It's an old "Pinnacle system PCI Tv Tuner"
allows a desktop pc to receive signals from a TV.
You should get a huge TV screen, and then connect it to a wireless PC with a cable box as well as internet and video games and then you could have a media center.
http://lifehacker.com/five-best-tv-tuner-cards-1600439009
the one you have is a little old school... you should stick to using a USB. Sometimes they come with a remote.
Maybe you could take it apart or something?
Basically you could use it to record TV if you want to.
>>1009021
Isn't there a way to pirate tv with this?
>>1009029
Kek
Nope. You have to plug this TV card in to the TV coaxial cable that comes out of the ground. If your provider uses TV-over-IP(ethernet->settop box -> TV) or a normal decoder box between the coax and your normal TV, you're fucked.
And no, your PC can not decode it if it's scrambled.
All this card allows you to do is record programs like a DVR.
Hey, /diy/. Long time poster, first time OP'ing.
I am trying to convert a box van into a mobile home and I'm stupid when it comes to electricity.
I want to run a small monitor and a laptop, along with a charging dock for all of my devices, pretty regularly.
I would need to run some LED lights a few hours a day.
I imagine I would need to plan to run a high velocity fan or a small heater for long periods of time, depending on the weather (the truck is pretty well insulated)
I also want to be able to run a high-efficiency cooler/fridge constantly, and occasionally a crock pot or water heater.
That's all the small stuff. I also need to run an airbrush, some light power tools, a 3D printer, a small format die-cutting machine, etc.
I want the system to charge while the motor runs, but not drain the main battery, and still have the option to plug into a 120v outlet to charge without running the motor. In a perfect world, this system would have a small digital battery meter so I can monitor the battery levels.
I would need to be able to live off of the batteries for at least a week without really rationing power or needing to recharge.
How many batteries, and of what size, would /diy/ suggest I buy? How best to wire them so I can charge off of the alternator without drainging the starter battery? Would it still be possible to charge them externally?
Lmao
4 12v batteries daisy chained and 3000w inverter. Bonus solar panels on roof. Or u could get apu. Shits expensive though
>>1008259
You might as well just live in your local KOA
Welding thread
>>1007452
Inherited a mig welder thats sat for ages.
Its called "mighty mig" but it doesnt actually say sealy. It looks like pic related. also it runs off of 110v (maybe 120, 120 works)
Assuming its not a terrible idea to use it, I would like to repair it and use it.
The wire inside is rusted, it powers on and I hear the fans running. When I pull the trigger I hear a click like a relay. There was some wire sticking out the tip, like more than there should be so just for the hell of it I put the grounding clamp on some pipe and touched the wire to it and it melted so the transformer still works.
I have the side panel somewhere but Ill have to dig for it.
There is tubing for the gas on the welder still, but the tank has been discarded for whatever stupid reason.
So am I insane for thinking this is usable still?
How should I go about doing this? What should I inspect to make sure things are safe.
Also general welding advice?
>>1007454
update:
Its made by Huth, a German company.
The tip isnt cracked and looks to be in good condition. Inside looks good, just dusty as hell.
There are huge capacitors labeled 12,000 uf made in germany.
Don't see too much corrosion anywhere.
One of the transformers was labeled 110v. The spot weld timer was turned on, that is why it wouldn't feed, turned it off and its feeding now.
I removed the rusted wire, and will be getting new wire and a welding mask tomorrow.
>>1007824
If you aren't going to be using gas get self shielded flux core wire.
hey /diy/ !
I just got a 1/2hp 120v motor (circa 1980/90ish?) that came with a recipricating scroll saw of the same time period (it's the good shit).
Unfortunately I'm having issues finding out how to wire the thing, or what cap to use, etc.
Most things I've been finding are for 5 wire motors, but mine has only 3 fast on connections.
The specs as written on the motor casing:
FSP PART NO. 88004
D397 MFG MODEL NO. C2490
1/2HP 115 VAC 60 CYL / 8.5 AMPS
1725/1140 RPM TYPE S P CLASS B CONT.
E-10250 RPGAY THERMALLY PROTECTED BK
This is the interior of my old electric water heater/boiler.
Is it over?
>>1013008
Looks like mineral deposits, fill it back up with water, dump some vinegar or citric acid in there, repeat several times and watch it peel off and dissolve literally
>>1013018
But this shit should look something like this when in a better state
>>1013056
that ain't rust, if it is rust it would be more uniform, it should be deposits
I am trying to fix the power suppy of this TV I found in the trash.
I replaced the fuse and the buldging big cap. It was only after I blew that fuse I realized that a) two transistors are shorted. b) there is this burnt ceramic cap, LABELED AS A RESISTANCE on the board. WTF!?
I'm pretty sure that is not a ceramic cap but a self resetting fuse.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resettable_fuse
>>1012962
>self resetting fuse.
