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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 686. page

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hey /diy/
when i i'm asleep i grind my teeth because i'm under a lot of stress, i've already taken some acetaminophen (for medical reasons of course) but that doesn't work for that long. so basically my up-right teeth row hurts like hell. is there anything i can do/make to ease the pain (THAT ISN'T A DRUG) so i can sleep again?

danks
(pic related because this is how i feel when the acetaminophen worked out)
10 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>926503
Mouthguard
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>>926504
that isn't a solution, thats prevention
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>>926503
I hope this satisfactorily answers your question.
https://youtu.be/Qt9MP70ODNw

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I want to connect some fluorescent bulbs and I need a help from an electrician.

I want to make an indoor greenhouse for growing seedlings. I have a building with big windows but they are blurred and not enough sunlight can enter inside. I want to build a fluorescent bulb based grow lights.
I need those bulbs need ballasts and starters but I can't find any info on connecting a lot of bulbs.

Picture related is what I want to do, but on much larger scale, I want to have 50-60 of 1.5m (4,9feet) bulbs working at once. I don't want to buy assemblies because it will come up expensive. Bulbs are 2.30$/piece each, I need to buy rest of the connectors and wires, and will build my own reflectors. Each bulb is rated 58W
FYI It's not for growing weed.

Tl;dr: What's the easiest way to connect 50-60 fluorescent bulbs like this: | | | | | | | | | | | |
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picture of another similar setup
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>>925362
Easiest way? Get blue and red 12v led strips.
I'm not aware of a system that allows multiple bulbs to be run on the same ballast. Basically the bonus circuitry in the ballast and starter just start and keep the arc going. So you kinda need one thing per arc you want to maintain. So I guess you'll just be buying 50x 50$ assemblies if you're set on fluorescents. How much of this have you done before? Start small first. Don't want to blow a few thousand dollars on a setup you'll get bored of in a few weeks.
>this is my life
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>>925362
Perhaps you have not properly considered your lighting options.

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Hey /diy/. I'm in a bit of a pinch.

I'm at work right now. I spilled a cup of coffee across a three level glass cabinet/desk. I've managed to clean the most of it up, but there are little nooks and crannies I cannot possibly get to (without completely dismantling the case, which I cannot do, as it is not my property and in a public place).

My problem lies in that although I can't see anymore spilt coffee, I can certainly smell it. Which isn't awful right now, but I imagine will be once it goes rancid.

What exactly can I do about the smell? Anything? Some of the nooks and crannies are so closely sealed only the coffee liquid could seep through them, so I have a feeling even if I could dismantle things, it wouldn't be a full fix.
13 posts and 1 images submitted.
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coffee does not go rancid. unless by coffee you mean milk in which case I don't know, discreetly start a fire?
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>>924844
Oh. I was under the impression it would go bad/rot. It was a Starbucks 'americano' to be more exact - which if I understand right is a couple shots of expresso and some hot water.

If it won't then that's kind of a weight off my shoulders.
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>>924847
yeah if it's just coffee and water and not something with a lot of dairy there will be little smell, and what smell there is will not be particularly unpleasant.

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Hey /diy/, electricity theory question time.
The diagram a) on my drawing is a parallel electrical connection, apparently the proper, safe way to connect few things (like 5 30watt cfl light bulbs in a bulb sockets in this case) to one plug (a 16 ampere 250 volts one in this case).
Now I was wondering OK but it's shit loads of additional cables and connection blocks... So... what if you would make a connection where you would put more wires into one block socket [like on diagram b)] and then eventually connect the blocks with just one cable if needed.
Would it be save or would you create a danger of frying the connection? (i.e. electrocution and/or a fire hazard)
Would you loose power (the bulb would shine less brightly)?
Is the parallel connection the safest and efficient way to do it?
If not can you think of something better than diagram b) that would still get you less messing around with cables and blocks?

It's troubling me because I don't know what knowledge do I need to have to know what you can or can't do with a grid so that it is safe and works the best.

So... Please share your thoughts, discuss rules, laws, ideas, tips and what nots on the subject, I'll be glad to hear anything that will make things more clear for me.

I'll complete the key to the drawing:
>The yellow cirlce is the bulb in a socket obviously.
>The triangle is a plug
>The "lego blocks" like squares are electrical connection block
>The blue line is live wire
>and the brown line is neutral wire

I also hope I'm in the right board to ask this.
And excuse my crude "masterpiece" drawing
83 posts and 18 images submitted.
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Either way its fine as long as you don't overload the current rating of the terminal blocks and they are large enough to accommodate ask of the wires safely
There should be no exposed conductive parts and remember to crimp a ferrule over any multicore cable that you are clamping in a screw terminal
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They're electrically the same.

b) would be preferred because there's less wire carrying the full load so smaller wire could be used after the initial run from the plug and the connections wouldn't carry as much.
Doesn't really matter though if you use heavy enough wire and solid connections.

