poke tattoo tomorrow, Any tips from people who have done or regularly do them?

I'm taking measures to make sure its sterile and stuff. I made a poker i can take pictures of if needed
18 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1092809
dont do it OP.
tats are degenerate
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>>1092811
k grandma
>>
>>1092811
Fuck this guy op
I've done tons of s&p tattoos, mostly with a hypodermic needle. Works great, just suck up some ink (not from a fuckin pen)
And go to town man

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What is the strongest type of brass?
I've been searching on google and from what Ive found it is either Red Brass or Naval Brass.
Also Questions that do not deserve their own thread thread.
41 posts and 11 images submitted.
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>>1092544
beryllium copper
>inb4 not brass
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>>1092598
>beryllium copper
>becu
>not copper beryllium
>cube
Their brand logo could even be a cube of some sort. They fucked it all up.
>>
>>1092544
To the best of my knowledge red should be the strongest, though I'm just comparing by elemental makeup

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hello /diy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JusrHgiBUKA

I've wanted to make one of these for a very long time now. I have no electronic experiance in terms of components, breadboard etc but I can solder to a reasonable level.
I understand the principle of this key board but do not know where to begin in terms of components or wiring.

could any kind anon, draw for me a brief schematic in idiots terms of three or 4 notes (I can then repeat the process through the octaves)
its basically I need the tapes motor to run at specific speeds when a different note on the keyboard. Ill need to tune all of the different speed to their respective tones on the keyboard.

any advice would be appreciated. thanks lads.
Ive got a fw old pallets lying around
19 posts and 6 images submitted.
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I have a 9 volt moter to test with
various capacitors
various potentiometers
wire
beer
hope
>>
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>>1092521
pls
>>
Not sure what you mean by a schematic of notes, but here's a link to the frequencies of each note through the octaves.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwiGk-WR6dTQAhWk7YMKHXgWAq0QFggcMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.liutaiomottola.com%2Fformulae%2Ffreqtab.htm&usg=AFQjCNEpobKB8z4Nk_qlAC1a9zvV7F9W-A&sig2=LYK809C-L6l64W_iWGgF7A&bvm=bv.139782543,d.amc

Start with your low note, then Increase speed in the same ratio as the wavelength increases between each note, or throw a potentiometer in there to find each consecutive note with a tuner next to the setup to do it without using maths. Or google, I did a quick search and found tons of people's mellotron builds, one of them has to have a tuning guide ready to go for you.

That's all I got, OP.

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So after a fight over phone data between a shared plan, my girlfriends brother locked one cat in his room and somehow got the other one to climb in the ceiling before proceeding to go out and get plastered. After saving the cat from the ceiling, were hoping no permenant damage was done due to fibreglass inhalation. However in the meantime i want to get back at this abusive asshole. Does anyone know how to synthisize fake cat urine so i can dump it all over his room?
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>>1092385
Is that really how you think you should handle the situation? If her brother was so pissed, your gf was probably streaming over 4G when there was a perfectly good WiFi connection available. Get that bitch in line, faggot.
>>
>>1092385
how many tons do you need? A third, perhaps?
>>
>>1092385
You're a cuck, you should enjoy her strap-on instead of whinning.

