Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 455. page

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what you want are "mushroom head" rivets - not just for aesthetic purposes, but also for structural strength - as pop rivets are hollow al tubes,they have fuck all shear strength.

in the UK, I can strongly recommend this bunch:
http://www.sapphireproducts.co.uk/bs641.htm

their "round head" rivets are also useful, but mushroom are more accurate to the real things historically, which tend to be less of a ==D shape, and more of a flat ==) shape. If that makes any sense.

in a pinch, this company should also deliver outside the UK:
https://maccmodels.co.uk/other-fastners-rivets/rivets.html

you'll mostly want the "iron rivets" in this case, but brass rivets are useful for decorative work sometimes. you will generally want the 1/8th inch, which is about 3.175mm, as a default standard - a 3.2mm drill is good for that, but even better is a Roper-Whitney no.5 punch (see pic) - that will save you a huge amount of time making holes, as you can just punch through the metal very easily. Unfortunately, very few companies do traditional rivets in metric sizing, so you'll have to learn a little bit of imperial fractions just for knowing what sizes. 1/8th inch is the most common, 3/16ths (4.76mm) are useful for three areas of use: 1: for extra strength in large parts, though the difference is minimal to 1/8th, 2: for the linings of helms with a band of leather to attach the suspension to, and 3: for emergency repairs of joints. If a knee or elbow gets worn, and the articulation's sloppy its sometimes useful to replace with a bigger rivet.

Also, I'd note for anything more than costume, 0.8al sheet is about as much use as wet paper - especially for a helm - you might *just* about get away with 0.8mm al for lames on spaulders or the likes, but even there if it were for any sort of use, I'd expect to see 0.7mm steel. For a helm, I'd expect at least 2.6mm steel, simply for safety. And your oculars (the eye slot) is WAY too wide in comparison to how real ones are.

>>1028851
thanks, you very helpful

>>1028851
As for the thickness thing, I am making just a costume, I'm not really interested in protection as much as fashion.

I am switching to steel though, because the aluminum is too elastic and I can't make certain bends and dome shapes with it

Self levelling compound from any hardware store. Make a former round the slab a few mm higher than the slab. Mix the compound as per directions and pour.

When pouring concrete, you need to go over the surface with a flat metal trowel to bring the 'fat' to the surface and get a smooth finish.

>>1028683
Looks like it was really dry when you started to brush it around. You can rent a concrete grinder that will make it smooth now. You can use a large broom. Or if its small enough a 2x4.

>>1028685
I'm liking this idea. I did go over my slab with a trowel, but the big chunks in the Quickrete 5000 made a smooth finish problematic no matter how many times I went over it.

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>>1028309
>Makes more money/better quality shit than OP

>>1028309
Never heard of him OP.
look away and he won't be in your face anymore.

He's popular because he's a fucking hack who makes Pinterest bait.

The reason his craftsmanship is shit is because he's an "Artist", not a woodworker.

>>1028294
you should do.... All of them

Sand
Wipe down with mineral spirits
Pre stain conditioner
Danish oil or stain
Wipe on poly or some wipe on blend
Light high grit sanding between coats

Read all products and follow all directions

Danish oil or stain will basically do the same thing, color the wood. I like the way Danish oil looks more, but either will look good if done right. Polyurethane will protect the wood and stain. Use a wipe on poly unless you're good with a paint brush. Wipe on will give you an even coat, but will take more coats to build up. I prefer wipe on because it's easy. You could blend polyurethane 50/50 with mineral spirits and get a good result, or use a blend in 3rds of poly, boiled linseed oil, and mineral spirits. The latter looks really good on good woods but also can take over 2 weeks to fully cure, for yours I'd just do poly and mineral spirits.

Any varnish will work, but poly will take more abuse, although lacquer would probably be a better looking varnish it takes several weeks to cure, can be brittle, and won't necessarily look that much better for the trade off.

If you want a semi gloss finish start with clear gloss and only use semi gloss on the last coat, makes the finish less cloudy.

