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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 687. page

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Hey guys

I'm trying to build an free standing pullup bar that's strong and easy to take apart (since I move a lot).

From what I've gathered, it'll cost at least $400 to make something sturdy from metal. It seems like a lot just for me to flex my muscle.

A few people have bragged about building something like this for half as much with used scaffolding, but I can't find anyone who actually sells that stuff in my area.

Any suggestions?


I'll post pictures of what I'm going to settle for if nothing good turns up.
18 posts and 6 images submitted.
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I feel like this one would wiggle a lot. Might be crap.
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One more
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Last one. Using rope to make one of these crap design sturdy might be worth while, right?

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I have a leaky faucet in the kitchen. I'm a software engineer by trade, not a plumber. I've been reading up on things, and need three clarifications.

1. The "set screw" to remove the handle, to even get started, it stripped to oblivion. How the hell does someone remove this?

2. Is it enough to shut off the water using the shut-off valves under the sink? Or do I need to shut off the main water to the house? Why?

3. The two shut off valves under the sink are different sizes, and one is stripped too. I use a wrench to turn it, which works half the time. It's bullshit. I want to replace all this, but I need to understand if better technology exists. I've read that ball is better? That having a separate hot/cold knob is better too? Do rich people have to deal with these type of systems? How much would a complete system overhaul cost?
2 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>926106
The set screw in faucets is normally hex/allen head. Are you sure its stripped? If so, screw extractor.

>Is it enough to shut off the water using the shut-off valves under the sink?

Yes.

> Or do I need to shut off the main water to the house?

No.

>Why?

Because water does not magically warp past shut offs when they are closed.

>one is stripped too.

You should replace it then. Replacing the shutoff under the sink will require you to turn off the main water supply or another shutoff further up the line (like at the water heater if its the hot water line).

>I need to understand if better technology exists

If you have the money, the technology exists.

> I've read that ball is better?

Ball valves are nice but not required. Its up tot you.

>That having a separate hot/cold knob is better too?

Its down to preference.

>Do rich people have to deal with these type of systems?

Rich people pay other people to deal with this shit. Those types of people are called "plumbers".

>How much would a complete system overhaul cost?

Depends. Call up all the local plumbers (at least 3), have them each come out and do an estimate then post the results here. We'll tell you which one is right.

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HELP PLEASE THE WATER IS STUCK ON
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Turn it back off then on again
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there should be a cut off switch out in the yard under a metal cover...if u hav a wrench big enough to turn it
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duct tape the faucet

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A while back some anon posted a graphic showing how to cut and sew fur for a hat. I thought I saved it but I can't find it. Does anyone by chance have it?
7 posts and 4 images submitted.
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In soviet Russia you don't wear hat, hat wears you!
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http://www.clonesnclowns.com/2014/01/10/diy-faux-fur-hat-chapka/
Not hard to google, please at least try nex time before wating 30 of MY seconds
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>>922974
I did google, but I wanted the image posted on the forum by the anon because he had a much more detailed pattern, and instructions on sewing the thing together.

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Picked up this Bust at a car boot sale for £1 and i wanted to repair it, i've started to glue back what parts that were broken off, some are completely missing though. What's the best way to repair it?
19 posts and 4 images submitted.
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This is with the last (and biggest) piece thats left to attach
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>>925361
Bondo?

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Guys, I have a confession...I am hopelessly in love with my tools. No matter how shitty quality my tools are, I oil them, I sharpen them, I clean them up. I use needle files to sharpen wire cutter portions of pliers.

I take fine steel wool to take off surface rust as soon as it appears. I am constantly online shopping for more tools. I am insanely aware of moisture exposure and finger print oil for my tools.

Sometimes, when I'm not using my tools in a long time, I just take them out and look at them and give them a few movements to make sure they still work well. Sometimes...I caress them as if they were alive...like they were my pet or something....


Am I alone in this?
20 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>921725
I do this to a certain extent when I get new tools.
Then the feeling wears off and I am drooling to buy more new tools.