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For a multitude of reasons I want to move the condenser.
I asked an AC guy to come and take a look and the situation is like this:
Unit needs 40A breaker, the electrical panel has a 60A and because of that there's another 40A fuse outside.
Unit needs 7/8 tubing, but the previous owner (when he changed/updated the system), kept the old 3/4 tubing.
Unit needs 8 gauge cable but it has 10 (it's very close to the panel and on the north (always shaded) side of the house).
Basically amateurish job that works relatively ok.
He quoted me 1500 including a new set of tubing (right size), 8 gauge cable and the right breaker but because the new location requires drawing the cable and the tubing behind walls/in the ceiling, he said I'll have to help him (plus the 1500). It's the beginning of winter so no rush.
>bought the tubing myself
>cut the holes in the drywall
>pulled the tubing all the way (using elbows, not bending the tube)
>installed a new breaker,
>pulled a 6 gauge wire (for like $10 more, why not be on the safe side)
basically everything beside emptying the system, cutting the connections, moving the unit, connecting everything back, charging the system
for what's left, I was quoted ~500$
Now ... is there any place I can rent some equipment to do that myself?
How hard is it?
Is it worth buying the equipment?
How bad would it be just to release the refrigerant in the air (instead of recovering it) and just get a cheap manifold and a tank of refrigerant?
31 posts and 6 images submitted.
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on another thread there's a story of a farmer fined $12,000 for flying a drone over his fields to check his crops. same thing could happen to you for doing unlicensed electrical and refrigerant work.
>>
>>1091964
Even if it's done up to code (unlike the previous work)?
>>
>>1091941
what's the refrigerant type? R22? $$$$$$$$$

what state are you in? in TX i don't think they give a fuck what you do

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>Construction/Maintenance/Residential/Commercial/Industrial

What are the pros and cons of the different branches of the electrical trade?
30 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1090706

Maintenance as in institutional? Like at a college or hospital or school system?

Not an electrician but I have had two institutional stints and because I was mostly low voltage I worked with the electrician plenty. All maintenance/institutional have incredible benefits. Health insurance, retirement, PTO, etc. Also a rather relaxed and mostly stress free setting. Hectic times and emergencies, sure, but the rest of the time is PMs and CMs with decent time frame expectations.

I can't speak on the pay but that dude drove a fucking Benz to work some days. Other days he took public transportation. He was an odd cat. Never heard him once complain about pay though. He only bitched that they wouldn't let him take all his PTO at one time - but he bitched up the corporate ladder and was able to.

I also helped out a guy that owned his own electrical company and he did mostly renovations. That was also very relaxed work. We completely rewired many houses in under a day. Decent pay, no benefits. I would assume that's standard with smaller electrical companies. I know there are many outfits in town with 20+ electricians on staff and I guarantee those guys had benefits.

If you're fine with working out of a truck, mobile work, commercial or residential, is fun. I definitely enjoy the change of scenery - you're always learning.
>>
Industrial pays the best, and has way more types of equipment to work on. Harder to get into though, and alot of it is away from home.

Commercial, I hope you like running EMT.

Residential is easiest to get a foot int he door, after a year though you'll pretty much know enough to wire any house you'll ever run into.
>>
>>1090713
Yeah, hospitals/universities/schools is what I was talking about. What you're saying sounds about right, here in Canada those are basically government jobs, which means slightly lower pay (although you'll hardly be broke), but great benefits and rock solid job security. It seems like there is a lot of that work available, especially if you are willing to relocate to a smaller city.

>>1091001
Is it common for a new electrician to start out doing residential or construction work and then move into industrial? The trade school program I am registered for seems to be structured that way,

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Hee yo, I've just bought a phantom 3 but I'm not quite happy with the range,.. does anyone of you has an idea how I could extend it?
38 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>1090627
Put it back in the box, return it for a refund, and buy something that doesn't annoy other people and invade their privacy.
>>
If you control it from a single place (your house, your backyard), just put an antenna there. Doesn't even need to be that big. If you want to extend the range on-the-fly (control from a bunch of places), you'll have to switch some internal components, and I don't recommend it. Don't do those diy shit you find online with foil paper or directional antenna, it'll just make the drone heavier or harder to fly.

If the FCC comes knocking on your door, grab your shotgun and shoot them.
>>
>>1090627
Get another drone and replace the camera with a repeater and fly behind the first one- you'll double the range.

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Anything i can do creative with these? Found a bunch of them
47 posts and 8 images submitted.
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>>1089803
nothing, you cannot do anything creative, there is nothing you can do
>>
Bumpin for second opinion FAAAm
>>
>>1089815
Arse insert

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Anything and everything to do with (non-metal) casting; molds, epoxies, silicones, etc.
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To start off the thread: I've been needing to find a good casting material which doesn't require special equipment (respirator, vacuum chamber, etc).

