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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 622. page

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How do calculated the pressure rating of a bolt?

Specifically, I am tapping some stainless steel pipe to make a rifle barrel. Project is a homemade matchlock just to say I did, and fire once a year to feel proud of myself. I want to plug one end with a bolt (5/8), and was wondering what length of bolt would be required to achieve a 15,000-20,000 psi rating.
38 posts and 5 images submitted.
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What caliber and what is the wall thickness? 1/2 to 5/8 should be plenty for black powder. cant speak or testify other than I assembled a BP rifle that I screwed in the breach plug loaded 150 grains of BP, 2 RLB, set a 30 second cannon fuse and ran for hell. Everything held together and have taken 3 deer and shot over 150 times with 50 grain load.
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Nose through this collection for a couple of days http://s1131.photobucket.com/user/runastav/library/?sort=3&page=1
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> I am tapping some stainless steel pipe to make a rifle barrel.

Are you terminally stupid, or simply suicidal?

How utterly fucking STUPID do you have to be to use a bit of "stainless pipe"?

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When I turn the radiator on in the spare bedroom of my house, I can hear a dripping noise, so I'm pretty sure it's a leak in the central heating pipe.

How do I even get floorboards up? (I need to do this for another room too)
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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You wedge the prying object and rip the board away from the frame, you won't get the same looks as before if you put them back. Lemme see that heater
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>>946937
>Lemme see that heater

What, you just wanna see a pic of the boiler itself?

It's about 36 years old I think.
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>>946925
in a closed central heating system turning the radiator on or off shouldn't alter the pressure in the pipe significantly.
if there is a leak that is enough to audibly drip then you have a problem and should be constantly refilling the system via filling loop. you would notice a drop in the pressure gauge.

are you sure its dripping and not just the sound of the pipe heating up?

parents house makes a similar drippy noise in the kitchen ceiling when the bedroom above radiator is on. done it for 10 years, no damage no loss of pressure no visible water when we ripped up the floor.
just sounds the same.

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Question. In an Main Earth Neutral electrical system, if my main earth became disconnected from my earth stake, what symptoms could occur, and why? Anything like flickering lights and why they would do that would be nice to know.
6 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>946868

Any short circuit won't discharge to ground throwing the breaker to open the circuit and then you can have all kinds of electrical catastrophes.

A short circuit will continue to short. Sparks, electrocution, fire, death will be some symptoms.
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>>946883
Not even remotely true, ever. But good guess. A GFCI will offer faster, more localized protection from ground faults, but with no current to ground it will trip the breaker or pop the fuse on time-current which isn't the end of the world and is still pretty safe.

>>946868
It depends on the type of service. Quite typically across the globe the neutral is grounded at your service transformer. Not at your house. That means that most of your stuff will likely work just fine. Odds and ends like TV or laptop power supplies might not work, but most loads will. If you have a fault in an appliance, there's a greater chance you will get a small shock, but your water pipe should also be grounded so that's unlikely anyway. If you were to remove the ground AND neutral, nothing will turn on because there is no circuit - just an open, energized line.
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>>947388
Scratch the part about the water pipe. I had that backwards in my head as I mostly do industrial crap and not residential buildings. I think the water pipe ground has to be deprecate from the ground rod/electrical connections but I'm not sure. Anyway, having a system ground is very important for safety reasons, but not 100% hypothetically necessary for the function of most things (e.g. Just look at light bulbs or other small appliances that don't have a ground prong)

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Is it possible for an octocopter with 26" propellers to fly stable? What is the largest propellers that will fly stable?
17 posts and 3 images submitted.
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bump. Also I must add that I only want it to hover. Is this less taxing on the flight controller?
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There is no rotor size limit concerning stability. The flight controller does not really care about your flying style as long as you don't crash.
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>>945624
But I heard that large props have too high inertia to be controlled quickly enough.

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I'm currently in my second year of studying electrical engineering, pic related is one of our projects from last semester that we did from scratch (just as a reference point). I talked to one of the profs and he has (inofficially) given me permission to use the facilities we have at the school if I want to.
My first idea is to make some effect pedals, I'm a bassist and I've already found freestompboxes.org , and there are quite a few schematics on there and a few fully traced boards as well. I'm interested in a compressor, a distortion pedal and a wah-wah, that's mostly it for now. We can make PCBs up to 100mmx160mm, double sided if necessary, and I'd have to hand solder everything (I'm decent enough at soldering).

