[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / bant / biz / c / can / cgl / ck / cm / co / cock / d / diy / e / fa / fap / fit / fitlit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mlpol / mo / mtv / mu / n / news / o / out / outsoc / p / po / pol / qa / qst / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / spa / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vint / vip / vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y ] [Search | Free Show | Home]

Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 637. page

This is a blue board which means that it's for everybody (Safe For Work content only). If you see any adult content, please report it.

File: IMG_8749.jpg (2MB, 2272x1704px) Image search: [Google]
IMG_8749.jpg
2MB, 2272x1704px
I needed longer extension cord.

The hardware store is closed, and all I had laying around was this heavy duty cord that my uncle uses for his projects.

To cover the exposed copper, I wrapped a couple nitrile gloves around them.

What could go wrong?

Nitrile rubber is electricity resistant, right?
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
>>
>>942235
Trolling goes to /b/

We have no time for this shit
>>
>>942236
I'm completely serious.
>>
>>942235
stop fucking around
throw that shit in the trash and buy a new cord

File: 1432232958470.png (312KB, 506x662px) Image search: [Google]
1432232958470.png
312KB, 506x662px
Sup /diy/
My bro's birthday is coming up next month and I'm making him a handheld emulator for NES, Gameboy, etc., and I'm doing it with a Raspberry pi. The most interesting part is going to be the controls, for which I have bought an arduino pro mini. Ideally, I would like it to have 11 buttons on it (A, B, X, Y, L, R, up, down, left, right) and also a joystick. The arduino can handle all of those inputs, however my problem is that it doesn't have enough empty headers to use on the GPIO on the Raspberry pi (nor does the RPi contain enough empty GPIO pins for all those buttons). I was thinking of using only 1 digital output on the Arduino and sending a few bytes at a time containing all of the button states to the Raspberry Pi for it to know if a button is pressed or not. I guess my question is can I even do this? Is there a better way to do it?

tl;dr can I use an Arduino board using only digital out to be a controller for an emulator?
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
>>
>>942226
Whoops, said 11 buttons and mentioned 10. It should probably have a start button too. I can answer any questions if they would help. Thanks in advance anons
>>
That's the way to do it.
Parallel load the button states then "shift" them out in serial.
If you use 2 8bit shift registers hook 'em in series.

Use a second pin for the register clock.
Another pin for load/shift select
>>
I2c, usart or spi can solve the problem, no need to bit bang a serial bus.
Are you going to use an rpi zero? Or the normal model? What kind of lcd are you thinking on?

File: image.jpg (33KB, 400x400px) Image search: [Google]
image.jpg
33KB, 400x400px
I'm going to start making tobacco smoking pipes, Is a scroll saw strong enough to cut 2 1/2-to-3" pieces of cherrywood or should I stick with a band saw? I like the idea of a scroll saw for the detail aspect.
6 posts and 2 images submitted.
>>
There are a TON of different sizes of scroll saw. I'd suggest going to a local woodturners or woodworkers meet up and asking them, if you aren't sure. There's sure to be at least one pipemaker.
>>
Use a jigsaw pussy
>>
Why do you need a scroll saw? You really shouldn't be using a saw for anything but the general shape. Then you throw it on a lathe, whittle, and sand.

File: HACKSAW.jpg (386KB, 1946x600px) Image search: [Google]
HACKSAW.jpg
386KB, 1946x600px
Sup /diy/,
Going to share my hacksaw build.

I have a junior hacksaw (6" blade), but no full size hacksaw. being on a tight budget i can only afford the blade. using some scrap metal, nails, wood and a few screws, I was able to make my own hacksaw and you can too.

The tools required are , left and right cutting tin snips, junior hacksaw, power drill, assorted drill bits, file, hammer, bench vise, 0.500 x 0.500 x 16" steel bar, 1/4 hex screwdriver, 3/8 wrench.

The materials needed are, hacksaw blade, 22 gauge sheet metal this can be taken from appliances such as stove,s fridges, washing machines and dryers, .500 x .188 x 24 steel bar, .500 x .125 x12 steel bar, .500 x .500 x 2 steel bar, nails, sheet metal screws, bolt, machine screw, 1 x 2 x 4 nom. wood, 2 - 8.5x11 sheets copy paper, tape pencil.

