Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 617. page

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>>949038
No. get a braced heavy duty bracket.
what are you hanging it from? this is not your ordinary shelf.

these are rated for over 150lb if they are suitable.

>>949048
Holding up a microwave. Feel the standard install is for shit. Would like to compensate appropriately with a bracket along the stud that can hold the whole thing.

Seriously, right now about half (or more) the damn weight is supported by about 3/16 of particle board. That can't be right.

Doubt your microwave weighs that much, but two ordinary cross braced brackets should be fine. You want brackets that support 3x the weight of the microwave for the pair since who knows when some mongo (you) is going to drop a turkey on top of it. The ratings are for a static load.

Call a contractor in your area and ask you stupid fuck, we don't know where you live or what they charge.

>>948480
baka. First off, tiles can be anywhere from $0.25 a sq.ft. for clearance ceramic to $30 a sq/ft for real stone mosaic, so that makes a big difference to price depending on what type of tiling you're going for.
Same question, for the bathroom, is it a shower stall that you're going to tile or is there a bathtub you won't have to tile space for. Are you just tiling the bottom 2' or are you going up to 5' or a standard 4'? Are you going to tile behind sink, or is there a built in cabinet?

basically, if you figure out sq/ft age then we may be able to give you some idea of how LONG it should take, which will let you compare to contractor/handyman hourly rates.

>>948480
It can vary wildly, there is a lot of problems in things like this. I worked as a tile supply salesman, selling to contractors and regular people. I strongly recommend you do research.

There is a lot that goes into this things, although given what I have learned I could do everything but the shower pan myself if I had to.

Start with the basics. Talk to multiple contractors to get several bids. Check that they are licensed and insured, and ask to see references.

Also tile adhesive is cheap. I never recommend it, especially in wet areas as many react with water and moisture. You want thinset. It is a pain to mix but it has much better bonding, getting one with a high latex content or porcelain rating is a good idea. A pool rating is even better but few people carry it and it can run the price up more then is needed.

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Here's a shot of the windows in the basement area.

>>947145
>and the air-conditioner is unfortunately located directly to the left of the entrance (pic related).

Can you come off the upper floor of the house to the right of the basement access? What does the floor plan look like inside?

>>947145
Without a shot of what's above your access door it's a shot in the dark here, but you won't get a much smaller stair footprint than spiral stairs. Unfortunately, they would make moving things in and out of the basement room a total pain in the ass, but still kind of possible since you have windows. It would take some measuring, lots of thinking, and maybe a little excavation to make them fit.

So I bought a Sparc64/i386 dual chipset workstation today and am looking to make a high-powered server.

Anyone else working on a similar project or care to discuss?

>>946922
no.
old cases do not have ventilation that a modern computer requires.
get a new case

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>>946933
Well it already has a fan, vents, and ample space inside. I'm not getting a GPU.

Why would pic related not do the trick?

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This is typically done with a Triac on the primary side.
I know nothing about peltiers but a recifier and large smoothing capacitor on the secondary side will smooth any kind of inductive kick you could get.

>>948907
Oh, alright, thanks! Yep, rectification would be involved.

So the inrush current wouldn't be a significant problem? I'm not sure what the switching frequency would have to be right now, but since it's a thermal system it wouldn't have to be too fast.

Is there anything specific or any particular resources out there about operating transformers on duty cycles?

>>948931
You're going to be switching at 50/60 hz if you're using triacs or thyristors.
That's the only frequency you would want to switch to anyway if you're using those iron transformers as opposed to ferrite ones used in smps supplies.
> So the inrush current wouldn't be a significant problem?

What kind of transformer are we talking about here ? Typically, no - it wouldn't.

> Is there anything specific or any particular resources out there about operating transformers on duty cycles?

I don't know any. Unless you're going to market your product and need to have it emi/iec approved, I wouldn't bother too much about that aspect. Test the circuit with a scope to see if you're getting wierd oscillations or similar garbage and you're done.

You've never had a car in a northern coastal region have you?

>>947864
Its true. The problem is two fold. Rust cause the metal to flake up and increases surface area. That allows more moisture to get near the metal and cause more rust. Moisture also gets between the layers of the rust and doesn't evaporate as quickly, causing even more rust. It also gets under any paint or coating (like chrome) that is protecting the metal. The coating flakes off and more metal is exposed to the air to get rusty. The oil will help but its best to remove the rust and protect it with paint or a wax for working surfaces (like the table of a bandsaw). You don't want to use an oil on the working surfaces because it can stain the wood and discolor it or cause problems with finishes. For non-working surfaces, the bed of a lathe for example, oil is fine because the wood wont touch areas.

