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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 441. page

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Can someone tell me what type of lightbulb fits this please? UK.
5 posts and 2 images submitted.
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4 pin compact fluorescent.
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>>1035256
I've found one of those that had the same shaped fitting but was square shaped, not rectangular like in my pic. Do they have different codes?
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>>1035260
There are different types yes. You're best Google Compact Fluorescent Lamp and look for one that suits. Most common ones are Edison screw or bayonet. Many varieties.

If you have a screwfix near by I'd try asking there if anyone can help.

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What's a good container for my small tools? I'm currently using a harbor freight watch kit, which is comfy but poorly made.
8 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Mak it yourself using thin leather (junked leather couch) or canvas. self satisfaction and it will last longer than most things you can buy.
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I like bags from the german army. "Bundeswehr Werkzeug Rolltasche".
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Rolltasche-Werkzeugtasche-Werkzeugrolltasche-Motorrad-PKW-Werkzeug-Bundeswehr-/311393270611
I have two as pic related for my wrenches, awesome quality.

A box like this also works well, I put my field repair tools for my RC hobby in one:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Allit-Sortimentskasten-EuroPlus-Basic-37-12-rot-transparent-/122017426928
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At my work we like bank bags but they're not exactly organized...

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I have in mind making a folding desk since I have limited space. What is the best way to make it? I have seen various techniques but I do not know which one would be best.
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1035161
What is it about the plans you found that makes you think they aren't any good?
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>>1035164
So what I found is basically what you see in the picture and then another method which directly has two parts that fold but the problem is that I'm not sure I end up saving that much money.
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Forgot to say that this desk will be for my laptop + some extra space for taking notes or whatever

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Accident happened and had to store my sulfuric acid in coca-cola glass bottles.

I was thinking about using a big bleach or lye plastic bottle to store the acid.

Would that work?
23 posts and 2 images submitted.
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well you're the chemist here, does sulfuric acid react with that particular plastic?
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Yes, because SO4 is non polar you can definitely store it with polar bleach. In fact, bleach will keep it from turning clumpy and keep it useful for up to 10 years in a 1:0.5 ratio of acid to bleach. Just make sure its not scented bleach
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>>1035169
And the bottle is totally okay for it, the bottles are graded to hold battery acid

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Hey /diy/ what has been your most ambitious project?
10 posts and 1 images submitted.
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I'm building a house with all the governmental sodomization in Funland.
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Building my own bluetooth adapter to my cars OEM head unit that doesn't have a external audio input, also tapped into the CAN interface to read the steeringwheel stereo controls so I could skip tracks without needing to mess with phone. Got it working pretty well but then I found a cheap chinese adapter that did exactly the same for less than I'd allready spent on the project so got that instead because it was so much smaller. Still learnt alot and messing with CAN was fun.
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>>1035151
Right now I'm designing a RC model Airship that uses hot air as it's lifting gas.

Previously, I was creating a transistor sound card with similar capabilities to a SID chip.

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How could I make the chair fit better under this desk?

I'll post some extra pics for reference, but the bottom star shape of the chair does not usually fit under the desk, and it requires finagling every time.
4 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Posting a pic with my phone camera, we already took a drawer out to better fit the chair in height
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Lift up the desk with some wooden blocks or something. 3 inches or so should be good.
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>>1035100
That's just what I was thinking

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Hey y'all. I've been giving advice on this board for a while so I'm hoping I'm due for some good advice from someone here.

I'm putting in a gravity fed water system in my mobile office. I have a cupboard above the sink and there's room for a 5 gallon tank or water bladder up there. Just having a hard time figuring out the best style to go with.

A camp shower? Bought one and it had a leak... most of these are just crap. Thin skinned. Threads on the bladder are impossible to join with a better hose and nozzle.

Maybe a water tank? But I wish I could find one that had a hole in the top for filling that could double as a place to attach my hose and nozzle.

Looked at nylon and rubber, I guess they give the water a nasty taste. Thoughts?

General water system thread.
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>>1035095
Sorry here's a better photo. This is the sink I have in there. The sink drains into a 5 gallon bucket in the cupboard below.
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>>1035099
Use a fuel bladder. Lightweight but really strong, they use them in drones
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>>1035095
That looks so fucking comfy

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Someone can do a fast schematic diagram on paint of each one
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>>1035094
is it really that hard to follow the lines?
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>>1035094
Agreed OP - a child could do it.
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We're not doing your homework for you, fuck off Manuel

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Thinking of taking the cheaper route and getting some Pittsburgh (harbor Freight) impact sockets.

For $75(ish) i can get their 37 pc SAE and metric and 2x 12 Pc 1/2 drive deep well impact sockets (1 set in SAE and one set in metric)

Could get 12 point or 6 point on the deep set. leaning toward 6 because why not.

They come with a lifetime warranty so if they break i can get new ones for free.

Most of the other sets i was looking at were 10 pce sets for $50 or more.

