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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 644. page

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File: AnonGoesSolderingOn.png (2MB, 1560x666px) Image search: [Google]
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So this anon wanted to learn to solder and bought a soldering kit. Said silly anon has no idea what these items are.

Any kind individual able to help out?
17 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>939821
The inside of the solder "injection". Spring loaded with a button on the side.
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>>939827
That's a desoldering pump, you use it to suck solder from boards.

Load the spring, heat up the solder, put the nozzle next to the liquid solder and suck it in by pressing the button.
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>>939833
Ok cheers, I figured that out with quora. What is the orange substance, and the other wire with in the image beside the keyboard?

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What is this thing? Not the pencil
>property is on a well
>house on property, built in 1958
1/2
27 posts and 6 images submitted.
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>>935995
Clearly it's a crank.

Like this thread.
>>
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2/2
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>>935997
Yeah but for what? It doesn't have a handle that spins so I don't think it is for some old tractor or anything like that, maybe for part of a well?

File: Bedroom.jpg (40KB, 554x415px) Image search: [Google]
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Can anyone tell me what the colour of the room is? I want to repaint my bedroom and I really want to know what it is. I think it's taupe but I'm not too sure.
10 posts and 2 images submitted.
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White
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It's clearly white and gold.
>>
White

File: IMAG0383.jpg (3MB, 3024x5376px) Image search: [Google]
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Okay /DIY/. I am making a microcontroller dev board, but it is super compact and you can get fabricated if you like it. (As in the Gerber files and such will be posted online after extensive testing)

I am just having one problem after copious amounts of googling. This connector in this picture. For the love of God what is it called? It will be used for board interconnects but if I can't figure it out I might as well just use an arduino or some clone of it.

Anyways any help is appreciated.

>TLDR; what is this connector called?
5 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Slim style Board-to-FPC

Bout the closest I could find, that wasn't an iPhone part

http://www.molexkits.com/Type/SlimStack/
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>>940405
I fucking love you
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>>940410

You know the rules,

tits or gtfo

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Hello there I was managing my cables as I did some few changes on my setup,
Just wanted you guys to give me if possible some advice with it, as it is a transparent cristal desk and it can't be drilled. Double side tapes are an option, but it would be weird as the desk is transparent. What do you say?
Also feel free to post your own works im sure your proud with.
38 posts and 8 images submitted.
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Your cables are too short to really do much with it. Everything is pulled tight, no slack for routing.

I would just go with a nice paintable cable raceway down the wall, personally.
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use colored split loom and run el wire inside to make it glow
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>>937556
this

your cables are too short to go to the right

if you can maybe try to stick some cable tie mounts on the under side of the desk and then run everything to the right side of the desk and then drop from there, under the desk, so it will be totally invisible

File: outlet.jpg (57KB, 1105x1738px) Image search: [Google]
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Hey electronics people.

How would you rig up your houses electriity box to tell you which outlet, specifically, is having electricity drained from it?

I got the idea because at one point in my life, my family had two homes. We had electricity in them both, but only lived in one because of reasons. No, it's not because we're rich, it was because of a divorce, and then we needed to go to a better school. etc.

anyway. We had neighbors sneak over while we weren't occupying the house and rig up extension cords so they could sap our electricity. We couldn't contest the bill with the phone company because we couldn't prove they were doing it.

That gave me the idea of a standard home log of which outlets are having power sapped from them. So say, if only the outdoor outlet is being drained from, it'd be proof the only power consumption is being stolen.

What do yall think? How would you do this?
37 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>935425
>We had neighbors sneak over while we weren't occupying the house and rig up extension cords so they could sap our electricity

how did you know
>>
I'd install cameras.

Also, out of curiosity - you pay your electric bill to the phone company?
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>>935428
Because the house was unoccupied, everything was unplugged, but my mother kept the power on because we visited occasionally to clean it up. When your electricity bill goes up to $50 a month despite using absolutely no power for lights, heat or flushing the toilet, there's only a few things it could be.

File: blacksmithing.jpg (9KB, 325x234px) Image search: [Google]
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Hey guys I have a sickness and the only cure is more anvils ringing. Post pics of current projects you may be working on, favorite tools, techniques you just learned, inspire others to make something great. That being said, I'm currently a newbie and I'm thinking way ahead, I'm really not sure what anvil to get. Refflinghaus, peddinghaus-ridgid, Turkish/Czech anvils, cast steel Nimba, or the relatively new cast steel Blu anvils.
168 posts and 33 images submitted.
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Milling this old track tomorrow for a anvil. Will post pics if thread is still around. Also got some spikes to tinker with. Should I mill a hardy hole? What size are they?
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I was thinking of buying this set. What would I still need to get in addition to this besides a hairdryer or something.
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>>920608
Lokomo.
I don't know where you live but here on the old continent old Soviet states have good blacksmithing shit. There is still lots of stuff available as it wasn't that long ago they were used. Aren't as expensive. I bought an eastern block anvil for my friend who is a blacksmith. Was cheaper and as good as a lokomo....

