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Archived threads in /diy/ - Do It yourself - 502. page

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This is op ^)o.o)> I remember i used to play with pen caps when i was a student, this is one of my work. What do you think v(o.o(< 4chan?
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nice watermark
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>>1009978
Step 1: remove the Kirby emotocons so I can actually read your comment without feeling like a soulless Japanese teenager.
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Not manly enough
Make a デカちんこ and you've got our attention

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Can one do at least basic microelectronics and IC soldering in the context of a uni robotics and electronics club?
Or does this kind of stuff require expensive installations and equipment?
Any interesting resources on the topic?
5 posts and 2 images submitted.
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What do you mean by "basic microelectronics"?

You can solder ICs anywhere with a hot air station or a over. Not difficult at all.
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>>1009817
You can solder smt ICs with a regular soldering iron. Need hot air to remove them w/o cutting the pins off. Need a fancy ass setup to deal with bga shits reliably.
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>>1009815
>Can one do at least basic microelectronics and IC soldering in the context of a uni robotics and electronics club?
It is easily possible to use MOST surface-mount IC's yourself. {---I dunno a whole lot here, but will say what I do think I know....---}

Pic related: there is little circuit boards made that have solder pads for various kinds of surface-mount chips on them, with traces that lead out to thru-hole pads that you can solder wires into.
You can solder SMD chips onto these with a decent soldering iron, solder and flux. And some practice too, of course... Search "SMD soldering" on youtube for videos showing various techniques.

There is also a method called "dead bug style" where you get some thin bus wire, and solder your own wires onto each of the SMD's contacts so you can use it on a normal prototyping board.

There is also a style of IC packaging/mounting called "PLCC", where the chip isn't soldered at all. You solder a base down, and the chip just snaps into the base.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastic_leaded_chip_carrier
This sounds great, but it has two problems:
1--it's a rather expensive mounting method. And due to that,,,,
2--not a lot of chips are available in this type of package, and those that are tend to be rather expensive. The main reason this type of mount is used is if the chip is fragile and could be easily damaged by the heat of soldering.

Be warned that longer distances between chips means that each connection has more capacitance and may have more inductance as well. These can *easily* interfere with high-speed signal transmission.
As a general rule, it is best to try to keep the physical connection lengths as short as practically possible.
It is entirely possible for a chip to suffer from its own EMF interference, and PCB layouts sometimes have to be revised multiple times to reduce this problem to acceptable levels.

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Had a crazy idea last night and wanted to see if it was even feasible. Could one time a strobe light to active shutter goggles so that the strobes effects are unnoticeable?

Thinking home defense. Hit a panic button that shuts off the lights in the house, activates strobes in every room, and wear goggles that allow you to see everything while the burglar is disoriented.
25 posts and 2 images submitted.
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>>1009484
Sounds like a solid idea. No idea on how to implement it, but I'm sure someanon with more gorm than I possess will be along eventually. Bumping for interest.
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>>1009484
I don't think so maybe if you block the strobe then you would be left with black strobing with light levels so low it might as well be black you could try through video with infrared might be something there
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Idea: put strobes directly on the goggles instead. It'd be simpler.

AAUGH I WANT HIS BOOTS

HOW DO I MAKE THEM
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1009402
Look simple enough. Heel piece/main body, toe piece+tongue, sole... Stitch together and turn inside out bam done boots.
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>>1009402
"spandau".
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google 'medieval leather boots' and follow one of the dozens of patterns

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Hey guys, I recently moved into a house built in the 20s, and it has nozels for gas in most of the rooms. Currently attached are some very unsightly heaters. How do I remove them properly, and avoid exploding my house? Pic is of the one in the fireplace.
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1009381
Turn valve to closed position. Disconnect gas line. Check for leaks. No leaks? Done.
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>>1009385
Which way is closed position? Sorry, I've never even had a gas stove before, so I don't know what I'm doing at all.
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>>1009387
The valve is open when the knob is parallel to the flow direction through the valve and closed when the knob is perpendicular to the flow direction. This is true for most valves with non-round knobs.

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I've got useless machine as a birthday present. I think, that everyone should have an opportunity to touch this ultimate uselessness, so I've put it online here:

http://uselessbox.me/
5 posts and 2 images submitted.
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Used arduino mega 2560 as the 'hand' controller. Video stream set up according to this tutorial
http://phoboslab.org/log/2013/09/html5-live-video-streaming-via-websockets
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>>1009173
omg
I got 3333
name was FART
he wrote it on paper and held it in front of the camera
now he's putting things on the box!1!!
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MyNameIsJeff Here.

Autoclicker deployed.

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I finished building the Pop'n Music controller and use Arduino Leonardo. My question is how do I make the button light up?

The button comes with [email protected] watts and I'm not sure how to build a circuit for it.
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Post datasheet for buttons.
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>>1008351
Gas and a match.
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>>1008351
>how do I make it light up
Use lights. This is why you should learn stuff yourself and not just use kids and blindly follow the instructions.