I know HF has a stigma about it which is whats holding me back. Anyone here ever use these impact sockets?
11 posts and 1 images submitted.
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if your gonna use them every day for heavy duty work then perhaps consider better ones..

if your gonna use em every once in a while for fuckaround stuff then they'll likely be fine, if you find that you use one specific one enough to break it (or more likely if your 10mm socket developes legs and wanders off) then you can buy individual replacement sockets to make up for the broke/lost ones...

also make sure you use the hazard freight coupon...
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>>1035027
I buy and use lots of HF tools.
About the only thing I don't recommend is their cheapest corded electrical tools.
(drills, saws, etc)
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>>1035028

Not a mechanic or anything so im not going to put them to hard work on a daily basis. But they will not sit in their case on my garage and collect dust either.

In addition to the stuff i do on my own I do some side job here and there and not having impact rated sockets sucks balls.

I very likely will not use several of them but I know for a fact that if I do not get the full sets I will need the one I do not have.

The reviews seam very impressive for harbor freight.

Though getting the deep wall set in metric seems a little much. I might opt to get a few one off's of the larger sockets.

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I just got a new modem from Comcast strictly for Wi-Fi and the house I'm currently staying in runs on DirectTV but has virtually no internet. The only available coax cables outlet plugged into a DirectTV box. Is it possible to use a splitter and connect the box and modem to it so it can share the outlet???
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1035014

the cable box should also have a coax ouf
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>>1035017
But the box is connected to the outlet. I'm wondering if I can just reconnect it to a coax splitter and connect the modem next to it so the splitter itself can be plugged into the outlet (thus sharing the outlet)
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How the hell do you have DirectTV for TV and Comcast for internet? Presumably the cable goes up to the dish.

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Jan 25 2015 I finished my motorcycle gastank-spray paint tier paintjob.

560 days since I last posted about it. [1 year, 6 months, 13 days]

SO HERE'S MY UPDATE. An Final review because of complications.

After Perfect and extensive prep work. I used bondo in a small dent, and then laid down rustoleum automotive primer. then the green from pic-related. and finally the hellman's spar urethane gloss, for the clear coat, following all the instructions to a T. cure/recoat times at their maximum lengths.

Well Today I noticed a brown spot on my tank, and I went to scratch it off, and noticed it came from under the paint. it was dark outside already, so I flashed a flashlight on my tank, and noticed many "freckles" across the top of the tanks paint layer. its rusting from under the paint some how!

now the durability of the clear coat has been good! its chemical resistance held up like I thought, lots of gasoline spilled, and lots of fumes around the gas-cap itself, and not a single sign of bubbling or peeling, from that.

now from my conclusion and just by looking at it. The clear-coat did not stay shiny worth of dick and it wasn't even that shiny when it went on. and got WAY more matte over time.

The primer coat I think was the biggest issue here, it seemed to not of stuck to the bare steel tank sanded with 80grit, washed, and degreased. and its lack of flexibility also hurt it. It didn't take long for a belt or zipper, or button to rip the clear/color/primer from the tank. when I inspected the first scratch up close, I noticed the clear stretched, and the color stretched with it, but the base coat left a clean line. I noticed some of the primer WAS stuck onto the tank tho, but a lot of it failed.

The color, the color is/was the most impressive, it did not fade or react around the scratches in the tank. when subjected to water/rain. and generally held up pretty good.

now here comes the butt, and how I think everything failed together.
20 posts and 5 images submitted.
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For what ever reason the primer did not stick well to itself after the first 2 medium wet coats where sanded, my 3rd coat to smooth everything out just DID not stick to the coats below it. and the color coat? its not waterproof at all, it allows moisture to go in and out and through it. and apparently the powdery primer does too. Now I had already talked about how the clearcoat went really matte? well around may-june time I was reading on some boat forums about different finishes. and someone asked about hellman's spar, and people weren't happy with it saying it didn't hold up well at all, it looked really bad, flaked on them. and it went REALLY dull. over-all there was better products for the same amount of money. and when you look really close, the clear looks like a bunch of micro-orangepeeling. so what I'm thinking is that the clearcoat shrank/warped due to the direct sunlight and it being on a metal tank that gets pretty hot during the day under no cover. And the shrinking caused it to create small holes/cracks like what happens to clay when its wet, and it dries too fast. now this has let rain soak into the color and base coat in spots, and get to metal underneath, causing spot spot rust.
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And heres the rust freckles that will show up on camera.
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Looks like shit, I hope you get hit by a truck next time your splitting lanes.

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Hey look at that /diy/

I did something myself. I built an 8 amp lead acid battery charger Using parts from a 1960's battery charger (the transformer and circuit breaker). I vary the charging voltage with a variac since the full output of the old transformer with a modern bridge rectifier is over 17 volts DC. The old Selenium rectifiers only put out about 14vdc.