I am a borderline hoarder, and love shopping though.
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Get a room, you two...
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do you shove them up your anus?

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Can I do something about broken pads for smd components?
Those pads are for a sim card slot.
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>926005
The proper technique is to get some new pads and super glue them to the board, then electrically bond them to the original traces. Then solder your new component down.

The ghetto way of doing it is to use an xacto knife to scrape some of the green solder resist off of the remaining traces, then solder wires to them, then solder your new SD card slot to the wires, then super glue the SD card slot on to the board. You can expect slower data rates though.
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>>926005
nice brickphone, I know someone who's gonna be doing this 'the ghetto way'
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>>926031

Thanks, I seriously thought there was no way to bring it back to life.

>>926046

I would totally do it the ghetto way if the phone was mine. If my friend doesn't want me to try and fix it after knowing the risks, he's left with a small 4.5'' tablet.

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DIY an orbiter vehicle?
10 posts and 3 images submitted.
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This is as close as you're going to get, OP.
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>>925254
I dunno, anyone as dumb as OP would have a hell of a time making the mold for the fiberglass shell, much less reliable mechanisms beneath.
>>
if you want to build a thing that lives in space, build a cubesat.

if you want to build a rocket that gets into orbit, you're daft. Your goal should be reaching 30km, which is still really hard.

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How hard would it be to build your own hoverboard?
59 posts and 9 images submitted.
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pretty hard
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actually i was thinking about this, maybe buy a broken one and use the controler off of it and just put in a proper motor and batteries.

i wanna see someone put one of these in there http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25413__Turnigy_RotoMax_150cc_Size_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html
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>>920852
depends what you mean by "hoverboard".
if you're thinking about something on wheels, then it would be pretty easy.
building something that would bend the laws of physics on the other hand would be difficult

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So, my gate latch popped off. It's attached with these 4 bolts/screws. I have a power drill with a bunch of bits but none that seem to work. The bolts have this circular hole in the middle that extends most of the way through the center of the bolt and nothing is fitting in.

I also tried banging it in with a rubber mallet to no avail. Any ideas what type of bolt this is and what bit I would need for it?

I have two more pics incoming.
5 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>925958
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>>925960
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>>925958
they're not bolts, they're rivets. drill them out and find bolts & nuts to fasten them into place

Hey /diy/ I was wondering if anyone here has had any experience making plushies.

I'm making one for my friends birthday and it's of her favorite character. I'm using this other plushie as a reference and I want to make this "chibi" plush with similar sizes and what not. I have all the measurements and have been reading some things on plushie making but I also wanted to see if anyone here may have advice on making patterns or may even have a pattern that is similar to this.
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>925801
/cgl/ is the weeaboo girl board. Theyre more the decorative sewing type. If however you wanted to sew a tarp, sail or a skin over frame canoe we would be able to help.
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>>925807
or repair a sewing machine
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>>925810
Interesting, I apologize for the incorrect categorization of my post. I shall try my luck there. Thank you.

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What is this circular track stuff called? Its used for attaching fabric with stitched in plastic piping to rigid surfaces (among other things i'm sure). You slide the part of the fabric that has the plastic tubing in the side of the track.
Haven't been able to successfully guess the correct google terms to find plain sections of this.
4 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>925788
retainer moulding?
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/69boottrim.html
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>>925797
awning rail
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>>925800
Caravanners of the world unite.

Hey /diy/.

Suppose one wanted to charge a 100W battery bank from wind, solar, and a dc generator. Now I could probably use diodes to keep from charging my solar panels or turbines.

But the MPPT controller I'm using for my panels can be linked with other MPPT controllers. I think this would be ideal for ensuring my batteries aren't overwhelmed with multiple power sources simultaneously and my sources are safe.

