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Hey /diy/
Im currently making a few guitar pedals for my collection, and im really excited about how theyre coming out. The etches look fantastic, and Ive made good progress with the tagboard and PCBs. I feel like a babby engineer fitting everything.
I was wondering if there are any DIY synthesizers out there that are simple so I can start building stuff for bassy background stuff, all weird n wobbly. Heres an example.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?vk=5FW8QYt6bio
Obviously it doesnt have to be this complicated. But does anyone know if theres a website online specializing in breadboard / vero synthesizer schematics and design plans? Like the tagboardeffects blogspot,
Cheers. pic unrelated new hdd
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>>1113487
Link doesn't seem to work
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Bumb
Ids relebent do muh indreds
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>>1113492
I apologize. For some reason this computer i refurbished has a lot of odd issues.
here you are
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FW8QYt6bio
thank you
I'm starting a project using logic gates for the first time and I can't figure out why my AND gate always gives a HIGH output regardless of the input.
Any thoughts?
*voltage is regulated from 9v-->5v
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Here's the gate's info
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>>1113455
you dont have Vcc or Gnd connected to your AND chip
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>>1113459
I don't? Aren't the yellow and blue the ground and the Vcc (bottom left and top right of the chip)?
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I am trying to build a device to jam terrestrial TV signal with in a 10 meter/33 foot range specifically these frequencies https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Australian_and_New_Zealand_television_frequencies#AU_.26_NZ_PAL_.26_DTV_Allocation
Firstly I thought about using a programmable UHF radio to broadcast over the signal but as far as I know they cannot be tuned into the same frequencies TVs use.
I built the device in the picture with a 7404 TTL Hex Inverter IC, a 60 - 160pF tuning capacitor and a 9v power source but it only works on FM radio.
Finally I tried using a masthead amplifier connected to my roof antenna on the input and connected an indoor antenna on the output and turned the UHF and VHF gain up to max as far as I can tell this does absolutely nothing.
So my questions are, is it even possible without high tech expensive equipment and does anyone know of a better method I could try?
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Just like to add a correction, the 7404 chip does work it's just really weak and my TVs tuner seems to filter out the noise after a second so I have to keep readjusting the the tuning capacitor.
Is power the only way to ramp it up?
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>>1113427
this shit will jam a lot more then just the TV, the resulting signal is full of harmonics.
Also, as you have found out - it's very weak.
You'll be better off looking at ebay/aliexpress and buying yourself either a purpose-built jammer or a programmable RF module that can tune to the desired frequency.
Last but not least - this shit is probably illegal even in NZ, if you get reported and found, expect a hefty fine.
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Breadboards and v/uhf is a bad idea.
One channel is plausible but all of them would be a lot harder.
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I'm going to be doing an inlay for the first time in a few weeks, and I don't have a router. I don't really want to drop $300 on something I'll only use a few times, so I was wondering what my best option is?
Is there an attachment I can get for a regular drill to use it as a router? Or would I be better off just using chisels and a dremel?
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>>1113405
Depends on how much inlay work you have, OP. Are you looking for an excuse to buy a router, and need us to back you up for the wife? If so: Buy the router! It's 100% worth it! If not: no way man, save your money, take your wife out to eat and show her you care, use the knife and chisels!
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Buy it, use it for what you need, then return it to the store and tell them it stopped working.
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>>1113405
>I don't really want to drop $300 on something I'll only use a few times, so I was wondering what my best option is?
Buy one of the many ~50$ routers out there?
Buy a used one at a pawn shop for 20$?
You must not have looked around very hard if you could only find 300$ kits
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Can you replace an alkaline battery with a lithium if they are the same voltage?
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>>1113391
Obviously
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>>1113396
Evidently not, since he asked.
OP: Lithium vs. alkaline is the chemistry used to generate the electricity in the battery. The only thing that matters for most electronic devices is the voltage.
Powerful electrical equipment sometimes needs a high amperage supply, but you'll generally not worry about that sort of thing with batteries.
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>>1113391
>if they are the same voltage?
It works better if they're also the same size.
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Any stopwatch recommendations? I need one with a long battery life that can be used for 10 hours per day at the most.
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Any with a standard lcd screen can work for years indefinitely
Think about it this way. Your standard Casio terrorist watch uses no more power when it enters its stop watch mode and it lasts for 5+years on a single battery
Go to amazon and get the one with the best reviews under $10
All of them will be quartz crystal based meaning they all will be significantly more accurate than your reaction time
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>>1113527
the classic Casio F91W
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casio_F-91W
i had one in middle/highschool, very reliable, i don't think i ever remember replacing the battery.
