Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 619. page

Good fuck I didn't know my formatting to be this shitty

>>948523
>not using a door
>not using the top from an old solid wood desk and cutting it to the size you want
>not spending 20 bucks on a few 1xwhatever pieces of pine at home depot and supporting them underneath with cross pieces

Dude I built a pretty awesome bed frame for 60 bucks. Your desk idea should cost next to nothing.

Screw some support boards underneath, they don't need to reach the edges either so they'll be hidden there.
How many legs, 4? You could put a 5th one at the middle if it doesn't get in the way.

>wood things

Pallets m8 :^)

>>948487
Yeah, that ahah

>>948485
Chuck some pallets down, some cushions on top and maybe put a stain on the wood? sandpaper would help too.

>>948419
What are you talking about?

RCA Stereo plugs are 1 size.
Just go on amazon and buy a replacement set of them. I see like 10 different types all under 10$.

And if you want to build your own tube amp pop into /ohm/ and learn yourself some knowledge.

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>>948419
to measure small stuff really really accurate, get a plain vernier caliper and learn to use it.

Further reading:
1) get a non-electronic caliper, and get a non-dial caliper. cheap electronic calipers aren't reliable, and dial calipers only measure in one system (Imperial or Metric, but not both). a plain vernier caliper will be 100% reliable, and will measure in both systems.
2) get a plain caliper that can measure down to .001 inch, and down to .05 mm.
3) 6-inch / 150mm calipers can be had pretty cheap. You can get 8", 12" and longer ones, but the prices go up rapidly for longer lengths.
4) get one made totally out of stainless-steel; don't get a plastic one.

Pic related is an example of the proper type to get, on Amazon,,, but it is overpriced at $28. I've seen ones like this for around $15 other places online.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
As most all of these cheap calipers are China-made, they tend to come with manufacturing grit in them. It is very beneficial to take them apart first and clean them, then oil and reassemble.

$15 might seem like a lot just to measure little stuff, but it's a good deal overall.
For normal home/hobby use--if you keep this thing clean and put a drop of oil on it every year or two, you're not going to wear it out. As long as you don't bend it, drop it or lose it, it's going to last the rest of your life.

>>948419
>I noticed that these apparently come in different measurements (in reference to pin size).

Studio audiofag here, gunna need to see a big citation on that one, in 14 years of plugging shit in I have never seen any type of RCA plug that does not meet the standard. A quick check of wiki would indicate the same as well. There are bullet RCA's with a center return, but even these match the standard 1/8th inch center pin diameter.

Any old RCA socket will do.

YouTube/Google exists faggot

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>read sticky
>If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

I'll allow this thread, but watch yourself McCoy
>From Law and Order, only 80's kids will get this

>>948116
I think one of the main reasons that the rules are >>948120
Is because there is so much material so readily available on so many other sites with a simple search. I'm sure you can find a better, more "reputable" site for this kind of thing? Perhaps a different chan, if you catch my drift?

>>948052
probably something blew

>>948052
>if i could fix it, its mine
so you have to give it back if you can't get it fixed?

>what caused the spark
literally anything

>is it fixable
everything can be fixed

>what should i be looking for
skid marks

>>948061
unless theres another use for a non functioning projector, ill throw it away, since it would be only garbage

>>948045
I can't help much with a direct answer, but there is at least one CNC router platform that uses an Arduino mega.

In the past when I asked on machinist forums about details of how various CNC software actually worked (how the software itself was written) amateur and pro machinists alike generally didn't know anything about that aspect. They knew "machinist math" (tool feed rates and such) and they knew how to program 3-axis G-code, but they didn't know anything about writing computer software.

>>948045
Turing Completeness states that it's a language just like any other, so just work your way through Modern Compiler Implementation in [Java/C++/ml], and when you've finished you'll be able to write a compiler or interpreter for any language, including G-Code.

>>948045

Look at existing gcode interpreters, and learn how to write gcode by hand, that makes those do what you want to do first. Then, when you've got both a better idea of how it works, and what you want, you can use that gcode you wrote as a test case for your interpreter.

Marlin is a very popular gcode interpreter for 3d printing, but iirc does come with many features you'd use in subtractive manufacture (CNC router, laser cutter, etc) as well. It runs in arduino megas, and I think there are ports to due and other 32bit arm platforms as well. It supports all kinds of extra sensors, lcds, leds, buttons, pins, servos, etc, and Cartesian coordinate and delta machines. I don't know what else, but it's a kitchen sink type project, so it probably supports more than that.