First step is to make a template. tape 2 sheets of paper together along the short side. trace he outline of the hacksaw blade on the lower left hand corner. around the outline of the blade draw the desired shape of the hacksaw, the with of the frame should be .500", allow 1.0" of space on each end of the blade.
9 posts and 3 images submitted.
>>
File: DSCF7769.jpg (706KB, 2048x1536px) Image search: [Google]
DSCF7769.jpg
706KB, 2048x1536px
Secondly the frame sections are formed. the frame sections are made by bending and hammering sheet metal on a 0.500 square bar as a mandrel. Cut the sheet metal to a width of 2.563" refer to the template for lengths. First bend is .125" in an L shape, Clamp the sheet metal with the mandrel in the vise with .125 of sheet metal above the mandrel. hammer the sheet metal to form a 90 deg bend. Continue forming the sheet metal around the bar forming a square tube. Slide the formed tube off the mandrel. Cut the tube to the required lengths.

Third the frame is connected and a handle attached. The frame is jointed with thin steel bars bent and laminated together. cut 7- 2" length of .188 bar and 4 length of .125 bar. Bend the bars for the joints, referring to the template for the angle. each joint has 2 - .188 bars and 1 - .125 bars. drill through the sheet metal and bar bar, rivet using common nails. add a handle using the same process.

Lastly make the mounts for the saw blade. Cut a 1.0 section of .5 square bar. cut a slot .5 inches deep and wide enough to accept a hack saw blade. drill a hole intersecting the slot, corresponding to the hole on the hacksaw blade. drill a hole on the end of the bar and tap it to receive a bolt. mount this to the frame by drilling a hole into a joint and bolting through. the front mount is made the same way. a threaded rod is attached to the front mount, passed through a hole drilled in the frame and a wing nut screwed onto the end. two pins hold the blade in place
>>
>>942176
Excellent work anon.
>>
>>942175
Looks pretty good.
You going to shape the handle for comfort?

File: image.jpg (104KB, 750x500px) Image search: [Google]
image.jpg
104KB, 750x500px
>fast
>super strong
>inexpensive

It just werks.
27 posts and 4 images submitted.
>>
>>942078
>inexpensive
Fucking where? They're always like $50 for a piece of plastic with two metal collars in it and a drill bit. I really want one still.
>>
>>942180
Then get a plastic block, a couple metal collars, and a drill bit.
Drill *degree holes in the plastic,
glue the metal collars in
and youre done.
>>
>>942180
Its really dumb that the vise grip is sold separately.

File: fj9Nrt6SyE93Hi9sb9msuBZ7.gif (52KB, 837x1024px) Image search: [Google]
fj9Nrt6SyE93Hi9sb9msuBZ7.gif
52KB, 837x1024px
Is there a way to make a weight to pull down with stronger force?

Something like a reverse pulley, that would make the thing at the end seem heavier?

(sorry if im being stupid, its just something i cant wrap my head around)
14 posts and 5 images submitted.
>>
>>942053
Gearing.
>>
>>942053
pulley in op gives no mechanical advantage

if you have a pulley that gives mechanical advantage then just swap the load with the ... other bit...
>>
File: pulleys.png (5KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]
pulleys.png
5KB, 640x480px
like this OP

File: jack stands, hazard freight.jpg (362KB, 1000x747px) Image search: [Google]
jack stands, hazard freight.jpg
362KB, 1000x747px
should i drop like $200 on four 6-ton jack stands to get 24" of lift for working on my car?

or spend something like $20 on wood to make some solid 8" tall wood footings for my 16" jacks to sit on?
and if so, how should i build them?
16 posts and 2 images submitted.
>>
>>942021

if they slip, you're going to the emergency room.

I'd get the jack stands myself, but if you think you can safely build footings, just make sure they're secure as fuck and handle the load.
>>
>>942021
>spend something like $20 on wood to make some solid 8" tall wood footings
You're not going to be able to get enough wood to make stable cribbing for anywhere near $20.

