Anonymous
How do I make a mold of this 2016-06-19 00:41:40 Post No.1010761
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How do I make a mold of this 2016-06-19 00:41:40 Post No.1010761
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How do I make a mold of this
Anonymous
2016-06-19 00:41:40
Post No. 1010761
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Not the finished product but I eventually want to make a mold of this so I can make more faster. It's clay btw. Can anyone help?
12 Posts / 2 Images
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Silicon- look at some smooth-on stuff
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>>1010762
Silicone huh how does the process work?
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>>1010763
Mix the two components, pour over thing to be copied, vacuum, let cure.
When cured, it will be pretty elastic, and should be kinda easy to remove. Once it's removed, pour in epoxy resin and vacuum out the air bubbles. Let cure, and remove your copy.
That record player anon again.
Just restored another one
18 Posts / 8 Images
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B4 pic
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This motorola sounds excellent, even came with a 15" subwoofer in 1960!
It sold for $500 new, which is the equivalent t to $3600 today
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>>1010750
Looks more /fa/
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How should I go about making this telephone a computer microphone?
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Uses a traditional telephone cord
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>>1010733
G'day cunt, search for a fucking usb microphone, use your imagination and technical skills to take apart the fucking mic and maybe add a longer usb lead to connect to your porn box, maybe add a switch to the phone to switch the fucking on or off or mute, fucking work it out yourself cunt, post pics here when you're done mate, good luck.
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http://www.theprojectasylum.com/electronicsprojects/phonetosoundcard/phonetosoundcard.html
Anonymous
Voltage inverting circuit with Multiplexer 2016-06-18 15:29:13 Post No.1010537
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Voltage inverting circuit with Multiplexer 2016-06-18 15:29:13 Post No.1010537
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Voltage inverting circuit with Multiplexer
Anonymous
2016-06-18 15:29:13
Post No. 1010537
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I'm really stuck on this circuit I'm trying to build to heat and cool a block. The thermal blocks heats and cool based on whether I apply a +12/-12V at each of its inputs and I have to swap them manually to invert the heating/cooling function.
I was thinking of using an Arduino that sends a Digital signal to a multiplexer to convert the voltage whenever I reach a certain temperature.
So when I am at 60c, I want to heat, and at 95C I want to cool and cycle back and forth. I want to swap the voltages but I'm not sure if I can do this with a multiplexer. Can someone help me out since I'm not great at this?
Thanks!
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You'd end up with a much simpler design by simply using a pair of relays.
Since the thermal blocks likely use a decent amount of power you're running them with a decent set of Transistors or Relays in the first place.
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>>1010541
And I noticed you already got the exact same answer on /g/.
Good on them.
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>>1010537
>I'm really stuck on this circuit I'm trying to build to heat and cool a block. The thermal blocks heats and cool based on whether I apply a +12/-12V at each of its inputs and I have to swap them manually to invert the heating/cooling function.
I was going to say to use an H-bridge, but somebody in /g/ knew enough to say that already....
An H-bridge is a type of circuit that does exactly what you want here: it swaps polarity between two wires.
You can buy H-bridge ICs that are big enough to run small motors, but Peltier coolers tend to draw rather a lot of current. You may have to build the circuit out of separate parts.
And there is at least a thousand pages online showing that, I'm not explaining it here.
>I was thinking of using an Arduino that sends a Digital signal to a multiplexer to convert the voltage whenever I reach a certain temperature.
That is not what a multiplexer is for.
If you were thinking that you would use some method to apply variable-DC to the Peltier cooler, then what you would want is a ADC (analog-to-digital converter) operating a MOSFET. But you don't need that.
You don't need to supply variable-voltage to this thing, you just run it for ~30 seconds and then check the temp.
>So when I am at 60c, I want to heat, and at 95C I want to cool and cycle back and forth. ...
You do want some 'distance' between the heat and cool thresholds, or else it will constantly ping-pong back and forth between heating and cooling.
Also Peltiers heat better than they cool, so the heating cycles should be shorter than the cooling cycles, probably.... like mebbe 30 seconds for heat, and 45 seconds for cooling.
What are you trying to heat and cool exactly, anyway? Are you using a Peltier?
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Hey /diy/. I want to make a racing wheel but I don't know how to make it actually function. Can I use an old mouse or a gamepad, or do I absolutely need a potentiometer? Is it cheaper just to buy one?
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>>1010064
>Hey /diy/. I want to make a racing wheel but I don't know how to make it actually function.
