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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 571. page

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Hey /diy/,
This may be something a bit more inclined to an art board, but since it's not really about making the art but coming up with different media it might fit here.

I currently work in ceramics, and have been experimenting with new and unusual clay types, such as a range of red to black to blue. Lately I've been looking at weird or wacky inclusions or even levels of material in the clay itself. What sorts of materials might you guys suggest to try in test tiles as inclusions? Currently I'm working with a fairly plain base of 45 OM4, 40 Hawthorne Bond, 10 Custer Feld and 5 Silica, and adding inclusions of 50, 25, and 10g increments on top.

Some stuff currently on the to do list-
Bone Ash (then found bone china, trying recipes on that next)
Wood Ash
Soda Ash
Bentonite

Also if anyone has any recommendations to changes to the base clay or recipes to interchange feel free as well. I should also mention the above is a body that works for both throwing and handbuilding, though my goal would be more towards the latter personally.
13 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>970866
I forgot to mention! I will definitely try any recommendations, and would be more than happy to bring back any results, with pictures of test tiles, notes etc
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>not throwing a feldspar-less kaolin/silica mix and firing at Δ20
P L E B
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I've seen paperclay which is pretty cool.

What would happen if you included iron filings or something like that?

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Trying to come up with an idea for a manual hand-crank 'furnace' for 'sucking' in air into a closed-off compartment
How can I create negative air pressure inside the chamber?
A Fan?
Some sort of rotary engine type entry?
Can this work?
Is it viable?
Just going for forced induction for a greater amount of oxygen inside the chamber = Larger flame...?
9 posts and 4 images submitted.
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I want a gf
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>>970850
Wat?

You're trying to make a hand crank forge blower?
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Hand crank, gearbox, and a squirrel cage blower fan...

Or, just go to the junkyard and pull any blower motor assembly out of a dashboard and power it with 12 VDC. You'll be able to move plenty of air with one of those

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i just got a flight stick for games (was a used one) and when i got it the joystick was catching on....nothing and making it very hard to control my aircraft, now i know what needs to be lubed but i don't know what is safe for plastics....any ideas?
19 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Silicone spray
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>>970805
trying to keep it around the house stuff for now untill i start my new job. but i have heard the good in it.
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>>970807
it's like $2.50 a can at walmart

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'Sup /diy/. About a month ago my central vac died. After taking it all apart, I couldn't find anything wrong, so I put power directly on the motor. It worked, so I figured with a relay I could bypass all the original massive circuit boards and just have a 12v line trigger a relay to turn the motor on.

My problem is that this motor is massive and would present a huge inductive load on the circuit. Just to be safe, I'll assume 15A at 120V. At present, I just have it on a plug that I plug in when I need it and unplug when I'm done. But this is clumsy and annoying, and I get that arc every time I do it. What can I do to make this vacuum turn on with a relay at a reasonable price? I don't mind soldering or wiring at all, but I don't even know where to start on a circuit or proper relay. Every relay with HP ratings or inductive ratings high enough I can find is $80 minimum.

Any advice on motors and relays would be greatly appreciated. Or perhaps where to buy a suitable relay at a suitable price. (Hard mode: Canadafag here) Thanks /diy/.
23 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>970759
the busted ass controller must have had some system to switch the load, see how they did it.
then again that might have been why it failed.

if its higher power try contactors but it might actually be more expensive
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>>970759
What about a solid state relay? A 100A SSR from China can be found on the internets for ~$15 cdn, and should be big enough to withstand the inrush current. Full disclosure: I don't really know what I'm talking about.
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>>970782
Solid state is good for rapid switching, not so good for continuous load unless you way oversize the motherfucker.

>>970759
A: look at the motherfucking unit
B: find the continuous amp rating on the motor
C: Go to Home Depot, get a thermal circuit breaker rated to what you found in step B
D: wire the line lead to the breaker and the neutral straight to the motor

This gives you over current protection (a must if you're fucking around with mains power) and an easy way to turn the motherfucker on without melting an outlet.

A little over a month ago I bought a PoulanPro with a B&S 450E in it. So far I have used it 3 times. Each time but the first I have had to pull and clean out the carb. Any suggestions to prevent this? I am planning on adding an inline fuel filter from the tank to help catch any sediment. Just wondering if anyone had any other suggestions.
16 posts and 4 images submitted.
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>>970748
Mix it with your gas. Also run the mower until it runs out of fuel.
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>>970748
Youprobably hae some gunk and water (from condensation) in the fuel tank. Before you fit the filter, disconnect the fuel line and let the tank drain completely, toss away the waste gasoline (or use it for bbq starter) and fill it up with 90%gas and 10% ethanol. That shoul clean most of the shit out.