Should I make something very simple to start with? I'd honestly like to do a copy of some of the really nice pedals out there, but they're more complex than what we've done before.
Design rules/things to keep in mind? I've never done something related to audio gear, are there specific rules that I need to keep in mind if I have to trace my own board? We usually do a ground plane like in the pic, avoid unnecessary/stupid routing decision, put suppressor capacitors as close as possible to the ICs, etc. Anything else to keep in mind? I'd post my attempts at the routed PCB here and on the mentioned forum, and probably check with one of the profs as well, but I obviously would like to know beforehand.
What specific pedal should I build? Maybe there are bassists or people with experience in building effect pedals here, I'd obviously like to build something nice that can compete with the things that are available on the market, but at a much lower price. Building a clone of a crappy distortion pedal that I could have bought for a few more bucks is not exactly what I'm after, if that makes sense.

Thanks in advance, any input is appreciated.
16 posts and 2 images submitted.
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One thing to remember is that price!=sound quality. What are some pedals that YOU like? Do you have a distortion/comp/wah in mind that you would like to clone?

The best thing you could do right now is find a schematic for a pedal that you like and try to analyze it. For example, if you find a particular distortion pedal, look at the clipping arrangements and the filtering (really all that any "dirt" effect boils down to). One "gotcha" that guitar effects will have is that the inputs are typically very high impedance; modern practice is at least 1Mohm. As a result, the inputs to guitar pedals are particularly sensitive to noise. Add in the fact that any dirt pedal will have some gain to it and circuit layout becomes important. Make sure that the input and output are not close to eachother on the circuit board and you should be ok.

Also, I have found diystompboxes to be superior to freestompboxes, but both are good sources of information. Less swearing, no flaming, few arguments. More professional in general.
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>>945253
>diystompboxes
I'll definitely check that out, thank you.
I know that price doesn't make the sound, but I'd rather copy something that's well reviewed and liked, and most of those effects are honestly in the 200€ range and not down in the 30€ bargain bin. Not to generalize of course, but that was my main reason for that comment.
I don't really have the option to test out a whole bunch of pedals sadly, so I'll have to go by reviews and recommendations basically. For the compressor I'd like something that doesn't colour the sound but CAN be cranked for a nice effect if I want to, so I guess I'll have to find the suitable comp and see if the schematics are available.
Thanks for the tips with the input jacks, I'll make sure to seperate them as much as possible on the circuit and physically as well (but sharing the ground plane shouldn't be an issue I assume? I don't see why it would but maybe I'm just missing something very obvious).
More research for me, basically, but thanks for the pointers.
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Sharing the ground plane shouldn't be an issue. One compressor that people seem to like is the Engineer's Thumb. It uses an OTA in the feedback loop of the opamp. This gives you greater dynamic range; OTAs are fantastic devices but they are limited in headroom and linearity. Keeping it in a feedback loop solves those issues while keeping the benefits (well defined gain control).

In regard to testing pedals, do you live near any music stores?

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Lasercutted this and other stuff for a fun this week, but im looking for some even more ideas on how i can apply lasercutting and make some really practical things. What are your suggestions? Also, a general laser cutting thread if you want.
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Make a Smokenator for a BBQ kettle.
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>>943008
Find old cross cut saw blades, cut knife blanks out of them.

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Any pepakura bros here?

I am trying to create pic related from paper using Pepakura Designer to print the parts. Problem is, most files are read-only and need a password to edit (thus scaling) them.

I will be using a slightly smaller Blanda bowl by IKEA which is stainless steel, but a little bit smaller than the 1:1 dome so I need to scale the whole model so that everything fits.

Google didn't give me any such results and all pdo's need a password to edit them, so I was wondering if you know of a pepakure resource where I can find pdo models free to edit.
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Also, general pepakura or pepakura-based creations thread.

I will eventually strengthen the R2D2's body and plan to make it into a fully functional robot.
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We have a dedicated board for this stuff. It's apparently even slower than /diy/, though.
>>>/po/
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>>947474
Well, Papercraft is just the skeleton, I will strengthen the paper with fiberglass, and paint it, then insert electonics in it, wheels, controllers, motors, arduino etc as well as lights and effects to make it a fully functional robot.

So I think this is more of a diy project

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What type of bulb is this? Here is a quarter for size
12 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>946575
A light one
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>>946575
China
now turn it over and read the other side
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Google Lilliput Bulbs

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Hi /diy/

I got those 2 keys not working [B]|N]
It got tea a while ago and It's in spare since, I'm trying to take the time at repairing it.
What is doable ? Is there some checks doable with a "check link" on Multimeter ?
thanks for any help
14 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>947132
open it and clean the contacts
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>>947134
I did with some wet silk, then dryed it, without any change
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>>947132
check continuity along the top track that starts on the left pad and goes right then down.
space bar has two contacts so its possible the track is broken between the two space bar buttons and you just don't notice the left hand space bar button is broken because the right one works

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Hey, /diy/

I helped my friend pull his bike motor so I could rebuild the pistons. As of now we are waiting on head gaskets which are on back order. Is there anything I can do while waiting for those as far as bettering performance on the cheap or just maintenance? I've lapped all four valves and port matched his intakes as they had a slight lip the overhung the carb boot.
14 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>946572
Pic related: First lap job I've done, how does it look?
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Weigh each con rod/piston combo and file minute amounts off each heavier con rod until they weigh the same. Perhaps take the crank in and get it balanced. Plenty of info out there on blueprinting engines.
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Port and polish, although it's easier if you take plays and while the engine is running and let it get sucked in the the air intake

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Hey guys. I posted this sometime last year and thought I had the problem fixed, but here I am again.

