Hi guys, do you have any advice on which breakout board / motion controller to buy for my mini diy carving cnc milling machine?
What are pros/cons with simple parallel port boards, and which one should I buy?
I was looking "smooth stepper" clone like this in the picture, but do I really need one (they are too expensive, I could get arduino set for that money...). Anyway, any advice?
Ive made a few cnc, and updated an industrial one with the same gear.
Hit ebay my friend. Dont go ardy as its not quick enough imo, gives shitty results. Get a usb breakout board off ebay with usbcnc for $30-80aud, controllers for $7aud each. Easy cheap build if you already have steppers, or buy them too
Forgot to mention, dont forget your board will need seperate stepper controllers for any stepper larger than a cockroach, and a spindle controller.
Anyway your board was on ebay recently for $30.
Usb isnt always supported by software, so find what you want to use first.
Thx for a response!
>>1026779
"your board will need seperate stepper controllers for any stepper"
controllers=drivers?
I'm confused about this: if I buy usb board, I don't need anything else electronicwise except stepper drivers, power supply and pc?
I am going to be helping a friend convert a bus (like "the short bus", but slightly shorter) into a semi-camper/rv.
Included in this would be a water system, which I wanted to run by /diy/ to see if I missed anything. I also have a couple of questions for anyone that has used a similar system in the past, as I am only used to residential plumbing and not anything with lower pressure than that (in this case, ~8psi.)
To avoid having a wall of text on the main page, the water system will be detailed in the next couple of posts. This thread may also end up being the thread for the whole project, if it sticks around that long.
I apologize in advance for the TL;DR nature of this.
I have purchased three of the following
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=35999&catid=459
(which are also the op pic) for use as the reservoirs in the system.
All three will be linked together, with the openings arranged so that they are at the top and bottom. The top will function as the points from which they will be pressurized and vented in the cases that the vehicle does not have electric or the reservoirs are being filled. The bottom will function as both the outflow and the points they will be filled from. The reservoirs will have a valve that can shut off the reservoir from the rest of the system so that if the vehicle has a water hookup it can run off that without the reservoirs being pressurized to the psi of the hookup.
The reservoirs will be placed inside the actual bus space, as close to the roof as possible, with adequate support (support going to the floor, and space taken up by the supports used either for other systems or turned into cabinets/storage so that space isn't wasted.) The main reason for this is that, while the bus will be guaranteed to have heating (through electric if there is a hookup, otherwise wood or propane), it cannot be guaranteed to have electric at all times and so if the drums were placed either on the roof or under the bus they would be susceptible to freezing.
The system would be arranged so that the reservoirs are the highest point that will be filled with water, and all the rest of the piping and the faucet and the hose hookup could be drained completely without power, with or without the reservoirs being including in the draining.
The actual pipe I am not sure of yet; I am vacillating between either pex (which would require insulation or another method of shielding them from UV) or schedule 40 PVC, with some brass fittings and portions (for the parts that go outside, or valves that will be repeatedly opened or closed--for pex all would be brass.) If pex, I will probably go with pipe insulation because I have a bunch from some recent demo work, but it is a bit large diameter for the purpose. It's not the split type pipe insulation.
The pros of pex in this situation are that it will be less of a pain to install, and is rated to a higher psi than schedule 40 PVC (which will be somewhat relevant later in the post) and if it does freeze will not crack (the drums are made of HDPE too, so should be the same, but not 100% sure) PVC does not require the pipe insulation, and would be easier to use larger pipe diameters as they are carried in big box stores and wouldn't need the insulation, so a 2" pipe would not take up as much space as 2" pex + insulation. PVC will also be significantly cheaper to use for larger diameter valves.
The reason for the larger diameter pipe is that it will provide better flow for the faucet and hose hookup this will be servicing in the event that there is no electric to run the system. I am, however, not sure how much of a difference the larger diameter pipe will make in this scenario.
Can anyone here with experience with unpressurized systems weigh in on the difference it will make?
As for the method of pressurizing the system: I am planning on using compressed air to pressurize the system rather than a water pump. The reason for this is that it seems like it will be cheaper, easier to install, and the compressor will not be prone to breakage the same way a pump would (because of debris, pumping air, etc.)
The system would be as follows: the small pancake compressor (which can pump to max 110 psi) is hooked to a regulator
https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-11211-norgren-r91w2ak040-non-relieving-waterair-pressure-regulator-14-fpt.aspx
which regulates the psi down to 12, a short section of pipe connects that to another regulator which regulates it down to between 5-10psi (haven't decided yet) and in between the two regulators is a 15psi pressure relief valve. The second regulator is probably unnecessary but is there in case the first regulator fails, and the pressure relief valve is there as an indicator of the regulator failing. This then connects to the drums through the linked top opening. There will also be a second 10-15psi (not sure yet) pressure relief valve directly hooked to the reservoirs, past any regulators.
Is it better for the life of the compressor to compress to a higher shutoff when it kicks on, and kick on less often, or to compress to a lower shutoff when it kicks on, but kick on more often?
