Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 270. page

wouldn't change a thing
looks perfect - just build it as you have it planned

keep us posted on how well it works, anon

>>1119181
Seconded. That sketch and your description match up pretty well with the beast humming away in grandma's living room. My diy gramps built it in 2008. Still works.

If there's animal hair maybe having an initial coarse filter would be good.

Look at what people are doing for air filtering in China. They seem to use big loud fans though.

>>1119074
That is the standard fix. Also, using real wood instead of particle board helps.

>Specifically with IKEA shelves and such, that you can't install this on.
Right, because they are shit. Particle board, MDF, whatever. Don't buy garbage if you don't want garbage.

>>1119079
Except it happens with real wood too.

So basically, you have to custom build a wall to wall oiled walnut book case from a master carpenter born in 1583 for $25000 or you're fucked? There has to be something better than that solution.

>>1119074
If the shelf is solid particle board, just screw that length of wood underneath it in the middle rather than to the edge, that way the screws won't just tear through the shelf as the middle sags.

If the shelf is that thick, hollow particle board crap Ikea likes to use for some of their shelves you can't even screw stuff to the bottom. For that case you can do one of two things:

1) Attach an L iron to the wall in the middle of the shelf.

2) Screw a length of wood to the wall underneath the shelf (just make it short enough that it fits between the self's two attachment points).

>>1119056
ohm general

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>>1119056

/ohm/ general typically covers that type of stuff.

>>1119117
Looks like autorouted shit.

>>1118900
Plumbing section of any hardware store

>>1118901
black iron - yes
galvanized - yes

stainless steel - no

>>1118900
Why does it need to have feet at both ends?

>>1118854

That light fixture may not be 240v, may be low voltage...check the fixture first...

If low voltage, buy low voltage transformer...
If 240v, buy replacement plug...

>>1118846
those teeth will never has good precision with laser cut, also the marking

also the holes will make it very weak

not really a job for lasers

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>>1118853
That model is over 36" long, those teeth are about a quarter inch addendum-dedendum. Hence the skeletonizing, If I'm going to be carrying it around I won't want it to be stupidly heavy. The marking on top is also totally doable, I've seen a number of other people do it as well, pic related as well as numerous others. I'm more concerned about the getting the instruction files right

>>1118952
have u also considered the fact that wood warps

>>1118769
And I also do not have a 'biscuit' machine either for connecting the frames edges together.

>>1118769
I use a table saw. I guess you could use a handsaw and chisel. The edges can just be glued.

>>1118769
if you don't have a router, and you like living dangerously you might be able to stick a router bit in a drill or drill press.

Slightly safer would be putting in a piece of metal the thickness you need to fit glass in, then use a rotary tool to cut into the wood level with that.

Pretty sure you could just go the way cheap frames do and use those clips that rotate on the screw to hold the glass, picture, then backing together

>>1118654
But it is.
And when the components fit kinda badly like in your pic, any shaking of the board before soldering can result that.

>>1118654
they just drop them in the holes, then the wave soldering jiggles them in whatever direction

Y'all are wrong. If you look closer, the PCB is designed for capacitors with a different footprint where the legs are farther apart. They obviously didn't have any caps with that footprint in stock so they just bent the ones they did have in order to fit.

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Handbrake switch

This is just a proto, so dont mind that there is two switches and only one is connected :D it was just fastest and easiest way to get that switch right position.

>my wheel centering point starts to rotate more and more left?

this is meaningless.

Not without taking them apart normally. It's something that just happens to them over time.

>>1118521
Thats sort of a pain but i dont really want to take it apart. Its a decent tool from what ive heard and i dont want to buy another one since it works fine, if just a bit of a pain to read.

you could grind .027" off your calipers

>>1118084
Im a total noob at this anon, but when i was looking to rig up some remote sensors i bought a HopeRF HM-TRP radio module. Google it. It comes in quadcopter telemetry kits. I have yet to figure it out as i have been busy with other stuff but maybe someone smarter than I can figure it out quickly.

