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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 591. page

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I'm not sure if this is the right place to talk about drapes. I'm looking to get some blackout drapes because my circadian center is a fucking wuss and won't let me sleep through even the tiniest light exposure. These blackout curtains would preferably be under 50 CAD, and available here in Canada.

I'm coming here for advice because I can't find any fucking reviews for blackout curtains. All the results on Google, Duckduckgo, Bing, it's all fucking commercial results. Does no one buy blackout curtains and then think to write a review so that other insomniacs can avoid wasting their dollers? I haven't slept in almost 48 hours and these goddamn curtains fucking sfufjsifidfsrewtrewopijpijrw
14 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>961839
This is DIY motherfucker. We MAKE our own blackout curtains here.

http://www.twotwentyone.net/make-blackout-curtains/
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>>961839
plastidip the windows
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>>961839
Have you even aluminium foil noob, this is diy, not buy-me-shit

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Came back from a three day trip and saw this little fucker in the kitchen. What do?
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>961832
Clean the shit out of your kitchen. Get every last exposed crumb. If there was no food for them to eat you would have no cockroaches.
>>
poison; paste and fogger
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>>961832
Did you break off his ass? What's the chunk behind him?

I use a 3 prong approach.

1. Slow acting baits. Bugs eat it then go back to their nest, take a shit, then die. At the nest, mom roaches eat the dead ones and feed shit to the babbys. The corpses and shit are all toxic and everyone gets a taste. The tapes are convenient, but even better is the big syringes that let you squirt it under chime ledges or other places where a trap doesn't fit.

2. Egg stoppers. It's a hormone liquid. When they inhale it, their growth stops. Breeding halts, eggs don't hatch, and grown adults become deformed.

3. It rarely comes to this, but they make some nice products (I like deltamethrin) you can put in a pump sprayer or squirt bottle. You spray it around the perimeter of your rooms or even outside. Use the first two items first before this one. You usually won't need it.

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Does it matter how electricity goes though a lightbulb?

I understand the basic fundamentals of electrical systems, but I have an antique chandelier with wires hanging out without sockets. I have no clue what wire is positive or negative, but I was wondering is it really matters how the power flows through the bulbs.

If it passes though the filament then won't it work either way?

Pic related, it's the piece.
10 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Shit, sorry the pictures sideways
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>>961750
Anon, you're probably plugging in AC current. It has no + or - since it varies all the time.

As long as you're not putting too much voltage on them, it's probably fine, especially since it's filament bulbs.
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>>961750
You have 2 legs. Doesn't matter which is which, as long as you don't cross your legs, because then you'll trip. Get it? Like tripping the breaker? Legs? Actual legs? Tripping? Get it?

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Hey /diy/

I'm living on the move a little bit and I'm thinking about making a little tea chest to store all my teabags ( I like to have variety. )

I've got a prelim design im going to work on, and I had a quick search for some food safe and good sealants, ( interested in beeswax and olive oil. )

I'm just wondering if there's one that I could try and use to keep it relatively "smell tight" ( I'm guessing air tight )
atm I just store all my teabags in a little tupperware container and the smell is getting into each one, which isn't a big deal but I would like to take a fat wiff of the teabags. ( same for my eccentrically victimised guests. )

so is there some sort of recommendations that I can use to make a "sealed" wooden box? I was thinking originally just to use plywood, but if there's some other wood that I should use, or plywood outer and soft inner? I don't mind too much if the wood absorbs the smell. each has their home.

or would making a soft wood "lip" and sealing it with wax&oil would be enough?

cheers
8 posts and 3 images submitted.
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Olive oil will go rancid eventually. There are plenty of oils that won't though. I personally wouldn't use a non drying oil to seal a surface that will hold something that needs to remain dry.
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Don't use olive oil it will spoil, in fact you shouldn't finish the internal surfaces at all, just the external with whatever finish it will be fine, I own 2 tea caddies one is shellac finished one is varnished.

The one I have just uses a lip to seal the box and it keeps well.

Dont use ply inner, find something dry and neutral ash, hickory, beech and do a thin 5mm lining of the internals.
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>>961676
>>961678
even with th beeswax? it's a mix but there's more oil than wax, so good point, duely noted, should I coat it with wax anyway? I don't want to use varnish or too "chemically" unless I have to, not a nutter just personally like "renewables"

>>961678
could I just make the dividing walls entirely out of those woods you've mentioned? I don't have too many tools to do something fancy like lining, so ash internals with a ply cover would be good?

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Okay /diy/ I hope you can give some advice. Someone messed up and I need to get it fixed, correctly. (This is my aunt's house, I'm the nephew trying to help.)

Initial set up: Most are familiar with evolution of a porch: someone wants a patio, so a thin cement slap is poured, later someone wants a covered porch, so walls are built, a roof, and sunroom exist. Original patio is shallow (3 or 4 inch) and at a slight slant, as it was an outdoor patio.

Initial problem: Skunks dug under the shallow foundation of that sunroom. As time goes by, the dirt under the cement settles and the foundation and said room sink. (Okay, that happens, should be relatively simple fix.)