Cribbing can be infinitely safer than using jackstands, but I'm 99% sure you don't know how to build up a proper crib.

Also, chinafreight those fuckers:
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-jack-stand-set-38847.html
>>
>>942028
that's why i'm asking; how do i make stable cribbing?

i was thinking a line of 2x6's standing on their end, maybe 4 or 5, with 2x8s sandwiched top and bottom. bolts through the 2x6's and screws down through the 2x8's into the 2x6's

File: DSCF4677.jpg (141KB, 1024x680px) Image search: [Google]
DSCF4677.jpg
141KB, 1024x680px
Have we hit the maximum power draw from a wall socket for computer power supplies?

American current is 120V at 60Hz and most houses allow for about 15 amps per circuit (correct me if I'm wrong) so this means:
watts = 1 × 15A × 120V = 1800W

Of course the wiring and breakers in a house will never be perfect, and there will usually be other things using power from a circuit in a house other than the PSU (lights, TV, ceiling fan, etc). So, if you had a 1600 watt PSU in your computer taking in the maximum power draw (which is completely possible, 4P board with four 140 watt 16-core Opterons, 32 sticks of RAM, and four Titan X GPUs hits about the 1600 watt limit), you couldn't possibly have anything else on that circuit, otherwise it would trip the breaker?

As PC parts become more efficient per watt (Titan X only takes 250 watts while being one of the most powerful consumer GPUs on the market, while about two years ago the GTX 690 was market leader but used about 50 more watts), does anyone here think that we will ever need more than 1600 watts, or is that the peak wattage of computer PSUs that we will experience for the foreseeable future?
33 posts and 3 images submitted.
>>
File: 17-101-033-05.jpg (28KB, 640x480px) Image search: [Google]
17-101-033-05.jpg
28KB, 640x480px
>>941976
Before anyone else says anything, I'm just talking about home usage. Of course more powerful PSUs exceeding 2000w can be purchased but they are usually for server environments where the available amperage coming from the wall outlet would be much higher. There have been a few "home use" PSUs 2000 watts and higher, but I have never found one that isn't either complete shit or doesn't require two separate plugs from two separate circuits in your house.

Pic related, external 2000 watt PSU, (legitimate) reviews say it is completely terrible and one review said the buyer had to plug the two inputs into separate rooms in his house to avoid tripping the breaker.
>>
>>941976

I HIGHLY doubt a typical American house is wired for 15 amps.

In Australia a bog standard house connection is 75A @ 240Vrms = 18,000W

If you had less than 2kW then you wouldn't be able to run things like washing machines, driers, etc..
>>
>>941976
if anything we'll see more people putting in dedicated circuits for their PCs since obviously most people run them longer than 3 hours and you don't want to fry anything
I don't see any one upping the power on these because they don't want to risk anything

File: 1454261121520.jpg (95KB, 540x523px) Image search: [Google]
1454261121520.jpg
95KB, 540x523px
After hunting down what was wrong with breakers in my new apartment (badly burnt insides of a breaker), I was wondering - is there a safe way to trip someone's breakers without harming the electronics and live through the ordeal?
24 posts and 1 images submitted.
>>
>plug in lots of things
>switch on lots of things
>repeat till overload trip, profit.

be easier just flipping them manually tho. They are not generally designed to kil the unwary. Bonus points for finding a 'Test' button.
>>
at the 100A fuse box just after the meter, you can reverse one phase with the neutral. this places 220V across plugs and lights, and should definitely pop the breakers without doing TOO MUCH damage to TVs and stereos.
>>
At work I always found the best way to trip a breaker is to drive a screw into the Romex

So, i'm thinking of doing a bear coat, like Blake uses in the second episode of Workaholics
Thing is, the coat part is prett easy to make, just sewing and stuff, but it's the bear part that kinda makes me a bit worried
Should i model it out of foam and then glue the faux fur on top? should i make the entire thing out of fur and then just stuff it with those fiber things that you get on pillows?
And for the teeth and claws, should i do it in clay and paint it later?
6 posts and 5 images submitted.
>>
File: bear-coat-details.jpg (86KB, 600x400px) Image search: [Google]
bear-coat-details.jpg
86KB, 600x400px
>>941903
This project has pricked my interests.

