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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 453. page

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File: iswatchingyou.jpg (7KB, 432x247px) Image search: [Google]
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I have a problem of constant cracking, rattling and rolling noises coming out of my ceiling. It sounds like small pebbles are shifting inside a cavity of my ceiling.

As far as i know it's a concrete panel with parallel hollow tubes running length wise with both ends cemented and armature welded to next panel.

I suspect that the noise might come from birds that live somewhere in the panel and have found a hole to enter it somewhere from outside.

How do i confirm this, get rid of them and make sure it isn't the panel slowly shifting and cracking to kill me in my sleep one day?

How do i get rid of the
11 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1027418
Try bird seed to bait birds, nuts for squirrels, or almost anything for rats. Set up a trap. Be merciful when you kill the pest. After quiet for a couple of days seal up the hole where they entered.
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>>1027432
I assume i have to find the entrance first and then mount the trap against it?

What's a good sealant for such purpose? I assume pests would carve another entrance in Makroflex and alike. Plaster, cement? I'd like something i can fill down the hole, in case it has connections of other points of entry i cant see (e.g. to some utility space between blocks).
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>>1027418
assuming there are a million parallel tubes running across the whole thing, you can't really just block one, you need to block all of them, in which case you might as well hire someone to kill the pests

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How effective is this? I'm tempted to try it. I have no money for a window air conditioner, and I don't want it to destroy my electric bill.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxSLbpAwibg
44 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>1027206
Its alright if you want to just blow on you, but if you are thinking this will cool a room it wont.
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>>1027206
Ice has to come from somewhere. Is it coming from your freezer? You still got to pay money to freeze it and its not going to be any cheaper than an AC. Buy a nice fan and have it blow on your back. If you get really hot an ice pack on your neck will cool you off.
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>>1027211
Yes but the freezer would be on anyways. And I would think it'd cool the room to some extent. Better than my room fan at the moment, which just heats up the room after a certain amount of time.

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Sup /diy/. Not sure if this justifies a thread but if you're building one, get the fuck in here.

Looking to build pic related, some workbenches for medium duty metalworking, electronics and general fabrication. Whole thing is designed to be freestanding (can't bolt to the walls here, I am rentfag) and easily collapsible; Idea is that they can be disassembled and stacked into themselves as depicted at the very left of the upper part of the pic for easy transport. Was hoping to get some advice on my joinery before finalising and buying some wood.

I made what I consider a beta version of this some years ago and basically relied on cross bracing to make shit as solid as possible. Naturally, the whole thing was flimsy as fuck, shit would fall off shelves when I was sawing things in a bench vice, all in all, it was a complete waste of timber.

I want to attach legs per the lower part of the pic. The cut out sections at the top measure 55 x 55 mm, I'm not sure if that will be solid enough. I considered tucking the whole leg as one complete part in behind each corner, but want flush fronts so I can mount some leg vices later if I choose. Will this be strong enough? Anyone got any suggestions on how to make sure this thing is solid as a rock? If I did want to cross brace legs, what would be the best way to mount them?
31 posts and 20 images submitted.
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Beta version. Yes, the front legs are made from two separate pieces, because I fucked up my length requirements badly, and had to kludge this together. Not bad for a then 17 year old IMO, but woeful by any decent standard.
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Consider peg board instead of attached shelves? You might be in an apartment, but you should still be able to attach shelving to the walls. Consider metal legs, 2" angle iron, with wide feet for more stability. It would add a bit of weight as well, again, for stability.
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I would suggest that rather than housing the leg joints, just butt them together and use carriage bolts and nuts to secure them. That'll survive disassembly better than screw holes in crapiata pine.

For stability and not shaking when you saw, there is no substitute for mass. A panel at the back (like the privacy panel on desks) is a good way of adding weight and rigidity, and if possible, add a front rail - maybe make the end bays shelf bays to give both more storage space and add mass to the structure.

I'd also make the top out of formply or something. Formply is nice for its slipperyness and water resistance, but yellow tongue is a cheaper alternative while still being good with accidental wetting.

The rack-it benches from Bunnings could be another possibility, if that's an Ozito power tool I see in your beta version.

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So do anyone know how to make a simple mask like the one in the pic and what would I need to make it.
14 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1026568
It would cost you more to make one than to buy one.

