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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 675. page

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>>929644

its illegal according to US law. and as per the rules of 4chan, it isnt allowed here as well. /diy/ isnt here to help you with illegal activities.
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>>929645
actually they are legal to make, just not for sale.

https://transition.fcc.gov/eb/jammerenforcement/jamfaq.pdf
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>>929662
or use

Hi everyone, I bought a Makita Hammer Drill and need to know which model it is, help me please, I googled some images and take a picture with my cellphone. Sorry the bad english, Thanks again
11 posts and 3 images submitted.
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here is another image of the Drill, thanks again
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Just search the model number
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Open it and see if you can find a part number on anything and then annex that to your search term, you'll maybe find the parts page for the model of drill. Then you know which model it is.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0ijqeeHmA0

How to do the man bun, PROPERLY, for mid to long hair types.

The less you think about the steps as you do this, the better - it should be more of an instinctual process. The key is how much you pull through the elastic as you don't want it to be floppy or sag - you want it to sit high up on the head and be tight - and thus any extra you are going to want to wrap around - or you are going to want to fold the hair as you pull it through, so when you put it through the second loop of the elastic it keeps it all tightly bunched together. If the manbun starts to sag afterwards you have done it wrong - it should remain tight all day and allow you to swing your hair back and forth.

Wrapping the excess around the man bun base will allow you to deal with the excess without it showing, while still keeping a rather messy look - you'd think having really long hair would prohibit a nice tight manbun look but it does not.

Imo you don't want to start doing a manbun at the back of your head - this will strain the scalp hairs too much and can also cause premature balding as it can damage the front follicles - you want a spot on your head that equally strains ALL the hairs equally, so that no hair follicles have to bear the brunt of the weight - the position in the video shows the ideal spot.

So yeah, if you like these videos, let me know what else you would like to see or hear from me! :)
15 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>929034
>So yeah, if you like these videos, let me know what else you would like to see or hear from me! :)
Am I on fucking youtube right now or something?
Take your cum dribbling somewhere else
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>>929034

thx for the tips, I'll try this with the beard hair on my neck so it doesn't get in my food.
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Hey that's pretty cool. Everyone told me though when I had a mustache I let it be too wide. Do you have a grooming guide for them

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I didn't see one so I am gonna open it in the hopes that someone can help.

Two years ago I did a course in which I studied AutoCAD, I was really good at it but forgot most of it since then, so I am trying to refresh it. Now when I studied I used the standard of my country, and now I am interested in using an international or european standard as I am in a different country.

Would you be able to point me in the right direction as what kind of landscape and portrait templates(image related) are used in Europe as a general basis for Industrial Maintenance area. Also what kind annotation standard is in use.
13 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>928993
Europe use ISO and DIN (german) standards ( for mechanical engineering ) most of the time.
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>>928996
Do you have a example template for those standards on A4?
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>>928999
The 'standards' are just print sizes. There's no standards designed for the title block. Just put the titleblock on the bottom of the unbound side of the plans, i.e. opposite the staples.

Title blocks usually are organized with information vertically in more or less this order:
Project title
Drawing description
Drawing number
Scale (either the scale used or the word 'varies' if multiple drawings or sections in different scales are present)
Page number
Revision
Architect/engineer name
Firm


The fact is most firms have their own titleblock designs organized in various ways. But as long as you include all the above information in more or less that order everyone will easily understand what's going on.

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So my guitar fell today and it sort of cracked. Is there any way to fix it?
9 posts and 1 images submitted.
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You can try epoxy and sanding/refinishing however if ther is any separation of the body and sides then you will need to secure this. My suggestion is if the guitar is worth more ham 1000 just take it to a licensed luthor. Otherwise ou will probably just fuck it up
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>>928542
It just cracked on there and part of it chipped
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Leave it alone. It adds character.

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RC Rover to watch your house

Hello guys, I want a wifi RC rover or an RC spy tank to watch my house.

However: all these so called wifi rovers or wifi spy tanks don't connect to your wifi so you can drive and watch them when you are not at home, but they make their own wifi network, so you can only use them when you sit next to it. Which kinda ruins the point.

I was wondering if any of you guys know where I would go to do something like this or make it myself even.

Basicly I want to drive around in my house when i'm not at home and I want to be able to view and move the camera.

Thanks for the ideas
40 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>926551

I was kinda thinking I really want an RC Excavator with the reason I can maybe use parts of it. And its fucking fun anyway, it brings back the kid in you. But it could be used to put a camera on the arm and maybe turn the basket into some sort of claw for some extra fun. So lets say I buy a cheap RC shovel. Then I need an IP camera with battery and some way to control this thing on my smartphone over the internet.

How the hell would I go about doing this?

it seems fun as fuck though, instead of playing flappy bird or whatever I go on mars missions inside my own house

I could even do some bonus shit like making a charging dock where I can drive against when the battery is running low. And some mirrors placed under my bed so you can watch yourself drive. Oh and lights, gotta have lights on there.
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>>926556
I've been looking at some RC excavators at Gearbest, Dealextreme, Banggood and shit but they are expensive as fuck to send to my country (i live in europe) so I might need to keep looking to find a good one I can use for this project.