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Old thread:
>>934305

I'll try to keep this one alive so I can actually get some content going. To answer your first obvious question, yes I do realise I sound like an autist that has no idea what they're doing.

>>935248
Each of the extractor fans is supposedly rated to push (up to) 445cfm through a 100mm x 3m duct (which I guess is probably marketing BS then).

Problem is I don't know how much cfm I need (no documentation), and even if I did I don't have an anemometer to measure it.

The two extractors together push enough air to provide a slight positive pressure at the intake while the unit is running so I figure it's about right.

The purpose of the cooling system is to keep the room cool, the computer will be getting it's own extraction hose in a little bit, but it only spits out about 500w of heat under heavy load. The main problem is that the outside temperature gets above 45C here sometimes which renders the room uninhabitable.

I'm going to make some more tweaks to it and see how much I can get out of it. Cooling capacity on this unit is supposedly 2.6kW which should be more than enough, but in its stock configuration, even running continuously it didn't cool the room more than about 5 degrees ( tested at 35C down to 30C, 38C down to 34C).

With this intake system it cools more like 10C, (36C down to 26-27C).

My goal is to be able to get down to 24C in 40C weather.

Next step is sealing any leaks, adding my custom scoop and insulating the exhaust hose.

I'm considering diverting some of the air from the intake system to the cold side radiator, theory being that I could push the room into a slightly positive pressure, preventing hot air from being drawn from the outside.

Last resort is mounting the whole unit up on the windowsill inside a box.

If that doesn't work I'll bite the bullet and buy a window A/C unit.

>>934790
I'll try to keep this thread updated when there are new developments.
7 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>938422
1. make sure the condenser is clean, and the evaporator for that matter.
2. switch to metal ducting, it flows more air with less friction. Tape all the joints with foil tape, not duct tape.
3.insulate your ductwork, because youre bringing unconditioned air into your living space, and heat is transferring through your duct material into the room air.
4. room size? LxWxH
5 A/C btu rating?
6. just get the window a/c.

For reference i cool my upstairs master bedroom (12'x12'x10'=1440 cubic feet) with a 5000 btu window a/c. i use a honeywell turbo force fan to circulate the air. and i keep the door closed. it doesnt have any problem keeping the room 25F cooler than outside air.

i apologize for my imperial units, i cant into metric, im too old and set in my ways.
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>>938558
1. It seemed alright when I looked at it, but I'll run some compressed air through it to be sure

2. I don't really want to buy more tubing, but I'll try using foil tape in you think it will help. Do you think it would be helpful to make some kind of joining piece to connect the two 100mm hoses to the 150mm hose?

3. What should I use to insulate it? Fibreglass? Foam? Preferably something cheap I can pick up at the hardware store.

4. Room is roughly 12'x14'x8' = ~1350 cubic feet. It's small.

5. Cooling capacity is quoted at 2.6kW which I believe converts to about 8800 BTU, but I can't into imperial so I could be wrong.

6. That would be the right solution, but it's just not something I can afford at the moment.

A change of 25F is only 14C, ideally I want to be able to have a 38F reduction, from 113F to 75F. In its current configuration I seem to get a maximum of about 18F.
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>>938667
1. if its clean, then its clean.
2. foil tape wont make a difference with your current ducts. and making a plenum box wont help with flow on your current setup, just make sure its sealed where the three hoses join.
3. duct wrap or something similar pic related, fiberglass inside aluminium outside.

your op pic looks like you have black paper taped over a window wall, could you hang a heavy curtain as an insulator? or add an awning to keep sun off the windows? keep as much heat out as possible. if you need 38F drop, you will probably need a more powerful A/C. Best of luck though!

File: complete-printer-1-medium.jpg (172KB, 1024x768px) Image search: [Google]
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Does anyone have experience with building their own 3d printer?
I''ve been toying with the idea, and i think it could be done at a reasonable price, but I thought i would ask here if anyone had some experience? what parts should be bought as specific 3d printer parts, and which could be replaced with standart "home depo" stuff without much trouble? and what kind of software should be used?
16 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>939787
http://www.instructables.com/id/eWaste-60-3DPrinter/
If you can scrounge up your own frames and motors, then you'd really only need to buy the printer head and main board.

Frame could def. be wood or something, but you need nice stepper motors, which you could salvage from printers or something. In the link he's using dvd drives.
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>>939787
I tried. I ended up buying a kit for 240$. Now that I've seen it, though, Im building more cnc stuff. Openbuilds.com or org or whatever has very cheap frame supplies. EBay sells reprap hotends. Belt driven axis' are easy as shit to build with linear extrusion and home depot parts. I bought 28 shower door rollers for the openbuilds stuff, they fit beautifully, and don't cost 4-5$ a piece like they want for wheels.

