Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 567. page

It really depends on the items themselves. If these are a set that were purchased retail-like then its probably safe to restore them to silver shine to get the most value out of them.

If they are are made by a particularly desired manufacturer or artisan, and wanted by collectors for their provenance; then its best to leave them as-is until directed otherwise. (This is few and far between, we're talking about silverware used in the Lincoln household and stuff sold at places like Tiffany)

Coins you never ever clean.

>>973621
If you plan on keeping them to possibly use and hand down, then clean away.

There's commercially available silver polish available at stores. But you can make some at home.

Start easy by using an aluminum cooking pot or a steel pot lined with foil. Fill it with hot water and a tablespoon of powdered laundry detergent. Drop it in and wait for the tarnish to disappear as much as it will, about a minute or two. Rinse in cool water and dry off. A good portion of the heavy tarnish will be removed.

Next I find ketchup works best. Ketchup on a rag and buff away. Rinse, wash, and dry once polished.

Its possible that heavily tarnished silver will have lost its smooth polished sheen even once the tarnish is removed. In this case youll need a fine buffing compound and plenty of elbow grease.

>>973628
Yeah, theyre hand made and have the makers mark on them. I actually couldnt find anything by the maker that wasnt cutlery though, so i guess that means theyre slightly rare?

>>973630
thanks, they've gone pretty dark and have not only wine stains but also corrossion on the exterior from oily fingers. Do you use the buffing compound aafter the pot method? Is that redox reaction with the foil?

>r u grill?
rattan/reed/bamboo screen/fence.
element proof, reasonable compromise between sight block / air passage, looks OK, reed stuff is cheep, etc.

>>973552
Tin foil. just tin foil the whole fucking fence. you cannot deny this is the best idea ever. you get maximum rays from all angles, while heaving maximum privacy.

try cutting evenly spaced downward v shape slits in the fabric, don't tie the fabric taught, leave it to flex.

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>>973431

Here is a close up.

>>973431
there are plenty of ways to fix it. However, they will all take more time AND cost more than spending $30 on a door of the same size and moving all the hardware. you'll need a drill, drill bits and screwdriver/bits. Possibly a chisel if you didn't get the door that is mortised out and it matters to you.

but if it REALLY matters to you, the only fix I've seen that doesn't sound just awful, is get a can of expanding foam insulation, cut out the hole to clean edges, spray the foam inside, and sand it down to a profile you're happy with, possibly patch it with wood putty (which is easier to shape since it doesn't expand).
Then carefully carve striations in the surface to match the wood grain texture of the door, then paint it.
So $5 for foam, $5 for paint, $5 for sandpaper, 5$ for putty, and at LEAST 3 hrs of work to MAYBE get a decent result and save $10-15.

Just fill flat with white filler/plaster. Finger in the grain lines to match if you must. Noone will fucking notice again till its kicked again and it falls out.

A think you posted on the wrong board. >>>/o/

How...?
I swear i poster on o

>>973249
Judging by your spelling and grammar you probably shouldn't be driving anything that may require a good level of coordination.

Why not petrol axe?

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>>973190
the amount of teeth has nothing at all to do with the hardness of the wood. similarly, the term hardwood has nothing to do with the hardness of the wood.

hardwood is a colloquial term for angiosperms.

the amount of teeth determines the speed and inversely the roughness of the cut.

>>973190
You want a saw that had spearfast or lightening teeth for felling, or any cross cut with a low tpi or tooth per inch if you can't find that.

How many buttons do you need?
If it's like 4-5 just get an universal remote with the correct ranges.
At this point you look up any kind of code you find on the old systems to identify them and either snoop the right frequency or see if it's on a sticker inside

Youre out of luck unless you have a job in the auto industry. Contact the nearest Ford dealership

>>973008
I really just need Lock, unlock and start, never had a remote start before so im not really sure how that works, just think it would be cool for winter, it gets cold as all hell up here

>>972985
Gonna want something with DSP ability to process voice. And also either a DAC or PWM for synth. Something in the ARM M4 or above series.

>>972985
is that porn?

>>972996

VoCore

http://vocore.io/

http://hackaday.com/2014/05/24/vocore-the-tiny-internet-of-things-thing/

>>972881
On purpose?

Got some bad advice and didn't look up guide's until I was almost done

>>972908
not fucked at all. just say its the european look.

