Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 451. page

That's quite a large piece to 3D print, you'll either have to do it in sections and adhere it together or pay a heft premium for access to a machine with a large build volume.

>>1030744
I'm going to to it in eighths, 4 will fit in a maker bot.

>>1030745
I'm honestly not sure how you'd do it but it might be worth crafting some sort of jig to keep everything true. The only thing I can think of is a truncated conical hole in a block of wood, turned on a lathe.

Centrifugal go cart clutches are cheap as hell

>>1030416
this

>>1030397
>I will be mounting it onto a bicycle

i hope its a kids bike or you have a fuck huge rear sprocket. if its an adult size bike, that motor isn't going to have the torque to get you going.

For future reference, wet electronics should be put in a bag of uncooked rice and left to sit for 3 days

>>1029455
What popped was the big transformer in the middle arcing over. And these transformers are getting less and less common in place of PWM type power supplies. These have quite a bit of copper wire inside them and this is what makes them expensive.
Said arching most likely overvolted that mosfet you have there and it let out the blue smoke of death.

Theoretically yout could get some copper wire and re wind your transformer and swap out the mosftet for a similar one. But this would cost a lot of money since copper wire is sold in bulk and ain't as cheap as it was. Mosfets are af tho and a new one wont cost more than a dollar at most.

Get a new power supply its like 20-30$ or buy one used. Most laptops have the same specks anyway.

Thanks for the replies!

Update:

I tried plugging it into the wall socket again (not plugged into the laptop) and the buzzing noise that I was getting from when it was plugged in is gone. Is it possible that it will work? I am afraid to plug it into my laptop to check, and my multimeter prongs are too big to fit into the jack to measure anything.

If no-one here can help, does anyone know of another site I can go to or a tutorial,etc?

You dont have to calculate shit. Thats an LED RGB SMD 5050 (5 meters long) and they make specific parts for those. One power adapter per 5 meter roll. Just dont get cheap and start guessing on whats parts to use. Just buy the proper parts. All over ebay. Get the seller to answer these questions.

You're good to go with that setup... If you google powering LEDs, you'll find a lot of confusing stuff, involving constant current, constant voltage, forward voltage, voltage drop, load resistors, parallel, series, ohms law, etc...

Looks as though these are 3 parallel at a time with individual resistors to match the current of each led if supplied with 12 volt... All you need to do is give it regulated 12 volt, (no wall warts) and the power supply you're looking at looks legit...

My only concern would be Daisy chaining these things together... Think Christmas lights. The usually tell you not to string more than X number of boxes together, because those little wires can only carry so much power...

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You'll also need a cable gland that suits your heater.

Glue all the PVC together as shown, it then needs to sit for 24hours to dissipate the fumes, which is the stage I'm currently up to. You can obviously orient the inlet and outlet so they are suitable for your tank setup before gluing.

When done, the heater goes in through the cable gland which provides a water tight seal. The outlet from your filter is then routed into the heater canister, and then out to the tank as usual.

I'll post some finished pictures tomorrow.

>>1028325

just build a fucking sump tank

>>1028328
It's only a 160ish litre tank, and I already have all the parts. Not going to have massive fish either. Sump would be overkill by a factor of about 500

>>1028129

No they work well normally. However you may need to condition the mains supply of audio devices.

>>1028129
1. this is not /g/
2. a range extender with an ethernet port sounds like an AP
3. the 2.4ghz band channels all overlap each other except 1 and 12 bear this in mind if you want any performance
4. all wifi is shitty garbage the physics can't keep up with the bandwidth demands the 5/10/whatever next ghz bands will be filled in the next 10 minutes
5. if you can drop a cable you should drop a cable. if the equiptment is fixed and you are able then drop a cable, it saves bandwidth for devices that don't have the option of cables. also cables are faster more secure and more stable

powerline is garbage too ignore it.

>>1028148
Powerline ethernet works when you aren't living in a house made in the 1940's or have shitty chinese appliances dumping noise into your lines.

I'm typing this from a powerline ethernet that goes to a router on the main floor that connects to the main router/modem in the basement and getting full 24Mbit of the connection.

To sum up it depends on your particular situation, if it doesn't work then return it.

What do you need?

Get that.

pleb

there is a 25% that ends today

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>>1027598
Anything not made specifically for Harbor Freight. They carry stuff like Liquid Wrench, WD-40, Evaporust, etc. My local one also has cleaning products like Simple Green.