Fixed it (sorta): Hire a professional foundation repair company, they come in, do their thing. They raised the foundation an inch, maybe more, said "It's the best we can do without causing more damage". Raising it anymore would worsen a crack in foundation or do damage to the house.

Okay, perhaps not ideal, but they did what they were supposed to. The room should no longer being sinking and the back door closed properly. (At one point it shifted so much the door no longer latched.) I accepted what they did and wanted to move on, replace the flooring and return the furniture.
My aunt, though, not happy. She didn't like how much they charged for what little they did. Her boyfriend was furious. He was determined to do it "right" himself and his buddies. Keep in mind, the boyfriend is a part-time contractor and a bad one. His buddies are even worse, unreliable, and probably high on something or dunk when they did show up.
6 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Fixing it, they're way: So the boyfriend digs under the room, gets out a bumper jack, and jacks the room himself, lifting it another 2 or 3 inches. Mean while the crack in the foundation is worse, then a crack forms on the wall. They pour cement under the east and west wall. The south wall gets no treatment, so it is actually hanging with a 2 inch gap underneath it. They pulled the threshhold from under the door, so there's a 5 inch gap under the door. This was back in October/November, just before it starts getting cold, and we have a literal hole in the wall, 2 inches high and 18 feet long! (I stuffed some fiberglass insulation and expanding foam in the hole to minimize the heat loss.)

So, this was done like four months ago, the boyfriend said he'd fix it, but has made no attempt to. My aunt finally comes to me and asks me to find a good company to fix it. But before I find someone willing to do it, I need to find what "it" is that should be done.

Boyfriends plan: Pour more concrete on patio to level of floor, then put tile directly down on concrete.

My plan: Fix the hanging wall so that's done properly. Leave the slanted foundation as is. Build a level subfloor with 2x10's, plywood, and lay down engineered flooring to match the rest of the house.

I'm not contractor, so I want to make sure this is done right. I don't think adding more concrete is the best option and tile would just look cheap. Do I need to have an inspector come look at the house and get a professional (hopefully objective) opinion?

(I could probably do the floor joists, subfloor, and flooring myself. It's all the other stuff, like securing a load baring wall, that I need help with.)
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(bump)
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>>961497
You know that if the boyfriend has enough pull to already have done work on it, and he's still around, your work will be pretty much futile, right? At best he'll downtalk it ad nauseum and make it a total pain in the ass for you, then he just might rip it out and do it his way anyway.

Anywho, your plan seems okay, as long as the sinking has actually stopped. Not sure which load bearing wall you're having issues securing, and what crack in what foundation? If the house foundation is the issue, stay the hell out of the picture! If you mean the original concrete patio is cracked it could be negligible once you cover it with the framing, or it could bite you in the ass later. No way to tell without pics.

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Doe anyone have an idea on how to moke an shield boss like this. I have the shield, but no boss.
9 posts and 4 images submitted.
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what are your resources?

ideally, you need a mushroom-shaped stake, a torch for heating, and to "raise" the dome- but there's no point even explaining how, if you dont have the equipment. its cheaper just to buy a shield boss from any reenactment website.
you can depress down, to dish with just a sandbag, but it thins the metal, so you need to work with 14 or even 12ga sheet for that. whereas with raising you can do it in 16ga.
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In the matter of power tools i have some drills, a bench grinder and a jigsaw. To hand tolls i have a variety of them, except a propper anvil, I just use a iron block.
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>>961410
look for a thick wall tube with the inside diameter of the dome diameter.
Fasten the sheetmetal with screws/clamps, whatever.
Start hammering your way dowm.
If you have explosives you could replace the hammer with water over the sheet and the explosion will push the metal to the right shape.

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The only way to find out you're not good at something is to try it, right?

Door made of recycled wood. The only pallet wood is the upper inset part.

Made for an odd sized pantry. It used to be a standard 24" opening, but previous owner nailed new trim over old. Results are a 21" opening, and a 20.75" door.
10 posts and 5 images submitted.
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>>961396
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>>961396
I suck at measuring, plus this was all cut with a jigsaw.
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>>961396
>>961397
>>961399
Looks find to me

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how do i start welding? i have access to a big welding machine, a welding mask and some scrap metal. what would you guys advise if i wanted to make something like pic related? it seems like a pretty simple design to me, using an old gas cylinder with a square hole in the front and a metal pipe as exhaust, what would be a good first step learning to weld?
8 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Take a welding class at your local CC. It's hard to beat direct access to experienced welders for learning the tricks.
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>>961295
This is probably your best bet, you could either spend your time looking up tutorials and practising a lot on scrap or you could just spend a little money on going and doing a short course. It's not a hard skill yo learn so it shouldn't be a long course.

On a side note, if you do plan to learn by yourself, your first step would be to learn what kind of 'welding machine' you have (MIG, TIG etc)
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>>961290
Professional welder here. I work in the automotive industry and mostly do small parts and aluminum. I learned in highschool then a two year cc program. Honestly the best way to learn if you have the time, and aren't considering it as a profession is lots of YouTube videos and scrap metal. Stay away from tig welding it's way to complicated to start with. A good MIG welder is best thing to use for this project. Just remember, 90% of welding is fitment and metal preparation, and 10% knowledge and experiance.