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Guys, it has to work for 10 hours per day AT MOST. It needs to have a built-in cutoff switch to ensures it cannot function longer than that each day.
OP- sounds like you need to read books on electronics and programming. Also get yourself a 3D printer and a few Arduinos and Raspberry Pi's. You'll figure it out. Post results.
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What do you guys think of my mouse trap idea?
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A lil racy but i like it my dude
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>>1113293
>CO2 not Zyklon B (hydrogen cyanide)
>no coke burning furnace
eins/zehn
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>>1113293
where is matthias?
Anonymous
Changing LED color on GPU 2017-01-12 03:05:33 Post No.1113282
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Changing LED color on GPU 2017-01-12 03:05:33 Post No.1113282
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I have a 1080 SLI setup and I'm going for a black and white build. I'd like to remove the green from the GPU's and I know about the method of scraping off the green using sandpaper but that voids the warranty.
My other idea is to use some sort of optics and glass to make the green appear white.
For example getting some sort of plastic with the right hue to neutralize the green making it white. It could be cut into the dimensions of the lettering and secured onto the card.
It's just an idea and I'm not sure where to start. If anyone has any experience with this let me know or point me in the right direction.
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Your GPU is surely using a green LED. Sanding the green tinted plastic won't make the green light white. Neither is it possible to "filter out the green". All you have is green light to start with; filter that out and you have no light.
One option that might work is applying white phosphor paint. It will glow white when hit with any colour of light; but I believe they only react strongly to UV.
You'll probably have to desolder the green LED, solder in a white one, and sand off the tinted plastic.
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After watching a video of someone doing that sanding-to-white mod, I'm inclined to believe that the other guy is wrong and it's actually a white LED back there. If you're really completely unwilling to irreversibly alter your GPU, I think your only options are either to cover up the logos entirely (tape, construction paper, plastic, get creative) or remove the LED assembly, disassemble it, and replace the front cover with one that has no tint. The latter option may still end up voiding warranty (hidden warranty stickers getting ripped, I dunno?), so if I were you and I really wanted to keep warranty I would just cover up those LEDs.
As for a filter, the other guy is right; all you've really got is green light and you need all the colors in the visible light spectrum to make white light, so you can't really shift the colors or anything.
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>>1113282
you need red, green, and blue to make white
you already have green
find some nonlinear materials or combination of materials to convert green to red and green to blue
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I just bought a fairly high-powered drill, a Milwaukee M18 Fuel. Now for a few hours today I was drilling into fixed metal sheets with no problem, but when I started drilling through a loose sheet and into the fixed ones (each sheet maybe 1/16" thickness) the drill stopped turning the bit AFTER successfully drilling the hole.
The bit was barely pinched, sure, but it was nothing my old M18 Compact Drill couldn't have done. I had the drill set to 'drill' mode, not screw (so the variable torque setting wouldn't have affected it) and was drilling on speed 1 (it's a two-speed, 1 is slow and 2 is fast.)
Any ideas why? What was I doing wrong, I don't understand why the drill wouldn't just put the full torque into the bit to get it out.
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3 thoughts:
1) battery voltage got low and cut out (by design)
2) the motor got hot and the control circuit cut out (by design)
3) summin done got fucked
Is it working since? Try charging it?
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TWIST HARDER!
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>>1113257
On the final moment that the drill punches the hole the bit can cut threads into the last of the steel that still hasn't been chipped out. When this happens with a powerful corded drill it will try to twist your arm off or smack you in the ribs. The bit stops but the drill keeps going. The brains in the milwaukee probably detected a spike in resistance and cut off as a safety feature. Try this; once you've made it through to the other side, but not finished the hole, pull the drill out a little, really get it spinning fast and then jam it through with some force. It should blow out the last remaining metal without binding.
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What is the easiest way to clean this paper shit off ?
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>>1113091
a floor scarper.
try getting it wet.
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Excuse the sideways photos my shitty phone has autismo (or maybe its me)
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So, I am going to be tasked with making benches for my daughter's school. These benches will live outside all year, in QC, under a roof. The school currently has a few of PIC related on the left. These are functional but we need more.