>but I want tools

Read the reviews on their website. If it has 3 stars or less its garbage.

Things specifically to avoid:
Anything electrical (it will be underpowered or die on you {their grinders are decent though})
Anything sharp (it wont stay that way)
Anything you hit or hit stuff with (hammers, anvils, bench vices; they shatter)
Clamps (all of them are terrible)
Anything that could kill you if it fails (grinding wheels, jacks, engine hoists, etc)
Anything that has to hold up to the elements (tarps, greenhouses, storage lockers and sheds, etc)
Anything pneumatic (tools, compressors, inflatable tires, etc)
Any kind of wrench with a movable jaw (adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, 'Channellocks', etc)

Things that might be decent under light use:
Sockets (their ratchets are shit though)
Combo wrenches
Screwdrivers/Allen keys/etc

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Hide it behind haystacks - that always works:

>http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/farmer-who-built-castle-hidden-7658785

I thought 'Land in Maine' & 'cheap' were mutually exclusive? or is cheap, but only because you can't (legally..) build on it?

>>1025293
interesting but hideous, probably would aim to avoid doing something like that

the land is cheap because it's extremely remote and dense forest or mountainous. lots of the road access is dirt. Maine is huge

my idea is to buy either land that is state park abutting, lake abutting, ocean abutting, or canada abutting - don't want too many neighbors in my sex acres

A plan is a response to questions such as budget, specific use case, and desired square footage.

"Cheap" means shit. If you want useful information, PROVIDE useful information.

Fucked up alt housing threads are a meme here because people are just fantasizing.

It's hard to beat the traditional log cabin. Have wooded property, use the wood after clearing the land. Ignoring massive success over hundreds of years is a bit silly. There are many log cabin plans free on the internet. You can also check the internet archive for much older info on what works.

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> new to printing
> just bought a printer

How to slice&print?
I mean, what's the best program for slicing and what's the best program to send the gcode to a printer?
I've tried repsnapper and slic3r, and failed to try cura (segfaults).
repsnapper – it can send gcode to the printer (good) but failed to build a 0.4mm wall (bad)
slic3r – made a good gcode, but I need an extra app to send it to the printer...

Should I look for a separate slicer and gcode sender? Or is there a neat mix?

(pic: Chinese printer kit leftover screws in a newly printed box)

>>1023237
>what's the best program for slicing
I slice in Simplify3D or Cura

I only use my SD card slot, or sometimes use a raspberry Pi running Octoprint to serve Gcode.
Though I have had good luck with Pronterface too.

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I made a separate thread for this before I saw this but I might as well ask it here as well:

What's the cheapest 3d printer worth buying? I want to have one to make complicated smaller parts for cosplay, and make small enclosures/parts for projects.

Bigger printing area = better. Small details aren't as important but having the ability to smooth it out pretty much completely in an acetone wash is essential.

you shorted live to neutral

you weren't grounded as well as that common/neutral wire.

>>1031591
You shorted the outlet with your fork, but the current had an easier path than your body to follow. Electricity takes the path of the least resistance, always.

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pic releated - back of the PCB

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this may be helpful

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Found this online: a guy who rehoused a Behringer vibrato, maybe it can help you.

soooo, anyone? anything?

>>1031410
Chill.

>>1031410

I need ASAP, It's very important

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>>1031303

>>1031306
recycling center asshole

>>1031313
>he bought into the recycling glass meme

Aluminum is the only thing worth recycling. Everything else is Prius-grade feel good delusion.

>>1031274
Actuall, the vertical ones are less efficient than the horizontal. The only advantage to the vertical ones are that if efficiency is not important, then maintenance is easy to conduct on them (I'm paraphrasing from wikipedia).

>>1031276
so, if i would like to build one, vertical will be easier to build?

>>1031279
Yes, and easier to repair too, when something goes wrong.

One other "gotcha" is you should investigate a little bit further in building one that doesn't "whup-whup-whup". If you build the blades straight up, and say you have three blades like in your piuc, then everytime the bladeset makes one revolution, there will be three times whree each blade will "stall" and make a vibration. You can get around this if you curve the bladeset into a helix like shape.

>>1031228
You're sure it's E12?

>>1031237

90% sure. They have the smaller receptacle, and I've replaced the bulbs with other e12 bulbs before.

>>1031228
Space permitting for larger bases and bulbs, you can get E12 to E26 adapters on eBay for less than a few bucks a piece shipped, which would open you up to using good halogen incans or higher power LEDs.