>>1118087
It says over 1km transmission , and works with 915Mhz and 100mw(20dbM) . Do you know at wich voltage it works on maximum range?

>>1118084

If it has to work in an urban environment, use a mobile network modem.

LoRa/CC1120/etc won't go 5 km in a dense urban environment.

>>1118011
With little or no accuracy but personally I'd find a brad point bit or forstner bit to match the extremity of the opening and then use a chisel to break a line between the OD and remove the waste.

If you had one it could also be quicker to use a OST and wood cutting tool.

>>1118011
Some mighty fine chiselling. Then again if you have to ask you probably don't have the skill. No offence. It would probably be cheaper to buy a small router than the specific chisels you need and sharpen them all properly and shit.
Doesn't need to be a plunge router if you start it off with a drill. Lots and lots of sand paper?

If you're dextrous enough you can chop it out with a chisel and a mallet, like you would a mortise. You can work your way with a Forstner bit on a drill press if you're not man enough. You would end up with sharp rectangular holes rather than rounded ones, if that makes any sense.

>>1117936
I think it depends on the surface you are painting, overall I would have to say the paint sprayer has the most uses and is the most efficient for larger jobs. I still use a nice brush for interior trim, small applications, and for raw wood.

>>1117936

>best all around

The roller. Fast, with adequate surface finish.


But do not confuse my "best all around" answer for simply "best". There's a reason all of those tools are still used everywhere.

The spray gun, by far, leaves the cleanest surface. However, it wastes a lot of paint, is slower than a roller, and can't get everywhere like a brush can.

Similarly, a roller is fast and wastes little paint, but leaves only an "okay" finish (though the stippled finish it leaves is desirable for most architectural painting) and can't really do corners or crevices. A brush, rounding it out, is very slow and leaves a poor surface (unless you do many thin layers with sanding between), but wastes almost no paint and can get everywhere.

Foam brushes are situational. Personally, I only use them for small, quick jobs. I've found them generally slower than a regular brush. They also don't last nearly as long, in my experience. The only real upside is that they tend to leave a better surface with a single coat.

I think the main rule is don't cheap out on whatever you use. Nothing more infuriating than finding hairs in your dried paint jobs

>>1117901

Look for older Makita corded power tools. Unless you MUST have cordless.

My old man has had the same Makita set for at least 15-20 years, everything still works like new, I use them now.

Old shit works. Only buy new stuff if it makes a difference or is practical.

Example: I use my makita shit for most stuff, and I use older nail gun sets. I do however like my Ryobi cordless brad nailer, my cordless 20V impact driver/drill set. I have the sawzall but it sucks because it demolishes battery going through wood.

Corded, go Makita imo. Cordless, go DeWalt. Their batteries last forever.

Milwaukee cordless stuff is great, but prices are WAY inflated.

For manual tools, get whatever is cheapest.. a hammer is a hammer (albeit some with different applications), a sledge is a sledge.

>>1117901

If you're going for a renovation... you'll probably need (depending on what's wrong).

General shit: Few different types of hammer, nails, crowbar, prybar, caulking gun, drywall knives (you can probably do a whole house with a 4" and a 6", maybe a 12 if walls suck), tape and mud.

Air tools: Standard framing nailer, brad nailer, pancake compressor, nails.

corded tools: Sawzall, skillsaw, anything that will need continuous strong power.

Cordless tools: any drills, few batts, lights, any power tools you'll use periodically.


Guidelines: Shop cheap. Flea markets, pawn shops, craigslist, Offerup (tons of deals here), should have a lot of what you need.

>>1117901
Personally I like Dewalt but that's just me.

For hand tools you can't really go wrong as long as you don't buy the cheap gas station shit. Anything carried at a hardware store would be fine.

I still use/buy Craftsman sockets and wrenches and I love Klein tools for electrical work but if you're just a weekend warrior I wouldn't bother with all of that.

>>1117802
cut the wire off they are designed to not be taken apart

>>1117811
How stupid. Why would they be designed like that?

>>1117815
more durable