I am making these little necklaces from mini bottles filled with glitter glue. Long story short, the glue keeps evaporating at a slow but steady rate. In the last thread, someone pointed out that the cork was probably cheap and letting some air seep through it. I remedied it by coating the entire bottom of the corks with epoxy glue before gluing them shut. About a year later, I notice that the stuff inside is still in fact shrinking, but it's just doing it at a much slower pace. (Note: pic is from the old batch, before I started coating the corks. The orange one was a freshly filled one, and the purple one was about five months old.) Where the hell is the air seeping in from? The glass? Is that possible? I don't know what else to do, should I coat the glass with something? I don't think there's any way to do that without making it look ugly though...

I just thought of this, it might be significant: Sometimes these guys go through some changes in temperature. For example, I wore one of them out on Thursday and it was fucking BUTT-BLISTERINGLY cold out. When I got back home, I noticed there was a tiny bit of condensation on the inside of the bottle, near the top.

Dammit, I think I just answered my own question.

Ok, I guess it has something to do with the air trapped in the bottle changing state over and over again that's fucking it up. When I get a chance, I'll try making one with the glue filled all the way to the top with no empty space left at the top. I wonder if that'll do it?

Anyway, maybe I'm wrong, any other insight? Any sciencefags out there?

tl;dr The glitter glue inside these (sealed) bottles is evaporating. Halp.
22 posts and 2 images submitted.
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dont use glue? use an oil
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>>946007
Putting epoxy on the cork is likely keeping it from also forming a complete seal.

Why not dip the top in a high temperature sealing wax and see how that works?
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>>946018
This. Mix a ton of glitter into an oil that won't go rancid like baby or mineral oil. Seal shut with cork tightly.

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Is there a name for small POTs that have LEDs built in, like pic related? Looking for something like this for something I'm working on.
7 posts and 2 images submitted.
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stop being a nigger and google ''illuminated pots''
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>>945919
no need to be rude dear
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Im interested as well..

I have worked with electronics in various places and application, and i have never encountered pots which were illuminated.

I have meet pot that had a knob attached which was illuminated though..

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im really having trouble determining the best tolerancing fits for a formula style race car. I have the dimensions of the bearing but i simply cannot find proper tolerancing for a sliding fit.

were using a steel case bearing and require a sliding fit into t67075 aluminium cylinder.

the inside diameter of the bearing is 65mm and i am trying to give tolerances to the person whos about to CNC the aluminum cylinder that would go inside the bearing.

please halp!
7 posts and 2 images submitted.
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What is this bearing for exactly?
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its basically the hub bearing. what lets the wheel rotate freely. we are CNC'ing our own everything and need to determine tolerances for our purchased bearing
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How did you manage getting into this Team in the first place

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I am thinking about a way to make a small amount of side cash and get some shit out of the landfill in the process, so I am thinking about maybe recycling latex paint. How much would you pay for recycled latex paint when your only option for colors would be very general and broad, such as blue-ish, white-ish, etc.?
13 posts and 1 images submitted.
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nice idea but to be honest, i'd think "fuck this shit, spend five more bucks and get a fresh can of paint."

The thing is, everything what isn't a everyday product needs to be perfect. If i needed a bucket o'paint everyday, i guess i would visit you. But because i just use it once a decade i buy good stuff from the market.
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>>945500
Considering we have a paint recycling place out here that gives the paint away for free... I'd pay nothing.
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>>945500
If I want basic paint I can get it for $22/gal, if I want high end I can get it for $45/gal. And I usually want several gallons of identical paint. I wouldn't mind using recycled paint, but if I need 3 gallons of a color and you only have one there's nothing I can do. If I only need a small amount I can get a quart for $10, and that'd be a hard price to beat if you want to make it worth your while. In my jurisdiction you're not allowed to put paint in the trash if it's wet. You can leave the can open so it dries and throw it out, but that makes in unusable, obviously. If you're location is the same, you'd have to head it off before it gets thrown out. Yes, I realize people still throw it out wet, but anyone that knows just lets it dry because it's no effort to eliminate any chance of a legal issue.

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has anyone used one of these before? what can you do with it and how strong is the bond?
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>945214
look up light activated resin...basically, it's kinda like an epoxy resin that only hardens upon exposure to UV
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Buy a real plastic welder.
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>>945214
weak fragile plastic doesnt adhere well to a lot of surfaces you get what you pay for.

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