Both cases require the wire from the plug to be able to power all the lights. on (b) the next sets of wires only carry about half. The downside is having to connect so many wires together
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>>925336
Learning up to draw a proper circuit diagram would take all of 30 minutes.

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How can I reduce the ripple in a dc circuit?

I tried making speakers but plugging them into my charger causes a buzzing sound.
The cheaper the charger the louder the sound.

I have this bunch of capacitors I can use.

The amp I used is a pam8403, if that helps.
69 posts and 30 images submitted.
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Define 'charger' for me, because I'm envisioning some wall-wart that maybe has a single diode for rectification and maybe no filter cap at all.

You need a full-wave rectified supply with a decently sized filter cap for audio amplification applications. Preferably an LC filter in it to make it as smooth as possible. Don't ask me to draw you one you can google it.
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A charger outputs a voltage higher than the battery, and will usually pulse the voltage because this lets the battery get to a higher capacity and is needed to check the battery voltage to prevent overcharging in some designs. This means the equipment you have connected to the battery is jumping back and forth between the battery voltage and slightly higher charger voltage.

Adding a lot of decoupling capacitors will help a little, but the better solution is an LDO voltage regulator between the battery and equipment. The voltage output of the regulator will be constant even with the varying input from the battery/charger. Use an LDO regulator because a switching regulators cause buzzing in audio equipment.
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>>923846
Just a standard phone charger. Pic related.
I'm using a tp4046 to charge the batteries, a pair of 18650s.

>>923848
So it's not from the high ripple of a cheap charger?

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i never want to pay for a tattoo again

any tattoo experience, /diy/?
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>>926315
The catalogue fucklord.

Use it.
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>>926317
already 404'd you fucking librarian
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>>926320
Bullshit, threads hang around for days or weeks around here.

>>925891

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I buy this thing a few days ago and it was working pretty ok but now it lost some kind of rubber it had in the bottom part (the part that make contact with the strings).

Now I was wondering if I can fix it by myself, seeing through the web and see a few examples that use a hose but idk. I can heat a fishbowl hose and put it with pressure there?

Anyone with experience or enough knowledge to know what I can do? #AnythingToSave5Bucks

Also DIY instruments accessories thread.
8 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>926212
A few layers of heatshrink tubing should do it, as long as it's soft enough to conform to the string (preventing buzzing on the frets) you should be golden. I can't see you paying more than a dollar for it.
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>>926215
Actually, you could use any old piece of hose that fits over the fret arm, sure it will flop around loose when it's not on the guitar but once it's clipped to the neck it'll be solid.

Sage because samefag.
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Anyone here with experience in AC power adapters?

I have a boss ME-70 and I'm running it with batteries. Idk if I can make a power adapter or buy a generic one, one time I read somewhere that if I use a generic it can overheat and it's better use only the official boss power adaptor.

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Help me fix my audio decoder

The pin in circle 1 has been loose for a while and a rubber band around the plug is no longer doing the trick. I know how to solder and I have basic tools but the plate I'm guessing the connecting pin is actually supposed to be soldered to is loose.

If this is not easily fixable my idea is to simply put a ½cm wire between the pin and the capacitor (circle 2) but I'm not sure how to follow the lines. Is it just connected to the right one, both, or does it actually just run past to something else?

English isn't my first language so apologies if I'm not too hype on the technical terms.
10 posts and 1 images submitted.
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What exactly is the problem? What you describe sounds like a broken joint to me.
Just resolder the thing. Heat it up and let it cool off again.
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>>926145
When I wiggle the connector the entire thing (solder and pad included) go with it. It's not connected to the trace anymore.
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>>926127
>knows what a capacitor is
>doesn't know how to follow traces on a PCB
get whoever told you what a capacitor was to show you what traces look like

then get an adult to do the dangerous soldering

>>>/diy/ohm/

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I just bought 2 of these 600CFM inline fans to move air from the top of my paint booth in my garage, through two home furnace filters to stop any particles than outside. My old ones were starting to get old and clogged up, I guess I got the wrong CFM as last time and my new ones are blowing too fast. I unfortunately cannot return them


Is there a way to run them at a slower speed? They are 110V
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One of my fana
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>>925548
Think lamp dimmer but for electric motors.

Also, why not just stick some filters before the fans so they don't clog up.
>>
These types of fan are normally speed controllable. There are different types of controller.

The ones I've seen fitted before now are normally similar to a dimmer switch or there are some that have 5 steps slow to fast.

Stand alone speed controllers however can often cost as much or more than the fan itself.

A cheaper alternative might be to install a blast gate or single blade damper to restrict the airflow.

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Hello /diy/ i'm planning to make a few custom power banks. I want them to be as small as possible. Can someone guide me where to find most reliable circuit boards? I don't mind the price, but the only place to buy them from looks like Aliexpress or other Chinese stores. Not that i think that they sell crap but its hard to trust reviews posted there. I'm planning to use single protected 18650 battery for each one. Maybe someone knows reliable manufacturers or ect?
Thanks in advance.
13 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>925423
Tell me why

Buying an 18650 based powerbank will be cheaper, safer and more reliable than anything you could bodge together yourself.
It will also be smaller than anything you can throw together.
Nobody will suck ya dick because you went through the trouble of making your own.
(Not that you could do that anyway, since you're here asking dumb questions)

1/10 made me reply.