-What is it for, and how long do you need it to last?
-What tools do you have at your disposal?
-Ever sculpt or mold something before?
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>>1026568
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Celluloid#Production
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_moulding
Party on.
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>>1026568
$3.99 at Party City, all day, everyday.

http://m.partycity.com/products/white%2Bbasic%2Bmask?kwid=basic%2520white%2520face%2520mask&qcid=&ref=ci&extcmp=pla%257CGoogle

Hello all,

A possibly retarded and basic electronics problem;

My picture is the hand-crafted ice cream cart that you guys helped me to build a while back.

That's my bro and I in the pic; our plan is to run it at festivals and food fairs, etc.

We will be using an Elcold, mobilux 21 mobile freezer for our product, for long periods of time (sometimes 48 hours straight while we're staying overnight at a distant weekend event). This mobile freezer has a built-in, rechargeable, 12v battery, which when fully-charged, provides approximately 8 hours of freezer-use.

You can re-charge this internal 12v battery by attaching the accompanying "battery charger" to the freezer, and It to a power supply. The freezer can simultaneously operate while its battery is recharging, which means it could run indefinitely if the "battery charger" was connected to a power supply. My problem, though, is that I wont always have access to power supply when I'm travelling to and from an event, or sleeping overnight during a festival, etc.

The battery charger's input is 100-240VAC 50/60Hz, which I think means it only requires around 300 Watts of running-power to be able to keep the freezer's internal battery charging while it's being used.

I've looked at Gas-generators, but they seem very excessive as I only need about 300 watts of power. Is there a smaller, less noisy/smelly way of sending power to my freezer's 12v battery?

Any suggestions, advice, or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
78 posts and 14 images submitted.
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This is the 12v battery charger socket, on the side of the freezer.

It has the "+" and "-" symbols on it. Maybe I could connect a car battery to it or something? Or other 12v batteries, and just swap them out as they run out?
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This is the freezer "battery charger", which I'd normally just plug into the above freezer.

Whatever power source I connect to the freezer's battery would presumably have to have the same output as this.
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And finally, the freezer's "battery charger" would normally connect to a power source.

So, I need either: a portable power source for this freezer charger to plug into-- OR -- something I could connect directly to the freezer's 12v Battery Charger socket, to send power to its 12v battery.

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What soldering knowledge would /diy pass on to a new generation?
90 posts and 11 images submitted.
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lrn 2 smd
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don't breath in the fumes too much
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Magnifying lamp.

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Hope this is alright for this board.
Recently moved into a new home that came with a small bar in the basement (about 6x1 feet, with a large storage cabinet right beside it), I'm looking to install a beer tap.
So far I know very little, exceptthe tools and most items needed such as Co2 canister, fridge, granite drill ect.
What is the best way to go about installing it, and considering the size would I be able to mske it fit?
31 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Ehh, dunno if I'd want to keep a CO2 canister in a basement.
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>>1024464

As long as the OP isn't leaving the valve open he should be fine. He'd also be spending a lot of money on co2 if he were continually flooding his basement with it.
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>>1024430
heres an honest opinion - you really dont want to do this. Beer taps (and kegs, and lines, and Co2, and cleaning the fuckers, etc.) are pain enough in an actual bar - in your basement there is no way in fuck you will EVER use a volume that will make any sense/justify installing this crap.

If you really insist <sigh> google up 'diy keg fridge' or 'kegerator' or something, its your funeral.. honestly, Im not 'I knows better' or 'this is shit idea, GTFO' - but I have all that crap sitting there doing nothing from the last bar I was involved in, and, I'd genuinely drill a hole in my head before I'd install any of that domestic.

Get a good quality pro beer fridge, fill it with good bottled beer - enjoy, stress-free, be happy.

Tools you have the most fun working with: Simpson PT 27. It's basically a handgun that drives ties into steel or concrete with black powder charges.
117 posts and 39 images submitted.
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Pic related, my ball peen dead blow. No striking tool feels as satisfying to use.
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>>1021818
Why are all dead blow hammers orange?
I've never seen any other color.
It has to be more than just a hi-vis thing.
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>>1021664
I was thinking chainsaw, but it's really loud and there is always the possibility of really nasty injuries involved, that take away from the joy of going through whole trees in seconds.