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Hello /diy/, I recently gained a curiosity in making a custom scooter similar to image. I was hoping to make it following the steps from here..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YDLquBVdtW4

but the instruction manual link in his description has died. which led me to wondering if any of you guys have had any experience in metal work or have made anything similar to this. following the suggestions on the sticky, here are my resources
>horizontal band saw
>welding tools
I have all the metal to make it so I have no budget. Thank you in advance!
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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forgot to mention

time: end of summer
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shameful self-bump
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all you need to know is that a scooter is a bicycle's head tube and fork with a place for you to stand

If you research the principles behind bicycle steering and a diagram of a threadless headset you will have the knowledge to make your scooter

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Bought pic related from lowes.

online showed it came with the (what i think is) newer red rapid charger.

Box had (what i think is) the older black charger which has a "RAPID CHARGE!!!" sticker on it.

Wanted the red one because it is more slim and can be put on a 2x4 stud rather in an annoying spot somewhere else.

Not sure how mad i should be or how much of a bitch fit i should throw about it. Anyone here that has worked both and can comment?

I doubt ill end up caring much in the long run... but damnit i want was was advertised!
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Well your first mistake was buying cordless from Porter Cable.
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>>1008164

Oh? Why is that?

From the reviews i have seen they seem to be a solid tool for the money.

Not contractor grade for sure but also not contractor grade price. Better then harbor freight but also more money.

All i need is decent tools that will hold up to a few remodels and me using them in a hobby level wood shop.

To get the comparable set from dewalt im looking at another $150 to $200.
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If you're that butthurt about it just return them for a refund

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I've always just trimmed my beard with a (shitty) hair trimmer, but would like some recommendations on upgrading. I now shave to a mustache and soul patch and want something(s) better suited.
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Flaming lawnmower.
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I use the cheapest beard trimmer from Walmart for monthly trims but have it trimmed by my barber for special occasions.

If you want a Really good trimmer you're going to be paying alot starting with a fine toothed set of metal guards for a beard trimmer. You'll need to oil it after every use and send it to a sharpener ever few years.

My walmart one is some Remington with 8 interchangeable heads. I only use the beard trimmer heads (height adjustable head and some clip on heads all wide toothed plastic.). It's wireless, doesn't lose its charge for months, I never oil it and clean it 1 time a year. I've bought 2 so far, only bought the second one because I thought I lost the first in a move. The first one is 2 years old. I don't know which one is on my counter right now. For my mustache I use scissors I got from somewhere when I'm growing it to a styled length. Otherwise I trim it to the same length as my beard.

If your looking to keep the facial hair looking the best at all times then a once every 2 week trip to the local barber is your best bet (you're probably going to get your hair trimmed anyway if you do care all that much.) The low quality trimmers will miss hairs unless you're thorough and the the high quality metal guards miss less but are very costly.
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>>1007932
Well, for your actual face, you can't go wrong with a classic safety razor. The blades are super cheap, and it provides a much closer shave than the multi-bladed disposable ones. It's certainly easier to cut yourself when you haven't gotten used to it yet though.
I suggest buying shaving soap instead of cream. You can use a shaving brush to lather up the soap apply it to your face with a relatively thin coat (after soaking your face for a few mins with a hot, damp towel).
Shave with the grain first. Reapply the soap. Shave against the grain. Be sure to give the soap at least 30 seconds to start working on the hairs themselves. You are structurally weakening them with the hot water and the soap, so they cut easier.
Lastly, don't forget to use a balm or recovery lotion instead of aftershave. Aftershave is designed to kill bacteria that might get in your skin, that's why it's got high alcohol content usually. Careful shaving and keeping your face clean eliminates the need for that.
I grow and shave my beard about 5 times a year. Once you spend a month shaving every 3 or 4 days (depending on your growth) you'll have it all down pat.

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A modified solar charging, water and dust proof E-reader with expandable storage, how would you do it? The solar case doesn't need to be waterproof since it's removable.You can choose the device size.
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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>>1007644
you're describing the EARL, basically...

There was a service a few years ago that would water-proof any electronic device you sent them for a obscene amount of money(they also sold pre-waterproofed apple shuffles). I guess send them a Sony PRS-800, or whatever and get it done(The ones before they switched to plastic construction, and ran off android. That way its a lot simpler, but also a lot more secure)
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>>1007644
The solar charger thing seems a little unimportant given that it's an e-reader, battery life on my Kindle (one of the older ones, not back lit or touch screen) is months...

As for the waterproof/dust proof, you could just make a thin case for an existing eReader, they don't produce much heat so no need for venting and if you're going down the "non-touch screen" route you wouldn't need to worry about that, all you'd need is a few rubberised surfaces for the buttons it has.

Expandable storage, once again, why exactly? I can have hundreds of books on my old kindle...you need more than that? For what reason?