It took me about 4 hours.
16 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1034979
Alright, alright. Let the shit posting begin, but I for one say good work OP. May not be the most complex thing in the world, but it feels good to actually build something that works. And matching the original parameters, more or less.
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>>1034981
I did not want complex, I needed a charger that will WORK and not a "smart" charger that won't even try to charge a battery if it is too low.
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>>1034986
Agreed, especially for lead acid. Plus you used heatsinks and put shrink tubing on everything. We love seeing projects that actually worked out on /diy/, but it will probably only be a couple of minutes before we see some summer fag in here talking about how you should have used an arduino as a charge controller or a 14 volt regulator or something. Again, nice work OP.

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I have a brick patio that's been set up for for nearly a decade. It's not exactly level anymore because the soil here goes through great variations in wetness. The picture is similar to what my patio looks like (only warped +/- 1" in some areas)

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to level a 300g stock tank on this patio? I want to set up a small water garden for myself but from my experience before, if the tank is not level it will crack and leak. Here are some ideas I've had before:

1. Make a box with many drainage pipes and fill it with paver sand and level the stock tank on that.
2. Rip up the bricks where I want to put the tank. (I'm worried this will cause even more shifting of the other bricks)
3. Build some time of wooden structure to level the tank.

What do you guys think?
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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just put it in a container
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>>1034973
>1. Make a box with many drainage pipes and fill it with paver sand and level the stock tank on that.
I like this idea. I'd probably modify it a bit: make a box with 2x8 boards, with an interior diameter two inches larger than your tank. Maybe reinforce with 2x4s to help prevent spread from pressure. Fill with sand, level, place tank. Seems the easiest to do labor-wise, hardest to kill tank because the sand will compress to relieve stresses. Just my 2ยข.
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>>1035000
I'll probably draw up plans for it some time soon. I will need to figure out a way to control the bottom of the box from sagging into an uneven location of sand. Or I can use some left over pond liner I have lying around to make a flexible bottom for the box so that the sand will be contained but still will be in contact with the ground.

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Hey /diy/
My grandma tried to fire up a necchi supernova sewing machine from the late 50's to see if at least worked.
Thing is, it did lit up some auxiliary light, but when the switch was pressed, all it did was noise, just like the electric motor was jammed or didn't had enough power to start up


My suspicion is that the engine (which is as old as the sewing machine itself) is too fucked up, and you also have to consider that it has been used very few times on 220 VCA, and the engine was made for 115 VCA.

So are my suspicions right? Should i just straight ditch that engine out the way? or maybe is it something else i might be overlooking
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1034955
Its not the motor. Its the foot pedal...
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>>1034955
>using double the designed voltage
why do people do this kind of shit?
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>>1034955
Don't use 110 volt stuff on 220 systems dumbshit. Jesus.

>engine
>engine
>engine
Its a motor.

So I got this string trimmer that's working a bit wonky. It's an Echo GT-225. The first problem is that it a pain in the ass to start. If I play with the choke and throttle screw I can get it to start up and idle after a few hundred pulls but once I let up on the choke and let air in it dies on me. The air filter is fine, so I'm left to believe it's the carburetor, but I honestly have no fucking clue about 2-stroke engines (I do board soldering and shit for a living). The other problem is that when it actually starts, the drive shaft turns the head slowly. I'm pretty sure that it's supposed to be idle until I throttle right? I'm ordering a new carburetor because it's only $15. But I don't think that's going to fix the spinning head while it idles. I thought it might be the drive shaft, but all that does is connect the engine assembly to the head, so I don't think that's the issue. Thoughts?

Also, I understand this isn't a great trimmer, but buying a new one out of my price range at the moment. After seeing that the carburetor was so cheap, I'm hoping other parts will be too.
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1034946
There is a centrifugal clutch that spins the head once the it reaches a certain rpm. Your clutch springs are getting loose or more likely you're idling too fast.

Carburetors have two adjustable fuel jets usually via two screws. High speed and low speed jet, they control fuel mixture at high rpm and idle. Sounds like your high speed jet needs to be adjusted. Also there will be a screw to set the minimum throttle position that controls the idle speed.

These shitty little engines cause so many problems because they have tiny garbage carburetors that are supposed to work in all positions so they don't have what you could call an actual fuel bowl. Very sensitive to the fuel mixture and are usually fucked after a year or two. You can get them working with effort, but it won't be reliable, you'll have to adjust the carb every single time you use etc. Throw it out and get an electric one. I was using some hobby lipo packs to power a shitty nicad based jobmate trimmer until my dad threw it out because he thought it was broken.
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>>1034946
Just turn the left fuel jet adjustor a quarter turn to the left.
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>>1034953

Yeah, this.

I have a couple 4 cycles and it's all the same story. Fine for 6 months to a year then goddamn dead backbreaking pigshit to crank and it's constant repairs, maintenance etc.

Get an electric with four times the torque and a 3hr battery life.

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