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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 625. page

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Hey all. Recently got into the diy world through cheap and creative solutions for my band equipment. I'm trying to figure out a way to attach 2 flight cases together. I could always do the standard casters and cups, but I want to figure out some sort of vaguely quick release system to lock them together for transport, but also be able to detach them without the use of tools once we arrive at the venue. Any ideas on what would be a smart move?
5 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Locking castors & cups, or ratchet straps. Or maybe both.
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Seconding ratchet straps, harbor freight for cheap
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So, I was installing a new thermostat for my girlfriend and when I turned the breaker off, I only turned off the ac breaker, not looking or realizing that her heat was on a different breaker. I just assumed the breaker labeled "ac unit "meant both.

Well, the wires sparked and now neither her old or new thermostats are getting power. I even touched the red and green wires together to try and get the blower to turn on, but nothing.

Have I blown something in her unit? I didn't smell anything.

Any help would be appreciated.
15 posts and 1 images submitted.
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you need to get a chunkier girlfriend; you can keep warm by sliding into her flaps.
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>>946320
Reset both breakers. Use your meter to check that both units are getting power.

I'm not real knowledgeable about this, but thermostats should be low voltage applications. In the 6v to 36v range, at a guess based on my limited experience.

Other than that, google is your friend.

The lesson you learned here today is to always check for power before you do anything else. You could have fried yourself in your own grease or burnt down your gf's abode. Those are not good things.

You do have a multimeter, right?
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>>946320
>breaker labeled "ac unit "meant both.
this is for the outside unit -240vac
The furnace and air handler (blower) are on a different breaker -120vac
The transformer for the thermostat is inside the furnace.
You probably blew the transformer (24vac) or the 3-5 amp fuse on the control board inside the blower compartment.
It's usually a two-blade automotive type fuse,

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Sup /DIY/nos

Might be the wrong place to ask - but I always end up seeing good tool recommendations here.

Anybody know of a good set of fabric shears for under $30?

Main use is for Cutting 1000D Nylon (Cordura)

Thanks bois

(Sewing is for the MANLIEST FUCKING MEN)
4 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>945836
I have the 20$ Fiskars fabric scissors from Walmart, and I cut a bunch of denim with it. Did pretty good.
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>>945836
(I dunno how thick 1000D cordura is...?)
if you are cutting a lot of heavy fabric, you might look into getting some leather-working shears

the handles are longer than fabric shears to give better leverage for cutting (thicker & tougher) leather (pic related)
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>>945844
This. Fiskars is probably the best brand. With the orange handles, although i think they come in different colors nowadays.

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Let's have a general (subtractive) CNC thread, post shit you've made/designs you've seen/etc.
Mills, routers, laser, and punch presses are all welcome.

In the meantime, my dad is wanting me to help my youngest brother get started learning AutoCAD, and being that I am the resident CNC-wrangler I figured the best way to get him started would be designing something straight-forward that can be made (I'm sure it will be a huge help to stimulate interest in the subject), so if I could find some simple, cool things to get him to design and me program it'd be great.

A tad limited on what we can do though, our CNC machines are geared towards bigger stuff, but we've got a punch press (For sheet metal), a 2.5 axis mill (Metal only due to coolant recirc), and a plasma table (Big and messy)

Gonna start out by posting my little personal project at the moment, machining some aluminum grips for an old pistol I've got. (Will get fancy with engraving/anodizing once I get a set made and verify that's dimensions are good)
12 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>945988
I taught myself autocad in 12 hours and learnt how to write scripts for it.

I have ideas and many many pictures i've turned in dxf's, I want to turn into lights and other arty shit, I might have a guy to build me a cnc, i've been thinking about it for a year or so, i'm just not a precision kinda person or electrical, but he's quoted me £3,000 for a 1x1.5 meter work area cnc miller of plasma.

It would save me spending £25 on N E S W every-time i make a compass
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>>946056
>12 hours
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>>946071
Hey, back off. This guy is clearly the smartest person you've ever met. He also has 18 confirmed kills and was the captain of his football team.

I want to install a new shower head but the threaded male portion of the ball joint adapter is too short.

Any suggestions? I'm thinking a short extension is a good solution but I cannot find one that would work.

This is for my apartment, so I cannot perform any major construction.