Bought a bunch of these at work. Less air flow but they filter well and have hepa. Not that it makes a pinch when they dont suck enough. Wasnt my call, id go hvlp anyday.

I'm going to go on a total assumption and suggest that licensed and insured lead paint removal services requires vacuums with HEPA filtration.

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>>972856
Because it's a festool. They are the literal definition of buying a name instead of what is better.

Watch AvE's hilarious festool saw tear down. It's harbor freight tier shit.

That picture makes me angry.

Also, it's not going to be silent.

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>>972723

It will be if i minimise the current, cut the piezo into a strip to reduce its area, and place it inside a lump of epoxy

>>972693
Yes, will work. Remember, low power, low current, or it will end up in smoke.

No idea if reputable, but they tell you who made the plans and after you find the right boat that's enough to find the shipwrights website.


http://boatplans.cc/plans/

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>>972606
From experience helping a friend build a ski boat I can recommend Glen-L. They have frame kits available for most of their designs and that's a good place to start if you want to build a fair (true to shape) hull. Clark Craft is another old school kit manufacturer. My best advice is to make sure your work is perfect. Any little imperfection in the outer surface of your hull will cause a surprising amount of drag. Fill and sand, trim and sand, check and check again or you'll end up with a slow tub of a boat. Gonna buy me a Glen-L "Flying Saucer" kit (see pic) someday when I've got more time to devote to boat building. Best of luck with your endeavor, and remember, no ripples and no warps.

>>972606
there are a ton of simple dinghy plans from the 60's available fro free.

Personally, my plan (before I found one free on craigslist) was to build a sail catamaran out of two skin on frame canoes/kayaks with leeboards.

here's a few free plans
http://www.freewoodworkingplan.com/index.php?search=sailboat

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UPDATE: I found the control panel, it looks like this. I doesn't even have buttons. Shit.

>>972515
No, you are clearly clueless, you can't solve this problem on your own. Get a guy to do it for you.

>I can hear the engines moving

im going to say it's something between the gate and the engines........

and for a hint it's not the control board

>>972239
>crests/badges
The have a pin backing so just get something like cork and put it in the back of the frame. Cover it with a nice fabric or paper or something and push them right through.

>patches
Pins. Like for sewing. Paint the heads a matching color and push them threw the patch and into the cork.

>>972243
op here, honestly I wasn't even thinking of that, I was going to snap the posts off the back of the crests and glue them straight onto the mat, but now I guess I may have to look into that idea of cork. as far as the pins go, I guess if I use enough the patch shouldn't start to sag?

>>972247
I have a 1st Cav patch held up by 3 pins. Two at the top corners, one at the bottom. Its the largest patch in the US Army and its held up for several years without a problem. Patches tend to be pretty thick though, unless you get some knock off crap. They are stiff and hard to bend. If you have a floppy patch then its not a 'real' patch and will probably need more pins.

Why not have a larger wand and have it powered by lightning?

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yeah, that'll work great

>>971925
>trees
>power lines aren't all the same
>two+ laned roads
>over taking someone

I could go on but I hope you start to realise how dumb this is.

>>971911
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WKmzlMvxC7I

look up this channel
this guy is pretty awesome,

I've been working on one for a year, close to finishing it. Didn't have much time to work on it due to uni and shipping times from China are shit too at 3 weeks.
Mine's controlled by an Arduino Uno using DRV8825 motor drivers and a driver shield, small NEMA23 steppers driving 12mm trapezoid rods powered by a 240W 24V PSU. It has a 550W router mounted and the frame is made of 3030 alu profiles, a 30mm version of the 8020 profiles.
Initially I was going to use 12mm steel rods with LM12UU linear bearings for mounting each axis, but Y and X bent under the weight way too much, so I splurged a bit and got a bunch of these:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/SBR12-rail-L500mm-12mm-linear-guide-cnc-router-part-linear-rail-SBR12-rails/1313496588.html
These are solid as fuck. I want it to be good enough to mill aluminum though. I've spent around $600 on it, but a lot of that was on mistakes, if I knew what I was doing I could've gotten away with around $450.
However, if you only want a small CNC for wood, plastic and PCB, stuff like >>971929 or your picture is good enough and a fair bit cheaper; NEMA17 steppers and a dremel mounted. You may use belts in these cases but belts stretch, so you can't really achieve great precision in harder materials, aluminum is definitely out of question.

>>971911

I'm trying to do this also

right now I'm just working on the motor control circuitry and software