This is the detailing from a commercial one that was for sale.
Head looks like it was constructed the same as plush/teddy bear.
>>
File: KPlXU.jpg (131KB, 607x911px) Image search: [Google]
KPlXU.jpg
131KB, 607x911px
>>941903
Just use a real bear?

Not sure what the issue is here, it's not illegal to hunt them...
>>
File: 415ZIb95M6L.jpg (26KB, 324x500px) Image search: [Google]
415ZIb95M6L.jpg
26KB, 324x500px
>>941913
Yeah, this is the "official" one, even tho it doesn't look anything like the one he uses(it's just a shitty cash grab, actually)
The original is 100 dollars cheaper, but it's really difficult to find
The original looks like it's made of foam, instead of the plushy one from your pic, but i'm scared i'm gonna fuck up the fur when i try to glue it on the foam(and btw, is insulation foam the best foam to carve this out of?)

File: DSC_0233.jpg (339KB, 1920x1080px) Image search: [Google]
DSC_0233.jpg
339KB, 1920x1080px
I'm painting the plastic parts of my car interior, but the paint keeps doing this.
Does anyone know why this happens or how it can be prevented?
I applied 2 coats of plastic primer first, so that can't be it. Is it just shitty plastic?
6 posts and 2 images submitted.
>>
>>941875
If you proprly primed the surface, it's either some specialty paint (not compatible with primer), large amounts of moisture, poor cleaning or old paint.
>>
Those are "fish eyes" caused by impurities on the base. If it's automotive interior then it needs a major cleaning before any spraying due to numerous chemicals containing silicone, Armor-All to be specific. A good wax and grease remover and some elbow grease will get it off. DX-330 from PPG is my go to for cleaning interior panels. Remember to clean BEFORE you sand or else you risk embedding impurities into the substrate and you'll never get them out.
>>
>>941882
>>941886

Ok, thanks. I guess I didn't clean or sand the material good enough beforehand. This rubberish stuff tends to build up on VW MK4 interior plastic and maybe I didn't get it all off.
Is there any way to fill most of these holes up?
Do I just try to apply more layers of paint until most them are filled or would this be futile?

File: 1454556781315.png (337KB, 600x600px) Image search: [Google]
1454556781315.png
337KB, 600x600px
Long shot /diy/

Where could one possibly go to acquire proprietary grade schematics?

Is my only option to have a "spy" on the side?

Please fuck off with "le google".
9 posts and 3 images submitted.
>>
>>941866
by designing them yourself or reverse engineering a product by taking it apart and measuring everything.

/thread
>>
>>941866

did you try BING?
>>
What kind of answer are you expecting?

File: img1.jpg (22KB, 595x121px) Image search: [Google]
img1.jpg
22KB, 595x121px
Not sure if this is the right board, but where do I shop for all my /diy/ needs? Specifically, small springs. The local place closed down several years ago and my weak googlefu wants me to buy in bulk.

I'm looking to replace the spring in picrelated with something weaker (it injects too fast as is). Alternatively, I want to make a variable speed autoinjection device, but I don't know where to start. The only one on the market I know of is the LISA, and it's too expensive for me on top of not being compatible with my syringes.
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
>>
>>941850
you can make your own custom springs with music wire
>>
Make a spring cylinder that has adjustable volume.
>>
>>941850
>Specifically, small springs.

In my experience, this is the hardest kind of thing to find. It's the perfect storm of "good fucking luck" factors: There's no standard, the equipment used to make them is specialized, and they're almost always made-to-order.

Honestly, the "buy some music wire and make your own" tends not to be that bad a suggestion. I keep a couple spools for this purpose, although I keep finding the stuff extremely useful for things here and there, too. The only other practical option is to poke around for spring kits and hope there's one in there that will work.

