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filling plaster gaps

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Thread replies: 37
Thread images: 4

File: cardboard gaps.jpg (178KB, 500x300px) Image search: [Google]
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Hello diy, im working on making some cardboard furniture. So far it's looking good, but im worried that it may lose shape and resistance as it gets pressed, i wanted to know what would be the best way to fill in these little cracks between the cardboard with something that fills in everyspace but dries into something hard.
I was thinking of maybe using very liquid plaster but do you have any other suggestions?
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> suggestions?

Yeah stop killing other threads and bump your first one.
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>>1113059
ok but any ideas?
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>>1112971
expanding foam
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>>1113081
will expanding foam get inside the little cracks of the cardboard, i want it to be completely solid
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Use sage filler.
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>>1112971

>fill with cement
>spray with garden hose
>leave in sun

Alternatively get some fucking lumber and make actual furniture. Most domestic hardwoods are relatively cheap.
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>>1112971

There is nothing that's going to penetrate all the way through holes with aspect ratios that high that won't also turn the cardboard to mush before it sets.

It'd be much more practical to just put some kind of facing material on it to serve as a wear surface, instead.

But, at that point, you might as well not be using cardboard at all.
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>>1113245
>Alternatively get some fucking lumber and make actual furniture.
Making something out of wood requires a lot more effort and know how. Also more expensive, not a lot but noticeable.

This is a recipe so that an extreme poor fag can have furnitures. It's like insanely cheap, you can build a wall full of bookshelves for the cost of a can of vynilic glue, everything else is literally free
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>>1113255
wouldnt plaster come at least close to what i want? like, fill it considerably at least?
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>>1113303
plaster is wet

enjoy your soggy cardboard
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>>1113303

No. Cardboard is stupid primarily as it has almost no structural integrity and decays especially when wet. You want a fibreglass reinforced concrete table top which is what you're essentially doing at this point and doesn't have the structural issues of either cardboard or plaster. Fibreglass and cement are also cheaper than your inferior materials you keep harping on as well, ffs!
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>>1113310
>>>1113303 (You)
>plaster is wet
>enjoy your soggy cardboard
yes but if terethicaly it dries it will become solid, right?
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>>1113310
Also, no mater how vulnerable it is it will be protected by a layer of very strong paper mache
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File: cardboard armchair 1.jpg (97KB, 1200x894px) Image search: [Google]
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>>1112971
I think you are asking the wrong question

I think you should ask something along the lines of "how can I build super cheap stuff with limited resources" or "how can I it stronger" or something as I think there is some disconnected here.

Also like >>1113255 said those holes are very long and tiny, so getting something to saturate them is much harder then it sounds. At that point one my just soak the cardboard in some kind of watery glue (low viscosity) and kind of model it, (watered down wood glue, maybe?) trying not to bend across the "grain" as that would weaken it.

the orientation of these channels are very important for strength.

also google more
https://diy.org/skills/cardboarder/challenges/1351/make-cardboard-furniture

>>1113299
Yes, I have thought of that. I work at a grocery store and we have cardboard display units. Some of which are surprisingly strong, a few of these cardboard shelves are rated for 50lb, not huge but good enough to be useful for some things.

Also the boxes are made with different cardboard, many have manufactures crush ratings on them. Some crush at 10lb others 40lb.

Given my experience in dealing with composites I am confidant that you could make some decent furniture with cardboard if you deign it right. But given the time and effort, and fire hazard concern, it is likely more practical to make it out of wood or buy something from a store. Ikea and walmart carry cheap stuff that can get the job done, just inspect it as it can be a mixed bag.

Also if you just want a simple cheap shelf, cinderbolcks and wood beams have shown to be nice.

But really any of these are likely going to cost more then you think, so look around then just get something. I know that is not the best DIY answer, but sometimes buying is better then making sadly given how cheap factories can build stuff over us.
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>>1113334
oh ya, if you are nice and the grocery store workers feel generous. You can snag a good amount of free cardboard.