Alarm number 1
>Can I use an old mouse or a gamepad, or do I absolutely need a potentiometer?
potentiometer? You have no idea what you are talking about
Alarm 2
>Is it cheaper just to buy one?
Due to alarm 1 and 2, yes
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>>1010065
Please explain cause I'm a virgin to this shit and I want to get into it.
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Get a goodwill wheel and mod it. Rice it to the max.
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Pneumatics people, would a setup like pic related work for closed-loop controlling the volume of a balloon without attaching a positional transducer to the balloon itself? From looking on the internet, I've found that the volume-pressure relationship of a balloon is many-to-one with an initial peak as it inflates, so you can't reliably estimate volume from pressure especially when starting from atmospheric.
The balloon is just a regular latex party balloon and the pumps are http://www.robotshop.com/ca/en/sfe-air-pump.html . I don't need to spit out the exact volume. Just be able to inflate then deflate to manually-adjusted setpoints, then have the control system repeat that motion on any identical balloon.
Ideally it should be able to fully inflate and deflate a balloon quite rapidly, in 1/2 a second or less. The sense chamber would large enough that it would be negligibly stressed in doing so. I also realize that compressing the balloon will cause volume to decrease without registering in the sense chamber, but this is an acceptable compromise.
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>>1010060
what is even the point of this?
is this an experiment?
homework?
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>>1010269
soft robutt experiment
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>>1010349
Now that you're being more clear, rather than a pure soft robot, which sounds like a pain in the ass, I would make a hybrid soft/hard robot with joints and rotary encoders.
It'd be a lot easier than building a circuit that PIDs based on volume vs ambient pressure.
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Hi Diy
2 year ago was try to clean up this mouse and made a really big mistake in left panel cable connector, and cant fix it.
1 because the connector non-separable
And 2 the cable damaged, because i forcedly try to put it back.
I feel i can fix it, but i think i need tip or better a tutorial video for how to fix.
Help me.
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>>1010051
Damaged Cable.
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>>1010052
I Forgot to say, i have 30 watt NI Soldering Iron
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>>1010052
That's fucked. Best you could do is trim it and expose the copper carefully, then glue the blue plastic tab into place.Then insert into connector and pray.
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So I bought this motorcycle and the PO had at some point broke off the left mirror and """repaired""" it with JB weld. It snapped off when I went to adjust it. The mirror assembly is threaded on one end M10-1.25 to be precise, I have a nut that will fit. It would normally thread into a (plastic) boltplate to the lights control switch assembly but it's fucked. The handlebar has some space, it's about 3/4" around or whatever that is in metric sizes.
So my ideas so far, get a pipe clamp or conduit strap on the handlebars, but I feel like this would vibrate around the axis of the handlebars unless it was perfect. Its a metric bike so no construction hardware would fit perfectly and I'd have to drill them out to fit the 10mm thread.
I could also attempt the same route as the last guy, bore out the old hole in the light switch assembly and JB weld a nut in there but that failed last time and I want a faster solution than waiting for JB weld to cure forever.
Friend suggested having shop weld a nut to the bars but I feel like no reputable shop would do that or they'd charge like 60$.
I''m looking for a quick and easy and inexpensive solution, it''s a beater bike so it doesn't need to be pretty, just needs to work. State law says I have to have two mirrors and I don't like doing 180 head checks everytime I merge left.
Any ideas? I asked /o/ but they're all hayabusa bros that don't jury rig nothing. Pic related as you can see how the mirror is screwed into the switch assembly and how they can break off, if you're not familiar with them.
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Longer term - grab a set of bar end mirrors off fleabay for $10..... Wait a week from chong kong.
Alternately, drill the switch block, get a spiral thread repair, jamb that in. Done.
Dont weld the fucking handlebars anon. Dont weld the fucking handlebars. Many shouldnt be drilled either, as some such as alu bars have structural integrity issues that result in fun things like the bars folding when a larger force is applied. Like when your trying like fuck to stop in time when some dead shit in a hyundai pulls out 20m infront, and your doing a buck 20. Then your right side bar folds forward as its alu and some fag po drilled it for a switch block.
> consider that greentext btw.
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>>1009984
Bar-end mirrors are as bad as no mirrors, you have to take your eyes off the road and down on the pavement 3 feet away to use them. Also newer versions of my bike have their mirrors mounted on separate clamp/ bracket things and they cost like 7$ but I don't want to wait and there isn't much space on the bars with the old-style switch block to mount one.
Drilling out the switch block to run the threaded end, then secured with a nut sounds like it might work though. I wonder if the plastic would hold up though. Actually sounds like my best bet.