Also; since you wrote that you already cleaned out the carburettor twice, I'm assuming you already checked all valves, et c. If you didn't, et an air compressor and start working. Inside and outside.
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>>970748
Not to insult your intelligence but I'd consult your owner's manual. Simple machines and engines can have really finicky requirements most of the time. If you're not adding enough engine oil, or the wrong grade, or too much, or you're not doing the choke right, or you're priming it wrong with a return line valve that should be open when it needs to be closed, ect. A lot of shade-tree mechanics will overlook shit like that.

Without ever having meeting you or seen your shitty lawnmower I'm guessing it's the fuel mix.

Those goofy snake-oil fuel cleaner things might be a 4th option, after everything else has failed.

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Greetings /diy/ !

Recently got interested in customizing and making guitar myself. Because my lack of experience and due the availability and pricing of parts in my lovely overtaxed Scandinavian homeland, I thought it'd be easier to start of with one of those standard type (lp, strato, tele etc.) kits. That way I'd have reference parts to play around with and learn. Sure enough, there's a trustworthy online store that offers those at a relatively low cost of around 90 euros with postage and some degree of quality assurance though definitely not expecting much.

But being the cheap bastard that I am, I scouted for cheaper alternatives and ended up finding kits like the headless one (pictured) and even knock of Jem's and other models with Floyd Rose type floating tremolos. These were offered in some "specialized" European webstores for around 200 - 400 euro ranges. Which would be a bargain if it was genuine factory parts but I see the same kits offered on Alibaba in Bulks for half the price from China.

So to the point: Has anyone ever dared to build one these headless model kits or knockoff Jems or knows a way to order this shit from China without breaking the bank with middle men?
13 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>970726
I would just buy a used guitar which is what I did. With musical instruments, especially guitars, buy one, learn to play a few chords, learn 'Smoke on the Water' get bored with it and either let it sit collecting dust or they sell it. Most used instruments are barely-used and relatively cheap. I dunno if there is some weird tax on guitars where you live but a used, basic Squier Strat should'nt cost much more that 200-400 euros. I bought my in Alaska used at a music store for $170 and it included an amp.

If a kit is incomplete don't be surprised if the cost of the piece that's missing doesn't sum up to be about what you'd have paid if some guy in China assembled it for you.
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>>970734
"Recently got interested in customizing and making guitar myself."
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>>970743
Sorry I tend to skip the first few sentences of whatever I read.

That being said, I don't know why you'd try to assemble a custom electric guitar with the cheapest possible parts from some made-in-china kit from online unless you just want a cheap guitar.

Just get a good guitar that's used.

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I stay in 25years old High Rise building. Im at top floor and my water pressure sucks. It gets worst due to rusted pipe inside my walls. Tried 0.3hp water pump directly from meter. There was slight improvement. But water pump blown to amount of rust formed in the motor itself. Looking for alternative such as installing filter, then water tank and pump water to house inlet. Any suggestions to do it in cheaper cost ?
17 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Please learn English, I'll try to help you the best I can, try running a snake down the pipe and pour CLR in it at the same time.
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>>970674
I will give a try. Thanks for the advice
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>>970677
Also, when you are done, be sure to let the water run for like 5 minutes to get the CLR out of the pipes.

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Does /diy/ have any ideas what i could make with these small patches of leather?
>pic related
20 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Patchwork leather dildos
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Custom phone cases? Stick them on the outside of a basic phone shell, lining up the hole with the hole left for the phone camera lens.
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>Hi guys I have a piece of garbage, what can i do with it? btw no tools, ideas, or desires

Give it back to the vendor you got it from or place it in the trash.

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How do I bore straight into wood usin only a drill and wood boing bits?
7 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>970572
Use a new, sharp bit, preferably brad point. Use jigs/channels to line up the bit. Check your setup and accuracy about eight times. Advance fairly slowly, clearing chips often. Pray.

>still gonna follow the grain at least a little bit the majority of the time
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>>970572
You are approaching this all wrong. Your only hope is to start with a small diameter pilot hole. Unless the grain is perfectly straight, drilling won't work and even if the grain is straight, drilling is a 5% chance. I make tomahawks and the pipe ones have the haft holed for smoking. The only thing that works is to use a small diameter steel rod heated to cherry red and plunged through the center. It's slow go, an inch or so at a time but it will allow you to stay true and centered. Once you have the pilot hole, you can use slightly larger diameter drills to enlarge the hole as big as you need.
>>
depending on the size of the piece, consider turning the piece and keeping the drill still. That way it centers itself. Only possible if your piece fits into your chuck though.

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H-how can I DIY my kettle such that I can turn it on via wifi?
21 posts and 4 images submitted.
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>>970542
use a wifi adapter on the power switch
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>>970543
But it's likely a mechanical switch
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>>970546
Then no.

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Good resistant paint for steel, aluminum...? I always making things of steel and aluminum, and always when I try to give a good finish, I paint then with black paint, but it seems the paint does not last a scratch... It is there any type of paint with a good resistance... I don't want the paint to be chipped out the next day...
9 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Clear polyurethane
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>>970540
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Op here, no need for primer then?