Practice patience, follow directions, and test a discrete area to make sure you're happy with the way it looks before doing the whole thing.

>>1028514
Also, when I say wipe down with mineral spirits, make sure it's completely clean. Dust, dirt, grime and even the oil from your skin will make parts of the finish look horrible, and it won't be noticeable til near the end. I ALWAYS wear nitrile gloves that I clean off with whatever solvent I'm using before I touch whatever I'm finishing.

You can find more info, good, bad and otherwise online by looking up "finishing wood"

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>>1028291
2/2

2nd question, the nose of the board has checked it's fair share of curbs while I was still learning, and as a result a large chip formed there (pic related).

Is there a way to repair this?

Thanks in advance

>>1028293
Glue and clamps or cut it off

>>1028291
The top and bottom plys are often made of stronger, higher quality wood because those layers take more abuse in terms of loading and weather. Best to leave them in place.

>>1028183
I have no clue

But from a quick look, it looks like there is a threaded collar right there at the end of the fitting.
You would unscrew the ring using the notches on it

I dont know the proper name for it

>>1028184
Also obviously you dont remove the crimped hose or the knob.
You have to do something on the fitting nearest to the wall to remove it.

>>1028183
I've not seen this before but it looks like it may be similar to a 'sharkbite' type fitting.
The hose is not removable so you have to remove the entire valve/hose assembly.
The water supply to the line in the wall must be off before doing this.

Can't you remove the other end of the flex line and re-use this line on your new dishwasher?

What country are you in?
How many stories to your house?
Which floor is this on?

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Something like this?

Replace that plastic flex duct pronto. Real fire hazard.

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>>1028116
>Is there anything I could use other than mortar to quickly fix this for him?

Google 3M foil tape
available at hardware stores and Wal-Mart

>>1027986
Bumping for interest. Anyone got a schematic for a delay effect?

>>1027986
bump, c'mon someone pls feed my addiction

>>1027997
pt2399 chip is your friend, google away and find something that suits your needs.

Could be the door seal perhaps

>>1027373
>fan keeps freezing over

My fridge had some trash in the drain hole where water runs out during the defrost cycle, so it eventually collected to form a huge block of ice that never melted.

The solution was to remove the trash, obviously, but I went ahead and made it larger, which may or may not affect the operation of yours. I did this about 10 years ago and mine is still operating fine.

>>1027388
>made it larger,

derp. I made the drain hole larger.

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Also, does one of you know what this display technology is called, so I can do some research?

its a vfd display, and i think the burned spot is ok on thoose, its the heating filament mark or something

>>1027377
Thanks anon, you were one helpful fellow. Since the display works, if I put some pressure on it, I think, the vacuum is somehow fucked.

>>1026130
Buy a different one.

Sell it for big nostalgia and Pokemon crazy profit and buy another.

>>1026130
Are you retarded?

>>1025018
Can someone link this gentleman the /diy/ brand air filter picture please

>>1025018
Live in a plastic bubble

>>1025039
Thanks /b/

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One more thing. I'd rather not buy the metal die and tint them because I want to engrave a custom logo on the number 6 side like in the pic.

ty

I suspect that the traditional way of making a rounded dice is to simply shove it into a lathe and cut out a spheroid.

But that's just me guessing.

>>1024788
Hmmm...I could put the square in a lathe and sand of the edges... I would have to be careful to make the top be exactly like the bottom, but maybe I can do something with that idea!

ask /g/

>>1024340
/r/buildapc

>>1024340
Just decide what cpu, gpu, memory, etx, then decide what mainboard you want. Use pcpartpicker, it will help you match and decide.

Contact your local planning department.

>>1024210
Sp city hall or what? Should I expect to by paying for permits and inspectors?

>>1024209
Don't bother doing anything in California. As far as city hall goes unless you want to wait 6 months or more and ask for variances this is one of those beg for forgiveness scenarios and not ask permission. Unless your neighbors are assholes and or you live in an hoa, just build it.