My question : is there any advantage to using the design on the left over the design on the right. I'm specifically interested in stability. Obviously the 90 degree legs are easier to build. I'd set up a jig so that the angled design would be just as easy.
The benches are 8 feet long.
Now I suck at this kind of problems.
On the one hand, I feel it's harder to tip over a square cylinder then a triangular cylinder, right? So the design on the right is more stable.
On the other hand, the center of mass is at the same place in both designs and the point of rotation would be at the same place, so neither is more stable.
Except this last isn't true as one would have to rotate the bench further bring the center of mass farther past the vertical of the legs... (does this even make sense?)
TL;DR - which design in pic is more stable, left or right?
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Rough measurements : 20" wide, 18" high, 6' long.
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>>1113053
everything you said dont make any sense, just make it square like the left
right is weak because the leg will snap the moment a kid jumps on it
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>>1113055
>everything you said dont make any sense
OK :-(
>right is weak because the leg will snap the moment a kid jumps on it
I actually hadn't thought of that issue. Right is sexier, left is strong.
Anonymous
Bells - Doing the Making of Them, Oneself 2017-01-11 03:08:16 Post No.1112978
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Bells - Doing the Making of Them, Oneself 2017-01-11 03:08:16 Post No.1112978
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Bells - Doing the Making of Them, Oneself
Anonymous
2017-01-11 03:08:16
Post No. 1112978
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how?
what?
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>>1112978
literally just make a bell shape out of any material that rings
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>>1112978
Mix up a quick batch of bronze, pour in mold... wa la...bell...
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>>1112978
Use proper bell metal, it's n alloy of copper and arsenic.
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Hello diy, im working on making some cardboard furniture. So far it's looking good, but im worried that it may lose shape and resistance as it gets pressed, i wanted to know what would be the best way to fill in these little cracks between the cardboard with something that fills in everyspace but dries into something hard.
I was thinking of maybe using very liquid plaster but do you have any other suggestions?
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> suggestions?
Yeah stop killing other threads and bump your first one.
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>>1113059
ok but any ideas?
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>>1112971
expanding foam
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Hey /diy/ new to this board, as well as /fit/, trying to better myself now a days and am fixing things around the house.
I need to remove this top part but I'm not sure if there is a way to take off the old piece and replace it with my new one. Or if I should cut the pipe off at the top and cut again somewhere else to extend it back to its original hight and add my new piece onto the freshly cut part.
Any thoughts, tips, and/or advice would be appreciated. Thanks fellas
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That's pvc, right? if it's glued, it's not coming apart, gonna have to get yourself a PVC cutter (or a small sawzall I guess) and cut it.
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>>1112775
PVC and glue is cheap
Cut it back and glue a new piece in
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>>1112777
Hacksaws make quick work of it
My parents have a leaky copper pipe vampire compression fitting that goes to their fridge, and humidifier.
I am being tasked with replacing it for a proper fitting. What supplies do I need?
I have a pipe cutter, a propane torch, sand paper, 3.2mm solder wire, and flux.
What else do I need?
cleaning brush
acid etch (or does the flux do the same thing)
pipe fitting
pipe adapter
Will a blue can propane burner work, or does it need to be yellow can stuff?
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>>1112671
Blue propane will work.
Cut the old fitting out and sweat a tee in its place. Add a ball valve and what ever fitting you need to go to the humidifier, etc.
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>>1112671
Depends on what you call "a proper fitting."
I generally use compression fittings rather than solder. Properly done they are just as good.
You need a reamer or just a decent pocket knife to take off the inner leftovers from using a cutter. Other than that you are there.
If it's anywhere close to something flammable (like wood, insulation, etc) get something to shield that.
Brush up on youtube for how to flow the joint. Lots of good examples there.
Oh.. and turn off the water before cutting the pipe. :) I know that seems stupid to say but I watched someone cut a pipe without turning off the water main.
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>>1112671
I've never heard of a vampire compression fitting in my life. If that is pic related, that is janky as fuck. So you drill a hole in the main, clamp that over the hole and it feeds that take-off? Fuck that.
If I envisioned correctly your scenario, here's what I'd need to do that job
Map gas torch
95/5 solder
flux (with acid brush)
sandcloth (sandpaper)
cutter/portaband
fitting brush (for ID of tee and 90)
sweat tee (the size of the main, with reducing bull, or add a reducing fitting)
possibly sweat 90?
I'd need to see a picture to go beyond that.