Considering there's an old-fashioned fuse already, a VDR would be more likely.
The other side of the board. The leads between -[v]- on the left over the SMD 1004 resistors belong to the burnt component (blue disc).
Hey /diy/, I'm in the early stages of making butted mail. Making the mail itself is fairly easy, but I don't have any idea how to shape it to what I want. I want to make a mail shirt, so how would I go about getting the sheets of mail into a shirt shape?
use the templates you already have at home:
-old clothes
-your body
>>1012900
Traditional chainmail can hung in two ways, open and closed.
In your photo, if the piece is draped on the shirt in that orientation its 'open', if it is rotated 90 degrees then it would be 'closed'.
Open mail will hang looser on the body, while mail hung in its closed axis will hug the body.
I prefer my mail shirts in the closed form.
You want to work in a series of expansions and contractions in the shirt. These are easier to do in the closed form than open, but either way its possible.
Depending on how form fitting you want it, your body shape, and ring sizes you'll want multiple 'darts' of expansions.
At about your lowet pec youll want two darts that expand up. Youll want a dart starting below your chest contracting down to the waist. And three small darts that expand around the hips.
On the back youll want two broad darts that expand up your shoulder blades, a small long skinny contraction along the spine down to the waist, and two darts expanding for the hips.
Under the arms you want two triangle sheets to connect the front and back panels to provide room for the shoulder and provide slack when you lift your arms.
You might want to experiment a bit also, since it is so labor intensive to construct a large item of chainmail, you may as well make it spectacular. Look into different weave patterns, you can use 4 in 1 for some and then upgrade to 6 or 8 in one for stiff ribbing sections... like a belt, or patterns built into the shirt. I like using a light Japanese style weave in connecting areas like armpits, as it can improve mobility a lot... then you would need to overhang those areas with like draped triangles of normal weave so it hangs and protects the area somewhat.
You would be well served to figure out how to make items such as 'cone shapes' and 'expanding tubes'. It is really just figuring out a regular pattern to 'adding and extra ring now and then which your next row will incorporate into the usual pattern... it causes the 'sheet' of mail to expand (or contract by removing a ring) slowly widening.
Good luck... time consuming hobby, but fun at times.
After using brand new shower for about couple weeks I noticed the showerhead had a tendency to have poor water pressure at the beginning of a shower session.
Couple more weeks, I noticed orange/yellow looking goo coming out of the rubber spray holes on the showerhead. The thing was hanging couple millimeters out, I picked it out with my finger to inspect closer, it appeared to be orange, almost like a jelly, but much much softer.
Barely 2 months in total the pressure dropped dramatically. Will be dismantling and cleaning it up today.
I've read about bio-slime building up in showerheads or calc/rust, but I have never seen these things to make a conclusion on what I'm dealing with
The shower system is technically new, along with water system and the building itself. Building is not even year old. I live in a apartment on 10th (top) floor. Water is pumped from lower levels, and no built-in boilers.
Anyone dealt with this nastie before? Concerned it might be a bacterial trouble, or is it just some residue from new system?
>>1012776
Elisa Lam 2.0 desu
>>1012778
Wow fucking Hiroshima Nagasaki at it again.... T. B. H. INSTEAD OF DESU WEEB FAGGOTS
>>1012776
Just hit it and get your exp already.
Here is a photo of my broken door latch. Some asshole decided to kick the door open during a party. Is this fixable without getting the whole door frame replaced? A before and after pic for reference.
that's a shitty picture.
also, just replace the jamb. don't need to replace the frame. get a lock and deadbolt and punch that fucker in the back of the head.
>>1012696
I deal with a lot of these. Usually I just replace the one side but it takes a few tools that not everyone has like a nailgun, router, and oscillating saw. If you're good you could use a hammer and chisel.
I usually charge about $175 to fix something like that and honestly I'm not charging enough.
If you are poor and only have a drill you can screw the broken piece back on. It won't look great but it will work.
>>1012753
My shit tier landlord would just bog a hole like this.
So, I'm interested in carpentry. As a disabled person who can live next to a normal life other than the exhaustion once in a blue moon. What looks good on the resume? I only framed one house as a college project and caught myself actually liking something in school. How does /diy/ get their foot in the door?
>>1012427
How disabled are you?
>>1012429
I just suffer from exhaustion once in a while. I have sarcoidosis and don't need any type of treatment other than steroid cream on funky red patches of skin.
>>1012427
search for helper/labor jobs. alot of heavy lifting in carprentry.
Other than that, i would buy some tools and make something simple like a box, put a unique spin on it.
Do you have a job rn?
Hey /diy/, I need ideas
I'm completely redoing my workshop. The working bench itself will be 30mm thick OSB board.
There are a couple of tools which I don't always need. Like the vice, bench grinder, miter box and probably something else I forgot. I don't really want to have them permanently attached to the workbench because they often get in the way.