A lot of the materials I've found are meant specifically/only for casting thin jewelry or similar objects. I need a clear epoxy or resin that I can use to make deep casts - 3+ cm deep that won't break the bank. None of the ones I've tried so far have worked well or fast enough. There's always too many bubbles or it takes days to cure. Any suggestions?
>>
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So I'm the same guy who made the blue crystals from the last thread. I got my hands on some East Coast resin from a friend of mine and decided to try it out.

Results: Mildly inconclusive.

I've been using the same kind of mold as I did for the other cast (Silicone I), and it turns out it does not like heat. I put all of these in the oven after I finished cooking something and came back an hour later - quite honestly glad I didn't catch this defect in time, because otherwise I wouldn't have known about it.
>>
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>>1089307
The silicone deformed and is no longer flat on the bottom, but is mostly flat on the casting surface; however, it's still completely unusable now.

The top of the epoxy cured hard and smooth, but the rest has an unimaginable amount of bubbles and has the look and feel of very coarse pumice, but very fragile. I don't know what failed first, the silicone or the cast, but it's obvious that I can't heat-cure this epoxy (at least not at such a high temperature).

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>>1081026 - last

pastebin.com/9UgLjyND

>I'm new to electronics, where do I get started?
There are several good books and YouTube channels that are commonly recommended for beginners and those wanting to learn more, many with advanced techniques. The best way to get involved in electronics is just to make stuff. Don't be afraid to get your hands dirty.

>What books are there?

Beginner:
Getting Started in Electronics Forrest Mims III
Make: Electronics Charles Platt
How to Diagnose and Fix Everything Electronic Michael Jay Greier

Intermediate:
All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide: Kybett, Boysen
Practical Electronics for Inventors: Paul Scherz and Simon Monk

Advanced:
The Art of Electronics by Paul Horowitz

>What YouTube channels are there?
https://www.youtube.com/user/mjlorton
https://www.youtube.com/user/paceworldwide
https://www.youtube.com/user/eevblog
https://www.youtube.com/user/EcProjects
https://www.youtube.com/user/greatscottlab
https://www.youtube.com/user/mikeselectricstuff
https://www.youtube.com/user/AfroTechMods
https://www.youtube.com/user/Photonvids
https://www.youtube.com/user/sdgelectronics
https://www.youtube.com/user/TheSignalPathBlog

>What websites feature electronics projects or ideas?
http://adafruit.com
http://instructables.com/tag/type-id/category-technology/
http://makezine.com/category/electronics/

>Where do I get components and lab equipment from?
digikey.com
jameco.com
sparkfun.com
ramseyelectronics.com
allelectronics.com
futurlec.com
ladyada.net/library/procure/hobbyist.html
mouser.com
alliedelec.com
newark.com
ebay.com

>What circuit sim software do you use?
This mostly comes down to personal preference. These are the most common ones though:
NI Multisim
LTSpice
CircuitLab
iCircuit for Macs

>What software should I use to layout boards?
Circuit Wizard
ExpressPCB
EAGLE
KiCad
310 posts and 59 images submitted.
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>>1087810
How to look like a super l337 hacker in 3 easy steps
Step 1. buy an analog oscilloscope
Step 2. buy a logic/spectrum analyzer
Step 3. turn both on, then turn the lights in your room off
>>
>>1087818
step 4. make a useless led cube
>>
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Doesn't anyone remember this company?

They were selling a neural network ASIC called the CM1K. It was a computer with no instruction set. Also they had a very interesting feature where they could be daisy chained together as long as you wanted.

I bought a usb devkit they were selling on digikey months ago because it was also very cool but they never shipped it. On digikey only one order backlogged (mine). Can't find any hobbyists on the internet who ever had one.

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