The drums themselves are rated to 100 kPa, which converts to just slightly over 14.5 psi. According to several posts online, similar HDPE drums can apparently handle more than that, some even reported up to 30psi, but I figured it would be best to have them operate under their limits, and from what people have posted online 5-10psi should be sufficient for use.
Can anyone that has used low pressure systems in the past weigh in? Is that enough for a decent usable flow, or is it going to be a pain to use?
Powertools you never feel 100% comfortable using.
I'm always sure I'm going to slip or misjudge my distance somehow and lose part of a finger
dont get comfortable using any machine. thats how you get careless
>>1025707
I always felt like the band saw was the safest of all of them. With the cutting motion going vertically, it always made me think that the piece was highly unlikely to run out of my hand or pull a finger into the saw. Huh. Matter of perspective I guess.
>>1025707
fucking reciprocating saws even worse is I need one all day for conduit
My garage door extension spring broke. Is this something I could realistically do myself? How difficult is it? It doesn't look that sophisticated looking at the other side, just a spring clipped onto one end of the ceiling to a frame bracket and on the other end to a pulley and cable.
I called True Value, Ace, Lowes, Grainger, and Home Depot asking for a spring like pic related (210lb 25x42") and no one has it. Is there a "garage door supply" or do I have to order it online?
Pic Related
That's the other side. It really doesn't look too bad to do.
>>1025116
Man, it's possible to do yourself. Its not too difficult... However... If you fuck up, you can get really fucked up. I've seen pipe wrenches thrown across a garage, through a wall, and right into a water heater.
That being said. If you pay attention. Watch some videos. You should be able to do it.
If you have the money to pay someone, it's worth the money.
>>1025122
Also, im not sure how different styles and models are. One style might be simple while another can be a pain. I night even go to a garage door company and ask for a few tips. Bring them some drinks or lunch and they'll probably point you in the right direction.
nearby town is selling 6 of these brit phone booths...
http://form.glenview.il.us/PhoneAuction/Pages/Home.aspx
I'd love to buy one but how the heck could I move it [cheaply]; they are 2000+ lbs.
I assume the metal body is cast iron?) the door is wood.
hiring a crane and truck would be expensive!
any brit out there know more info about how these are made - could it be disassembled?
>>1024167
Just out of curiosity, why the fuck do they use british booths in the united fucking states?
>>1024171
There's one in an Englishman's vineyard here in Nova Scotia. They sponsor any national call from it as a marketing gimmick
>>1024171
they got them from london when london was getting rid of them... they put them in the down town area (used as telephone booths with pay phones) just because it was'different and unexpected to see that here in the states. but now of course no one needs or uses a pay phone anymore - I would assume they might also attract vandalism though the town where these were located is fairly "up-scale"...
kind of like how some tour bus companies in the city (new york, chicago) bought some of the old classic london double decker buses when they were being decommissioned. it was "different" to see them on this side of the pond. made that company stand out a bit from the others using "normal" common buses.
Hi I bought this screwdriver set from Lowe's, the kind where you detach and attach the screwheads to the tool. They have a little ball thing that keeps them locked into place when you insert em into the thing, but theres one that is a little deformed and the ball doesn't rise up as high, as you can see in the picture(top is good, bottom one is bad and it falls out, can't use it).
Any way to get the ball to rise out of its hole, or attach something to it?
>>1022929
Try hitting the side of the hex with a hammer. If it doesn't pop out exchange it. Never had that happen.
Maybe try a magnet?
Or try beating the fuck out of it
>>1022934
I have with non-new tools crap gets in there and it binds the ball from sitting properly
You have two options, depress the ball and spring upside down and spray penetrating lube in the opening to clear it out and hope that gets it, or just replacing/exchanging it
Why do these bleep and flash when i put them close to an unplugged socket/the wires of an unplugged socket? Or even when i get close to a turned off light switch.
It seems like that even open circuits can trigger them or am i wrong?
What is going on?
i think they measure the electric field thats created by the AC supply
>even open circuits can trigger them
thatsthepoint.mpg
>>1022560
Op is tarded
It's been a while since I've posted one of these.
Are any glassblowers still frequenting /diy/?Post some of your work.
If not, some of you definitely need to get into it. Once you are trained the gap between imagination and execution is pretty tiny. Definitely a superior medium in my opinion.
Anyways, I got these perfume bottles done yesterday, and I think they turned out pretty decent.
These are my first attempts, so the next ones should be sleeker.
My mother made beautiful glass jewelry and pipes on the reservation, but never taught me how to work with glass.
Where's the easiest place to start? Any good resources or books?
>>1013968
thoes are pretty awesome dude
sup /diy/
im thinking about getting solar panels for my house. i really only want them to supplement the house during the day and not have to pay for/worry about batteries. theres a bunch of stats i don't know how to judge, like watts. i have a decent spot on my roof that gets a good 10 hours of sun year round but it freezes (sometimes snows) here.
does /diy/ know anything about solar? how do i choose the right panels and what stats should they have?
>>1011465
No batteries means you will want a grid tie system. That means you will need some fairly expensive equipment to convert the DC output of the panels to 110v AC and integrate it with the power coming in from your utility. So look into that and make sure its within your budget before you even start looking into panels.