Anyhow controls are the most confusing part. I use an mks base 1.2 board. It has the software and stepper drivers all in one. I know there's an arduino shield, and I have one, but I haven't gotten into how to actually use it as mks base does it all in one board, and it was pre-programmed.
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>>939906
Also, I'll check back here for the next hour if you would like pics of anything or explanations. I'm no pro, in fact I just got my first good print Saturday. But, shit is always more clear when you can see it.

File: $_35.jpg (9KB, 300x300px) Image search: [Google]
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I got one of these bt recievers to 3.5 for my 1980s car with cassette.
It has a small battery that lasts 4 hours and charges in 1.5.
How improbable would it be, that if I hardwired this to a 5v point on my car so it charges 24/7 it wouldn't drain my battery if I drive daily?
On another note I could add a powerbank to it and have the car charge that when powered on.
Another thing I thought of was removing the battery and simply have it power on when I turn on the radio soldering where the battery would be to some 5v point on the radio (probably the backlight or something), in that case I want to program a PIC to do the following:
-On power on wait 2 seconds, press button for 3 seconds, end.
Because every time you want it to turn on you need to press play for 3 seconds.
23 posts and 6 images submitted.
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Pretty trivial except your car is almost certainly 12v. So then you just need a Usb car charger and plug that into your cigarette lighter.
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>>939591
Or get this you just plug in a 2 sided 3.5 jack from phone to cassette player. Skip the middleman. No batteries of moving parts. Its the technological revolution apple doesn't want you to know about.
Bluetooth is a technology ahead of it's time. It may be viable when we get decent super capacitor batteries, but for know it's just a shiny thingy too slow to be useful but to cool for school.
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>>939612
It's mjust a pain to take my phone out of my pocket and connect the 3.5 jack every time I want music.
Right now I soldered the BT chip to my radio so it actually works, the only problem is battery and turning it on every time.

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Woodworkers: was your planer and jointer worth the cost?
6 posts and 0 images submitted.
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>>940316
I have no idea, i will put my drill in her pockethole, that's for sure.
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>>940316
SFW board bro.

Yes.
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>>940316
Nope. but that's because I started picking up a ton of offcuts of plywood since buying them. Jointer was a huge help turning palletwood into nice boards, got planer after that and haven't had a reason to really use it yet :/

File: vlcsnap-2012-06-30-00h41m07s77.png (141KB, 544x408px) Image search: [Google]
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hey /diy/

This is my first time posting on this board, I was wondering if there's any way I can build my own weightlifting gym in my backyard?

pic unrelated
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>939686
No
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>>939686
use google before us. That might help.
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>>939686
You are much better off buying a used rack off of craigslist.
Its one of those things that everyone buys, and then it sits around and then you sell for cheap

Youll spend more money and end up with shittier equipment if you diy it.

File: Pi_Zero_v1.2.png (89KB, 688x361px) Image search: [Google]
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I want to make a small handheld device. Nothing fancy, just for playing simple games. Is the Raspberry Pi Zero good enough for that, or should I go with a larger model?
16 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>938617
>Nothing fancy, just for playing simple games
I don't own one and I can't answer your question, but you'll probably have to be a bit more specific than that.
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>>938627
Sorry. I want to make a small handheld device that's able to play non-intensive games. Indie games, like Risk of Rain, or Binding of Isaac. Maybe emulate older games from the 80s-90s.
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Yes it's good enough for that

Anyone on /diy/ know what I would need to start making rings? Tools, metals, what types of forming would i use, that sorta stuff.
5 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Assorted small files, moulds, a small furnace capable of melting metal, a few crucibles, dremel, etc.

It really depends on how you want to do it and what materials you wish to use. I've made rings with wood, brass, steel, etc and every one of them required a slightly different method.

Google is your friend, there are very, very many tutorials on ring making. Go watch some youtube videos.
>>
google "lost wax casting" as well
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File: chris chan.jpg (667KB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]
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>>940200

File: 20160201_231610.jpg (516KB, 2048x1152px) Image search: [Google]
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Hi /diy/, wasn't sure what board I should post this on so forgive me if it's not allowed. I bought what appears to be a handmade samurai lamp at a swap meet for 5$ from some old lady who literally had this and like 2 other things on her table. Never seen anything like it until now, thought it was too cool to pass up. can anyone tell me about it or if it's worth anything? Looks extremely old. It's also fully functional and about 2 feet tall.
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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looks chinese to me rather than japanese
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>>940042
how about post a fucking picture that is actually lit up
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>>940042
>Looks at catalog
>WTF is a samurai lamp?
>sees picture
>oh

Yeah, what anon said, it's Chinese. Or at least the figure is a chinese person, who knows where the lamp was made. No way to assess it's value from that crappy ass picture. It could be hand made by a famous artist or it could be flea market kitsch, honestly can't tell.

Check the base and everywhere else for a manufacturer or artists mark. That'll give you some ammunition to google with.

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