The key thing about making a good eReader is having it small and lightweight (as well as the easy to read screen of course) so that when you're reading for hours at a time your arms don't get sore from having to hold it up in front of your face, all you're doing is adding more and more bulk for not much added benefit.
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>>1009468
Battery life on ereaders is crazy long, but the issue with long term use on them is the li-ion cells simply dont hold their charge.

You can easily get 5000 page turns, but thats a moot point since most people arnt reading that much in ~2 months(which is about as long as the cell will hold its charge, provided its a new battery.)

A tiny solar cell(think calculator) just to trickle charge it would prob. be enough to keep the thing from full discharging for a year, but wouldnt be enough to replace the principle charge as it gets used.

So My family owns a machine shop for rebuilding engines and it has a welding station for welding heads and various equipment needing repairs. I by no means have experience in welding but would like to start anyone have some good practice/practical builds they know of to start out.(Note the picture is not the welding unit just a general one.) Also the machine is a argon gas and electricity (3 phase) welder.
4 posts and 1 images submitted.
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http://www.instructables.com/id/Learning-to-Weld/
Comes close, argon gas are you using a stick or smaw.
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http://weldinghelmetpros.com/cool-welding-projects-you-can-do-at-home

Some TIPS
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>>1007575
Visit the Miller website and forums, and Weldingweb forums. Shitload of info and MANY useful projects.

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I found this guitar in the trash, looks like someone tried to repair it and tossed it.

it looks like it was sanded but there are uneven spots of the fiberglass.

how could I go about refurbishing the thing?
5 posts and 1 images submitted.
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Good god that's a mess.

It would depend on the extent of the damage and how much is inside the body, and whether or not the resin (if that is indeed resin) has wrecked the sound.
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>>1007533
Paint it black. Car paint should be good, but even generic spray paint should do the job. Let it cure for a few days, then get an aerosol can of minwax lacquer(just saying this cause it's easy to find, if you can find something nicer go for it).

Just remember, lacquer is full of solvents and can cause neurological damage through inhalation, spray outside or in a room with an open door or window, but every couple minutes step outside. But, also consider that while the lacquer is wet anything that touches it will stick(dirt, leaves, bird shit, live bugs). But lacquer dries pretty fast.

Also, lacquer doesn't play well with some paints, enamel and acrylics for one. If you wait for them to cure and do very light coats you should be good. But that's why I suggested car paint, cars have clear coats put over their paint. Paint designed for muscle cars will be at to take lacquer, because lacquer was used on a lot of those muscle cars when they were on the line.

If you have access to a spray gun use that, if not use spray cans, if you don't want to do that you could probably wipe both on with a lint free rag. Don't brush, even if you're great at it you'll see brush marks.

If you can, put 10 to 14 coats of lacquer on. This will allow you to buff out the finish to a high gloss after its cured for a month.
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>>1007541
Most importantly, make sure it works first. Get a set of strings, slap them on, check action, intonation, and buzz.

And to be completely honest that looks like a cheap guitar. Just because all the binding is painted on. But, if it sounds good, if it plays good, go for it. I'd hate to see you drop $50 in something you're never going to use, unless you plan on doing this again, better to practice refinishing on a crap guitar than a more valuable instrument.

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Hey, quick question, my router is in the next room. It's really close by. Can I just drill a hole in the wall and connect it from there, versus having it going underneath the house?
58 posts and 9 images submitted.
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>>1005133
To run my Ethernet cable
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>>1005133
Check with your landlord to see if it's allowed. Physically speaking, it should work fine.

If you own the house, you could fucking burn it down and no one would give a shit
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>>1005133
No. It's well known that dry wall and wood causes electrofermagnetic interferettence in cables run through them. The effect is not great on telephone wires which run at low frequencies, but your video games will lag because of the high frequency signal getting slowed down.

Why the fuck did you think you had to make a new thread to ask this question?

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Hey guys,
So I live in a rental in Australia.

The house is an old style Queenslander with an concrete under house section.
Whichever genius built this place decided that to get extra head room under the house they would just excavate down a foot or so and concrete line the whole thing.
It rains heavily regularly here and the under house is constantly being flooded with water.
Pictured is an area of water upswell which literally fountains up from beneath the house slab when it rains.
Clearly there the water is running through the ground being pressurised up through the slab.

The real fix would be to raise the house and pour a new slab above ground level but it's a rental so I'm not going to do that.

Is there something I can use to seal the areas of upswell in the slab? Like an expanding foam or concrete sealant. This would be temporarily but would solve my problem as a renter.

>tldr: water comes up from beneath my house. Is there something I can seal the concrete with?
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>>1010875
You could try to seal it up but its doubtful it would help. In how many areas are you having water ingress? If its just a few it might be better to get a pump or two and just pump as needed to get the worst of it out.
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I would imagine that sealing out groundwater is a losing battle. It'll just pop up someplace else. Sump pump I guess.
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Op here :

I guess the solution would be for the next 6 months, so it really only needs to be a temp kinda thing.
There are at least 2 major ingress spots and possibly smaller in the multiple cracks.

Definitely a losing battle.

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