Instead I'll go with pic related
The precise, smooth cuts you can make with them are pure satisfaction

I want bipedal locomotion on my robots, senpai. I'm pretty far along with electrical engineering and programming, but I havent spent any cycles on mechanical engineering. What do I need to know to get bots walking and shit. Am I fucked?
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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inverse dynamics
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>>1031046
are there any viable alternatives without a "simulation" component
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>>1031048
I don't see how. If you're bi pedal you don't have any other legs to stand on while trying to figure out where you can put your foot, you need to be sure of where it's going before it gets there, otherwise you fall over.

You might be able to build a neural net that creates useful heuristic models that can run on less powerful hardware, but that sort of bullshit would be a PhD in software, not a BS in EE.

You could have a 'bipedal' bot that doesn't really have a bipedal gait--just have it stand on one leg that is big enough to balance on easily, then shuffle one foot forward and slowly transfer weight to it until it's 'okay' and then move the last foot.

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I know everyone always sees em in the movies but it there really a way to do it?
11 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1030952
I know how to make them.
What are you going to use them for?
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>>1030973
Honestly I don't know it would just be kinda cool to randomly run up to friends and yell "NINJA VANISH" and then throw it on the floor and run like hell. It just seems like an amusing thing. So how do you make them exactly?
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>>1030985
If you did that by a road with traffic on it you could cause a deadly car accident. People with respiratory problems would probably fucking hate you too. Pls stop shitposting.

File: bookcase.jpg (28KB, 600x600px) Image search: [Google]
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So I have this bookcase and I want to know If it is possible to use a hand drill to drill holes in the sides so I can run wires for lighting. From what I know the bookcase is made from 22 gauge steel sheet metal so it's pretty thin but strong. Would I need a specific kind of drill bit for getting though thin steel? would there be sparks since it's metal? All I really have is a hand drill and nothing else really, Thing is heavy enough to not move at all even with pressure against it So I think I can do it without disassembly. stock pics since no camera. If anyone knows, thanks.
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1030926
Yeah regular hss drill bits will do
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>>1030929
So it should just go though easy? not going to set anything on fire?
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>>1030930

not going to set anything on fire?

No...you won't set it on fire...

>aviation fuel and steel???

File: husky.jpg (128KB, 1280x1048px) Image search: [Google]
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anyone got car's repair manuals? like mechanical,electronical,etc...
or a site that offers?
15 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1030893
https://haynes.co.uk/splash
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>>1030895
thank you, but i prefer free ones ;p
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>>1030897
http://www.youtube.com

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Hey /diy/, I've got an old tea urn (at least I think it's a tea urn) that I'd like to clean up and make safe to use. But I need some help in returning it to its former glory.
Firstly, it’s got some solidified water sediment in it which is proving difficult to remove. I've tried vinegar, some sort of descaler and finally hitting it with a pressure washer which got rid of most of it, but the last bit refuses to budge. So I’m thinking of hitting it with a wire brush to break it off, but I'm worried that may damage the metal finish, which brings me to my next question. The outside is, I think, copper plated and the inside looks like galvanized zinc but I don’t know enough about identifying metal to say for certain. What would I need to do to make sure it’s food safe? Does it need some form of lacquer/coating or is it good to go “as is” and would hitting that sediment with a wire brush damage any existing coating?
Many thanks for your help gents.
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I got these very small magnets I wanna mount to a led strip so I can easier mount the led strip inside my case.

How do I attach these little magnets to the back of the led strip? Super glue? Second glue? Hot glue?
14 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1030662
Literally any of those.
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>>1030667
do you think it would be strong that if i pull off the led strip that the magent comes with?
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>>1030668
go to Google you moron

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Having never used any CAD software before, i've got a few questions. Will something like autoCAD allow me to build a frame using tubing with specific size and wall thickness and then tell me the weight of the frame? How much weight it can support?

Starting to plan out an airboat build, and want to learn the software as it might be useful for my job (starting heavy fabrication apprenticeship).

Also, i just want to design and build something from scratch. Being an Australian, i've never even seen an airboat before so I'm pretty stoked.
19 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1030559
I have solidworks and it will do that, I assume AutoCAD would as well. If you are in qld let me know when the airboat is done, I'd love to see it
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>>1030559
Sorry mate, just north of the murray.

Thanks. I'll have to spend the next week or two learning how to do everything on autocad. Should be fun.

Will be the first time working on an engine too. Hoping to find a wrecked commodore for cheap. An ls1 is apparently easy to work on and can bring out some power fairly easily. Never had a chance to work on cars or anything, so i'm stoked.
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sounds like you're not an engineer.. be sure to wear a life vest when you take your airboat out!

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