How much work is involved in becoming a surveyor (while also being a student)?

Is it possible?
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>>970497
uhh, you need a university degree for that. it's an associate engineering degree at the least. there is more to surveying than just putting down a theodolite. you need to understand geology and trigonometry.
>you are surveying potential roads
>you find yourself in a location
>is it the best location? it's flat and dry
>it's fucking sand and it will wash out
>is this going to build the best road?
>must balance initial investment with maintenance and benefit

>you are surveying
>the power company wants to put a power pylon up around here
>how hard is it going to be to get machinery in here?
>will a truck bog down in the mud?
>will it fall over?
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>>970499
okay thanks. makes sense really. didnt know you needed an eng degree though. thats what im studying at the moment and thought i might be able to pull some small surveying role at the same time (i think i'd understand the geol and trig).

but just looking up qualifications and it says to become a registered surveyor takes 2 years practical experience.. by that time i'll have the eng degree anyway.

and i'm guessing that no one wouldn't take on any unregistereds
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>>970502
no one would*

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So I made my own foundry and am powering it with a hair dryer and charcoal and have an old steel fire extinguisher as the crucible.

I was told it should get hot enough to melt copper but I can't seem to quite get it there. Tried today and after an hour and a shit load of charcoal it still wasn't hot enough.

Anyone have any advice on how to get this thing up to temp? I don't have a lid for it but I could make one, how much would that help?

Also I hear coal will give better results but I don't know where to find any.

Would making the diameter of the foundry help? So that I can get more burning fuel in there?
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Also the metal seemed to be getting contaminated as fuck by all the charcoal ash floating around. How do I deal with that?
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>>970412
I think the problem with this type of forge is that most of your heat is blown out with the jet of air. You need an insulated lid with a little hole in the centre.

I think you would have better luck with a graphite arc or resistance furnace.
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>>970419
Alright, thanks for the advice, I'll try making a lid first as its the least work and if not I'll look into those other things.

How much money would they take to put together. Trying to be as cheap about this as I can.

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what do you guys think of my bunker?
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>>970387
Too memey. Please, delete.
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>>970392
>8848x2880

When did /diy/ allow images over 5000x5000? Why wasn't I notified. This is life altering.
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What? No dragon dildos? Fucking kiddo.

Hear me out /diy/
The pic related is a repeating crossbow as you can tell.
Now, i have been intrigued thinking of ways to improve it. Then i remembered the crossbow in Skyrim.
If you remember it, it had a lever that pulls the string into place and readies the trigger, the bolt in manually jammed into the slot and the string is behind it ready to shoot.
Then i look at the chinese one with a cartridge above, gravity drops the bolts into place and there is no trigger, just push-pull until its empty and there are no cross-hairs because of the cartridge.
Also, i remembered the lever on the Winchester rifle, the one around the trigger that you push down and it loads a bullet.
The question i ask you is how can those 3 be combined?
-cartridge below
-lever (like the one i saw in Syrim) is expanded down to the trigger (winchester rifle)
-the bolt from the cartridge is loaded into place and ready to fire
-cartridges can be replaced, reloaded
- OR a pump action crossbow that has a replaceable cartridge

I just need ideas on improvement and realization of the project and suggestions.
Also, it will be made out of spring-steel, wood and iron.
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Best you could do is a spring loaded magazine at the bottom and a stopper on the top to keep the bolts from just flying out. Probably less accurate.

Trying to improve on the manual cranking isn't going to happen. You don't just pull the string backwards. You are transferring energy from your muscles to the crossbow limbs.

And these repeating crossbows were quite weak compared to "real" ones, otherwise it would have been unusable.

If you want to improve on it while keeping it a crossbow, add some pneumatics.
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>>970290
Yeah a lever-action crossbow would involve your feet and you leaning most of your body-weight on it to cock it.

Otherwise, a stiff lever pulling back a string would have about as much energy as you throwing a brick.

If you need a gun, OP, just go buy a gun.
>>
well what you have in your picture is a "Chu-ko-nu"

it fires an arrow in one motion by using the arrow magazine to draw the string, pre-knocking the bolt

they were made to fire a voley of tiny arrows very quickly, and were used en-masse by relatively untrained archers to hinder an enemies pike formations

they were neither accurate or powerful, because the draw is relying on a single action lever fired from the upright position
you COULD make a powerful version, but that would lower your rate of fire and at that point the whole design looses effectiveness

you could make a pump action version easily by loosing the lever and attaching the magazine to a slide, but it would be even weaker because it would be a bad position to draw with bow arm from
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zEuIwpYv3P0 (terrible video, but good design for a toy bow)

you could also hinge the lever under the bow instead of on top, but physics dictates the length of the lever is proportional to the ease with which you can apply force to it

I think some kid made one here that is probably close to what you want
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDEbMFYSJMs

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