Does /diy/ know of any sort of base plate design onto which those tools can be mounted, which in turn can be (easily) attached to the workbench? I thought about getting a few 1cm thick steel plates, eg 10x20cm for that. But what's a good design for mounting/unmounting them that's also sturdy enough for heavy vice work?
My current ideas are some sort of screw clamp design, or a series of holes near the side of the bench to use nuts+bolts (but I think in the long run those holes might not be a good idea in OSB).
Maybe use some of those guys in the proper size?
just search for threaded studs (google translate kek)
I just use two 12" x 14" x 3/4" sheets of plywood stacked on top of each other and glued. Then used lag bolts to attach the vise. I also glued on some nonslip shelf liner to the bottom. When I need to use it, I just slap it on the bench and fasten it down with a couple c clamps. It's study as fuck and no way anything I would do would cause the plywood to fail.
Btw this is also how I mount my bench grinder.
>>1011563
Use either T-nuts or threaded inserts.
Hey guys I want to build a teardrop trailer for 2 people , under 1k (broke college students). Any advice or tips?
>>1011355
Don't drive it anywhere where they salt the roads. Don't skimp on the trailer and then overload it. Make sure you know how to drive the thing in cross winds or you could die (seriously, they turn over really easy). Waterproofing it will be difficult. Test it with a pressure washer before you trust it. Don't just hit it with a hose. If you drive it in the rain you'll be going 65 MPH and water *will* get in it if you don't do it right.
>>1011355
my dad has built three (two from scratch, one rebuilt from the frame of an original). he's a big teardrop fan. don't think you'd be able to manage it for under 1k though
>>1011397
Gonna go ahead and second this. Even if you're picking up the frame for a bargain, getting it right is going to take a lot of time. Add to that the materials add up pretty quick, and it's going to take a lot of time to get right. That being said, hitting up habitat for humanity, salvation army, etc, can get you some premade elements for a decent price.
Seriously though, the frame alone will probably run you anywhere from $400. If you take your time with it, and open up your budget, you could cheat a little and just buy a premade trailer from Lowe's or Rural King; the latter sometimes has a good sale and will be selling smaller trailers for right at $400.
anyone got some cool infographs about things you can make?
>>1010745
Don't do this, it makes exploding chlorine gas!
>>1010745
make model helicopter
Which torch head should I get? TS4000 or TS8000?
They basically just say that the TS8000 is "better" on the Bernzomatic website without saying why. Is it hotter? I don't think the adjustable flame is useful. If I need less heat, I'll use my heat gun.
But the TS8000 only costs $7 more when bundled with a cylinder of "MAP" Pro gas.
Being that the inlet is at the bottom on that one I'd imagine it will make for better efficiency during burn off.
>>1008933
Get the one you have to light with a striker. The piezo trigger ones break easily.
>>1008933
What are you going to be doing with it?
Hey diy/. Need some help with a home project. I recently read a book called the battery builders, i got on amazon. Very interesting book, teaches how to rebuild lead acid batteries. It also somewhat shows how to build a Plante cell. The original battery. It got me interested because I have a small solar system and I want long term batteries. The Plante cell is the definition of deep cycle battery, not the plate style thin stuff you see in marine or even golf cart batteries. I want to make my own but I need more information. I've googled for hours but google as of late just seems to give me the same results over and over again. Really I need to find a source of good thick cases and separators. I am told the standard thickness is 1mm and the holes should be extremely fine. I will likely use a hobby drill if i have to make my own. Any ideas? I looked at lead prices online. Very expensive compared to the actual market value of lead. 2 dollars vs 79 cents. I might start with a test cell made of plastic perf board and a mason jar. Dig up some fishing weights and give it a go. I have a adjustable power supply that can do 10 amps so for small cells I can do for now and later make a series and use a larger 20 amp power supply.
Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?
I am trying to plan for the future. I dont see good times and I live off the solar system. I want a battery i can make myself. What good is a battery bank if it falls apart in 10 years and I have no money to replace it or they dont even sell them anymore?
>>1007118
First off you need to either do some research on how standard lead acid batteries work, or give up. You have a spongy mass of lead at the anode (SPONGY to increase surface area. Drilling holes into a plate of lead will be terrible). Then you have another spongy mass of lead dioxide on the cathode.
If you really want to do this right you need to have a good way to increase the surface area i.e. speed of the reaction. It will increase the amperage you can draw from the battery. I've heard of people making their own lead paste and pushing them into grids. Give this a read: http://www.zetatalk10.com/docs/Batteries/Lead_Acid/How_To_Make_Lead_Acid_Battery_Plates_2008.pdf
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7gp3XjsH64
this is the best video on YT on how to make lead-acid batteries, ignore the low quality
Also lead is much cheaper if you get it yourself by getting it out of stones
>>1007144
does this guy have autism?