>tl;dr: don't make shit that's cheaper to buy
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>>925437
>/diy/
>someone wants to make his own power bank
>hurrdurr you can just buy it cheaper
that literally applies to almost anything on this board.
Just get out or stop giving shitty useless 'advice'.
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>>925441
all I'm saying is spend your time and energy on something that's actually worthwhile /DIY/ing...

That way you could actually make something cool or interesting.

Anyway cockfag, adafruit has the highest quality USB boosters and Li-ion chargers for DIYing

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I had an alcohol fuelled breakdown on New Years resulting in:

1. A hole in my wall
2. A hole in my bedroom door
3. A hole in my closet door
4. A gouge in the wall

I'm just wondering what the best way to get this damage fixed would be. I guess a plasterer can fix the hole/gouge in the wall, although perhaps this is something easily fixed myself? It's not something I've ever done before.

For the bedroom door I'm almost thinking it would be easier to just buy a new door than try to repair that hole. I'm not quite sure what to do about the closet door though because I'm not confident I'd be able to find a door of the correct dimensions.

Any suggestions?

I'll have to upload the images one by one because I'm on my phone and don't have access to an image editor.
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Please help me, /diy/ this is very important and I have no one else to ask. I'm on my own with this.

pic is a quote I received from my contractor. It seems very overpriced but I have no bases off that.

Background,

This is for my first condo that I purchased 1000 sqft. Closing will be in 2 weeks. I already purchased the flooring (laminate). The quote includes the paint that will be used. The mirror that is mentioned is a giant mirror that takes up an entire wall. The contractor will remove it. He is including two used (but clean!!) toilets.

Thank you all so very much!
26 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Install toilets yourself. 10 minute job per. Charging you twice for base molding? (Floor molding) buy and install outlets / switches yourself for a cost of 5$ per.
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>>925121
he's including the toilets though. Isn't $180 worth it for toilets and installation?
I'll probably remove the carpet myself. Is that difficult?
Where do you see floor molding being charges twice? He's charging me got installation and painting.
I'll definitely do the outlets myself and the mirror seems to be attached to the wall which might include some sort of cutting/tearing to remove. I might need his help to do that.

Thanks for the reply
>>
3,275 for paint? Is this gold flake paint? Personally if it were me, I'd let him take care of the flooring and electrical and paint it yourself. Invite a few friends over, but then some beer and pizza and save yourself about 3 thousand dollars. Also what does the "repair"ing of the wall entail? Is he installing new sheet rock? Is it just patching up some holes?

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Hello /diy/ i have this beast: Conion C-100F and i'm thinking of modding it and replace the top deck with a bluetooth/usb player
I dont want to change anything cosmetically
I will hide the usb connector inside the cassette port and repurpose the cassette buttons to the bluetooth speaker buttons
I'll buy a cheap bluetooth speaker and crack it open and transplant it inside and connect the btSpeaker lines instead of the top deck lines
Is it possible? I dont want to ruin my boombox also i want it to have more functionality
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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The buttons on a tape deck aren't simple pushbuttons. It's a fairly complicated mechanical system: Play button pushes the head into place and locks the eject button. Stop button pulls the head back and unlocks the eject button, etc. The actual electronic buttons are buried in the mechanical apparatus, so you can't just strip out the mechanisms and have a regular set of buttons.

You'll have to completely remove the tape deck, salvage the plastic bits that go on top of the buttons, then put those on a new set of pushbuttons on a new circuit board.
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>>924377
I was looking to do this project myself. I was just going to wire in an auxiliary port and stuff a blue tooth receiver. I still have a stack of cassette's
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>>924479
Maybe it's cuz I'm black, but this makes me think of growing up in Brooklyn in the late 80s. Godspeed :)

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So, my dumbass dog chewed up my new shoes. Sarah McLachlan can't fucking save that bitch now.

I'm not payin for these things again and you can hardly see it, so I don't really care much about covering it up. How would you guys suggest fixing these up so the tear doesen't come apart even more?
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>>926237
I'd just stitch the fuck out of it with some thick white cotton and call it a day. Just make sure all the torn up shit is locked down by the thread as you sew, should prevent further damage.
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>>926245
Alright, thanks.

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Hey guys, I was just curious, anyone else into watches? I recently found a few old ones desperate for a repair and polish. I have the repairs finished but have absolutely no idea how to polish watches or where to start, anyone able to help?
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>926058
Like the glass?
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>>926058
http://www.bernardwatch.com/blog/to-polish-or-not-to-polish-your-watch/
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>>926058
Probably not a good idea since they are likely plated, although you can have watches re-plated.

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