File: Oldcrap.jpg (3MB, 5000x5000px) Image search: [Google]
Oldcrap.jpg
3MB, 5000x5000px
Pun intended.. not mine. Pretty much just wanna share this build style.. the largest beams in the roof are only 8 inches wide. [measured] the total length of the place is roughly measured to 48x46 feet.

Some back story on the place as I know it; The house was deemed historical to the area, the company who bought the land to build huge ugly apartments was forced to move the building. and so they did... to where it is now. They did the crappiest job ever and didn't really give two flying fucks about the place; before they moved it, all the windows where intact, the building was level it had screen all around the front porch, the back half of the building WASN'T missing, all the doors where still good. when they moved the house, they broke a few windows because.. moving a fucking house with a truck.. anyways they never repaired them and just boarded them up. its been sitting for a few years how it is now, shame its pretty much beyond repair now.

also more ruined now because well.. you build shit apparent for cheap spics a nignogs to move into, and their disgruntled children alike hop the apartments fencing and go there to smoke their weed and drink cheap ass beer they stole from their grandfather. and fuck up the place because "HUR DUR IM COOL" I doubt it will ever be repaired, and will continue to sit in its final resting place until the county deems it condemned and they are allowed to tear it down, or the fire department will set the fucker on fire for training reasons.
4 posts and 2 images submitted.
>>
>>941722
Oh god i could jizz in every part of this house
Hnngg
>>
File: trombley-hse-move-1981-1021.jpg (21KB, 549x358px) Image search: [Google]
trombley-hse-move-1981-1021.jpg
21KB, 549x358px
Noice. Reminds me of this guy I saw on YouTube a while back who would drive around the country finding log built homes. He'd buy some, or even be given them, take them down, then reassemble them back on his own property. Saving old homes with a lot of historical value is really badass. You should see if you can do something about it.

Pic: Moving a historical house down the river. House was built in the 1830s and is one of the earliest frame buildings in my county.
>>
>>941819
Thats cool. But I dont have land.. Otherwise I would give this a go.

File: qnevaWH.jpg (64KB, 720x540px) Image search: [Google]
qnevaWH.jpg
64KB, 720x540px
I have been working on my own SFF case design for nearly a year, and this is the first prototype. It fits a 240mm AIO cooler, full-size GPU, SFX PSU, ITX motherboard, and 2 hard drives all in about 10L of space.
31 posts and 4 images submitted.
>>
File: qBsJvbK.jpg (40KB, 720x540px) Image search: [Google]
qBsJvbK.jpg
40KB, 720x540px
>>
File: yg6ct7R.jpg (44KB, 540x720px) Image search: [Google]
yg6ct7R.jpg
44KB, 540x720px
>>
Looks really cute. How're the temps on it?

Pages: [First page] [Previous page] [627] [628] [629] [630] [631] [632] [633] [634] [635] [636] [637] [638] [639] [640] [641] [642] [643] [644] [645] [646] [647] [Next page] [Last page]

[Boards: 3 / a / aco / adv / an / asp / b / bant / biz / c / can / cgl / ck / cm / co / cock / d / diy / e / fa / fap / fit / fitlit / g / gd / gif / h / hc / his / hm / hr / i / ic / int / jp / k / lgbt / lit / m / mlp / mlpol / mo / mtv / mu / n / news / o / out / outsoc / p / po / pol / qa / qst / r / r9k / s / s4s / sci / soc / sp / spa / t / tg / toy / trash / trv / tv / u / v / vg / vint / vip / vp / vr / w / wg / wsg / wsr / x / y] [Search | Top | Home]

I'm aware that Imgur.com will stop allowing adult images since 15th of May. I'm taking actions to backup as much data as possible.
Read more on this topic here - https://archived.moe/talk/thread/1694/


If you need a post removed click on it's [Report] button and follow the instruction.
DMCA Content Takedown via dmca.com
All images are hosted on imgur.com.
If you like this website please support us by donating with Bitcoins at 16mKtbZiwW52BLkibtCr8jUg2KVUMTxVQ5
All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties.
Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.
This is a 4chan archive - all of the content originated from that site.
This means that RandomArchive shows their content, archived.
If you need information for a Poster - contact them.