My question is, could I use an MPPT charge controller for things besides solar? Like for an alternator, turbine, or dc charger?
3 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Yup. That's the beauty of MPPT chargers: they convert anything you throw at it to a proper charging voltage

You are making however some blank or incorrent statements, so you really need to study more about this topic or have a professional install your system, or else I'm forecasting you'll zap your panels, controller or yourself.

Plenty of video tutorials and explanations on the YewTubes
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>>925728
The only one I know of is the midnite classic 150 with a clipper which is EXPENSIVE. Most wind and hydro owners directly hook up a permanent magnet alternator direct to the batteries and use a voltage sensing controller to activate a relay. Look it up on missouri wind and solar. They have a few nice ones that you can program, which is needed since voltages can vary system by system and you need the set point slightly higher than your panels bulk charge so it wont interfere with the solar charge controller. Wind is a waste of time unless you have a premium wind spot and i do mean premium. Top of a hill, un obstructed no trees around and a 50 foot+ tower. Taller the better. 48 volts is mandatory for any windmill over 500 watts, 24 volts can do 1000. The cable costs are insane at 12 volt systems because of transmission distances. Honestly with enough PV you dont need hydo or wind but hydro is absolute god tier off grid power. Even a modest creek thats year round adds a level of power unheard of. Even if it only produces 100 watts an hour thats 2400 watts a day, that will keep the fridge from draining the batteries at night. It wont keep a air conditioner running but it will keep the batteries from sagging to much at night from light loads like lights and fans. Would really help on those cloudy days. Just remember, the controllers are parallel at the battery not the panels. Each controller has a separate string or array of panels. Midnite classics can handle up to 4 in parallel and they talk back and forth with a data cable. They also have a current limit mode so you can make sure you dont over charge or boil the battery.
That pick gets my dick hard.

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I'm installing some L-track in the back of my jeep, and I have to drop some screws through the tub and weld nuts to the underside. The problem is the holes are lining up at the worst possible location, right into the bent section of a support piece for the tub. I already notched one out with a dremel as you can see but its kind of shitty and tedious.

I need to do 7 more of these, can you think of a better way than notching with a dremel?
I thought about removing the whole piece but there are at least 20 somewhat large spot welds that I would have to fill in which doesn't seem worth it.
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Would rivnuts/nutserts be strong enough for this? These tracks are supposed to hold in a seat. 2 tracks per seat, 7 fasteners per 3 foot track. I would think 14 nutserts into 1 layer of 18ga sheet metal and 1 layer of slightly thicker metal would be sufficiently strong to hold a passenger in place, right?
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>>925543
So what you're saying is:
>drill more holes
>use more rivet nuts
>must be stronger because more holes
>???
>profit
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>>925559
I'm not drilling any more holes, I'm only replacing the nuts I had planned on welding to the underside with rivnuts.

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So I bought this A-Ha tape that I found at a resale shop and when I got home I noticed that the little foam thing on the tape wasn't attached and was just floating around so I took it out of the tape
What would be the best method of getting that back in there?
Would super clue work or could I use tape or something to save me a trip from the store ?
20 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>925113
don't use super glue on foam, but any other glue would do, PVA, double side sticky tape, a world of kiddie diy is open to you.
Also wtf are you doing with a fucking tape in 2015?
Rhetorical question I'm going to bed, GL.
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>>925113

just find a sacrificial cassette and take it apart, remove the whole assembly with the foam and put it in the cassette you want to save and put it back together. I would be weary of using glue on it or anywhere near the tape itself. if you get glue on it, it will fuck up the head when it tries to play it.

and dont listen to this fuckstain >>925116
theres nothign wrong with having tapes in 2015+1. that guy is just mad because hes only 15 and has never had the pleasure of using old technology and cannot appreciate it
>>
I've fixed many of those but it's been so long I can't remember what I used.
Generally superglue isn't good for porous stuff but it would probably work fine if it were used sparingly(not so much the pad would soak it up)
Rubber cement would probably work fine.
I've probably fixed them with wood glue even.

Don't try to take the tape apart, you're liable to do more damage than good.

Sauce:I grew up with cassettes.

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