Most retailers (not just grocery stores) dispose of all the boxes the stuff comes in, and that adds up to a lot of cardboard.
Some great others junk.
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>>1113334
i get it that if theres gonna be empty spaces then you have to orient the cardboard very carefuly, but couldnt i just past a billion layers of cardboard into a solid cube with the cells pointing up and then just cut the rough shape of the couch, give it a smooth finish with paper mache reinforced with some kind of plastic material and then on top of that just add the pillow which is basically a couple of pieces of plastic sewn together with a lot of filling in between and some kind of system to make sure its fixed to the solid part, it could probably just be tied
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>>1113341
yes, that seems sound.
Just select the nicer cardboard.

Also you might want to cut to a template before joining as that kind of block cardboard is much harder to cut then is seems.

I recall using some kind of spay can glue years ago, that would be nice for putting the layers together. But really glue selection is one of those refining details, I would have to read up on again. Just about anything should work but it can make a long term difference to select the right one.
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>>1113351
i was thinking on using this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyvinyl_acetate

i think its know as carpenters glue, in my experience its insanely strong, i once fixed the neck of a guitar by just joining the parts with that and letting it dried, it still holds on today even with the tension of the strings.
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>>1113355
That was actually my first pick, there maybe some better stuff but that would take time looking I tend to be over selective as I have seen some crazy tech alternatives which are less practical give rarity and cost. Also wood glue is very wood/paper compatible.

I know it can be watered down to soak in to hard to reach places. As extra bonding at half strength on a place you can't reach, is still extra bonding. But would use at full concentration when able.

Also a disposable paint brush could help for the wide area applications, as smearing lines evenly is annoying.
>>
Holy shit this forced meme. But seriously, I love that you're actually trying to make a real /diy/ thing instead of just going HAVE YOU THOUGHT ABOUT USING CARDBOARD? in every thread. You're a fucking retard, but it's a good thought experiment, get people thinking about how to solve some problems, maybe think of something they wouldn't otherwise. And then probably never need that knowledge, but still.

Watered down PVA glue would be my first choice, for cost, strength, and ease of use. I'd actually be really curious to see how well a very thinned down high hardness silicone would work as well. Boiled linseed oil would also be an interesting one, half because you'll burn down your fucking cardboard shit hovel, and half because I want to know how well it would strengthen cardboard.

My guess would be that PVA would be the go-to for structural, and silicone fill would be a great thing for places like chair seats, where it could afford some give to make it comfy, and it could help let it wear down gracefully, since it would just wear down to silicone. BLO for surface finish, since it'll help waterproof and slightly harden things.
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>>1113365
so, to ensure its a solid block i should like press it as hard as i can until it doesn't compress anymore, right? but then again we are talking about a truly insane amount of cardboard. lets say that the cross section is aproximately 1mx0.8m and that the lenght of the couch is like 1.5m, and the widht of the cardboard its at most half a centimeter or 0.005m, thats about 300 sections of cardboard but i have to add 10% more because once compressed it will get smaller. So thats 330 sections of 1x0.8m, that's 264square meters of cardboard.

I will no doubt use a lot of different boxes, so lets say that the average cardboard box has 0.6m2 of cardboard, that means that i would need 440 boxes.

If i go scavenging twice per week and each time bring in 10 boxes, it will take me about half a year to gather this much cardboard. and i dont have a car it will have to be all by hand, this really worries me.

im legit concerned about how my neighbours will see me, if i can get a cool couch by the end of it then it will be worth it, but until then i will be crazy cardboard hoarder mcjoe, and if for dont reason i dont succed i will become crazy cardboard hoarder mcjoe with a shitty mess of cardboard and glue in his living room.

this is a legit concern for me haha
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>>1113377
>You're a fucking retard, but it's a good thought experiment
mr dubs, im 100% legit non ironically gonna attempt to do this, it may take some time but imma gonna attempt it, remember this, i will eventually post my results here even if i fail
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>>1113377
>BLO
is blo bondo?
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>>1113379
>im 100% legit non ironically gonna attempt to do this
Yeah, like I said.