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>>1009989
Nevermind, drilling the switch block just broke a hole in the assembly, it was fucked up under all that JB weld. Gonna try a conduit strap.
Anonymous
Rubberized Plastic Degrading, Got Any Tips? 2016-06-17 04:20:45 Post No.1009894
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Rubberized Plastic Degrading, Got Any Tips? 2016-06-17 04:20:45 Post No.1009894
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Rubberized Plastic Degrading, Got Any Tips?
Anonymous
2016-06-17 04:20:45
Post No. 1009894
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I have a two year old laptop that was made cheaply in Taiwan, and the rubberized plastic that coats most of the laptop's surfaces is starting to degrade and get really sticky. I've had this situation before with mice and a few other electronics, but this is the first time it's happened so quickly. My Logitech mice had no problems for at least 4 years, and I've still got a Zune HD with a similar rubberized plastic bottom that hasn't degraded at all, but has rubbed away.
Are there any ways to restore this coating to its prior state, or at least keep it from being sticky? I was thinking of trying to rub it in mineral oil since internet scuttlebutt says that peanut butter or Wolfgang's External Trim Sealant helps a bit.
Otherwise, I think I'll need to remove it with isopropyl alcohol, right?
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>>1009894
My wacom pen's rubberyness started degrading a while back so I just took it off. Yeah, isopropyl.
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^^ that.
Then if you want rubber again, grab a tin of plasticoat (spray removable rubber) mask where you dont want it and spray. It will also fix that sticky shit coming back.
Did this last week to a green rubbery dell that came along. Paid $30 sold $190 thanks to that spray
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Ok guys, I'm thinking of buying a Kubota G1800. It needs a little work, but I can get it cheap. It runs and mows, but it has been rigged in a few places, ignition, throttle cable. Anyone have any experience with one of these?
>pic related
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>Kubota
Run
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>>1009602
Why?
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>>1009605
The only orange tractor you should be buying is an Alice. Get a Deere if you want it to last the summer
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Dear /diy/nosaurs,
I am planning to convert an old fridge into a fermentation chamber so that I can brew beer at home. Most people in the homebrewing community seem to use something called STC-1000, an inexpensive temperature control unit, which is basically just a temperature sensor hooked up with an MCU and two relays, that switch the fridge and an (optional) heat source
I have some experience with low-voltage circuits, but I have never really built anything that runs on the mains and I am not sure how reliable these cheap Chinese electronics are. Most people seem to do fine with just wiring up the control unit with the fridge, but they are mostly homebrewers with little to no knowledge of electronics. So I was thinking about some extra precautionary measures:
1. install a simple fuse so a current surge does not destroy the thermo control unit
2. use extra, higher-rated relays to switch the fridge on/off so that the relays in the STC-1000 only have to switch a few milliamps.
The built-in relays are rated for 10A, so I think they should be enough to switch a smallish refrigerator, even after accounting for the current surge upon powering up the compressor, but I really want to be on the safe side here.
What would you say, /diy?
tl;dr: I want to use an inexpensive temperature control unit to control a fridge and I don't want to burn my house down.
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>>1009570
Those controllers are designed to handle compressors and heaters. There is even a "compressor delay" on them so you dont burn out your compressor.
The built in relays are beefy enough for fridges dont replace or supplement them. You can add fuses if you want, but I never saw a need.
I used mine to make a sous vide setup with a crock pot. It handled the load of the crockpot on "high" just fine.
For your heat source, a ceramic lamp base mounted inside a quart sized paint can will work. Put 60W incandescent in there and plug it into into your "HEAT" side of the PIC.
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> OP wears a belt and suspenders...
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>>1009570
There may be a better way of doing this. Depending on how household refrigerators work, cutting power to them may be noisy and hard on the system. I suspect that there is a fairly simple method of interfacing with the temperature controller inside the fridge to give it a false reading, enabling you to turn the compressor on and off.
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I have 2 pc's (soon a third high-end pc) and 4 phones and generate around 300-550H/s on DSH and around 200-300H/s on ETH. How bad is that and how can I be more effective?
Also Electricity is included in the rent
What setup does /diy use?
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>>1009513
>setup does /diy use?
they dont - stop trying to spam this shit here, no one cares. Theres an entire containment bord for crytoscam crap elsehwere, now fuck off.
>>>/biz/
>>>/trash/
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>>1009522
Lol there's been like 1 thread in the last month.
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>>1009526
fuck off - I see the odd thread (based) mods catch and obliterate, christ knows how many actually get started. Just had a look at >>>/biz/ see if they were still accepting this crap - entire firstpage, there is fucking nothing else.
shits cancer yo, and you know it - get a proper job and get this to fuck.