Any suggestions are very much appreciated.
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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this sounds more like a job for your landlord. don' t waste your money or time with it
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not 100% sure what problem you're describing, but i once had a problem where the thing wouldnt screw in properly until i replaced the washer with a thinner washer, to give it more thread to grip.
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There might by a water saver gasket in the female end. It's just a rubber washer, take it out and see of that helps.

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Is it worth stripping motherboards, circuit boards, HDDs, PSUs etc for precious metals?

Can you make little pocket money and learn a little about metals and electronic parts on the process.

I'm in the UK but I don't know whether the gold, magnets, aluminium are going to worth the time invested.
13 posts and 1 images submitted.
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No, not really, especially if you're dealing with stuff 1990 and newer. The gold is minimal and takes too much work and time to be worth it.

If you happen to come across some boards though, tantalum caps can go for a pretty penny, as do transformers and electromagnets (lots of copper and magnets are cool). Variable caps are nice to have around too.
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Heat sinks are a good source of aluminium too, They go for about 80 cents a pound.
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So I should look out for those old big power blocks from the old computers like Sinclair, Commodore and Amstrad used to make?

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Dearest /diy/kes:

GF screwed up with a piece of second-hand lab equipment (115 V) and plugged it in with a 250 V cord. (Specifically a Forma 3130)
What are the odds that there is some fuse protection and the board isn't fried. She texted me after plugging it in, it running for a few seconds, and the magic smoke came out. I've looked into parts and there should be a 1 amp fuse somewhere.

Pic sorta related
29 posts and 4 images submitted.
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Find where the smoke came out. If it came out of a fuse, then it was protected
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Yes, I was just wondering if it's common for these to have protection built-in as such.
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>>945172
It's probably bad news. First, fuses don't normally produce smoke when they fail. Second, you can't protect electronics with a fuse; a fuse takes tens or hundreds of milliseconds to fail, a transistor takes a fraction of a millisecond, and an IC will fail even faster.

OTOH, electronics doesn't usually run directly from mains voltage, and a power supply shouldn't propagate mains voltage in the event of a failure, meaning that it shouldn't have fried anything other than the power supply, which is typically one of the easier/cheaper things to fix.

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Got this idea for a ocd-nightmare clock. Basicly it would be just a regular clock, except that the movement of the seconds hand will be independent - having its movement be complete random mess, slowing down, speeding up, stopping completely, even going backwards, etc.
You would be able to tell the time just fine since the hours and minutes hand would still work normally.

It just want to have the clock look like a fucking mess. How would I go about making it?
12 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>945152
I've seen something like this before. Having a clock like that would drive me nuts!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQUcFBvjM4g

Maybe you can ask the author of that youtube channel.
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I have one a college buddy and I made where the second hand goes around the clock twice before a minute passes. It's a cool conversation piece.
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>>945152

https://www.tindie.com/products/akafugu/vetinari-clock/

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Do you know much about knots?

Can you tie knots that you are sure won't slip and fail you?
52 posts and 12 images submitted.
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Nope. I can barely even tie my shoes. I wear sandals most of the time, even on a worksite.
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Yes.
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Yes i can.

german firefighter here.

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I'm in the planning stages of building a bed for myself and the soon-to-be mrs. as an engagement present. Though I don't know how to join the outer pieces so that i dont have screws showing on the outside.

i dont want to just have at it an put a laminite covering of the outside. any suggestions?

pic related
23 posts and 4 images submitted.
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>>944977
>getting married

Enjoy the alimony you beta cuck.
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>>944977
Pocket holes.
You can buy a little jig that does them very easily
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>>944982
i'll bite, but this isn't /b. there's no reason to be a complete doucher to someone just asking for help

>>944984
even if the wood i'm drilling into is only an inch thick? i don't want this thing to feel cheap

The thing is that I'm starting to practice making this rosettes. But I've been searching and searching a lot to find some templates to start carving them, but I just can't find anything on the internet.
They are meant for baroque instruments, and made of parchments or/and quite thin wood.

Any help or idea of where can I get some templates?
7 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>946422
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>>946422
use mandalas perhaps?
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>>946423

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Hello.
I just made a cmoy headphone amp and the pot only seems to work for the first 1/5th of its travel. any advice on how to find out what is wrong here? bad pot?
11 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>946317
You probably have a linear taper pot. You need a logarithmic pot (audio pot).
>>
if you mean that the thing goes to max volume at 2 instead of 11, it means your gain is too high, or your input level is too high. (both situations mean the same thing, really). if so, since there are so many 'CMOY' designs, it's impossible to say what needs changing.
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>>946327
i used this guide:
http://tangentsoft.net/audio/cmoy/
i tested at very low input levels and high input levels it just seems to add about 3db at 1/5th pot travel then doesn't get louder after that. works fine before then.