I want one with real tracks and something that is a bit sturdy. Many probably use weak as fuck servo's and no real hydraulics, but i kinda wanna do it as cheap as possible so I dont think I have any choice
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Basicly this

also rate my paintskills

Hey anons! I would ask a more relevant costuming board like /cgl/ but this is more specifically related to electronics, so I feel that there are probably people with more knowledge on this than me.

Long story short, I make costumes for a local performance group and the costumes I'm helping them design at the moment feature RGB LED strips on the dress. Each dress uses roughly a full roll (5m) of LEDs, and the basic version of this dress runs flawlessly, running a single colour just fine.

However, they want the LEDs programmable via remote/iPhone/what have you so that the LEDs flash/change in time to their routines as well as being sensitive to sound -- I've looked at a couple options, such as the WiFi/Bluetooth modules for LED strips that are controllable by remote or mobile device, and while these would more or less serve the function I need from these dresses the main issue I'm coming across is being able to control the whole group's costumes at once (not individually).

Is it possible to control all the lights at once? Would a microcontroller such as an Arduino work better for this purpose?
11 posts and 3 images submitted.
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I'm confused. Do they want the lights to be wirelessly controlled through a central interface in real time, or do they simply want to be able to program the lights with a choreographed sequence?
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>>929928
>>929924
for a choreographed light sequence, a simple timed controller, like how timed powerpoint transitions works, would work.

Anouk Wipprecht used DMX controllers to run her VW exposition. she goes into it very basically (she has a sheldon to do the programming and hardware stuff so her technical knowhow isnt terribly in depth but goes over how it worked for the show) https://vimeo.com/79291807

depending on how professional this is, it might be worth your while to look at wireless DMX control since any sort of nightclub, theatre or decent hall should have a DMX control system so that you program a lighting system, so like you're going to want to turn the spotlights off for certain sections of the dance so that the 0.5w LEDs arnt outshined by a 500W spotlight.
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posting Anouk Wipprecht because she bridges the divide between /cgl/ and /diy/

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Hello, I don't know if this is the right place to ask, but I would like to create a sound insulation for my room by myself.
The problem is my upstairs neighbors, some lazy ass "students" who are home all day and do nothing but noise.
They walk barefoot or with their shoes on, and I can hear everything vibrating.
They can't speak normally, they can only shout, and apparently they don't sleep, as they don't go quiet even at night.
They rarely blast loud music/television though, so the problem is only the noise propagating (the vibrations are sometimes so strong I can actually feel them).
What is the best sound insulation solution for "stomping" noises?
Also, sorry for my English, not being it my mothertongue.
13 posts and 2 images submitted.
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There's fuck all you can do about that m8y
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>>929177
If you're in the states then you file a noise complaint with the landlord
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>>929177
When they're shouting, call the police and say there's a domestic dispute in the apartment. Keep repeating every day you hear them shout. They'll stop.

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So I bought this Gerber folding knife (Scout) and I loved it but I hate how it looks. The huge BG initials and the signature I can live with, but the orange plastic looks awful in my opinion. What could I use to coat the plastic with? I'm looking for a grey/black coat that wouldn't wear off so easily and sustain some abuse.
34 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Dye that penetrates the plastic, probably.
It's the BG and signature I couldn't accept...
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>>928764
I could probably remove the BG with some acetone, but I think the signature is laser engraved.
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Mine cost $9.

Why don't you just get one that isn't ugly to begin with?

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I work night shift which means I need to sleep during the day, problem is there's too much light in my bedroom, even with the curtains closed. The curtain rods are about 3" away from the window frame and I'm renting so I can't move them closer or install blackout blinds.

I'm not just going to put foil over the windows as I don't live in the ghetto, so I had a few ideas

1) sheets of white cardboard (cut to size) on the inside of the window glued to black cardboard to block light

2) rig up a frame to put a temporary curtain rod inside the window box

3) find a way to mount strips of fabric to cover the gaps at the top and side of the curtains

I'm working through some designs and the pros and cons of each but it'd be great if you could brainstorm with me to make sure I'm not being retarded about anything.
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>>927343
I bought floor length blackout curtains and put a towel in the air gap at the top. Then put dinder clips along the seam of the two panels. Then bunch the curtains up as best you can to the ends of the curtain rod to help keep the curtains pressed against the wall.

Barely any light gets into the room after that.
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>>927350
Also forgot. Many older drywall corner flashings are ferric steel instead of the modern aluminium ones. Get a magnet and see if it sticks to the corner of the window frame. If it does you can get some small neodymium disks to keep the curtain in place
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>>927352
Unfortunately it's aluminium.

I guess I could always bluetack some magnets inside the runner for the window, although that would limit how far I could open the window.

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Hello /diy/

So I'm sure some of you are familiar with Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy. For my man cave I want my door to sigh when it opens and closes.