Anonymous
Completed Project - Thunder Nagant 2016-06-15 22:29:19 Post No.1009286
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Completed Project - Thunder Nagant 2016-06-15 22:29:19 Post No.1009286
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Completed Project - Thunder Nagant
Anonymous
2016-06-15 22:29:19
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I started a thread on this board a few months ago and you guys helped me out a lot, like more than I expected, with surprisingly little shitposting and guys being a dick about fucking with a 'historical rifle', so I thought I might as well post the finished project, I think it turned out real nice, sorry it took so long to finish and to post the results, i got stuck deciding the color of the wood stain and ended up cleaning the wood for a month until it got a nice clean blonde and I just said fuck it and lacquered over it.
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>>1009286
Reverse side
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>>1009286
Wood burner? it looks very nice anon
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>>1009286
One more angle, and Im done, I swear, and disregard time stamps i never set the date in that camera.
>>1009288
It was burned using a microwave transformer and the high voltage from it, I can post screens from my original thread and it has most of the process and progress.
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dear /diy/
I'd like to cast a cone from raw concrete.
I'd like to use a similar technique to what was used in brutalist architecture.
I get the concept applied to non organic shapes , but how can this be aplied to a cone.
corbusier did stuff like this.
In my mind it looks like a stupidly intracte process , that can't be it , right ?
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>>1008460
Really just a matter of making the form in that shape, and prop it up while the concrete sets
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>>1008469
I just don't get how much work I should put in the form.
I mean , they used wooden planks for the pice in the picture as far is i know.
but how were the planks shaped ?
were they shaped at all , can I leave gaps between the boards because of the vicosity of the concret ?
I tried to make two examples of what I mean by shaped boards in the pic
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>>1008507
also,
how should I secure the form ?
will wire be sufficent ?
I'm really at a loss here.
I mostly wanna do this because I can't really wrap my head around this.
I'm at my wits end. I've been struggling for over 2 weeks trying to make an accurate timer/oscillator using basic electronics and IC's but I'm out of luck and ideas.
I've tried 555 timers, inaccurate as shit.
I've tried 4060 timers, better, but still not good enough.
I've added one of the f*ckers in the pic to the 4060, but STILL the frequencies jump all over the place.
I've tested and exchanged all my parts, no luck there.
My goal is to turn this thing into an 8 hour timer so I can water my plants while I'm out. I've got the pumps, relays, everything. It's just this timer that's failing me hard. I'm at the verge of buying an arduino (which is too OP and too expensive for this purpose) but it'd waste all my time and money (on electronics) thus far.
Please 4chan, you're my only hope.
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>I've tried 555 timers, inaccurate as shit.
>I've tried 4060 timers, better, but still not good enough.
The main limiting factor with those are the passive components and 4060 is also influenced by supply voltage variations.
>I've added one of the f*ckers in the pic to the 4060, but STILL the frequencies jump all over the place.
You either did it wrong or you have rather ridiculous requirements for the accuracy of your plant watering timer. If it's the latter, then the uncalibrated accuracy of Arduino isn't probably going to satisfy you.
You can add a trimmer capacitor to adjust the crystal frequency. You should also use as correct as possible load capacitance; wrong load capacitance is the typical reason why RTCs with external crystals suck. That way you'll get normal run of the mill quartz clock accuracy. If it's not enough, there are temperature compensated canned crystal oscillators.
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>>1006226
I don't really care for the actual frequency all that much. I can get the 8 hours from almost any frequency smaller than a second basically. I wrote a tool that automatically calculates the pin connections based on the measured frequency.
Stability is the big factor though. From all the tutorials/blogs/websites, it seemed like the crystal oscillator thing would have a highly accurate 2 Hz output on the 4060, but I've been extremely let down.
About the voltage variation, my hookup is as follows:
1 oscillator, the 4060 + crystal
Is connected through the highest pin (2 Hz) to a binary up down counter.
There are 4 of those up-down counters in series.
Those 16 output bits can be combined in a combination of and-gates to accurately set the 8 hour interval.
The and gates trigger an edge detector that immediately resets the counters so the next 8 hours start. The timer is not reset.
The edge detector will (eventually) also trigger the watering mechanism through transistors activating relays activating the pumps.
Mind, I've learnt all of this from scratch in about 3 weeks, so I'm bound to overlook a few things.
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>>1006230
Oh and all of it is running on 5 V drawn from a 5 V regulator that's powered by a 12 V adjustable adapter. (I need the 12 V for the relays).