>>946322
ill try swapping with an audio pot, not sure if the one is have is linear or not, thanks for the tips.

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Clogged sink and plunger isnt doing anything. Any tips besides drain cleaner or a snake?

Its not draining water at all.
24 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>944697
>Any tips besides drain cleaner or a snake?
Yes, don't block it in the first place
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>>944697
1. Put bucket and towels under sink
2. Using pipe or strap wrench, remove the P-Trap from the drain pipes under the sink.
3. Say "EWWWWWW"
4. Using a stick, snake, thingy or whatchamajob, scrape out the glop from the trap and exposed pipes.
5. Put it all back together.
6. Don't plug up your sink again, cause you know how nasty it is to fix it.
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>>944697
Plug up the other side of the sink with a stopper. Plunge clogged sink.

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I have a motor similar to this that came out of a range hood and I am going to use it to make an air filter/negative air machine. It's labeled 115v ~2 amps. It had a three prong connector that I cut off to get it out of the metal housing that I repainted. It has a red, white, and black wire. What is the red wire for? Is it the ground, or is it for a low speed mode?
14 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>943169
My first assumption was that it was a second load, but it's only 115v.
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>>943169
One com, two for fan/motor speed.
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>>943169
I just adore how people think the color of the wire makes any difference to anything at all ever :-D

Everybody uses their own standard for color coding. Unless you're talking about romex or network wiring, the color of a wire amounts to exactly jack shit.

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Did masonry for a couple years so id like to build my own masonry heater eventually, but i have a couple questions. I know its supposed to be a really clean fire/burn but do you ever have to clean them out and how would you clean a multiple bell heater? What exactly makes the firebox burn so much hotter than a normal chimney? How do you attach an oven? Any advice to prevent cracking would be appreciated. And i read its bad to have more than 3 fires per day? any one know why? Thanks for the help
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Also if anyone prefers rocket stoves please explain why, other than initial cost
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>>945983
You should always have access ports to clean things even if you never need to use them. You never know when you might need to clear out a bird's nest, scared cat, kid's toys, etc. or even the next owner may have those problems if not you.

>cracking

Make sure everything is fully cured. It may take a few weeks. Keep the mortar properly damp until fully cured and try to make it cure evenly. Meaning do as much of it as fast as you can in as short amount of time as you can. This prevents cold joints which can lead to cracking later on. Once the curing is done, allow a month or more of drying time. You don't want to start a fire in it when it still has too much moisture inside.

> And i read its bad to have more than 3 fires per day? any one know why?

No clue. Perhaps they are overloading them? You can just use a rather small fire normally using dead fall sticks for masonry stoves.

>What exactly makes the firebox burn so much hotter than a normal chimney?

This, like the rocket stove, really depends on proper design. Basically, the updraft draws in tons of fresh air to provide the fire with more oxygen to burn hotter and cleaner. There is a specific ratio for the openings and the length of the chimney to get it to be perfect. Too much or too little of one thing or another and you end up with suet and smoke. No, I do not know the proper ratio. I suggest lots of research and experimentation.
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>>945985
I like them and don't like them for the same reasons. Cost and materials. In addition to that, they are extremely limited due to the ratio I mentioned above. Take those rocket stoves in homes that use a 55 gallon drum that has its exhaust snaking through a cob or masonry bench to sit on. That longer pipeline for the exhaust ruins the ratio of the rocket stove. It ends up burner at a lower temperature and you get suet/smoke problems again. Doing it correctly means you'll be venting the heat out of the house where it can't be reclaimed. You'd need some far larger pipe for the flue gases to exit into after a complete burn to prevent the pressure of a longer pipe from stopping the clean burn of the rocket stove. Which is a bit of a bore really. I still love rocket stoves for camping.

However, a masonry stove essentially takes care of this problem. They are however very difficult to calculate correctly. Design it incorrectly and it won't work for heating and/or smoke removal. This is one reason they fell out of favor. They are a bit of an art to get right.

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