>>1113380
Boiled linseed oil. It's an oil that eventually dries up and hardens, but as it cures, it's an endothermic reaction, so it heats up. Buncha surface area(Like porous cardboard) means buncha heat. Also, it's flammable. That worry about oily rags spontaneously igniting? That's a thing because of boiled linseed oil specifically.
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>>1113382
>Boiled linseed oil. It's an oil that eventually dries up and hardens, but as it cures, it's an endothermic reaction, so it heats up. Buncha surface area(Like porous cardboard) means buncha heat. Also, it's flammable. That worry about oily rags spontaneously igniting? That's a thing because of boiled linseed oil specifically.
well that kinda discards it, i obviously don't need to add more fire hazards to this. Once the whole thing is done i will coat it in papel mache mixed with plaster sand it to hell for a smooth look and then paint it with a couple of hands of heat resistant paint
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>>1113384
It's only bad while it cures, after it's dry it's fine. Test a piece in a safe spot, and if you can't finish curing it, just cover it in water. You need a warm place to cure it in any reasonable time, when my garage is 50, I can leave an oily paper towel in a metal bucket for weeks before it cures. $20 infrared thermometer if you want to check temps and make sure it isn't heating up much.
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>>1113378
I don't think you want to compress it that much. once the cardboard deforms it actually creates micro tears in the fiber structure, thus weakening it a little. You just want good bonding, and too much pressure will push out the glue too much. Just nice firm press from one side to push out air, then an few slides to insure even spreading (although how the glue is applied is also a big part of that).

Honda actually had a huge engineering problem with that when they started to automatically gluing things in their cars years ago, very cool story. They ended up mixing glass beads into the glue so the bonding thickness would not change when the high speed robot arm slammed the part together. And slowing the arm down actually slowed production and cost way more on the arms wear and tear, so glass beads it was.

I don't know what to say about the other parts of this. I think that is a more personal motivation thing, everyone life is different.
I know I want to build some mad stuff, and once I have space I will regardless of options. Because darn it if I have fun and build a complex toy that can withstand ANY abuse with full ISO documentation then I think people have to respect that madness on some level once it is done, getting there ... well ya I an crazy but that is not new.
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>>1113394
>I think people have to respect that madness
YES, that's what i want, i want to equip all of my house with cardboard or DIY wood furniture and tell them how little money it costed and then when they see its all comfy and looks good and shit, and that i used all the spare money i had to buy god tier electronics im gonna feel alpha A F
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>>1113724
Except your neighbor probably spent that time at a real job and can afford both
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>>1114041
We get it, you were raised that you have to keep up with the Jone's in order to feel important.
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>>1113355
Yes it's strong, but if they used something that dried with a bit more rigidity to actually add a thin layer of structural integrity, then the complaints about cardboard softening with wear would be addressed. Perhaps resin?
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>>1112971
Don't use corrugated cardboard you domp. You need to use carton, if anything. Watch others who have succeeded and learn from their mistakes and successes. Corrugated cardboard works in certain directions for a limited amount of time.

Asking how to make it an all purpose diy material from a specialized one is like asking how to use a scalpel to turn a torx screw. I suppose it's possible, but it's easier, quicker, cheaper and less bothersome to just find out what tools and materials are the most useful.

Sage.
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What happend to the spirit of diy? If a man wants to build a spaceship from catdboards you help him damit why discorage a mans creativity.
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>>1115218
Well he's not building a spaceship for one.
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File: betterthancardboard.jpg (122KB, 1024x636px) Image search: [Google]
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Ready to start seeing these threads replaced with papier mache furniture threads. This has actually been done in a high-quality professional capacity. Planning out a couch at the moment myself.
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>>1115225
Yeah hes making furniture if i asked for help on how to make furniture out of laminated fabric peices i wouldnt want shitpost saying use wood
Thread posts: 37
Thread images: 4


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