>>1011465
>does /diy/ know anything about solar? how do i choose the right panels and what stats should they have?
If you are in the USA,,,,,
1. First you need to see what kinds of subsidies you can get, and what they require. Many places that offer subsidies have various requirements you have to meet--like minimum system requirements for all the hardware and having a certified solar installer design and install the whole system.
2. Who cares about subsidies? If you think you don't, you should... Some places will cover $8~$10K on a $30K system.
Solar power is very attractive from a geek standpoint (quiet, clean, low-maintenance) but it is still very expensive compared to utility power.
op here,
>convert the DC output of the panels to 110v AC
so i need to know what the output is on the panels to know what converter i need.
>having a certified solar installer design and install the whole system.
i dont want to do all that. my neighbor had some solar panels left over from a project (he's an electrician, i think) and he just put them up himself and started getting free power in the day time. getting some grant or something would be cool, but im hoping this whole thing can cost < $500
general brewing thread
continued from <<980560
What are you brewing?
What is your setup?
How have your other batches done?
Tips, suggestions, or resources for others to start?
Mead, cyzer, cider.
Small batches, 10 gallons in all.
Pitch yeast at SG1.135 for meads and 1.08 or just really sweet tasting for cyzers and ciders. FG 1.02-1.03.
I use goferm and qa23 yeast and everything turns out great.
What are you guys opinions on big mouth bubblers compared to glass carboys? I'm getting a starter kit from Northern Brewer and I noticed they have two different kits one with glass carboys and one with big mouth bubblers and I'm wondering which one I should get or if it even matters that much.
>>1003412
I like the glass better. Less nooks and crannies and a little more durable to heat and won't melt.
How would /diy/ get rid of bed bugs?
Burn house down?
Set thermostat to 120
Hold at 120 for eight hours
profit
My son works for a company that treats for bed bugs.
They have a $60,000 trailer which is towed to the site.
This trailer has equipment to heat the house\apartment to 120 degrees.
It's held at that temperature long enough to get everything in the house/apartment to that temp.
>two bedroom apartment = $1,100
Anon from northen country laughes at you
What is the strongest non-toxic glue for something that can go in your mouth? I am trying to glue a teflon/PTFE sheet onto an oral appliance
pic unrelated
>glue a teflon/PTFE sheet
Toxic or non-toxic, gluing PTFE to anything is a massive pain in the ass.
>>1028574
is there any way to get ptfe to join with something like polymer clay?
I have a PTFE sheet, it has a high melting point right? So could I poke holes into it, mold the clay into the holes (like screws) and bake it in the over?
>>1028572
staple your rolling tongue tray
1 - Take your paperclip
2 - Unbend it
3 - Take a small screwdriver, any size you want just as how wide you want your rings to be.
4 - With the help of pliers, roll the straighten paperclip around the shank of your screwdriver, so it'll look like a little spring.
5 - Cut the spring with cutting pliers in order to make your rings.
6 - Now open and close your rings in order to make your wristband/necklace however you want it to look like.
*You can also use this technique of making metal springs to make chainmail
>>1028440
That's quite nice, thanks for sharing
Also i have a question regarding wire jewelry in general.
When I dabbled in it, my pliers would always leave marks and dents on the wire. I was using aluminium wire.
Am i applying too much force? Was the wire too soft?
I am going to build a spray painting station (for furniture painting, doors, tables etc.). For the gun I am going to pick a SATA Jet 4000 B HVLP, which needs a constant 16cfm.
I was thinking about a Schneider UNM 660-10-90 for the compressor unit, but I am not quite sure, if 90l is enough volume to keep a constant air supply of 16cfm.
So should i get a one with a 90l tank or should I go for one with a bigger tank, like 180l or 200l?
https://www.schneider-airsystems.com/Products/Pages/Product-Detail.aspx?pid=A715000&name=UniMaster-UNM-660-10-90-D
>>1028409
>constant air supply of 16cfm
If you're taling 100% duty cycle, the size of the tank doesn't matter. The only thing that matters is whether the compressor output is enough at its 100% duty cycle. A larger tank can help if the demand is intermittent but exceeds the compressor's max output, and the size to get depends on the usage specifics.
>>1028422
Obviously it only has to provide a constant 16 cfm for a the time it takes to paint lets say 2 doors on both sides in one go.
The compressor, which i linked has a filling capacity of 520l/min. Even though Schneider Airsystems is one of the leading manufacturers in the compressor industry, I couldn't find any data on its standardised air output.
>>1028424
>the time it takes to paint lets say 2 doors on both sides in one go
So how much time is that, and how long a break will it have before the next use?
>520l/min
Which is 18 CFM, so it should be fine with any tank.
Does anybody have tips on how to work with bones for jewelry? I plan to make a necklace, and I'm thinking of using some discarded chicken bones because they're readily available.
Pic...unrelated?
Related
>>1028239
I was gonna post in this thread, but now I'm scared
Wow, this thread got pretty spooky pretty fast!