GRBL is much simpler, and targeted at smaller atmea processor based arduinos. It includes Cartesian machine support, basic manual input, end stops, coolant enable, and pwm control for a spindle, and that's about it.

Both projects basiclly use arduino only as a bootloader and hardware platform, and everything else is just in vanilla c out c++.

up the butt it goes

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>>947681
jeez, can you imagine this sweaty palm guy at the conventions

nothankyou.png

>>947695
>implying this is 11 years of use

>>947212
>peeling paint from moisture.
>area on my ceiling
>Or should I go about it some other way?
Yes, fix the source of the moisture first or everything else you do will be a waste of time and money. If it's something beyond your control like the roof leaking or the tenant above you has leaking plumbing you need to inform the people responsible like the condo owners association.

>>947311

You missed what I was trying to say. The source is fixed. I need to know how to repair that particular area I showed. Can i do it like the other areas with the patching compound or since it's a bit larger and a few layers do I have to use a different method?

>>947379
Sorry I missed what you thought but failed to mention, >accusemeplease.jpg.
>a bit larger and a few layers
If it was me I'd want to peel up those layers then go beyond that and check for rotted wood.
You mentioned something about concrete but is it just plaster or stucco.
I'd look for something more than just a band-aid by patching since you don't know anything about this place even if you plan to just rent it out.
Find out what those layers are first.
If plasterboard/drywall just cut that section out and replace it with another piece the same size and held there by a mesh and plaster/exterior spackle paste but ideally cut-out to joists on either side and replace with drywall the same size and screw into place with drywall screws, tape and spackle, primer/paint.

Lmgtfy

Dearborn

>>942768
>heater too close to bed
>wire protection guard removed from heater

I have one of those. But, I'd never use it in an unventilated space.

>>948018
its gimmicky crap

>>948018
All in 1s tend to do nothing well
Looks gimmicky, and it's not a common name brand so replacements and upgrades will be impossible to find.
What if that one handle piece breaks, then all of your tools are out of commission

Buy used professional quality tools and take care of them.

Buying a particular tool from Harbor Freight makes sense if you're only planning to use it a few times. If you're setting up a workshop get something that will last.

Don't buy crap like in the OP, ever.

I did it back in 2011
Ordered a complex model from the cheapest plastic from Shapeways. Left a few holes to save on the materials costs which I filled with shit when the model arrived.

Cheap and reliable plus the material is strong and very (emphasis on VERY) detailed.

>>947915
sounds like it did really well

if i was making somthing like a iron man helmet lets say (or something more detailed) should i just get it made exactly what i want ?

or do i need to scale it back by the thinkness of the plastic?

>>947921
Dunno, sounds a bit too big for 3D printing
I did a small part, like the size of a smartphone

>>945412
>Could the issue be something as simple as just how each place prints out their cards?

Yes.

Two issues I see:

Acetone is a fairly powerful organic solvent, but it will only really work on ink that is polymer or oil-based. Pokemon cards might not be using such ink.

The other issue might be that the cards are treated with a sealant somehow. I recall them being somewhat glossy, so this isn't all that improbable. Depending on what kind of sealant is used, it might be resistant to the acetone, even if the ink isn't.

...not really sure how to help you on this one, DESU. If acetone doesn't work, I'd try just plain-old water as a last-ditch effort, and if that don't work, I'm out of ideas.

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>>945430
I'll leave a scrap holo card soaking in a bit of water to see how it goes. Coincidentally there was also a MtG related article dealing with that somewhat. The OP of that basically peeled off the entire foil layer from the card, which was the desired effect I guess. At the very least it gave some data on time frames that could be a rough start to aid with these cards.

Gonna have to start looking into pic related a lot more now since using patterns from Pokemon cards is looking slim.

Thank you for your help anon!

>>945412
Non-acetone senpai

>>948182
make it out of wood numbnuts

>>948206
I ain't no wood pusher son

>>948182
Lexan. Always lexan.

>>948106

you're not likely to find that unless it's from an old unit someone threw away. however, you can buy that material at Home Depot , etc, in sheets of, maybe 4ft x 2 ft. they're in the building materials section, next to the wood. you'd have to cut it with an acrylic knife, and rig it to stay in place, maybe with some wire pushed thru tiny holes drilled in the plastic and in the fixture.

the other option is to say, "Fuck it, it's a garage, so who cares?"

Thanks. I might just try that

stronger magnet. or acetylene torch. sledgehammer. plastic explosives. saw. time machine.

>>947817
don't know what material the hole is in, think I covered all possible materials

>>947816
its stuck in your butt isnt it?