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hey guys, new homeowner looking for drainage help. i have an area along the side of my home where water is puddling. i know it needs to be regraded. can i do this tonight or will i have to wait for dry conditions. i dont want to do a half ass patch job but we have a break in the rain coming soon and i want to solve this tonight
7 posts and 3 images submitted.
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>>961270
What is the surface? Grass, concrete/asphalt, crushed rock?
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>>961280
the surface is dirt. its in my garden bed on the side of the house. i will take a photo and post it in a moment
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>>961280
this is my problem area

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How do I make this better for putting onto a face?
7 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Contours, bigger space for nose and a higher bridge for the nose, other than that if you're trying to stay basic, it should do.
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Is that for putting your phone right up against your face?
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>>961262
Alright

>>961266
It is.

So I want to build a go kart, and I'm using a 30,0000 rpm brushless inrunner. I think I want to go with a timing belt drive system. The motor can output 1.5 kW, and I need a belt that can withstand both the high rpm and power. What sort of belts and pulleys should I use? The motor has a 8mm d bore shaft and I need a 1:5 ratio. I also will mount a #25 chain sprocket to the output pulley, I don't know how I could do that either. If someone could help point me in the right direction that would be lovely, I'm just struggling to know what to Google and how to understand belt specifications.
6 posts and 1 images submitted.
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What you are looking for is called a "toothed belt"
Check for electric scooter parts and you should find just what you need.
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For high output, is there any option of using a chain drive?
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>>961249
Not really, given the RPM.

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Hey /diy/, I want to write a simple code for arduino which will detect local peaks and troughs. I am working on simple blood pressure circuit to enhance my electronics skills.

What I have right now is a pulse similar to the one in pic, with around 120mV and 80mV for the systolic and diastolic peaks. I would like to sample a pulse or two using the analog input pins, and return the peak values so I can print them onto an LCD.

I have tried simply googling it to no avail, and while I am interested in programming, my knowledge is somewhat limited. If anyone could recommend even a procedure I might use to solve this, let me know.
12 posts and 1 images submitted.
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in the simplest terms - you observe the sample and compare it to the previous one, you will also need a variable signalling the current state.

so, you asume that the value is going up, and keep substracting last value from the current one until the result is negative (which means current sample was lower than the last one).

this is the simplest method and will likely not work very well - it would be worth doing some sort of low-pass filtering on the signal because it is very lkely that noise wil locally make the signal go the other way, if you filter most of it will go away.
even something like moving window averagig is very efficient in filtering
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>code for arduino
this is what's wrong with the arduino ecosystem in a nutshell. once you've got the data, the algorithms will be the same regardless of the platform. do consider that when looking for tips.
that said, i vouch for this >>961210
rolling average, then check for step difference
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>>961210
Ok, thank you! I will try the simpler method first, and do some reading on how I might impliment an averaging filter.

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Hey /diy/ what do you think about diy invisalign?

http://amosdudley.com/weblog/Ortho
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>961140
I feel like we already had this thread. and the guy posted his whole log here already. for like months.
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>>961141
Fucking aye. I don't come here regularly so I've not seen them I'll try find the threads.
Could you tell me how it went for him?
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I currently wear it. Have been for 8 months.
Overall the experience has been good. Every two weeks you put a new set in. When I first got them, I had a bunch of aligners glued to my teeth. Which are like little nubs that click into the retainer. You have to wear them for 20hrs a day. Ah basically I brush my teeth after every meal and put em back in. Definably changed my eating habits. Overall earth are sore. Depending on the week, certain teeth are more sore than others

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Hello /diy/. First time poster here, did try to search a bit around google and in here, didn't find much so I'll try my luck. Apologize if this is posted often.

My leather chair (nothing fancy or expensive leather really) is starting to crack after 3 years of use. How can I prevent this or fix this? Some kind of lotion I presume? Someone suggested olive oil but I'm not too sure about this. Anyone here know any products that work well?

Pic is of my chair and the wear. Thanks in advance.
7 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Lose weight fat ass
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>>961139

I'm 58 kilos amigo, I don't want to go Auschwitz mode
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Coat it in vaseline

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I had to replace the handheld shower head in our spare bathroom similar to pic this morning because the old hose was cracked.

After installing the new shower head, I only have a bare trickle of water coming out of it.

If I take the hose off, there's plenty of water. If I take the head off the hose there's plenty of water. If I put the old shower head on the new hose there's plenty of water.

Is there anything I can do, or is the new shower head just broken?
9 posts and 3 images submitted.
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maybe it has a shut-off option so you can lather your luscious thighs. try turning it. also, post pic of thighs.
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You should be getting the same volume of water unless you have a magical hose. Is it just slower?
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>>961117
I've tried all the different settings and none of them have decent water flow.

>>961120
It's definitely not the same volume of water.

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