Rust does breed more rust.

If your bandsaw can be disassembled easily...you might consider abrasive blasting or soda blasting the metal pieces.

I work in the steel industry and see all sorts of rust removal, with wire brushing being the most labor intensive.

If the rust is severe, disassemble and blast it.
If it is manageable, then a rust eating chemical works great with a brush.

As long as you figure out how many amps are going to be flowing through the relays and you have relays rated for that current there shouldn't be a fire hazard. Though, relays aren't really meant to be constantly energized so that may be a problem if you're planning to use them as a switch that's going to be on for a long time.

>>947756
If you lived in Dallas, I'd give you 8 idecs and bases.
Look up idec (name brand) or icecube relays. You don't have to have bases, but they make it easier to mount. Those or RIBs are we use in a professional setting 99% of the time.
>Track mount relays are the last option, and only use them when space is the primary concern.

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>>947756
if you design can be clock based, use pic related

>>947762
>relays aren't really meant to be constantly energized
citation?

>>946850
You can use pretty much any microcontroller to do this. Just look up multiplexing and chaining shift registers, although codewise it will be pretty tedious.

>>946851
That's a good idea I actually forgot to consider, thx!

>>946850
Look up how people wire and control LED cubes. Exact same principle. You're going to need an Arduino and maybe some LED drivers.

Figure it out by yourself you incompetent faggot.

>>948737
>>>/diy/ - Do My Homework For Me

>>948737
So go look at some goldberg machines on jewtube, work out which particular stages are within your budget/skillet to make, then work out how to make those stages work together.

>>945599
Are you sawing it to sell, or sawing it to use?

2x4, 2x8, 4x4

>>945654
Sawing to use.
>>945674
2x4 seems to small and only good for framing a stick built frame that won't take enough insulation. 4x4 also not big enough for post and beam construction. Why do you suggest 2x8s? Those, and x2 and x12 are teh ones I'm most unsure of.

It looks like all the electrical contacts are still fine. Those four large pads are just to hold the socket on the board. Cut a USB extension cord in half and solder each of the wires individually. You should be able to figure out which wire goes where with a continuity tester or by looking at the old socket. Then you'll have to find some way to securely hold the cord, because any tension will just break all those solder joints.

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>>948252
you dont have to trace shit
its already done

>>948252
Wow, I didn't even think about that. How will I solder each wire though? I feel like that is a really small space, and I am by no means experienced. Is it a problem if solder holding one wire in place is touching the solder from another?
>>948260
And thank you for the diagram!

Look for "Nature's Miracle"

It's pretty good at removing stains and odors from animals.

>>948701
i'm sorry op but you will never get that smell out
it will always be there
you can use whatever chemicals, wash it as much has you like, you will still occasionally catch the smell out of the corner of your nose and it will drive you crazy never being quite sure if your stuff is clean.

i'm sorry for cat people, i like cats too, but they are animals. animals don't understand not to poop and piss and puke everywhere.

i realise its your parents cat but if you value your posessions you dont't leave them in a house with an animal roaming around. put a lock on your door in future.

>>948701
Male cat?
Don't worry. It's going to continue to do so.

>>948686

waste of vinyl. plus I wouldnt put food in that...

>>948741
And what have you built recently faggot?

>>948743
Melting down an old record isnt building anything either.

You just run one double wire from the speaker to the head unit. The way it's intended to go in any other car. Why would you do it any other way?

>>948610
a little googling gives me info about the cars stock amp splitting the tweeter and sub signals, which is why you have 4 wires.
your best bet is to grab a 2/3 way speaker and then cut the tweeter lines then connect the main sub and tweeter separately to their corresponding feeds

>>948625
these new GTO938s are three way speakers


but like >>948615
said, since i've got a new head unit, (used a wiring harness for the switch), does that mean i should just redo the wiring for them and replace the wires that go into the harness? cause that seems like a ton of work.

but if i just cut the tweeter lines and sub lines to separate will that diminish any quality? dumb question, but which ones are the tweeter and sub? and also, in OP pic theres that thick red coil with all the wires attached to, will i have to remove it?

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>>946284
I was thinking of maybe using something like pic related, carving out designs in the bamboo lid in order to represent the different controls and have some sort of metal pin pushed through to conduct.

>>946284
Have you had a chance to test it?
I've been curious about it.

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>>946284
If i were you i'd get some copper (or whatever) wire, route/chisel whatever your design into the bamboo, drill a hole in one of the trenches made, pull some wire through (to connect to the board), solder end of wire to the copper wire and then inlay the routings with your copper wire, hammer and sand flat.