I can't find anything online to buy that does it, so I guess I'm going to have to make one. I don't expect to start with shit like this right away, build my way up to it with smaller projects.

I've messed a bit with electronics. I've built a Jacobs ladder and a tesla coil, replaced capacitors on computers, and so forth.

Anyway tl;dr

I wanna build a sighing door thing, but haven't really messed with things like this - where do I begin?
4 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Arduino and many other microcontrollers can play WAV files because those are just a sequence of voltage levels you dump to a DAC. You'll probably want to connect an amplifier to that because a speaker driven directly will be quite. Have a switch trigger the sound to play when the door is opened. A reed switch or hall effect sensor will form a switch triggered by a magnet which is a popular way to implement door burglar alarms.
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NEW RECORD MESSAGES TALKING PICTURE FRAME SILVER.

you just wire a switch across the 'play' button on the front. could be a self-adhesive magnetic switch, so you dont mar the door.
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Waist way would be a limit switch. Door opens it trips, door closes it trips. From the switch you could go to any number of devices. Eg... that dudes talking picture frame.

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Do you think he can do it? how likely do you think it is that he will succeed?

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCvy2WbTeS6-9_JA_Ax-V_XQ
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>>929791
Meh, he seem's to have his airframes down tight, these are the most viable attempts I've seen so far, because, well, these things actually look kind of aerodynamic. He really needs to learn how to wing though,

> dat mainplane
> the camber was fat

If he can work out how to airfoil he'll have my sword.
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>>929791
not with that dirty ass airfilter.
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>>929799
It might work. It's certainly not unprecedented to have a ~20% thick flat-bottomed airfoil. This one looks like a close match, and performs okayish at Cl around 1.0: http://airfoiltools.com/airfoil/details?airfoil=goe384-il

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Hello. I finished now building my Faraday cage, by glueing aluminium can's sheets around a shoebox. But when I tested, it didn't work. I've put one wireless home telephone inside it, and pressed the button on the base that makes the phone beeps, in order to allow the owner discovering where the hell is the telephone. It beeps as there was no aluminium around it... What have I done wrong?
33 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Faraday cages need to be earthed.
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>>929110
OK, I connected the aluminium layer of the cage to the "ground" of the power outlet, and it still beeps. Whould I remove the external protection layer (anti-oxidation) of the aluminum sheet?
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>>929106
>What have I done wrong?
You should design an actual Faraday cage for the specific RF you want to block instead of merely putting something in a box covered with aluminium. That almost does nothing.
The first step is to acquire a little bit of autonomous problem solving capability: start like this: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+design+faraday+cage

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Anyone make their own clothing here?

I was wondering how much of an investment, time-wise, it would be to pick it up as a skill. I buy clothing quire rarely - part of the reason being that reasonably priced stuff either a) fits terribly, b) falls apart in under a year, or c) both.

I'm not really at the income bracket where I can afford to pay a tailor for practically every piece of clothing I own, so I figure this could be a happy middle. Obviously I'm not going to be making my own suits right out the gate (though that's definitely a long-term goal) but what about simple trousers and the like?
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>928941
It's a lot of work. If you can get a second hand sewing machine cheaply, you can begin by buying oversized things from goodwill and taking them apart, and getting them to fit you.
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>>928946
It's a lot of practice that is needed.

Buy thrift or factory outlet and learn to alter clothing to fit you well. Start with thrift, practice altering t-shirts (should be under $1 at any thrift store) to fit your torso. Then move up to pants. It helps if you are relatively thinner than normal, as it's very easy to take in, while harder to let out. Then move up to altering sport coats, as long as the shoulder fit is good, altering is simple. Suits are the final stage, again work on cheap ones before moving up in price.

Another way to practice is patching high wear items, like socks and underwear.

Do this until the opportunity cost of doing this outweighs the substantial costs savings. Or just keep on doing it as a hobby.
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>>928941
the cutties on >>>/cgl/ might be more helpfull than us /diy/nossaurs

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I want to buy some RGB led lights for indoor use but I couldn't find one that comes with an adapter. Like this one, all of them just have a tiny bit of cable.

Question is, how can I make it work? What kind of cable should I buy that has the same wires in it so I can solder them together? Also how do I know if it would work with 220V?
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>929148
normally they tell you what voltage they work on.
if it works on mains voltage just attach a plug to the wire and plug it in
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>>929148

In Canada the cable you'd use is called cabtyre, no idea about bong/euro land. Just go to an electrical supplier and ask for flexible cord with three conductors. You won't need anything fancy.
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>>929148
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbt2ojkXPuo
You should buy standard mains cable that has three wires. If I were you I'd take it apart and solder the wires directly to the driver inside the box, instead of hacking it on the outside.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/10W-RGB-LED-Floodlight-IP65-Waterproof-Stainless-LED-Light-With-IR-Remote-For-Outdoor-Wall-High/1338974011.html?spm=2114.40010308.4.95.y7K1sk
This oe says it works with voltages between 100 and 245 volts, so it must be some high tech shit.

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